September Story by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with bobbles. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: assembly free, bobble, jacket, long sleeves, round neck, round yoke, top down

DROPS 213-26
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-255
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-100-103-114-122-138 cm = 34 5/8”-39 3/8”-40 1/2”-45”-48”-54 1/4”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g color 22, yellow

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 6-6-7-7-8-8 items.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool

from 6.45 $ /50g

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	DROPS Air mix	6.45 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size.
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased).
On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. The new stitches are then worked in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off and the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures 1½-2 cm = 1/2”-3/4”. Then work the other 5-5-6-6-7-7 buttonholes with approx. 8½-8½-8-8-7-7½ cm = 3 1/4”-3 1/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-2 3/4”-2 7/8” between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 79-87-87-95-95-103 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side) with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Air.
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, purl 69-77-77-85-85-93 and work 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (= right side): Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a (= 1 stitch), * A.2a (= 3 stitches), A.3a (= 5 stitches) *, work from *-* until there are 9 stitches left (= 8-9-9-10-10-11 times in width), A.2a over 3 stitches, A.1a over 1 stitch and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
When the piece measures 3-3-3-3-4-4 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”, adjust so the next row is from the right side, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9.
Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke will be measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Work A.1b over A.1a, A.2b over A.2a and A.3b over A.3a. The bands are worked in garter stitch to finished length. When A.1b has been worked 1 time in height, repeat A.1c. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.2b and A.3b have been completed 1 time in height there are 235-261-281-309-329-359 stitches on the needle. Knit from the wrong side and purl from the right side, with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 20-22-23-25-26-28 cm = 8”-8 3/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 1/4”-11” from the marker.
The yoke is now divided for body and sleeves as follows:
Knit 37-42-44-48-51-57, place the next 48-52-58-64-68-70 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), knit 65-73-77-85-91-105 (= back piece), place the next 48-52-58-64-68-70 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve) and knit the remaining 37-42-44-48-51-57 stitches. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 151-169-177-193-205-231 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 40-45-47-51-54-60 stitches in from each side (= sides of body). There are 71-79-83-91-97-111 stitches between the threads on the back piece. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Work stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side of the piece.
When the piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4 cm = 1 1/2” a total of 6-4-5-5-5-5 times = 175-185-197-213-225-251 stitches.
When the piece measures 29-29-30-30-30-30 cm = 11 3/8”-11 3/8”-11 3/4”-11 3/4”-11 3/4”-11 3/4” from the division, change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 9 and work rib as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
When the rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” bind off with knit from the right side – read BINDING-OFF TIP.

SLEEVE:
Place the 48-52-58-64-68-70 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-58-64-70-74-76 stitches.
Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Start at the marker thread and knit in the round.
When the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6-3-2½-2-1½-1½ cm = 2 3/8”-1 1/8”-7/8”-3/4”-1/2”-1/2” a total of 5-7-9-11-12-12 times = 44-44-46-48-50-52 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 32-30-30-28-27-25 cm = 12 1/2”-11 3/4”-11 3/4”-11”-10 5/8”-9 3/4” from the division (there is approx. 7 cm = 2 3/4” left to finished length; you can try the jumper on and work to desired length).
Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7 and work rib (= knit 1, purl 1).
Bind off when the rib measures 7 cm = 2 3/4”.
The sleeve measures approx. 39-37-37-35-34-32 cm = 15 1/4”-14 1/2”-14 1/2”-13 3/4”-13 3/8”-12 1/2” from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= from wrong side: make 1 yarn over and slip the stitch onto the right needle as if to purl (= English rib stitch)
	= from right side: knit yarn over and slipped stitch together (= English rib stitch)
	= purl from right side; in this stitch you will later pick up stitches for a bobble
	= purl 1, then insert right needle into the purled stitch 6 rows further down, just before the English rib stitch (i.e. stitch marked with a cross) and work BOBBLE: Pick up the strand on the needle; make sure it is not tight (i.e. the stitch needs to be approx. 2.5 cm = 7/8" long), * make 1 yarn over, pick up 1 more stitch in the same way, work from -* a total of 3 times (= 4 new stitches and 3 yarn overs), slip the 7 stitches/yarn-overs onto the left needle and knit them together (= 1 stitch increased)
	= before working the stitch, insert the right needle into the purled stitch 6 rows further down, just after the English rib stitch (i.e. stitch marked with a cross) and work bobble, then purl 1
	= knit yarn-over and slipped stitch together (= English rib stitch); in this English rib stitch you will later pick up stitches for a bobble
	= before working the stitch, insert the right needle into the English rib stitch 6 rows further down (i.e. stitch marked with a star) and work as follows: Pick up the strand on the needle; make sure it is not tight (i.e. the stitch needs to be approx. 2.5 cm = 7/8" long), * make 1 yarn over, pick up 1 more stitch in the same way , work from -* a total of 3 times (= 4 new stitches and 3 yarn overs), slip the 7 stitches/yarn-overs onto the left needle and knit them together with the next stitch on the left needle (i.e. there is no increased stitch)
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; yarn over is worked twisted on next row to avoid a hole

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 213-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

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