DROPS / 212 / 14

Cloud Fluff by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with set-in sleeves without seams in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down in English rib. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Cloud Fluff / DROPS 212-14 - Knitted sweater with set-in sleeves without seams in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down in English rib. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Cloud Fluff / DROPS 212-14 - Knitted sweater with set-in sleeves without seams in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down in English rib. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Cloud Fluff / DROPS 212-14 - Knitted sweater with set-in sleeves without seams in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down in English rib. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Cloud Fluff / DROPS 212-14 - Knitted sweater with set-in sleeves without seams in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down in English rib. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Cloud Fluff / DROPS 212-14 - Knitted sweater with set-in sleeves without seams in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down in English rib. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-074
Yarn group A + B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-106-119-122-136-142 cm = 38 1/2”-41 3/4”-47”-48”-52 1/2”-55 3/4”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color 01, white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
12 stitches in width and 30 rows (15 rows counted in knitted stitches) in height with English rib and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM = US 10.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10; Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 8.30 CAD /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 8.30 CAD /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 8.30 CAD /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.75 CAD /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.75 CAD /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.75 CAD /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 56.20CAD. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 66 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 8) = 8.25.
In this example decrease by knitting approx. each 7th and 8th stitch together.

ENGLISH RIB WITH YARN OVERS – in the round:
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* to end of round.
ROUND 2: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl the yarn over and slipped stitch together *, work from *-* to end of round.
ROUND 3: * Knit the yarn over and slipped stitch together, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* to end of round.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 onwards.



INCREASE TIP-1:
All increases are worked on a round where yarn overs and stitches are purled together.
Work 3 stitches in the stitch and yarn-over with the markers as follows: Purl together the yarn over and stitch but do not slip the stitch and yarn-over off the left needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle and purl together the stitch and yarn-over 1 more time, slip the purled stitch and yarn over that was purled in off the left needle = 3 stitches (= 2 stitches increased = a total of 8 stitches increased).
On the next round work the 3 stitches as follows: Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit the yarn over, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl.
Then continue these stitches in English rib. NOTE! These markers should not be moved, increase continues in the same stitch. i.e. the number of stitches between 1st and 2nd increase on each shoulder remains the same.

INCREASE TIP-2:
All increases are worked on a round where yarn overs and stitches are purled together.
INCREASE 1 ON SLEEVE CAP IS WORKED AS FOLLOWS:
Work 3 stitches in the stitch and yarn-over and move the marker as follows: Purl together the yarn-over and stitch, insert 1 marker in this stitch (i.e. stitch on right needle), but do not slip the stitch and yarn over off the left needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle and purl together the stitch and yarn-over 1 more time, slip the purled stitch and yarn over that was purled in off the left needle = 3 stitches (= 2 stitches increased). The marker sits in the first increased stitch (= purled stitch). The next increase is worked in the stitch with the marker.
INCREASE 2 ON SLEEVE CAP WORKED AS FOLLOWS:
Work 3 stitches in the stitch and yarn over and move the marker as follows: Purl together the yarn over and stitch, but wait with slipping the stitch and yarn over off the left needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle, purl together the stitch and yarn-over 1 more time and insert the marker in this stitch, slip the purled stitch and yarn over that was purled in off the left needle = 3 stitches (= 2 stitches increased). The marker sits in the last increased stitch (= purled stitch). The next increase is worked in the stitch with the marker.
On the next round work the 3 stitches as follows: Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit the yarn over, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl.
Then continue these stitches in English rib.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The sweater is worked in one piece from the top down. You increase for the shoulders and sleeve caps. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/ short circular needle.

NECK:
Cast on 62-62-66-72-72-76 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 and 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk.
Knit 1 round. Knit 1 round and decrease 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 54-54-58-62-62-66 stitches.
On the next round insert 4 markers as follows (the markers are inserted in the stitches; round begins approx. mid-back): Knit 7-7-9-9-9-11, insert marker 1 in the next stitch and knit this stitch, knit 13, insert marker 2 in the next stitch and knit this stitch, knit 11-11-13-15-15-17, insert marker 3 in the next stitch and knit this stitch, knit 13, insert marker 4 in the next stitch and knit this stitch, knit the remaining 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches.
The stitches between markers 1 and 2 are the right shoulder, between markers 3 and 4 the left shoulder. You will increase in the stitches with markers later. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round; the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Work ENGLISH RIB WITH YARN OVERS in the round – read description above, over all stitches and increase for the shoulders as follows:

SHOULDER:
The first increase is worked on round 2 in the English rib (the stitches with markers are purled stitches). Increase 2 stitches in each of the stitches with markers – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 4th round a total of 6-7-8-8-9-9 times = 102-110-122-126-134-138 stitches. Increase in the same stitch, i.e. the number of stitches between markers 1 and 2, and between markers 3 and 4 remain the same; the increased stitches are worked before marker 1, between markers 2 and 3 and after marker 4. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
The piece measures approx. 9-10-11-11-12-12 cm = 3 1/2”-4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-4 3/4”-4 3/4” from the marker in the neck. Now increase for the sleeve caps as follows:

SLEEVE CAP:
Work 3 rounds after the final increase on the shoulder.
On the next round with purl (i.e. yarn over and stitch are purled together) increase for the sleeve cap and the markers are moved as follows:
HALF BACK PIECE: Work as before as far as the stitch with marker 1.
RIGHT SLEEVE CAP: Increase-1 on the right sleeve cap is worked in the next stitch (= stitch with marker 1 = purled stitch) – read INCREASE TIP-2, knit 1, increase-2 on the right sleeve cap is worked in the next stitch (= purled stitch) (= 4 stitches increased).
FRONT PIECE: Work as before until there are 2 stitches left before the stitch with marker 4, remove markers 2 and 3.
LEFT SLEEVE CAP: Increase-1 on the left sleeve cap is worked in the next stitch (= purled stitch), knit 1, increase-2 on the left sleeve cap is worked in the next stitch (= stitch with marker 4 = purled stitch) (= 4 stitches increased).
HALF BACK PIECE: Work as before to end of round.
You have now inserted 4 new markers in the piece.
Increase 2 stitches in each stitch with a marker and move the markers every 4th round a total of 8-9-10-10-12-13 times = 166-182-202-206-230-242 stitches.
The markers are moved to the outermost stitch on each side of each sleeve cap each time you increase, i.e. there are 4 more new stitches between the markers on the sleeve caps each time you increase.
The piece measures approx. 20-22-24-24-28-29 cm = 8”-8 3/42-9 1/2”-9 1/2”-11”-11 3/8”, measured from the marker mid-back.
Continue in the round with English rib until the piece measures 24-24-25-26-29-30 cm = 9 1/2-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-10 1/4”-11 3/8”-11 3/4”, measured from the marker mid-back.
Now increase 2 stitches in each stitch with a marker (= 8 stitches increased) = 174-190-210-214-238-250 stitches.
Work 1 round then divide for the body and sleeves as follows, working English rib as before:
Work 27-29-31-33-37-39 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 34-38-42-42-46-48 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches under the sleeve, work 53-57-63-65-73-77 stitches (= front piece), place the next 34-38-42-42-46-48 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches under the sleeve and work the remaining 26-28-32-32-36-38 stitches (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 118-126-138-146-162-170 stitches.
Continue in the round with English rib. On the first round work the 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches under each sleeve without working the stitches and yarn-overs together.
When the piece measures 25-27-28-29-28-29 cm = 9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11”-11 3/8”-11”-11 3/8” from where body and sleeves were divided, knit 3 rounds. Bind off with knit – read BINDING-OFF TIP.

SLEEVES:
Place the 34-38-42-42-46-48 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/ short circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 40-44-48-50-54-56 stitches. Continue in the round with English rib. On the first round work the 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches under the sleeve without working the stitches and yarn-overs together.
When the piece measures 30-31-31-30-28-27 cm = 11 3/8”-12 1/4”-12 1/4”-11 3/8”-11”-10 5/8” from where the sleeve was divided from the body, knit 3 rounds. Then bind off – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knitting direction
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Anette Schwarz 27.02.2021 - 19:19:

Liebes Drops-Team, ich stricke 3xl, beim halben Rückenteil stricke uch 11 Maschen, in der 12 nehme ich zu, wenn ich 9x zunehme, habe ich aber keine 37 Maschen, sondern nur 30. Ich schaue mir die Videos an und stricke es genauso. Wo liegt das Problem? Danke im Voraus

user icon DROPS Design 01.03.2021 kl. 09:02:

Liebe Frau Schwarz, in 3xl haben Sie 250 M nach allen Zunahmen; dazu sind es 42 Maschen für das 1. Halb-Rückenteil bis zu den 3 Maschen mit der Markierung in der Mitte (die ganz letzte Zunahme); nur die ersten 39 M (in 3xl) werden für das Rückenteil gestrickt, die nächsten 48 Maschen werden für die 1. Ärmel stillgelegt. In 2xl haben Sie 39 Maschen bis zu den 3 Maschen mit der Markierung in der Mitte, die ersten 37 stricken Sie für das Rückenteil und die nächsten 46 M für die Ärmel. Hoffentlich kann es Ihnen weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Anette Schwarz 16.02.2021 - 11:54:

Ich bin total verwirrt, ich habe, denke ich, richtig nach Anleitung gestrickt, nur habe ich am Vorderteil 81 Maschen und am Rückenteil nur 49 Maschen. Wo ist mein Fehler? Die Ärmel haben beide die gleiche Maschenzahl, auch zuviel. Ich habe zuviel Zunahmen gemacht, klar. Aber wieso haben Vorderteil und Rückenteil nicht die gleiche Maschenzahl? Danke im Voraus

user icon DROPS Design 16.02.2021 kl. 13:26:

Liebe Frau Schwarz, dieses Video zeigt, wie man für die Schultern bei diesem Modell zunimmt, sicher wird es Ihnen am besten helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Babeth 14.01.2021 - 11:07:

Bonjour Je désire tricoter ce modèle Cloud Fluff by DROPS Design, mais il est bien au-dessus de mon budget J'ai cherché des alternaitves et trouvé une laine de remplacement pour le fil kid silk mais pas pour le sky Pouvez vous m'aidez Je désire garder ce côté " lousse aérien " quand même Merci beaucoup Babeth

user icon DROPS Design 14.01.2021 kl. 15:44:

Bonjour Babeth, consultez notre convertisseur pour trouver les alternatives possibles (pour Sky ou Kid-Silk) - Rappelez-vous que des laines alternatives ont des qualités différentes et donneront donc un résultat différent; votre magasin DROPS saura vous conseiller la meilleure alternative possible en fonction de vos souhaits - vous pouvez le contacter même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

country flag Ekaterina 14.10.2020 - 09:44:

Good day! I must increase steaches In sleeve cap In every fourth row? Thank you

user icon DROPS Design 14.10.2020 kl. 10:11:

Dear Ekaterina, that's right - this video shows how to increase for sleeve caps. Happy knitting!

country flag Marie 17.05.2020 - 21:34:

Bonjour. Il existe une incohérence dans les explications écrites des côtes anglaises avec jeté entre la version ci-dessus et celle de la vidéo. Dans l'explicatif du patron, au tour 1, on fait "TOUR 1: *1 maille endroit, faire 1 jeté, glisser 1 maille à l'envers*". Alors que la version de la vidéo dit ceci : TOUR 1 : * 1 jeté, glisser 1 m à l'env, 1 m end* Qu'elle est la bonne version? Merci d'avance.

user icon DROPS Design 18.05.2020 kl. 08:51:

Bonjour Marie, suivez toujours les indications figurant dans le modèle - la vidéo montre la technique, en fonction des modèles on peut commencer les côtes anglaises différemment, le résultat ne changera toutefois pas dans le rendu final. Bon tricot!

country flag Joop 14.05.2020 - 16:51:

Korrektion i min kommentar, 7+13+11+13+6=50 maskor, 4 blir över

country flag Joop 14.05.2020 - 16:43:

Hej. Siffrorna går inte ihop i början av arbetet. Jag stickar den minsta storleken; har minskat till 54 maskor. Har satt ut markörerna enligt instruktioner; (7-13-11-13-6 ) men efter den fjärde markören återstår det mer än 6 maskor. Det ser ut som att markörerna är beräknade efter ett totalt masktal av 48, istället för 54.

user icon DROPS Design 18.05.2020 kl. 11:22:

Hej Du ska sticka 7 maskor och sedan sätta markören i nästa maska (dvs maska nr 8), sedan stickar du 13 maskor och sätter markören i nästa maska osv.. Du har alltså inte räknat med de maskor du sätter markören i och därför får du inte antalet att stämma. Lycka till!

country flag Evgenia 23.02.2020 - 12:06:

Bonjour, Je vous propose une possibilité de traduire la description de vos modèles en langue russe. Bien à vous

country flag Dusica 11.02.2020 - 15:24:

Can you tell me which instructions to follow, in written pattern or video here,regarding increase 1 type as they differ? In pattern round 1 is knit 1,YO,slip 1 in video is YO,slip 1 knit 1.Round 2 in pattern is YO,slip 1,purl them together in video is purl together YO and slipped stitch ,YO,slip 1.Round 3 in pattern is knit YO and slipped stitch tog in video is YO,slip 1,knit them together.

user icon DROPS Design 11.02.2020 kl. 15:45:

Dear Dusica, The increase on shoulder is worked on round 2 in English rib - row 1 in English rib will be worked only one time, you then repeat row 2 and 3. You increase as explained under INCREASE TIP-1 working 3 stitches in the the Purl stitch + yarn over together -(= stitch in marker) as shown in the video. On next round, work the increased stitches in English rib (but without the yarn over). That's also what the video is showing. Happy knitting!

country flag Dusica 11.02.2020 - 14:42:

I just started this pattern in XL size and made round 1 in English rib pattern. Can you explain if I should continue English rib to stitch with marker,do incense 1 on that specific stitch and than continue rib?

user icon DROPS Design 11.02.2020 kl. 15:18:

Dear Dusica, yes correct you will start the increase now - increase as explained for your size, this video shows how to work the increases. Happy knitting!

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