DROPS / 205 / 41

Fun with Friends by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in 2 strands DROPS Air. Piece is knitted with cables, displacement and textured pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern ai-217
Yarn group C + C or E
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 112-120-132-140-144-156 cm = 44”-47 1/4”-52”-55”-56 1/2”-61 1/4”
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-400-450-500-550-600 g color no 17, denim blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 mm = US 13: Length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm = US 11: Length 40 cm = 16” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch after A.4 and 1 stitch before A.5.
Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On next row purl yarn overs to make holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch, but on the next row from right side knit 1 stitch through yarn over and the stitch above. I.e. work as follows: Work until stitch directly above yarn over made on previous row from right side, insert needle through hole (yarn over), pick up the thread as if to knit 1 through the hole, and slip the outermost stitch on left needle.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid hole. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP:
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease as follows after 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
Decrease as follows before 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Work until 3 stitches remain on needle (= 2 stitches pattern A.1 + 1 edge stitch in garter stitch): Knit 2 together, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

MEASURING TIP:
Because of the weight of the yarn the shoulder width will stretched when worn. Length measurements on sleeves on chart is shorter than the finished garment when worn. Measure parts when they lie flat.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle in parts and sewn together when finished.
Work sleeves back and forth on circular needle. READ MEASURING TIP!

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 62-66-72-78-80-86 stitches on circular needle size 9 mm = US 13 with 2 strands Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, A.1 over the first 18-20-22-24-24-26 stitches, knit 1, A.2 over the next 7 stitches, knit 8-8-10-12-14-16, A.3 over the next 7 stitches, A.1 over the next 18-20-22-24-24-26 stitches, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until A.2 and A.3 have been worked vertically. Now work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), continue with A.1 as before until A.2, work A.4 (= 7 stitches) over A.2, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), 8-8-10-12-14-16 stitches in stockinette stitch, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), work A.5 (= 7 stitches) over A.3, work A.1 as before until 3 stitches remain on needle, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. 1 stitch has been increased after A.4 and 1 stitch before A.5 (= 2 stitches increased) and decrease 1 stitch of pattern in each side (= 2 stitches decreased) - read INCREASE TIP-1 AND DECREASE TIP. NOTE! Number of stitches on needle is the same, but there are fewer stitch in pattern A.1 and more stitches in stockinette stitch towards mid front on sweater. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Continue back and forth like this and continue decrease and increase every other row (= every row from right side) until increases and decreases have been done 24-24-25-26-26-27 times in total. Piece measures approx. 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm = 15”-15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/8”-16 1/2”-17” along edge stitch in the side of piece (piece will curve upwards in the middle of front piece because of displacement in pattern). If the piece is shorter than this, continue with pattern without increasing and decreasing until piece have the correct measurements. At the beginning of the next 2 rows bind off 3-3-4-5-6-7 stitches for armholes = 56-60-64-68-68-72 stitches. Now work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 52-54-55-57-58-60 cm = 20 1/2”-21 1/4”-21 5/8”-22 1/2”-22 3/4”-23 5/8” slip the middle 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches on needle on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off on every row from neck as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 20-22-24-25-25-27 stitches. When piece measures 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm = 22 1/2”-23 1/4”-24”-24 3/4”-25 1/2”-26 3/8”, work 1 ridge over all stitches, at the same time on first row decrease 2-2-2-3-3-3 stitches evenly = 18-20-22-22-22-24 stitches. Bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way. Piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4" from shoulder and down (on the longest, i.e. along side of piece).

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 59-63-69-73-75-81 stitches on circular needle size 9 mm = US 13 with 2 strands Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work an edge as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until 2 stitches remain on needle, work first stitch in A.1, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Now knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 1 stitch in all sizes = 58-62-68-72-74-80 stitches. Continue back and forth with stockinette and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm = 15”-15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/8”-16 1/2”-17”, bind off 3-3-4-5-6-7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for armholes = 52-56-60-62-62-66 stitches. Continue in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm = 21 5/8”-22 1/2”-23 1/4”-24”-24 3/4”-25 1/2”, bind off the middle 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off 1 stitch on next row from neck = 18-20-22-22-22-24 stitches for shoulder. When piece measures 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm = 22 1/2”-23 1/4”-24”-24 3/4”-25 1/2”-26 3/8” work 1 ridge over all stitches. Bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way. Piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4" from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 22-22-24-24-26-26 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 with 2 strands Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib (knit 1/purl 1) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm = US 13. Work in stockinette stitch back and forth. When piece measures 8-9-7-8-8-5 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/2”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-2” increase 1 stitch on each side – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 3½-3-3-2½-2½-2 cm = 1 1/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-7/8”-7/8”-3/4” 10-11-11-12-12-13 times in total = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 44-43-41-40-41-39 cm = 17 1/4”-17”-16 1/8”-15 3/4”-16 1/8”-15 1/4”. Insert a marker in each side of piece (used for assembly later). When sleeve measures 46-45-44-44-45-44 cm = 18”-17 3/4”-17 1/4”-17 1/4”-17 3/4”-17 1/4”, bind off all stitches. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams with grafting/kitchener stitches inside bind-off edge. Sew sleeves into body, marker on sleeve shows side seam on front and back piece and the rows knitted after marker are sewn to the 3-3-4-5-6-7 stitches bind off for armhole in the side of body. Sew seam under sleeves and then down the side seam.

NECK EDGE:
Begin mid on top of one shoulder with 2 strands Air and a short circular needle size 8 mm = US 11. Pick up 40-46 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holder). Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) in the round for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Cut and fasten the yarn.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 205-41) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (6)

Michèle 01.01.2020 - 14:42:

Bonjour Comme Marie je ne trouve pas les explications des augmentations très claires il y a peut etre un problème de traduction car dans les explications du devant une fois les augmentations terminées on dit de continuer en point fantaisie mais sur la photo on voit que le devant est terminé en jersey endroit ceci dit le modèle est très joli et je l'ai réalisé en tenant davantage compte de la photo que des explications (il y a aussi une erreur dans la grille X au lieu de -)

Marie 29.12.2019 - 06:36:

Je n'arrive pas à faire les augmentation-1. Je fais une jetée sur l'endroit, tricote cette jetée à l'envers sur l'envers mais quand je suis rendue au rang endroit suivant je ne comprends pas comment je fais pour piquer dans la jetée et tricoter en même temps la maille endroit sur l'aiguille gauche

DROPS Design 09.01.2020 kl. 13:58:

Bonjour Marie, cette vidéo montre (time code 02:22) comment tricoter cette maille en piquant sous le jeté, et en même temps, comment augmenter et diminuer. Bon tricot!

Roseline Ornon 14.11.2019 - 14:21:

Comme Nathalie précédemment, j’ai très envie de réaliser ce modèle. Quand aurons nous accès aux explications ? Merci !

Nathalie 07.10.2019 - 09:01:

Quand sera til possible d'avoir les explications?

Patrizia 03.10.2019 - 16:45:

Bellissimo modello! spero di trovare presto la traduzione delle spiegazioni in italiano!

Ellis 09.06.2019 - 21:45:

Again quick nit for schoolgirls

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