DROPS / 200 / 8

Victoria's Twirl by DROPS Design

Knitted long, shaped jacket in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no cm-102
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-114-124-136 cm = 34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41”-45”-48 3/4”-53 1/2”
Full length: 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm = 28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30”-30 3/4”-31 1/2”-32 1/4”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
700-800-850-950-1050-1150 g color 03, beige

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch and lace pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: length 80 cm = 32” for edges.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 7-8-8-8-9-9 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (25)

50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.30 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 60.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Right front piece: See diagrams A.1, A.2, A.3 and A.12.
Left front piece: See diagrams A.4, A.5, A.6 and A.13.
Back piece: See diagrams A.7 to A.13.
Sleeve: See diagrams A.14. to A.16.
The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from right side. Choose correct diagram for your size.

DIAGRAM TIP:
This pattern contains a lot of diagrams. It is a good idea to draw a ring around the diagrams for your size to make it easier to see where you are. Another option is to cut out the diagrams for your size and separate them into groups; right/left front pieces, back piece etc. (see PATTERN).

KNITTING TIP:
All numbers for stitches on front and back pieces are based on there being 3 stitches on the small cables; but be aware that the number of stitches in the small cables can vary between 3 and 2 and this will affect the number of stitches on the row.
On the sleeves the number of stitches is based on there being 2 stitches in the cable, as A.15 starts with 2 stitches.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side, after the last stitch is cast on for neck. Then work the next 6-7-7-7-8-8 buttonholes with approx. 9-8-8½-8½-7½-8 cm = 3 1/2”-3 1/8”-3 1/4”-3 1/4”-3”-3 1/8” between each one.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE:
All increases are worked from the right side! Increase 1 stitch for the armhole on the inside of 3 edge stitches in garter stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) knit or purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
The new stitches are worked into the pattern as follows: The first 3-3-3-4-5-5 stitches are purled from the right side/knitted from the wrong side, the next 4-8-8-8-8-8 stitches are worked into A.12 (on right front piece and on right side of back piece), or into A.13 (on left front piece or left side of back piece), the next 0-0-0-4-6-12 stitches are purled from right side/knitted from wrong side, then finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side.

DECREASE FRONT PIECE (for decreasing in purled sections):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
When decreasing evenly in the purled sections, decrease in every other purled section, but it’s not decreased in all purl sections on the row.
Skip the purl section closest to band, decrease 1 stitch in the next purl section, skip the next purl section and then decrease 1 stitch in the next purled section.
The next time you decrease, skip the purl section closest to the band, skip the next purl section, decrease 1 stitch in the next purl section, skip the next purl section, decrease 1 stitch in the next purl section.
Decrease 1 stitch in a purled section by purling 2 stitches together. NOTE: It is neatest if you alternately decrease at the beginning and end of a purled section (not in the middle).

DECREASE BACK PIECE (for decreasing in purled sections):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
When decreasing evenly in the purled sections, decrease in every other purled section, but it’s not decreased in all purl sections on the row
Count from the middle stitch on the row to calculate where to start decreasing. Decrease 1 stitch in the purl section on both sides of the middle stitch, skip the next purl section each side of the middle stitch, and decrease in the next purl section on each side.
Next time you decrease, skip the first purl section on each side of the middle stitch, decrease 1 stitch in the next purl section on each side, skip the next purl section on each side and decrease 1 stitch in the next purl section on each side.
Decrease 1 stitch in a purled section by purling 2 stitches together. NOTE: It is neatest if you alternately decrease at the beginning and end of a purled section (not in the middle).

INCREASE FRONT PIECE (for increasing in purled sections):
All increases are worked from the right side!
When increasing evenly in the purled sections, increase in every other purled section, but it’s not increased inn all purl sections on the row
Skip the purl section closest to band, increase 1 stitch in the next purl section, skip the next purl section and then increase 1 stitch in the next purled section.
The next time you increase, skip the purl section closest to the band, skip the next purl section, increase 1 stitch in the next purl section, skip the next purl section, increase 1 stitch in the next purl section.
Increase 1 stitch in a purled section (seen from the right side) by making 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then purl the new stitches from the right side/knit from the wrong side. NOTE: It is neatest if you alternately increase at the beginning and end of a purled section (not in the middle).

INCREASE BACK PIECE (for increasing in purled sections):
All increases are worked from the right side!
When increasing evenly in the purled sections, increase in every other purled section across the middle 14 purl sections on the row.
Count the middle 14 purl sections and place a marker in each side to indicate where the increases start and end. The first time you increase 7 stitches evenly spaced, increase 1 stitch in the first purl section, skip the next purl section, increase 1 stitch in the next purl section etc until a total of 7 stitches are increased. The next time you increase, skip the first purl section, increase 1 stitch in the next purl section, skip the next purl section, increase in the next purl section etc, until a total of 7 stitches are increased.
Increase 1 stitch in a purled section (seen from the right side) by making 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then purl the new stitches from the right side/knit from the wrong side. NOTE: It is neatest if you alternately increase at the beginning and end of a purled section (not in the middle).

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.15 as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before A.15, purl 2 together, work A.15 (= 2/3 stitches), purl 2 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle in sections, top down.
Start with right front piece; i.e. work right shoulder, cast on new stitches for neck and increase to armhole. Then decrease and increase in purled sections to shape.
Left front piece is worked in the same way, but reversed. Back piece is also worked in the same way; i.e. work right shoulder, left shoulder, cast on new stitches for neck, increase for armholes in sides and decrease and increase in purled sections to shape.
The sleevecap is worked back and forth on circular needle, top down, before the sleeve is worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.
The piece is then sewn together and the neck worked to finish.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 21-21-22-22-24-24 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Cotton Merino. Work 1 RIDGE - read description above. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work A.1 (first row = right side). AT THE SAME TIME increase to neck as follows: On the 7th-7th-5th-5th-5th-5th row in A.1 start to increase for neck, i.e. cast on new stitches for the neck at the end of each row from the right side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch a total of 3-3-4-4-4-4 times and 2 stitches a total of 3 times = 31-31-33-33-35-35 stitches – read KNITTING TIP! The new stitches are worked as shown in diagram. Then on 19th row in A.1 cast on 15-15-17-17-18-18 new stitches for neck at the end of the row from the right side = 46-46-50-50-53-53 stitches. These 15-15-17-17-18-18 stitches are purled on the next row; the remaining stitches are worked as shown in the last row in A.1.
When A.1 is finished, work the next row as follows from the right side: Work A.2 (= 27-27-28-28-30-30 stitches), A.3 (= 14-14-17-17-18-18 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front – remember BUTTONHOLES on band – read description above. Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 15-14-15-13-14-12 cm = 6”-5 1/2”-6”-5 1/8”-5 1/2”-4 3/4” from the cast-on edge, increase 1 stitch for armhole on the inside of the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole – read INCREASE TO ARMHOLE (the increased stitches are worked as described in INCREASE TO ARMHOLE).
Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 5-8-8-11-12-16 times then cast on 3-4-4-6-8-10 new stitches at the end of the next row from the wrong side = 54-58-62-67-73-79 stitches.
When the last stitches have been cast on for the armhole, the piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7 1/2”-8”-8 1/4”-8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2” from the cast-on edge. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the row in the side. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Continue the pattern as before, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side and 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front.
When the piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” from the marker in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE FRONT PIECE. Repeat this decrease when the piece measures 7 cm = 2 3/4” from the marker = 50-54-58-63-69-75 stitches.
When the piece measures 10 cm = 4” from the marker in all sizes, increase 3 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE FRONT PIECE. When the piece measures 14½ cm = 5 3/4” from the marker, increase 4 stitches evenly spaced. Continue this increase, with alternately 3 and 4 stitches every 4½ cm = 1 3/4” a total of 10 times (increase alternately 3 stitches 5 times and 4 stitches 5 times) = 85-89-93-98-104-110 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm = 20 1/2”-21”-21 1/4”-21 5/8”-22”-22 1/2” from the marker (or to desired length; there is 1 cm left to finished length). Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Bind off with knit from the right side. The front piece measures approx. 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm = 28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30”-30 3/4”-31 1/2”-32 1/4” from the shoulder down.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 21-21-22-22-24-24 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Cotton Merino. Work 1 RIDGE - read description above. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work A.4 (first row = right side). AT THE SAME TIME increase for neck as follows: On the 8th-8th-6th-6th-6th-6th row in A.4 start to increase for neck by casting on new stitches at the end of each row from the wrong side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch a total of 3-3-4-4-4-4 times and 2 stitches a total of 3 times. The new stitches are worked as shown in diagram. Then on the last row of A.4 (wrong side), cast on 15-15-17-17-18-18 new stitches for neck at the end of the row = 46-46-50-50-53-53 stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.5 (= 14-14-17-17-18-18 stitches) and A.6 (= 27-27-28-28-30-30 stitches). Read KNITTING TIP and continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 15-14-15-13-14-12 cm = 6”-5 1/2”-6”-5 1/8”-5 1/2”-4 3/4” from the cast-on edge, increase 1 stitch for the armhole on the inside of the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole – read INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE (the increased stitches are worked as described in INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE).
Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 5-8-8-11-12-16 times, then cast on 3-4-4-6-8-10 new stitches at the end of the next row from the right side = 54-58-62-67-73-79 stitches.
When the last stitches have been cast on for the armhole, the piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7 1/2”-8”-8 1/4”-8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2” from the cast-on edge. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the row in the side. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Continue the pattern as before, with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side.
When the piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” from the marker in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE FRONT PIECE. Repeat this decrease when the piece measures 7 cm = 2 3/4” from the marker = 50-54-58-63-69-75 stitches.
When the piece measures 10 cm = 4” from the marker in all sizes, increase 3 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE FRONT PIECE. When the piece measures 14½ cm = 5 3/4” from the marker, increase 4 stitches evenly spaced. Continue this increase, with alternately 3 and 4 stitches every 4½ cm = 1 3/4” a total of 10 times (increase alternately 3 stitches 5 times and 4 stitches 5 times) = 85-89-93-98-104-110 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm = 20 1/2”-21”-21 1/4”-21 5/8”-22”-22 1/2” from the marker (or to desired length; there is 1 cm left to finished length). Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Bind off with knit from the right side. The front piece measures approx. 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm = 28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30”-30 3/4”-31 1/2”-32 1/4” from the shoulder down.

BACK RIGHT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 21-21-22-22-24-24 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Cotton Merino. Work 1 ridge. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work A.7 (first row = right side).
AT THE SAME TIME at the end of the 2nd row in A.7 (wrong side), cast on 2 new stitches for neck. Complete A.7. AT THE SAME TIME at the end of the last row in A.7 cast on 33-33-39-39-41-41 new stitches for neck (mid back of neck) = 57-57-64-64-68-68 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work back left shoulder as described below.

BACK LEFT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 21-21-22-22-24-24 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Cotton Merino. Work 1 ridge. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work A.8 (first row = right side).
AT THE SAME TIME at the end of the 3rd row in A.8 (right side), cast on 2 new stitches for neck. Complete A.8 = 24-24-25-25-27-27 stitches. Now the two sides are worked together for back piece as described below.

BACK PIECE:
Place the stitches from the right and left sides on same circular needle size 4 mm = 81-81-89-89-95-95 stitches. The first row is worked as follows from the right side (start working the stitches on left shoulder): Work A.9 (= 27-27-28-28-30-30 stitches), A.10 (= 27-27-33-33-35-35 stitches) and A.11 (= 27-27-28-28-30-30 stitches). Continue this pattern back and forth, but when A.X has been worked 1 time in height, work the repeats marked with a star upwards.
When the piece measures 15-14-15-13-14-12 cm = 6”-5 1/2”-6”-5 1/8”-5 1/2”-4 3/4” from the cast-on edge, increase for armholes on each side. Increase 1 stitch on the inside of the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side – read INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE (the increased stitches are worked as described in INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE).
Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 5-8-8-11-12-16 times, then cast on 3-4-4-6-8-10 new stitches at the end of the next two rows = 97-105-113-123-135-147 stitches.
When the last stitches have been cast on for the armholes, the piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm from the cast-on edge. Insert 1 marker at the end of the row in the side. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Continue the pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” from the marker in all sizes, decrease 4 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE BACK PIECE. Repeat this decrease when the piece measures 7 cm = 2 3/4” from the marker = 89-97-105-115-127-139 stitches.
When the piece measures 10 cm = 4” from the marker in all sizes, increase 7 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE BACK PIECE. Increase like this every 4½ cm = 1 3/4” a total of 10 times = 159-167-175-185-197-209 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm = 20 1/2"-21"-21 1/4"-21 5/8"-22"-22 1/2" from the marker (or to desired length; there is 1 cm = 3/8” left to finished length). Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Bind off with knit from the right side. The back piece measures approx. 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm = 28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30”-30 3/4”-31 1/2”-32 1/4” from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked top down. The sleeve cap is worked first, back and forth with circular needle, and then the sleeve is worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles to finished length.
Cast on 23-27-31-25-31-29 stitches with short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and Cotton Merino. Work A.14 back and forth, but count out from the middle – mid-stitch in A.14 should match mid-stitch on row.
AT THE SAME TIME cast on new stitches for sleeve cap at the end of each row on each side as follows (the new stitches are worked into A.14 as you go so that there are 5 purled stitches between each1 English rib stitch): Cast on 3 stitches 1 time on each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-4-4-4 times on each side, 1 stitch 5-6-6-7-7-9 times on each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-3-4 times on each side and 3 stitches 1-1-1-2-2-2 times on each side = 69-75-79-85-91-97 stitches.
When all the stitches have been cast on, join the piece and work in the round to finished length. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve).
The first round is worked as follows: Start 1 stitch before the marker thread (slip stitch before the marker thread onto left needle), work A.15 over the middle 2 stitches under the sleeve, purl 9-12-14-11-14-17 stitches, work A.16A over the next 48-48-48-60-60-60 stitches (= 8-8-8-10-10-10 repeats of 6 stitches), work A.16B (= 1 stitch) and finish with purl 9-12-14-11-14-17 stitches. Continue this pattern.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from where the piece was joined in the round, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 1½-1½-1½-1-1-1 cm = 1/2”-1/2”-1/2”-3/8”-3/8”-3/8” a total of 8-9-9-10-10-11 times = 53-57-61-65-71-75 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 45-45-45-43-43-42 cm = 17 3/4”-17 3/4”-17 3/4”-17”-17”-16 1/2” from where it was joined (or to desired length; there is 2 cm = 3/4” left to finished length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap).
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib in the round as follows: Continue with A.15 mid under sleeve, purl 1-3-2-1-1-3 stitches, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2-4-3-2-2-4 stitches left before A.15, knit 1 and purl 1-3-2-1-1-3. Continue this rib for approx. 1½ to 2 cm = 1/2” to 3/4”. Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 56-57-57-57-57-58 cm = 22”-22 1/2”-22 1/2”-22 1/2”-22 1/2”-22 3/4”, from the cast-on edge down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside the cast-on edge. Sew side seams from the armhole down – sew in outermost loop of outermost stitch so the seam is flat. Sew in sleeves (the sleeve is placed under the garter stitch edge along the armhole so this edge shows and sew in the outermost stitch along the garter stitch edge). Sew buttons onto left band.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 104 to 119 stitches around the neck with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 (number of stitches must be divisible by 3 + 2). The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on row, purl 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for approx.1½ to 2 cm = 1/2” to 3/4”. Loosely bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.03.2019
Correction - BACK PIECE: Continue working until the piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm = 20 1/2"-21"-21 1/4"-21 5/8"-22"-22 1/2" from the marker (or to desired length; there is 1 cm = 3/8" left to finished length)

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next row purl yarn over as shown in diagram (= hole)
= this square has no stitch, either because there was no stitch, or it has been decreased earlier; go straight to next symbol in diagram
= insert right needle through stitch from previous row, knit 1 and drop stitch from needle
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch
= knit 3, then pass first knitted stitch over the other 2, so that it lies around them (= 1 stitch decreased)
= place 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3 and knit 3 from cable needle
= place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3 and knit 3 from cable needle
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next row knit or purl yarn over twisted as shown in diagram (there should not be a hole)
= 1 repeat in height
= mid-stitch on sleeve







Joan 01.06.2019 - 05:34:

When adding for the armhole, I get that the first 3 stitches are added inside the 3-stitch garter stitch edge, but the next 8 being "worked into A.12" is confusing. What do the next additions look like? How does A.12 fit in relation to the 6 stitches I now have on the edge? Then the Right Side instruction says to add a total of 8 times, which is fewer than the 3+8 in the armhole instructions. I love your patterns, but the instructions are quite difficult to follow.

DROPS Design 03.06.2019 kl. 08:51:

Dear Joan, in size M and L you increase 8 sts and cast on 4 sts (= 12 new sts in total): purl the first 3 increases , then work the next 8 sts into A.12 (A.13) = these stitches should be worked first in stocking stitch and work the remaining st cast on as the edge stitch = in garter stitch. Happy knitting!

Joan 29.05.2019 - 04:47:

I don't understand the diagram instruction for the dark square with white plus. What stitch do I insert the right needle through and what stitch do I drop? Is there a video for this?

DROPS Design 29.05.2019 kl. 07:52:

Hi Joan. You knit 1 in the stitch from the previous round - the same technique as fisherman's rib, if you're familiar with that. We have a video illustrating how to do so, here: . We'll add this to the list of recommended videos for this pattern. Happy knitting

Kirsten Jørgensen 02.05.2019 - 08:32:

Der mangler en forklaring på det tegn, som dækker tre masker og er modsat "strik 3 m ret, løft den første maske over" Tre tern med streg fra højre for oven til nederst for neden. Strikkehilsen fra Kirsten

DROPS Design 02.05.2019 kl. 13:06:

Hei Kirsten. Alle symbolene som dekker de 3 maskene med en diagonal strek, skal være symbol "strik 3 m ret, løft den første maske over". De er blitt omvendt i noen av diagrammene, men det skal altså være samme symbol. Vi skal få rettet diagrammene snarest. Takk for beskjed og god fornøyelse

Tricy 14.02.2019 - 18:35:

Bonjour j'ai regardé sur tous les sites en français pour acheter des catalogues et surtout les derniers et pas moyen de s'en procurer....merci pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 15.02.2019 kl. 08:42:

Bonjour Tricy, nous ne commercialisons plus de catalogues imprimés avec explications, seules des brochures sont désormais disponibles, et vous pouvez toujours imprimer gratuitement les explications de nos modèles. Bon tricot!

Vicki Garlick 01.02.2019 - 10:29:

Love this pattern...and I think that's the name I chose for it...as when I wear it it'll be Victoria's Twirl....gorjus x

Iris 30.01.2019 - 06:37:

Oh, wie schön! Gestern noch hab ich auf die Anleitung gefiebert und heute ... zack, ist sie verfügbar! Danke!!

Iris 29.01.2019 - 06:36:

Tolle Jacke! Wolle liegt bereit und ich warte ungeduldig auf die Anleitung!

Roussy 21.01.2019 - 22:10:

Veste magnifique

Sue Cork 19.01.2019 - 02:12:

So anxious to get this pattern. Beautiful elegant my favorite by far.

Mona Sundqvist 14.01.2019 - 04:25:

Elegant, super !

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