DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 62.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Victoria's Twirl

Knitted long, shaped jacket in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 200-8
DROPS Design: Pattern no cm-102
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-114-124-136 cm = 34⅝"-37¾"-41"-45"-48¾"-53½"
Full length: 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm = 28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½"-32¼"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
700-800-850-950-1050-1150 g color 03, beige

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch and lace pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: length 80 cm = 32" for edges.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 7-8-8-8-9-9 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 62.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Right front piece: See diagrams A.1, A.2, A.3 and A.12.
Left front piece: See diagrams A.4, A.5, A.6 and A.13.
Back piece: See diagrams A.7 to A.13.
Sleeve: See diagrams A.14. to A.16.
The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from right side. Choose correct diagram for your size.

DIAGRAM TIP:
This pattern contains a lot of diagrams. It is a good idea to draw a ring around the diagrams for your size to make it easier to see where you are. Another option is to cut out the diagrams for your size and separate them into groups; right/left front pieces, back piece etc. (see PATTERN).

KNITTING TIP:
All numbers for stitches on front and back pieces are based on there being 3 stitches on the small cables; but be aware that the number of stitches in the small cables can vary between 3 and 2 and this will affect the number of stitches on the row.
On the sleeves the number of stitches is based on there being 2 stitches in the cable, as A.15 starts with 2 stitches.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side, after the last stitch is cast on for neck. Then work the next 6-7-7-7-8-8 buttonholes with approx. 9-8-8½-8½-7½-8 cm = 3½"-3⅛"-3¼"-3¼"-3"-3⅛" between each one.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE:
All increases are worked from the right side! Increase 1 stitch for the armhole on the inside of 3 edge stitches in garter stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) knit or purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
The new stitches are worked into the pattern as follows: The first 3-3-3-4-5-5 stitches are purled from the right side/knitted from the wrong side, the next 4-8-8-8-8-8 stitches are worked into A.12 (on right front piece and on right side of back piece), or into A.13 (on left front piece or left side of back piece), the next 0-0-0-4-6-12 stitches are purled from right side/knitted from wrong side, then finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side.

DECREASE FRONT PIECE (for decreasing in purled sections):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
When decreasing evenly in the purled sections, decrease in every other purled section, but it’s not decreased in all purl sections on the row.
Skip the purl section closest to band, decrease 1 stitch in the next purl section, skip the next purl section and then decrease 1 stitch in the next purled section.
The next time you decrease, skip the purl section closest to the band, skip the next purl section, decrease 1 stitch in the next purl section, skip the next purl section, decrease 1 stitch in the next purl section.
Decrease 1 stitch in a purled section by purling 2 stitches together. NOTE: It is neatest if you alternately decrease at the beginning and end of a purled section (not in the middle).

DECREASE BACK PIECE (for decreasing in purled sections):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
When decreasing evenly in the purled sections, decrease in every other purled section, but it’s not decreased in all purl sections on the row
Count from the middle stitch on the row to calculate where to start decreasing. Decrease 1 stitch in the purl section on both sides of the middle stitch, skip the next purl section each side of the middle stitch, and decrease in the next purl section on each side.
Next time you decrease, skip the first purl section on each side of the middle stitch, decrease 1 stitch in the next purl section on each side, skip the next purl section on each side and decrease 1 stitch in the next purl section on each side.
Decrease 1 stitch in a purled section by purling 2 stitches together. NOTE: It is neatest if you alternately decrease at the beginning and end of a purled section (not in the middle).

INCREASE FRONT PIECE (for increasing in purled sections):
All increases are worked from the right side!
When increasing evenly in the purled sections, increase in every other purled section, but it’s not increased inn all purl sections on the row
Skip the purl section closest to band, increase 1 stitch in the next purl section, skip the next purl section and then increase 1 stitch in the next purled section.
The next time you increase, skip the purl section closest to the band, skip the next purl section, increase 1 stitch in the next purl section, skip the next purl section, increase 1 stitch in the next purl section.
Increase 1 stitch in a purled section (seen from the right side) by making 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then purl the new stitches from the right side/knit from the wrong side. NOTE: It is neatest if you alternately increase at the beginning and end of a purled section (not in the middle).

INCREASE BACK PIECE (for increasing in purled sections):
All increases are worked from the right side!
When increasing evenly in the purled sections, increase in every other purled section across the middle 14 purl sections on the row.
Count the middle 14 purl sections and place a marker in each side to indicate where the increases start and end. The first time you increase 7 stitches evenly spaced, increase 1 stitch in the first purl section, skip the next purl section, increase 1 stitch in the next purl section etc until a total of 7 stitches are increased. The next time you increase, skip the first purl section, increase 1 stitch in the next purl section, skip the next purl section, increase in the next purl section etc, until a total of 7 stitches are increased.
Increase 1 stitch in a purled section (seen from the right side) by making 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then purl the new stitches from the right side/knit from the wrong side. NOTE: It is neatest if you alternately increase at the beginning and end of a purled section (not in the middle).

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.15 as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before A.15, purl 2 together, work A.15 (= 2/3 stitches), purl 2 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle in sections, top down.
Start with right front piece; i.e. work right shoulder, cast on new stitches for neck and increase to armhole. Then decrease and increase in purled sections to shape.
Left front piece is worked in the same way, but reversed. Back piece is also worked in the same way; i.e. work right shoulder, left shoulder, cast on new stitches for neck, increase for armholes in sides and decrease and increase in purled sections to shape.
The sleevecap is worked back and forth on circular needle, top down, before the sleeve is worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.
The piece is then sewn together and the neck worked to finish.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 21-21-22-22-24-24 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Cotton Merino. Work 1 RIDGE - read description above. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work A.1 (first row = right side). AT THE SAME TIME increase to neck as follows: On the 7th-7th-5th-5th-5th-5th row in A.1 start to increase for neck, i.e. cast on new stitches for the neck at the end of each row from the right side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch a total of 3-3-4-4-4-4 times and 2 stitches a total of 3 times = 31-31-33-33-35-35 stitches – read KNITTING TIP! The new stitches are worked as shown in diagram. Then on 19th row in A.1 cast on 15-15-17-17-18-18 new stitches for neck at the end of the row from the right side = 46-46-50-50-53-53 stitches. These 15-15-17-17-18-18 stitches are purled on the next row; the remaining stitches are worked as shown in the last row in A.1.
When A.1 is finished, work the next row as follows from the right side: Work A.2 (= 27-27-28-28-30-30 stitches), A.3 (= 14-14-17-17-18-18 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front – remember BUTTONHOLES on band – read description above. Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 15-14-15-13-14-12 cm = 6"-5½"-6"-5⅛"-5½"-4¾" from the cast-on edge, increase 1 stitch for armhole on the inside of the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole – read INCREASE TO ARMHOLE (the increased stitches are worked as described in INCREASE TO ARMHOLE).
Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 5-8-8-11-12-16 times then cast on 3-4-4-6-8-10 new stitches at the end of the next row from the wrong side = 54-58-62-67-73-79 stitches.
When the last stitches have been cast on for the armhole, the piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7½"-8"-8¼"-8¾"-9"-9½" from the cast-on edge. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the row in the side. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Continue the pattern as before, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side and 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front.
When the piece measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from the marker in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE FRONT PIECE. Repeat this decrease when the piece measures 7 cm = 2¾" from the marker = 50-54-58-63-69-75 stitches.
When the piece measures 10 cm = 4" from the marker in all sizes, increase 3 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE FRONT PIECE. When the piece measures 14½ cm = 5¾" from the marker, increase 4 stitches evenly spaced. Continue this increase, with alternately 3 and 4 stitches every 4½ cm = 1¾" a total of 10 times (increase alternately 3 stitches 5 times and 4 stitches 5 times) = 85-89-93-98-104-110 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm = 20½"-21"-21¼"-21⅝"-22"-22½" from the marker (or to desired length; there is 1 cm left to finished length). Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Bind off with knit from the right side. The front piece measures approx. 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm = 28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½"-32¼" from the shoulder down.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 21-21-22-22-24-24 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Cotton Merino. Work 1 RIDGE - read description above. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work A.4 (first row = right side). AT THE SAME TIME increase for neck as follows: On the 8th-8th-6th-6th-6th-6th row in A.4 start to increase for neck by casting on new stitches at the end of each row from the wrong side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch a total of 3-3-4-4-4-4 times and 2 stitches a total of 3 times. The new stitches are worked as shown in diagram. Then on the last row of A.4 (wrong side), cast on 15-15-17-17-18-18 new stitches for neck at the end of the row = 46-46-50-50-53-53 stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.5 (= 14-14-17-17-18-18 stitches) and A.6 (= 27-27-28-28-30-30 stitches). Read KNITTING TIP and continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 15-14-15-13-14-12 cm = 6"-5½"-6"-5⅛"-5½"-4¾" from the cast-on edge, increase 1 stitch for the armhole on the inside of the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole – read INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE (the increased stitches are worked as described in INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE).
Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 5-8-8-11-12-16 times, then cast on 3-4-4-6-8-10 new stitches at the end of the next row from the right side = 54-58-62-67-73-79 stitches.
When the last stitches have been cast on for the armhole, the piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7½"-8"-8¼"-8¾"-9"-9½" from the cast-on edge. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the row in the side. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Continue the pattern as before, with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side.
When the piece measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from the marker in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE FRONT PIECE. Repeat this decrease when the piece measures 7 cm = 2¾" from the marker = 50-54-58-63-69-75 stitches.
When the piece measures 10 cm = 4" from the marker in all sizes, increase 3 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE FRONT PIECE. When the piece measures 14½ cm = 5¾" from the marker, increase 4 stitches evenly spaced. Continue this increase, with alternately 3 and 4 stitches every 4½ cm = 1¾" a total of 10 times (increase alternately 3 stitches 5 times and 4 stitches 5 times) = 85-89-93-98-104-110 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm = 20½"-21"-21¼"-21⅝"-22"-22½" from the marker (or to desired length; there is 1 cm left to finished length). Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Bind off with knit from the right side. The front piece measures approx. 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm = 28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½"-32¼" from the shoulder down.

BACK RIGHT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 21-21-22-22-24-24 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Cotton Merino. Work 1 ridge. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work A.7 (first row = right side).
AT THE SAME TIME at the end of the 2nd row in A.7 (wrong side), cast on 2 new stitches for neck. Complete A.7. AT THE SAME TIME at the end of the last row in A.7 cast on 33-33-39-39-41-41 new stitches for neck (mid back of neck) = 57-57-64-64-68-68 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work back left shoulder as described below.

BACK LEFT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 21-21-22-22-24-24 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Cotton Merino. Work 1 ridge. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work A.8 (first row = right side).
AT THE SAME TIME at the end of the 3rd row in A.8 (right side), cast on 2 new stitches for neck. Complete A.8 = 24-24-25-25-27-27 stitches. Now the two sides are worked together for back piece as described below.

BACK PIECE:
Place the stitches from the right and left sides on same circular needle size 4 mm = 81-81-89-89-95-95 stitches. The first row is worked as follows from the right side (start working the stitches on left shoulder): Work A.9 (= 27-27-28-28-30-30 stitches), A.10 (= 27-27-33-33-35-35 stitches) and A.11 (= 27-27-28-28-30-30 stitches). Continue this pattern back and forth, but when A.X has been worked 1 time in height, work the repeats marked with a star upwards.
When the piece measures 15-14-15-13-14-12 cm = 6"-5½"-6"-5⅛"-5½"-4¾" from the cast-on edge, increase for armholes on each side. Increase 1 stitch on the inside of the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side – read INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE (the increased stitches are worked as described in INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE).
Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 5-8-8-11-12-16 times, then cast on 3-4-4-6-8-10 new stitches at the end of the next two rows = 97-105-113-123-135-147 stitches.
When the last stitches have been cast on for the armholes, the piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm from the cast-on edge. Insert 1 marker at the end of the row in the side. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Continue the pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from the marker in all sizes, decrease 4 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE BACK PIECE. Repeat this decrease when the piece measures 7 cm = 2¾" from the marker = 89-97-105-115-127-139 stitches.
When the piece measures 10 cm = 4" from the marker in all sizes, increase 7 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE BACK PIECE. Increase like this every 4½ cm = 1¾" a total of 10 times = 159-167-175-185-197-209 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm = 20½"-21"-21¼"-21⅝"-22"-22½" from the marker (or to desired length; there is 1 cm = ⅜" left to finished length). Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Bind off with knit from the right side. The back piece measures approx. 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm = 28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½"-32¼" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked top down. The sleeve cap is worked first, back and forth with circular needle, and then the sleeve is worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles to finished length.
Cast on 23-27-31-25-31-29 stitches with short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and Cotton Merino. Work A.14 back and forth, but count out from the middle – mid-stitch in A.14 should match mid-stitch on row.
AT THE SAME TIME cast on new stitches for sleeve cap at the end of each row on each side as follows (the new stitches are worked into A.14 as you go so that there are 5 purled stitches between each1 English rib stitch): Cast on 3 stitches 1 time on each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-4-4-4 times on each side, 1 stitch 5-6-6-7-7-9 times on each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-3-4 times on each side and 3 stitches 1-1-1-2-2-2 times on each side = 69-75-79-85-91-97 stitches.
When all the stitches have been cast on, join the piece and work in the round to finished length. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve).
The first round is worked as follows: Start 1 stitch before the marker thread (slip stitch before the marker thread onto left needle), work A.15 over the middle 2 stitches under the sleeve, purl 9-12-14-11-14-17 stitches, work A.16A over the next 48-48-48-60-60-60 stitches (= 8-8-8-10-10-10 repeats of 6 stitches), work A.16B (= 1 stitch) and finish with purl 9-12-14-11-14-17 stitches. Continue this pattern.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 2 cm = ¾" from where the piece was joined in the round, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 1½-1½-1½-1-1-1 cm = ½"-½"-½"-⅜"-⅜"-⅜" a total of 8-9-9-10-10-11 times = 53-57-61-65-71-75 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 45-45-45-43-43-42 cm = 17¾"-17¾"-17¾"-17"-17"-16½" from where it was joined (or to desired length; there is 2 cm = ¾" left to finished length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap).
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib in the round as follows: Continue with A.15 mid under sleeve, purl 1-3-2-1-1-3 stitches, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2-4-3-2-2-4 stitches left before A.15, knit 1 and purl 1-3-2-1-1-3. Continue this rib for approx. 1½ to 2 cm = ½" to ¾". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 56-57-57-57-57-58 cm = 22"-22½"-22½"-22½"-22½"-22¾", from the cast-on edge down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside the cast-on edge. Sew side seams from the armhole down – sew in outermost loop of outermost stitch so the seam is flat. Sew in sleeves (the sleeve is placed under the garter stitch edge along the armhole so this edge shows and sew in the outermost stitch along the garter stitch edge). Sew buttons onto left band.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 104 to 119 stitches around the neck with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 (number of stitches must be divisible by 3 + 2). The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on row, purl 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for approx.1½ to 2 cm = ½" to ¾". Loosely bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 18.03.2019
Correction - BACK PIECE: Continue working until the piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm = 20 1/2"-21"-21 1/4"-21 5/8"-22"-22 1/2" from the marker (or to desired length; there is 1 cm = 3/8" left to finished length)

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next row purl yarn over as shown in diagram (= hole)
symbols = this square has no stitch, either because there was no stitch, or it has been decreased earlier; go straight to next symbol in diagram
symbols = insert right needle through stitch from previous row, knit 1 and drop stitch from needle
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch
symbols = knit 3, then pass first knitted stitch over the other 2, so that it lies around them (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3 and knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3 and knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next row knit or purl yarn over twisted as shown in diagram (there should not be a hole)
symbols = 1 repeat in height
symbols = mid-stitch on sleeve
diagram
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diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (36)

country flag Ylva wrote:

Hei! Hva betyr det når det står på høyre forstykke at de neste fem og de neste åtte og de neste tolv maskene skal strikkes? Er de de samme maskene lagt sammen, ellet er det fem, åtte og tolv nye masker etter hverandre?

26.08.2022 - 15:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ylva. Litt usikker på hva du mener med og hvor i oppskriften under HØYRE FORSTYKKE du henvender deg til når du skriver: "....neste fem og de neste åtte og de neste tolv maskene skal strikkes...." Om du mener der det står:" ...totalt 5-8-8-11-12-16 ganger..." Så skal du i str. S øke som forklart i oppskriften på hver 2. pinne (dvs på hver pinne fra retten) totalt 5 ganger. I str. M og L 8 ganger, i str. XL 11 ganger, i str. XXL 12 ganger og i str. XXL 16 ganger. Om det ble feil forklart, send oss gjerne et nytt spørsmål + hvilken str du strikker. mvh DROPS Design

29.08.2022 - 11:25

country flag Josée wrote:

Bonjour,je fais la grandeur large. Au diagramme A2 lorsque nous avons fait les 4 premiers rang . Je ne comprends pas comment terminer le diagramme? J’espère que vous allez pouvoir m’aider. Merci.

04.07.2022 - 01:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Josée, dans A.2 (notamment) les motifs ne se répètent pas au même rythme, autrement dit, lorsque vous avez tricoté les 4 premiers rangs sur les 19 premières mailles, reprenez au 1er rang et répétez ainsi ces 4 rangs sur ces 19 mailles. En même temps, continuez les 8 dernières mailles jusqu'à ce que les 10 rangs soient terminés et répétez ces 10 rangs sur ces 8 mailles. Bon tricot!

04.07.2022 - 08:30

country flag Pernille wrote:

Skøn trøje! Er det muligt at strikke ærmerne fra vrangen, så jeg undgår at skulle stikke alle de vrangmasker? I bekræftende fald har jeg brug for hjælp til, hvordan jeg strikker mønster masken fra forrige pind korrekt.

04.04.2022 - 16:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pernille, ja det kan du sikkert gøre - prøv at lave en lille strikkeprøve hvor du har mønsteret fra retsiden, så kan du sammenligne med en prøve fra vrangen og se om du får samme mønster :)

05.04.2022 - 08:19

country flag Laetitia LAIR wrote:

Bonjour, Je vous remercie pour votre réponse. Pouvez-vous me préciser les différents diagrammes que l'on retrouve sur les 73 mailles du demi-devant droit après les augmentations des emmanchures. Je suis un peu perdue et que deviennent les 3 mailles au point mousse du côté emmanchure ? Merci d'avance.

16.10.2021 - 18:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lair, en XXL voustricotez ainsi les 73 m (vu sur l'endroit) du devant droit: 1 m lis au point mousse, 6 m jersey envers, A.12 (= 8 m), 5 m jersey envers (= 1+6+8+5= 20 soit 12 x 1 m augmentées + 8 m montées), A.2 (= 30 m), A.3 (= 18 m), 5 m de bordure devant = 1+6+8+5+30+18+5=73. Bon tricot!

18.10.2021 - 08:54

country flag Laetitia LAIR wrote:

Bonjour, Je tricote la taille XXL. J'ai fait les augmentations des emmanchures et monter les 8 mailles à la fin du rang envers. J'ai tricoté à l'envers sur l'endroit les 5 premières augmentations , en A12 les 8 augmentations suivantes et 6mailles à l'envers sur l'endroit et 1 maille lisière. Que devient les 3 mailles au point mousse ? On continue de continuer ces 3 mailles au point mousse jusqu'à la fin de l'ouvrage ? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse.

13.10.2021 - 16:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lair, quand toutes les mailles ont été montées, vous continuez comme avant (avec les différents diagrammes, les mailles endroit et les mailles envers comme avant) avec 5 mailles de bordure point mousse pour la bordure devant et 1 maille lisière au point mousse sur le côté. Bon tricot!

14.10.2021 - 09:16

country flag Kattis wrote:

Jag ska öka till höger ärmhål och har lagt upp 8 nya maskor innanför de tre kantmaskorna. Jag ska nu lägga upp 4 till i slutet på nästa aviga varv. Dessa 12 nya maskorna ska stickas som 3 maskor slätstickning, 8 maskor mönster enl A12 och en kantmaska. Men var hamnar de 3 ursprungliga kantmaskorna? Känns som jag har 3 maskor för mycket?

05.03.2021 - 10:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kattis, när du ökar 1 maska innanför 3 kantmaskor på vartannat varv, stickas de 3 kantmaskorna fortfarande i rätstickning. Först när du är klar med ökningarna och skall lägga upp nya maskor i slutet av varvet från avigsidan, stickas alla maskorna i mönstret och 1 kanmaska i sidan i rätst. Lycka till :)

05.03.2021 - 13:10

country flag Carmen wrote:

Hallo, ich bin noch ganz am Anfang dieser schönen Weste. Gibt es denn keine Randmaschen? Oder werden diese extra zum Muster noch hinzugestrickt? Es wäre nett, wenn mir jemand antworten könnte.

13.10.2020 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carmen, bis alle Maschen für die Blende angeschlagen sind, gibt es keine Randmaschen, die Maschen werden wie im Diagram A.1 bzw A.4 gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.10.2020 - 07:55

country flag Birgith wrote:

Hvad mener I med “når tøjet er på” Opskriften starter med det, allerede ved første forstykke

22.03.2020 - 09:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Birgith. Det menes det gjelder høyre stykket når plagget er på deg, ikke når du strikker - ser på plagget. mvh DROPS design

23.03.2020 - 15:28

country flag CELIA wrote:

Bonjour, Je peux me tromper mais il n'y aurait pas un problème sur vos diagrammes ? (en plus de la numérotation A5 / A6) En taille S, le A1 a 7 rangs en bas et 3 tout en haut mais le A4 a 8 rangs en bas et 2 tout en haut. Les devants droite et gauche sont sensés être symétrique, non ?

29.07.2019 - 13:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Celia! J'ai verifie cela encore une fois et sur le devant gauche tout est bien dans les explications du modele: "Tricoter le rang suivant sur l'endroit ainsi: 5 mailles de bordure devant au point mousse, A.5 (= 14-14-17-17-18-18 mailles) et A.6 (= 27-27-28-28-30-30 mailles)" > donc a partir de la bordure devant gauche, on a les diagrammes, respectivement A.5, A.6 et A.4. Bon tricot!

29.07.2019 - 17:06

country flag CELIA wrote:

Bonjour, Je commence tout juste ce modèle et étudie les instructions et une chose me semble étrange au niveau des diagramme pour les devants : si les le devant droit c'est A1, A2, A3, le devant gauche ne devrait-il pas être A4, A6, A5 et non A4, A5, A6 ? Ma question est peut être idiote mais je voudrais pas me tromper. Merci.

28.07.2019 - 17:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Celia! Il me semble que vous avez raison. Je vais le confirmer et si necessaire une correction sera ajoutee. Bon tricot!

29.07.2019 - 11:08