DROPS / 200 / 20

Mahala by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Bomull-Lin or DROPS Paris. The piece is worked with lace pattern and garter stitch. Sizes S – XXXL.

Tags: lace, sweaters,

DROPS Design: Pattern no l-151
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 94-102-110-118-130-142 cm = 37”-40”-43 3/8”-46 1/2”-51 1/4”-55 3/4”
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g color 03, light beige
Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-600-650-750-800-900 g color 26, beige

KNITTING GAUGE:
15 stitches in width and 19 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
15 stitches in width and 29 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
14 stitches in width with lace pattern A.1b = 10 cm = 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: length 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: length 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for sleeves.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (5)

53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 3.75 $ /50g
DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour 3.75 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 72 stitches) minus edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide remaining stitches by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 17.5.
In this example, decrease by alternately knitting together each 16th and 17th stitch and each 17th and 18th stitch.
When increasing make 1 yarn over after alternately each 17th and 18th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for neck):
All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch after the 3 stitches in garter stitch from the neck as follows: slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch before the 3 stitches in garter stitch from the neck as follows: work until there are 5 stitches left before the neck, knit 2 together and work 3 stitches in garter stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over inside the 1 edge stitch on each side. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches into pattern A.7.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth in sections and sewn together to finish. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle. Bomull-Lin becomes more even and neater after washing. When the garment is finished rinse it and place in right measurements (see sketch), and dry flat.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 72-78-84-90-100-108 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and Bomull-Lin or Paris. Work GARTER STITCH – read description above, back and forth for 5-6-6-7-7-8 cm = 2”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”. Now work pattern A.1a with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side of the piece. On the row with a black star, decrease 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP-1 = 68-74-80-84-94-102 stitches. On the row with a white star, increase 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches evenly spaced – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP -1 = 72-78-84-90-100-108 stitches. Continue the same decreases on each row with a black star and increases on each row with a white star. This is to compensate for the different knitting gauges in the different structures. The edge stitch on each side is continued to finished length. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE. When A.1a has been completed in height continue with A.1b for 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm = 4”-4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-4 3/4”-4 3/4”, then work A.1c.
Now work pattern A.2a. When A.2a has been completed in height work A.2b for 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm = 4”-4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-4 3/4”-4 3/4”,; at the same time when the piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm = 16 1/2”-17”-17 1/4”-17 3/4”-18”-18 1/2” (if your knitting gauge is correct you are still working A.2b) bind off 2-2-2-4-6-6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 64-70-76-76-82-90 stitches. Continue with pattern as before and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When A.2b has been worked for 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm = 4”-4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-4 3/4”-4 3/4”, continue with A.2c, then work the first 10 rows in A.3. There are now 68-74-80-82-88-96 stitches on the needle. Now bind off the middle 22-24-22-24-26-26 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue with stockinette stitch and 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck; at the same time on the next row from the neck decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 22-24-28-28-30-34 stitches. When you have worked 6 rows of stockinette stitch, continue with garter stitch for approx. 2-3-3-4-4-5 cm = 3/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2”. The piece measures a total of 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4" from the shoulder down. Bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work pattern in the same way as the back piece. Bind off stitches for the armholes in the same way as well. When there is 1 row left in A.2c there are 68-74-80-82-88-96 stitches on the needle. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side:
Work as before over the first 25-27-31-31-33-37 stitches before placing them on 1 thread for right shoulder, bind off the next 18-20-18-20-22-22 stitches for neck and work as before over the remaining 25-27-31-31-33-37 stitches = left shoulder.
Work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.4 until there are 8 stitches left, A.5 over the next 8 stitches. On the row with the white circle decrease 2 stitches evenly spaced over A.4 in all sizes (you also decrease 1 stitch in A.5) = 22-24-28-28-30-34 stitches. On the row with the black circle increase 2 stitches evenly spaced over A.4 in all sizes = 22-24-28-28-30-34 stitches. Continue working until A.4 and A.5 have been completed in height. Then continue with garter stitch for approx. 2-3-3-4-4-5 cm = 3/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2”; adjust to match the back piece. Bind off. The piece measures a total of 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4" from the shoulder down. The right shoulder is worked as follows:
Start from the right side (= from neck) and work A.6 over the first 8 stitches, A.4 until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On the row with the white circle decrease 2 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes (you also decrease 1 stitch in A.6) = 22-24-28-28-30-34 stitches. On the row with the black circle increase 2 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes = 22-24-28-28-30-34 stitches. Continue working until A.4 and A.6 have been completed in height. Then continue with garter stitch for 2-3-3-4-4-5 cm = 3/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2” – adjust to match the left shoulder and the back piece. Bind off.

SLEEVE:
You use circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 when working lace pattern and garter stitch and circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 when working stockinette stitch (i.e. rows 15-20 and 27-34 in A.7). This compensates for the different knitting gauge when working stockinette stitch and lace pattern/garter stitch.
Cast on 34-36-36-38-40-42 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and Bomull-Lin or Paris. Work 2 ridges. Then work pattern A.7 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side to finished length. When the piece measures 6-6-7-7-7-8 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8” increase 1 stitch on each side of the piece – read INCREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves). Increase like this in the different sizes:
Size S: Increase approx. every 7 cm = 2 3/4” a total of 7 times.
Size M: Increase every 5 cm = 2” a total of 9 times.
Size L: Increase approx. every 4 cm = 1 1/2” a total of 10 times.
Size XL: Increase approx. every 4 cm = 1 1/2” a total of 10 times.
Size XXL: Increase alternately every 3 cm = 1 1/8” and every 4 cm a total of 11 times.
Size XXXL: Increase approx. every 3 cm = 1 1/8” a total of 11 times.
When all increases are finished there are 50-54-56-58-62-64 stitches on the needle. Continue working until the piece measures 52-51-50-50-49-47 cm = 20 1/2”-20”-19 3/4”-19 3/4”-19 1/4”-18 1/2” – adjust so that you finish after a garter stitch or a stockinette stitch section. Bind off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder steams with grafting stitches. Make sure the seam is not tight. Sew sleeves to body inside the edge stitch on body and the bind-off edge on sleeves. Sew sleeve seams inside the 1 edge stitch on each side and continue down the side seams. You can leave approx.10-15 cm = 4”-6” for split at the bottom of body if you wish. Repeat on the other side.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next row (wrong side) purl yarn over to leave a hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= decrease row: decrease 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches evenly on this row - read description in text
= increase row: increase 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches evenly on this row - read description in text
= decrease row: decrease 2 stitches on this row - read description in text
= increase row: increase 2 stitches evenly on this row - read description in text



Joke 28.03.2019 - 11:03:

Ik mis bij de afwerking de halsboord. Zo te zien ... steken opnemen en een paar naalden ribbels breien?

DROPS Design 28.03.2019 kl. 12:21:

Dag Joke,

De halsrand is al in het patroon van het voor- en achterpand verwerkt. Bij het achterpand bijvoorbeeld, kant je steken af als je de 1e 10 naalden van A.3 hebt gebreid, wat betekent dat je 2 ribbels hebt gebreid.

Germana 07.03.2019 - 21:29:

Buonasera ho un problema sto eseguendo la taglia m nel dietro quando mi dice di diminuire 2 m per gli scalfi dovrei avere poi 70 m io invece ne ho 74 dove sbaglio? Grazie

Ola 03.03.2019 - 23:27:

Coś jest nie tak z gwiazdkami w opisie. Wg słownego opisu robótki po przerobieniu schematu A.3 robótka ma 68 oczek, a w rzeczywistości (gdyby robić zgodnie ze schematem z gwiazdkami) długość robótki to tylko 60 oczek, aż o 8 mniej niż powinno wyjść. Gwiazdki powinny być prawdopodobnie odwrotnie oznaczone.

Kristin 03.03.2019 - 16:06:

In de beschrijving staan volgens mij de sterren verkeerd beschreven. Het moet andersom. Bij de zwarte ster zou je moeten meerderen en bij de witte ster minderen. Het kantpatroon wordt bij mij juist van zichzelf breder dan het tricotpatroon. Bij de mouw staat immers ook: bij het tricotpatroon naald 6 gebruiken.

Angelika 14.12.2018 - 07:30:

Finde diesen Pulli sehr luftig für den Frühling. Möchte ihn sehr gerne nachstricken.

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