Red Nose Jumper Kids by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper for children in DROPS Nepal. The piece is worked with a reindeer motif. Sizes 2 - 12 years. Theme: Christmas.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-026-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-250-250-300-350-400 g colour 3620, red
(You will need an extra 50-50-50-50-50-50 g of colour 3620 red if you do not work the reindeer on the back)
50-50-50-100-100-100 g colour 6314, denim blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 0206, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 0612, medium brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 0300, beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 2923, goldenrod

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM – for necklace on reindeer.

ACCESSORIES: A small red decorative heart of approx. 2 cm in diameter or something similar which can be used for the necklace on the reindeer (it must have a hole to thread the row of chain-stitches through).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 1.55 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 1.55 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.95£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
1 edge stitch in garter stitch = knit the stitch from both the right and wrong side

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
The reindeer is worked in stocking stitch.
To avoid long strands at the back of the piece when working pattern, you can work with 3/5 balls. In other words, work with 1 ball of denim blue/red on each side of the reindeer and with 1 ball of medium brown/beige/light beige in the middle of the jumper (i.e. A.1/A.2). To avoid holes when changing colour, twist the strands together when changing colour.

INCREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Front and back pieces are worked back and forth with circular needle (with or without a reindeer on back piece). The parts are worked separately, bottom up. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles / short circular needle, bottom up.

BACK PIECE WITH REINDEER:
Cast on 54-58-62-66-70-74 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with circular needle size 4 mm and denim blue. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 * work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm – adjust so that the next row is from the right side.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work 10-12-14-16-20-24 rows stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Change to red and work the next row as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 13-15-17-19-21-23 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.1 (= 26 stitches) – read PATTERN, work 13-15-17-19-21-23 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. When the piece measures 21-23-26-29-32-35 cm cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 52-56-60-64-68-72 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and A.1. When A.1 has been completed, continue with red over all stitches. When the piece measures 31-34-38-42-46-50 cm cast off the middle 18-20-22-24-24-26 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Then cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 16-17-18-19-21-22 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 32-35-39-43-47-51 cm – adjust so that the next row is worked from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The jumper measures approx. 33-36-40-44-48-52 cm from the shoulder down.

BACKPIECE WITHOUT REINDEER:
Cast on 54-58-62-66-70-74 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 mm and denim blue. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 * work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm – adjust so that the next row is from the right side.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work 10-12-14-16-20-24 rows stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Change to red and continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 21-23-26-29-32-35 cm cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows for armholes = 52-56-60-64-68-72 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 31-34-38-42-46-50 cm cast off the middle 18-20-22-24-24-26 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Then cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 16-17-18-19-21-22 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 32-35-39-43-47-51 cm – adjust so that the next row is worked from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The jumper measures approx. 33-36-40-44-48-52 cm from the shoulder down.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 54-58-62-66-70-74 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 mm and denim blue. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 * work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm – adjust so that the next row is from the right side.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work 2-4-6-8-12-16 rows stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
The next row is worked with denim blue as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 11-13-15-17-19-21 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.2 (= 30 stitches) – read PATTERN, work 11-13-15-17-19-21 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. When the row with an arrow in A.2 has been worked change the background colour from denim blue to red. Continue the pattern in the same way with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When the piece measures 21-23-26-29-32-35 cm cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 52-56-60-64-68-72 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and A.2. When A.2 has been completed, continue with red over all stitches. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 30-31-35-38-42-45 cm place the middle 14-16-16-18-18-18 stitches on 1 thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Then cast off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-2-3 times = 16-17-18-19-21-22 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue until the piece measures 32-35-39-43-47-51 cm – adjust so that the next row is worked from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The jumper measures approx. 33-36-40-44-48-52 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 28-28-32-32-32-36 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm and red. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). The marker thread will be used a little later when increasing under the sleeve. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 6-6-6-6-8-8 cm increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3½-3-3½-3½-3-3½ cm a total of 6-8-8-9-11-11 times = 40-44-48-50-54-58 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 26-30-34-38-42-46 cm (or to desired length). Loosely cast off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew the side seams inside the 1 edge stitch on each side. Sew in sleeves.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 46 to 66 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the thread at the front) with short circular needle size 4 mm and red. Knit 1 round where you increase evenly on the round to 56-60-64-72-72-76 stitches. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for approx. 3-3-3-3-4-4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

HAIR:
Fasten 3 fringes both on the front and the back of the head.
1 fringe = cut 2 strands of medium brown, each approx. 8-9 cm. Lay the strands together and pull them around a stitch at the top of the reindeer’s head, between the beige on the head and the brown on the antlers - middle of head. Tie a double knot. Fasten another fringe on each side of the middle-fringe – see photo.

EYES:
Make 2 eyes with medium brown as follows: 1 eye: Cut 3 strand of approx. 40 cm. Make 4 knots around a needle size 5 mm - see diagram A.3 (i.e. make 3 LOOSE knots, make 1 more knot and tighten the strand on this knot = 1 knot). Make 1 more eye. Place the eyes on the front of the reindeer’s head, just above the light beige section - see photo. Pull the strand-ends through the garment on each side of one stitch and tie them at the back.



NOSE:
Make a pom pom with red, approx. 5-6 cm in diameter, remember to leave 2 strands to fasten the pom pom with. Fasten the pom pom to the front of the reindeer’s head in the middle of the light beige section. Thread the strand ends through the garment on each side of one stitch and tie together on the wrong side.

NECKLACE BACK (for back piece with reindeer):
Work a row of chain stitches of approx. 14 cm with hook size 4 mm and goldenrod. Place the necklace across the reindeer’s neck on the back piece. Fasten the strand-ends on the wrong side of the garment.

NECKLACE FRONT:
Work a row of chain stitches of approx. 16-18 cm with hook size 4 mm and goldenrod. Thread a red heart, or something similar, onto the row of chain stitches and tie a knot so that the heart stays in the middle of the row. Place the necklace across the reindeer’s neck on the front piece. Fasten the strand-ends on the wrong side of the garment.

Diagram

= red
= denim blue
= medium brown
= beige
= light beige
= when the row with an arrow in A.2 has been worked change the background colour from denim blue to red



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 32-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (3)

Marta 03.12.2019 - 20:18:

Como se haría con dos agujas en vez de agujas circulares ME PODEIS AYUDAR patrón 18 meses Jersei del reno

DROPS Design 10.12.2019 kl. 00:16:

Hola Marta. Puedes leer nuestra lección sobre cómo adaptar un modelo trabajado con agujas circulares a agujas rectas: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=13&cid=23

Martine Degryse 02.11.2019 - 18:01:

Is het ook mogelijk om patronen te bekomen voor het breien met de machine ?

DROPS Design 05.11.2019 kl. 10:19:

Dag Martine,

Helaas hebben we alleen patronen voor breien met de hand.

Michele 16.09.2019 - 14:33:

I bought 2 different yarns for two jumpers following the suggestions given earlier in the year. You have only given the instructions for using Nepal and I would like to check the needle size for using Air and also hope the instructions remain the same.

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 15:25:

Dear Michele, both Nepal and Air belong to yarn group C so that you should get the same knitting tension with both yarns - you'll find all yarn alternatives suggested in the DROPS-Along here. Happy knitting!

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