Run Run Rudolph by DROPS Design

Knitted onesie for children, with round yoke in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes 12 months – 6 years.

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-045-bn
Yarn group B
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Sizes: 12/18 months - 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years
Size equivalent to height of child in cm:
80/86 - 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 
Materials: 
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300-350-400 g colour 07, light brown
50-50-50-100 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50 g colour 11, red

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM – for stocking stitch on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – for rib on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM: for noses.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, Oak NO 503: 5-6-7-7 items.

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100% Wool
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP (for bands):
The whole band is worked in light brown. In other words use 1 ball of light brown for each band where needed (i.e. on the rows where light brown is not part of the pattern).
Change strand between band and body (so you do not get a change of strands outermost on band). When changing strand, twist the strands together so that the stitches stay together.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out when to decrease/increase on the row, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches), minus the bands (= 74 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 10.6. In this example, decrease by alternately working together each 9th and 10th stitch and each 10th and 11th stitch (approx.), or increase alternately after each 10th and 11th stitch (approx.) by making 1 yarn over (the yarn overs are worked twisted on the next row to avoid holes – NOTE: Do not decrease/increase over bands).

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Start 2 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work 4 stitches (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. 

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve and inside of leg):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = start from the wrong side and knit together stitches 2 and 3 from the edge, make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked after approx. 1½-2 cm on the neck, then work the next 4-5-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8-8-7½-8 cm between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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ONESIE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front. To make measuring the length of the sleeves and legs easier, the onesie is worked top down.

NECK:
Cast on 84-88-92-96 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and light brown. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, in each side of the piece. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left and finish with knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the rib like this for 3 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above and finish after 1 row from the right side.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side and decrease 7-5-4-1 stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 77-83-88-95 stitches. Then work an elevation in the back of the neck in stocking stitch as follows (this gives the garment a better fit): Knit until there are 12-13-14-15 stitches left on the row, turn, tighten the strand and purl until there are 12-13-14-15 stitches left on the other side. Turn, tighten the strand and knit until there are 20-22-24-26 stitches left on the row, turn, tighten the strand and purl until there are 20-22-24-26 stitches left on the other side. Turn, tighten the strand and knit until there are 28-31-34-37 stitches left on the row, turn, tighten the strand and purl until there are 28-31-34-37 stitches left on the other side. Turn, tighten the strand and knit to end of row, then purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands worked in garter stitch). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work pattern according to A.1 until there are 6 stitches left on the row – NOTE: Choose diagram for your size (= 11-12-11-12 repeats of 6-6-7-7 stitches), work A.2 (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern and increase as shown in the diagram – read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 and A.2 have been completed there are 187-203-220-239 stitches on the needle.
Continue with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side in light brown.
On the next row from the right side increase 7-7-10-7 stitches evenly on row (do not increase over bands) = 194-210-230-246 stitches.
Work until the piece measures approx. 13-14-15-16 cm mid front (measured without the neck).
Now divide the piece as follows: Work 29-31-34-36 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 42-46-50-54 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working then), cast on 6 new stitches on the needle, work 52-56-62-66 stitches (= back piece), place the next 42-46-50-54 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 6 new stitches on the needle and work the remaining 29-31-34-36 stitches as before (= front piece) = 122-130-142-150 stitches. 

BODY:
Insert 1 marker thread 32-34-37-39 stitches in from each side (= 58-62-68-72 stitches between marker threads for back piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band. When the piece measures 10-10-12-12 cm from where body and sleeves were divided, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Repeat these increases when the piece measures 20-20-24-24 cm from where body and sleeves were divided = 130-138-150-158 stitches. When the piece measures 29-31-35-38 cm from where body and sleeves were divided, finish the bands mid front. Cast off the first 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 124-132-144-152 stitches. Then work stocking stitch in the round over all stitches for approx. 3 cm – the piece now measures 32-34-38-41 cm from the armhole down and 45-48-53-57 cm mid front (measured without neck). Now divide for the legs. 

LEG:
Start mid front, change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work stocking stitch in the round over the first 62-66-72-76 stitches (the remaining 62-66-72-76 stitches are left on the circular needle). Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= inside of leg). When the leg measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches on the inside of the leg – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3rd-4th-6th-7th round a total of 10-10-11-11 times = 42-46-50-54 stitches. When the leg measures 13-18-25-31 cm from the division increase 10 stitches evenly on round = 52-56-60-64 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 8-8-10-10 cm or to desired length. On the next round increase all purl 2 to purl 3 = 65-70-75-80 stitches. Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Place stitches from the circular needle onto double pointed needles size 4 mm and work the other leg in the same way. The whole piece measures approx. 71-79-93-103 cm, measured from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 48-52-56-60 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches = mid under sleeve). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work stocking stitch in the round with light brown. When the sleeve measures 2-2-1-1 cm from where the sleeve was divided from the body, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3rd-3rd-4th-4th round a total of 7-9-10-12 times = 34-34-36-36 stitches. When the sleeve measures 10-12-15-18 cm from where it was divided from the body, increase 6-6-8-8 stitches evenly on round = 40-40-44-44 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 8-8-10-10 cm or to desired length. On the next round increase all purl 2 to purl 3 = 50-50-55-55 stitches. Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Place stitches from the circular needle onto double pointed needles size 4 mm.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

NOSES:
Crochet with red and crochet hook size 3 mm as follows: Work 4 chain stitches and 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, cut and fasten the strand. Work 1 nose for each reindeer (= 11-12-11-12 noses). Tie the noses to each reindeer and fasten the strands.

ASSEMBLY:
Lay the right band over the left band and sew down at the bottom with small stitches. Sew buttons onto left band.

Diagram

= light brown
= red
= off white
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with the background colour in the pattern stripe; on the next round work yarn over twisted to avoid a hole



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