DROPS Baby / 33 / 7

Cable Snooze by DROPS Design

Knitted bag for babies in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked with lace pattern, double moss stitch and hood. Sizes premature – 4 years.

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-066-by
Yarn group B
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Sizes: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
(350) 400-450-500-600 (650) g colour 15, light grey green

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
1 repeat of A.4/A.5 (18 stitches) measures approx. 7 cm in width.
1 repeat of A.6 (32 stitches) measures approx. 12 cm in width.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 80 cm.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, Oak NO 503: (8) 9-10-11-12 (12) items.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
Sizes (<0) 0/1 month: See diagrams A.1, A.3, A.4 and A.5.
Sizes 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years: See diagrams A.2, A.3 and A.6.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

BUTTONHOLE-1 (for bottom of bag):
1 BUTTONHOLE = knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole. The other (4) 4-4-5-5 (5) buttonholes are worked evenly spaced with approx. (4½) 5-6-5½-6 (6) cm between each.

BUTTONHOLE-2 (for band mid front):
Work buttonholes on the right band working from the right side. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit together the 3rd and 4th stitch from the edge, make 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work buttonholes when the band measures (measured from the marker):
(<0) months: 2, 8, 14 and 20 cm
0/1 month: 2, 8, 14, 20 and 26 cm
1/3 months: 2, 7, 13, 18, 24 and 29 cm
6/9 months: 2, 9, 16, 23, 29 and 35 cm
12/18 months: 2, 8, 14, 20, 26, 32 and 38 cm
(2) years: 2, 8, 15, 21, 28, 34 and 41 cm

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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BAG - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle in 2 parts. You cast on stitches in each side for the sleeves. The piece is sewn together on the shoulders/mid top of sleeves and under sleeves. You work a hood to finish.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on (48) 56-68-74-78 (82) stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with circular needle size 4 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work GARTER STITCH – read description above. When the piece measures (2) 2-2-2½-2½ (2½) cm work (4) 4-4-5-5 (5) buttonholes evenly spaced – read BUTTONHOLE-1. Continue with garter stitch until the piece measures (4) 4-4-5-5 (5) cm. The next row is worked as follows from the right side:

SIZES (<0) 0/1 MONTH: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl (2) 6 stitches, A.1 (= 14 stitches which increase to 18 stitches), purl (14) 14 stitches, A.1 (= 14 stitches which increase to 18 stitches), purl (2) 6 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = (56) 64 stitches on the row. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (edge stitches worked in garter stitch).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.3 over the first (2) 6 stitches, A.4 (= 18 stitches), purl (14) 14, A.5 (= 18 stitches), A.3 over the next (2) 6 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Then work as described under ALL SIZES!

SIZES 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 MONTHS (2) YEARS: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl 0-2-4 (6) stitches, work A.2 (= 26 stitches which increase to 32 stitches), purl 14-16-16 (16) stitches, A.2 (= 26 stitches which increase to 32 stitches), purl 0-2-4 (6) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 80-86-90 (94) stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (edge stitches worked in garter stitch).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3 over the first 0-2-4 (6) stitches, A.6 (= 32 stitches), purl 14-16-16 (16) stitches, A.6 (= 32 stitches), A.3 over the next 0-2-4 (6) stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Then work as described under ALL SIZES!

ALL SIZES:
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures (16) 18-22-26-32 (38) cm – adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side, divide the piece mid front and each side is finished separately.
Cut the strand. Place the first (25) 29-37-40-42 (44) stitches, seen from the right side, on 1 thread (= left front piece). There are now (31) 35-43-46-48 (50) stitches left on needle for right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= (31) 35-43-46-48 (50) stitches. Insert 1 marker in the piece - will be used to measure the positions of the buttonholes. Start from the right side and continue pattern as before, but the outermost 6 stitches towards mid front are worked in garter stitch (= band). Work buttonholes on the right band – read BUTTONHOLE-2.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures (30) 37-45-54-63 (72) cm from the cast-on edge cast on stitches for the sleeve at the end of each row from the right side (i.e. towards the side) as follows: Cast on (4) 6-6-7-9 (12) stitches a total of 3 times and then (14) 15-16-17-18 (18) stitches 1 time = (57) 68-77-84-93 (104) stitches on the needle (the new stitches are worked into A.3 as you go). When all stitches are cast on continue with pattern as before, but the outermost 12 stitches on the sleeve are worked in garter stitch (= turn-up).
Continue working until the piece measures (37) 45-52-62-71 (81) cm. You should now have worked approx. 1 cm after the last buttonhole on the band, but adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side.
On the next row (right side) place the outermost (7) 8-9-10-10 (11) stitches towards mid front on 1 thread for neck, but to avoid having to cut the strand, work the stitches before placing them on the thread. Continue the pattern as before. Then cast off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and then 1 stitch (2) 2-2-2-3 (3) times = (46) 56-64-70-78 (88) stitches left on needle for shoulder/sleeve. Continue the pattern as before until the piece measures (39) 47-55-65-75 (85) cm, but adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side. Knit 1 row from the right side and at the same time decrease (4) 4-6-6-6 (6) stitches evenly over A.5/A.6 = (42) 52-58-64-72 (82) stitches on the row. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Cast off with knit from the right side, but make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight. The piece measures approx. (40) 48-56-66-76 (86) cm from the cast-on edge. Work the left front piece as described below.

LEFT FRONT PIECE: 
Place the (25) 29-37-40-42 (44) stitches from the strand back on the circular needle. Start from the right side and continue pattern as before. AT THE SAME TIME, at the end of the first row, knit up 6 new stitches behind the right band, i.e. knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 band stitches = (31) 35-43-46-48 (50) stitches on needle. Continue pattern as before, but the outermost 6 stitches towards mid front are worked in garter stitch (= band – NOTE: do not work buttonholes on left band).
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures (30) 37-45-54-63 (72) cm cast on new stitches for the sleeve at the end of each row from the wrong side (i.e. towards the side) as follows: Cast on (4) 6-6-7-9 (12) stitches a total of 3 times and then (14) 15-16-17-18 (18) stitches 1 time = (57) 68-77-84-93 (104) stitches on the needle (the new stitches are worked into A.3 as you go). When all stitches are cast on continue pattern as before, but the outermost 12 stitches on the sleeve are worked in garter stitch = turn up).
Continue until the piece measures approx. (37) 45-52-62-71 (81) cm - adjust to match the right front piece and so that the next row is worked from the wrong side.
On the next row (wrong side) place the outermost (7) 8-9-10-10 (11) stitches towards mid front on a thread for the neck, but to avoid having to cut the strand, work the stitches before placing them on the thread. Continue the pattern as before. Then cast off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and then 1 stitch (2) 2-2-2-3 (3) times = (46) 56-64-70-78 (88) stitches left on shoulder/sleeve. Continue pattern as before until the piece measures (39) 47-55-65-75 (85) cm, but adjust so that the next row is from the right side. Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease at the same time (4) 4-6-6-6 (6) stitches evenly over A.4/A.6 = (42) 52-58-64-72 (82) stitches on needle. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Cast off with knit from the right side, but make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight. The piece measures approx. (40) 48-56-66-76 (86) cm. Work the back piece as described below.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on (48) 56-68-74-78 (82) stitches and work garter stitch for (4) 4-4-5-5 (5) cm. Work 2 rows stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3 until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. When the piece measures (30) 37-45-54-63 (72) cm cast on new stitches for the sleeves at the end of each row on each side as follows: Cast on (4) 6-6-7-9 (12) stitches a total of 3 times on each side and then (14) 15-16-17-18 (18) stitches 1 time on each side = (100) 122-136-150-168 (190) stitches on the row (the new stitches are worked into A.3 as you go). When all stitches are cast on continue with A.3 as before, but the outermost 12 stitches on both sleeves are worked in garter stitch (= turn up).
When the piece measures (38) 46-54-64-74 (84) cm cast off the middle (12) 14-16-18-20 (22) stitches for neck. Then cast off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck = (42) 52-58-64-72 (82) stitches left on needle for shoulder/sleeve. Continue pattern as before until there is 1 cm left before the piece measures (40) 48-56-66-76 (86) cm, but adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side. Knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Cast off with knit from the right side, but make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder/top of sleeve seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew under-sleeve seams and side seams inside the 1 edge stitch. Turn up the bottom 3 cm on each sleeve and fasten with a couple of small stitches on each side. Sew buttons onto bottom of bag (the buttons are sewn along the middle of the garter stitch edge on the back piece but on the wrong side so that they are buttoned through the buttonholes on the front piece). Sew the remaining buttons to the left band.

HOOD: 
Knit up from the right side approx. 52 to 72 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the threads in front) with circular needle size 4 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Then knit 1 row from the right side, where you increase evenly on row until you have a total of (68) 76-84-88-92 (96) stitches. Work A.3 back and forth over all stitches - AT THE SAME TIME cast on 6 new stitches at the end of the next 2 rows for the folding edge = (80) 88-96-100-104 (108) stitches. Continue with A.3 over all stitches until the hood measures approx. (18) 19-20-21-22 (23) cm. Knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Cast off with knit from the right side. Fold the hood double and sew together at the top, inside the cast-off edge. Fold the 6 outermost stitches on each side to the right side and sew down to the neck with small, neat stitches.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.09.2019
Correction: RIGHT & LEFT FRONT PIECE: .... Knit 1 row from the right side and at the same time decrease (4) 4-6-6-6 (6) stitches evenly over A.5/A.6 = (42) 52-58-64-72 (82) stitches on the row.
Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease at the same time (4) 4-6-6-6 (6) stitches evenly over A.4/A.6 = (42) 52-58-64-72 (82) stitches on needle.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round purl the yarn over to leave a hole
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 33-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (41)

Christel 27.10.2019 - 16:02:

Wieviel Wolle wird für das Alter 3-6 Monate benötigt ?

DROPS Design 27.10.2019 kl. 17:20:

Liebe Cristel. Für das Alter 6 Monate wird 500 gr ( = 10 Knäuel) benötigt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nicole 23.09.2019 - 16:04:

I'm trying in English, since the Dutch aren't answering to my question. In the explanation for the right front, it says one should reduce the amount of stitches devided over pattern at. Up until this point I've been using pattern a6. How and when should I switch to A5? Ps. Elin from Norway has the same question...

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 16:27:

Dear Nicole, sorry for delay, and thanks for the feedback- your question has been forwarded to our design team so that they can check again.

Elin 22.09.2019 - 13:07:

Prøver igjen, siden dere aldri svarte på spørsmålet mitt. Under forklaringen til høyre forstykket står det at man skal felle masker jevnt fordelt over maskene i A.5. Jeg strikker posen i 6/9 mnd og har derfor brukt A.6 hele veien. Når skal man gå over til A.5?

DROPS Design 26.09.2019 kl. 08:59:

Hej Elin, det må være A.6 du strikker, så du tager ind over maskerne i A.6 :)

Nadine Dromas 21.09.2019 - 11:07:

Que veut dire 14 mailles augmentées à 18 ? s'il faut augmenter le nombre de mailles, tous les combien de rangs ? et où : après la maille lisière ? Merci pour ce modèle très joli. Cordialement

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 08:39:

Bonjour Mme Dromas, le 1er rang de A.1 se tricote sur 14 mailles, et on y fait 4 jetés (= augmentations), on aura ainsi 18 mailles dans chaque A.1 à la fin du 1er rang. Bon tricot!

Bleue 21.09.2019 - 11:01:

Hello I started to work on this pattern for 9 months. I cast on 74 st.s. But when I started "Front Piece", after doing garter st.s, the numbers are not added up actually. It seems like the project is all contains 74 st.s only the front side; and not added the back side in the very beginning of the project. I.e 1edge st+P2+A2+P16+A2+P2+1edge st = 74 > this is the front side What about the back side? Should we start the knitting with casting on 2 times 74 st.s ? Thank You

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 08:38:

Dear Bleu, you are working front piece bottom up, after the garter stitch section you will work in pattern as explained, please note that on first row in A.2 worked over 26 stitches, you will increase 6 sts as shown in diagram so that there are 32 stitches in each A.2 and a total of 86 stitches at the end of 1st row in A.2. Continue then with A.3 and A.6 as explained and divide front piece for each side. You will then work back piece separately. Happy knitting!

Sandra 17.09.2019 - 22:27:

I’m at the point in the pattern where it says to (right side) place the outermost 9 stitches towards mid-front on 1 thread for neck. I’m not clear or sure where the outermost 9 stitches would be? If I’m looking at the right side of the word, how many stitches from the garter stitch buttonhole band is it?

DROPS Design 18.09.2019 kl. 07:51:

Hi Sandra, These 9 stitches include the bands and you need to place the outermost 9 stitches on both sides of the row on a thread. Happy knitting!

Nicole 17.09.2019 - 18:35:

Ik ben bij het stuk waar ik steken moet minderen over A.5, maar heb A.5 tot nu toe nog niet gebruikt. Betekent dit dat ik na de naald recht over moet gaan op A.5 over het hele werk (dus meerdere malen achter elkaar)?

DROPS Design 29.09.2019 kl. 18:47:

Dag Nicole,

Er is onlangs een correctie op dit patroon gekomen en dit betreft jouw vraag.

Triin 16.09.2019 - 18:19:

Töö käigust ei loe kuskilt välja, kuidas kududa töö pahemal pool mustrite vahel olevad 14 silmust (suurus 1/3 kuud)? Mustrit kududes on kirjas vaid, et koo 1 rida pahempidi töö pahemal pool. Kudusin ka kõik järgnevad pahempidised pooled selliselt (14 silmust pahempidises koes). Hiljem uuesti pilti vaadates selgus, et pahemal pool peaks need 14 silmust olema hoopiski parem pidi kootud? 🤔 Antud info võiks töö kirjelduses kirjas olla..

Winnie Thomsen 15.09.2019 - 16:52:

Er ved at strikke diagram A6. Er i tvivl om første pind er ret siden, og anden pind er på vrang siden.? slå over og to sammen m. m, strikkes på vrang pind . Er det rigtig ? Vh winnie

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 11:14:

Hei Winnie. Du strikker 1. pinne fra diagram A.6 fra retten og 2. pinne fra vrangen. Når du begynner på den raden diagram A.6 skal strikkes, strikker du først 1 kantmaske i rille, strikk A.3 over de første 0-2-4 (6) maskene, strikk A.6 (= 32 masker), strikk 14-16-16 (16) masker vrang, strikk A.6 (= 32 masker), strikk A.3 over de neste 0-2-4 (6) maskene og avslutt med 1 kantmaske i rille. 2. pinne (fra vrangen), der strikkes det vrang fra vrangen og rett fra vragen alt etter hva diagrammene viser. God Fornøyelse!

Mechie Maas 14.09.2019 - 23:10:

Waar vind ik patroon A3??

DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 08:17:

Dag Mechie Maas,

Telpatroon A.3 staat rechts naast A.1 en boven A.2 (Het is een klein telpatroontje van 2 steken breed en 4 naalden hoog)

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