DROPS Baby / 33 / 6

Catch a Wink by DROPS Design

Knitted bag for babies in DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked in garter stitch with wrap-around, crocheted edges and ties. Sizes premature - 4 years.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-094-by
Yarn group A
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Sizes: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(250) 250-300-300-350 (400) g colour 22, light grey
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50) g colour 02, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 48 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 80 cm for garter stitch.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 MM: for edges and ties.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: (4) 5-6-6-6 (6) items.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of front piece and along neckline):
All decreases are made from the right side! Decrease on the inside of the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Decrease as follows after the 1 edge stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over.
Decrease as follows before the 1 edge stitch: Start 2 stitches before the 1 edge stitch and knit 2 together.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of back piece):
All increases are made from the right side! Increase on the inside of the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over; on the next row knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.

KNITTING TIP:
There are 10 extra stitches cast on at the bottom of each sleeve for turn up. If you do not want these turn ups, cast on only (9) 9-12-12-10 (13) stitches at the bottom of each sleeve instead of (19) 19-22-22-20 (23) stitches. Remember that you will then have 10 fewer stitches on each side when counting the total number of stitches.

BUTTONHOLES (for fold at bottom of bag):
1 buttonhole = cast off 2 stitches, on the next row cast on 2 new stitches over the cast-off stitches. The outermost buttonholes are worked approx. 2 cm in from each side. Then work the other buttonholes with approx. (7) 6-5½-6-7 (8) cm between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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BAG – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle. You start with one of the front pieces, cast on stitches for sleeve and continue to the shoulder. Then work the other front piece in the same way, but reversed. The 2 front pieces are worked together and then work down the back piece to finished length. The back piece is longer than the front pieces and is folded over them – see photo. Extra stitches are cast on for the turn up at the bottom of each sleeve. If you do not want a turn up, take these stitches away from the total number of stitches cast on for the sleeves – read KNITTING TIP!

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on (44) 49-52-60-67 (71) stitches (including 1 edge stitch in the side) with circular needle size 3 mm and light grey. Work GARTER STITCH – read description above (first row = right side and is worked from mid front). 
When the piece measures (6) 6-6-8-8 (8) cm decrease 1 stitch in the side (i.e. at the end of the row from the right side) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every (5) 5½-7-7-5½ (5½) cm a total of (5) 6-6-7-10 (12) times = (39) 43-46-53-57-59 stitches.
NECKLINE:
When the piece measures (29) 36-43-52-61 (70) cm decrease 1 stitch for the neck at the beginning of the row from the right side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of (20) 20-22-26-28 (29) times and then every 4th row (i.e. every other row from the right side) a total of 2 times in all sizes.
SLEEVE:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures (32) 39-47-56-65 (74) cm cast on new stitches for the sleeve at the end of the row from the right side as follows: Cast on (4) 6-7-8-7 (8) stitches a total of (4) 4-4-4-6 (6) times and then (19) 19-22-22-20 (23) stitches 1 time.
After all decreases and increases there are (52) 64-72-79-89 (99) stitches on the row for shoulder/sleeve.
Continue back and forth with garter stitch until the piece measures (40) 48-56-66-76 (86) cm. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the row from the right side (i.e. towards neck). The marker marks mid top of shoulder and the piece will later be folded here. The marker will also be used to measure from. Continue with garter stitch and cast on 2 new stitches at the end of the next 2 rows from the wrong side (i.e. towards the neck) = (56) 68-76-83-93 (103) stitches on the needle and the last row is worked from the wrong side. Place all stitches on a thread or leave them on the needle. Work the left front piece as described below.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on (44) 49-52-60-67 (71) stitches (including 1 edge stitch in the side) with circular needle size 3 mm and light grey. Work garter stitch (first row = right side and is worked from the side).
When the piece measures (6) 6-6-8-8 (8) cm decrease 1 stitch in the side (i.e. at the beginning of each row from the right side) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every (5) 5½-7-7-5½ (5½) cm a total of (5) 6-6-7-10 (12) times = (39) 43-46-53-57-59 stitches.
NECKLINE:
When the piece measures (29) 36-43-52-61 (70) cm decrease 1 stitch for the neck at the end of each row from the right side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of (20) 20-22-26-28 (29) times and then every 4th row (i.e. every other row from the right side) a total of 2 times in all sizes.
SLEEVE:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures (32) 39-47-56-65 (74) cm cast on new stitches for the sleeve at the end of the row from the wrong side as follows: Cast on (4) 6-7-8-7 (8) stitches a total of (4) 4-4-4-6 (6) times and then (19) 19-22-22-20 (23) stitches 1 time.
After all decreases and increases there are (52) 64-72-79-89 (99) stitches on the needle for shoulder/sleeve.
Continue back and forth with garter stitch until the piece measures (40) 48-56-66-76 (86) cm. Insert 1 marker at the end of the row from the right side (i.e. towards neck). The marker marks mid top of shoulder and the piece will later be folded here. The marker will also be used to measure from. Continue with garter stitch and cast on 2 new stitches at the end of the next 2 rows from the right side (i.e. towards neck) = (56) 68-76-83-93 (103) stitches on needle. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Now work the back piece as described below.

BACK PIECE:
From the right side knit over all the (56) 68-76-83-93 (103) stitches on the left front piece, cast on (8) 8-12-12-12 (14) new stitches on the needle for the neck at the back and then knit from the right side over all the (56) 68-76-83-93 (103) stitches from the right front piece = (120) 144-164-178-198 (220) stitches.
THE PIECE S NOW MEASURED FROM THE MARKERS ON SHOULDERS!
Continue back and forth with garter stitch over all stitches. When the piece measures (6) 7-7-8-8 (9) cm from the markers cast off the sleeve stitches as follows: Cast off at the beginning of each row on each side (19) 19-22-22-20 (23) stitches 1 time and then (4) 6-7-8-7 (8) stitches a total of (4) 4-4-4-6 (6) times on each side = (50) 58-64-70-74 (78) stitches left on needle.
Continue working until the piece measures (14) 14-15-16-18 (17) cm from the markers. Now increase 1 stitch on each side - read INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this every (5) 5½-7-7-5½ (5½) cm a total of (5) 6-6-7-10 (12) times on each side = (60) 70-76-84-94 (102) stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures (40) 48-56-66-76 (86) cm from the markers. Now insert 1 new marker in each side of the back piece. These markers mark the folding edge at the bottom of the bag; the piece is now measured from the new markers.
Continue with garter stitch until the piece measures (4) 4-4-6-6 (6) cm from the new markers. On the next row from the right side, work (4) 5-6-6-6 (6) BUTTONHOLES evenly spaced – read description above.
Continue working until the piece measures (6) 6-6-8-8 (8) cm from the new markers (the whole bag measures approx. (46) 54-62-74-84 (94) cm from the markers on the shoulders). Loosely cast off with knit from the right side.

ASSEMBLY: 
Fold the piece double at the markers on the shoulders. Sew the under-sleeve seams and side seams in one go, inside the 1 edge stitch. 

CROCHET EDGE ALONG OPENING OF BAG: 
Start from the wrong side at the bottom left corner of the left front piece and crochet with hook size 2.5 mm and off white along the opening of the bag as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): 1 double crochet in first stitch, * 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 1-2 stitches (try this out; the edge should lie flat), work 1 double crochet in next stitch *, work from *-* up the whole of the left front piece, but at the corner where the decreases for the neck start, work a tie as follows: Work 1 double crochet in the corner, then work chain stitches for approx. 20-25 cm, turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch, then work 1 double crochet in the corner of the front piece again.
Continue the crochet edge around the neck as far as the corner after the decreases for neck on the other front piece. Work a tie in the same way as on the left front piece and then continue down the whole right front piece and finish with 1 slip stitch in the corner, turn the piece. 
ROW 2 (= right side): Work 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around the first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, skip 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet, work 1 double crochet around the next chain stitch *, work from *-* to end of row (make sure that you work over the ties so that they lie underneath) and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at the beginning of the previous row. Cut and fasten the strands.
Work a similar edge along the bottom of the front pieces as follows: Lay the right front piece over the left front piece. Start from the wrong side and crochet along the bottom edge, but where the front pieces overlap work through both layers. Cut and fasten the strands.

CROCHET EDGE ALONG THE TURN-UP AT BOTTOM OF BAG:
Start from the wrong side and work a similar edge along the turn up in the same way as described above. Fold the edge up at the markers. Sew buttons onto front piece.

CROCHET EDGE AROUND SLEEVES:
Start from the wrong side and work as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in first stitch, * 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 1 ridge, work 1 double crochet in next stitch *, work from*-* around the whole sleeve and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at the beginning of the round.
ROUND 2: Work 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around the first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, skip 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet, work 1 double crochet around the next chain stitch *, work from *-* to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. Cut and fasten strands. Work a similar edge around the other sleeve. Turn up the sleeves.

TIES: 
Work 1 tie on each side of the bag equivalent to each corner on the front pieces. The tie on the right side is worked inside the seam (i.e. on wrong side of the piece) and the tie on the left side is worked on the outside of the seam (i.e. on the right side of the piece) – make sure that these ties are at the same height as the other two.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 33-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Monika Newman 18.02.2020 - 01:33:

Looks great

Karen 30.01.2020 - 17:29:

Would love to make this for my niece who is expecting her baby in July. However I think the wool would be too warm in July. Is it possible to make this pattern (Catch a wink) with cotton? Would appreciate your input. Also if you could recommend a cotton yarn I would appreciate it. Thank you. Karen

DROPS Design 31.01.2020 kl. 07:11:

Dear Karen, use our yarn converter to see other alternatives including cotton yarns. Your DROPS store wlil help you - even per mail or telephone - to choose the right yarn. Happy knitting!

Tanja Lehmann 16.09.2019 - 20:34:

Wie nimmt man für die Ärmel zu?

DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 08:54:

Liebe Frau Lehman, dieses Video zeigt, wie man am Ende einer Reihe neue Maschen anschlägt, beim Rückenteil schlagen Sie die Maschen am Ende jeder Reihe (= Hin sowie Rückreihen), bei den Vorderteilen nehmen Sie die Maschen am Ende der Hinreihe (rechtes Vorderteil) oder einer Rückreihe (linkes Voderteil). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Betty Oosterveen 07.09.2019 - 09:16:

Is er misschien een filmpje beschikbaar over het aan elkaar zetten en verder breien van rugpand met voorpanden? Ook een vraag over de laatste regels van de voorpanden. Bij het rechtervoorpand eindig je met het opzetten van twee steken en dan naar hulpdraad, bij het linkervoorpand wordt na het opzetten van de steken nog een pen gebreid. Lees ik dit dan goed? Supermooi patroon trouwens! Blij mee! Vriendelijke groeten, Betty

DROPS Design 08.09.2019 kl. 13:14:

Dag Betty,

Nee, helaas is hier geen video van. Bij het rechter voorpand eindig je aan de hals kant, dus aan de verkeerde kant (waarbij je 2 steken aan de halskant hebt opgezet.) Bij het linker voorpand eindig je ook aan de halskant, maar omdat je deze in spiegelbeeld breit, is dit aan de goede kant. Na de laatste naald van het linker pand, waarbij je dus aan de halskant bent, kun je gelijk verder gaan met het opzetten van steken voor de hals en vervolgens brei je verder met de steken van het rechter voorpand. Nu heb je dus beide voorpanden op de pen.

Anita 02.08.2019 - 05:58:

Ik vind breien met een rondbreinaald niet zo fijn en brei liever heen en weer. Kan ik gewoon hetzelfde steken aantal aanhouden? Met vriendelijke groet Anita

DROPS Design 08.08.2019 kl. 13:58:

Dag Anita,

Vanwege het grote aantal steken wordt aangeraden om met een rondbreinaald te breien, maar je kan deze ook prima met een rechte naald breien. Er wordt gewoon heen en weer gebreid, dus je kunt inderdaad hetzelfde aantal steken aanhouden.

Monika Funaro 22.06.2019 - 16:26:

If you want a picot finish do you start straight at the finished knitting or do you follow first the instructions for the crocheted finish in the description for the model and then add the picot according to the video.

DROPS Design 23.06.2019 kl. 09:11:

Dear Monika, the video shows the last (2nd) row of the finishing edge. You should forst crochet a "base" row, stitched into the knitted edges acording to the description of the first row, and on the second row according to the videos (but please also read the desription). Happy Crafting!

Monika Funaro 21.06.2019 - 14:51:

Om man vill ha en picot kant, gör man det direkt på det stickade eller följer men först instruktionerna för VIRKAD KANT LÄNGS ÖPPNINGEN PÅ PÅSEN och sedan lägga till enl. instruktions videon för picot?

DROPS Design 24.06.2019 kl. 10:35:

Hej. Se svar över. Lycka till!

Shirley 20.06.2019 - 19:31:

I have yet to learn to crochet, could i pick round the edges?

DROPS Design 21.06.2019 kl. 04:25:

Dear Shirley, there is a video-tutorial just below the piture (at the left side of teh page) showing how to crochet the picot edge. Hoewer, if you really don't want to try crochet, you can omit the edge, or replace it with a kintted edge (pick up the stitches and do a picot cast off. Happy crafting!

Abguillerm Marie Hélène 13.06.2019 - 06:11:

Est'il possible d'acheter des catalogues ? Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 13.06.2019 kl. 09:30:

Bonjour Mme Abguillerm, nous n'avons plus de catalogues avec les explications écrites, mais vous pouvez imprimer gratuitement nos modèles à tout instant. Bon tricot!

KUSNIEREK Christiane 29.05.2019 - 09:16:

Bonjour, Je bloque complétement sur le 2° rang de la bordure au crochet: comment faire une maille serrée AUTOUR de la maille en l'air ? et ensuite comment faire le motif répété ? Merci pour votre aide, Cordialement. Ch.K

DROPS Design 29.05.2019 kl. 11:23:

Bonjour Mme Kusnierek, la maille serrée se crochète autour de la maille en l'air du rang précédent (= dans l'arceau formée par la maille en l'air), puis vous faites une bordure picot - cf vidéo, mais la ms sera toujours crochetée autour de la maille en l'air du rang précédent (= dans l'arceau formée par la ml). Bon crochet!

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