DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
Highlight Size:
DROPS 190-35
DROPS design: Pattern w-722
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: 54/56 - 58/60 cm / 21¼"/22" - 22¾"/23½"
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150 g color 16, white
50-50 g color 29, light ice blue
50-50 g color 41, mustard
50-50 g color 102, spray blue

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (yarn group C)" - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 3 mm / C - or size needed to get 20 double crochets x 11 rows = 10 cm / 4" in width and 10 cm / 4" vertically.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first double crochet on round with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in third chain stitch at beginning of round.
Replace first single crochet on round with 1 chain stitch, finish round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round.

COLOR PATTERN:
See diagram A.4. Diagram shows colors in pattern. 1 square = 1 single crochet.

COLOR CHANGE TIP:
When changing color work as follows: Work last single crochet with first color but wait with last pull through, switch to next color and work last pull through with the new color, then work next single crochet. This way there will be a nice transition when changing color.
When working with two colors place strand for the color not worked over stitches from previous round, work around the strand so that it is hidden and follows when working.
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HAT:
Work in the round top down. Begin with a flat, oval top, then work down the hat (crown) before working an edge in multi-colored pattern and then the brim.

TOP OF HAT:
Read CROCHET INFO! Begin at the arrow in the middle of A.1 and work on hook size 3 mm / C with white as follows:
4 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked, work 14 chain stitches, work 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch from hook. You now have a chain stitch row with a loop in each end.
Work next round as follows: 1 slip stitch in the first of the 10 chain stitch on row, 3 chain stitch (= 1 double crochet), 1 double crochet in each of the next 9 chain stitches, work A.2 around loop (begin with 1st row in diagram), work 1 double crochet in each of the 10 chain stitch (i.e. on opposite side of where 10 double crochets were worked first), work A.3 around loop in the other side and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning for round. Continue the pattern like this until 6 rounds have been worked in total. A.1 to A.3 are now done and there are 104 double crochets on round in both sizes. Then work an edge at the top around the hat as explained below.

EGDE AT THE TOP AROUND HAT:
Work 1 round double crochets with 1 double crochet in every double crochet and 4 double crochet in the chain space in the middle of A.2 (work 1 double crochet in both the first and the last chain stitch and 2 double crochets in the middle chain stitch), but on this round work only in front loop of stitch (stitch loop closest to you) = 108 double crochets on round. Insert 1 marker thread between 2 double crochets in the middle of A.2 (= mid front of hat) and move the marker thread upwards when working.
Work 1 more round with double crochets but now work every double crochet through both the double crochet from previous round (through both front and back loop) and in addition through stitch loop visible on the wrong side of piece. This gives a more distinct edge around the top part of hat. Then work the crown as explained below:

CROWN:
Work double crochets in the round with 1 double crochet in every double crochet (work through both stitch loops).
AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round increase 1 double crochet mid front by working 2 double crochets in last double crochet before marker thread. Increase like this 4-8 times in total in S/M: On every other round, and in L/XL: On every round = 112-116 double crochets. NOTE: When increasing work 2 double crochets alternately in first double crochet after marker thread and last double crochet before marker thread.
When piece measures 6-7 cm from edge at the top, work COLOR PATTERN – see explanation above (= 28-29 repetitions of 4 stitches) and read COLOR CHANGE TIP.
NOTE: On 2nd and 7th round work in back loop of stitch from previous round.
AT THE SAME TIME on last round in A.4 increase 0-4 single crochets evenly (increase 1 single crochet by working 2 single crochets in 1 stitch) = 112-120 single crochets.
When A.4 is done, work the brim with white as explained below.

BRIM:
Remember CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 1: * Work 1 double crochet in the first 7-7 double crochets, 2 double crochets in next double crochet *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 126-135 double crochets.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet.
ROUND 3: * Work 1 double crochet in the first 8-8 double crochets, 2 double crochets in next double crochet *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 140-150 double crochets.
ROUND 4: * Work 1 double crochet in the first 9-9 double crochets, 2 double crochets in next double crochet *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 154-165 double crochets.
ROUND 5: Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet.
ROUND 6: Work 1 single crochet in every double crochet = 154-165 single crochets.
Fasten off. Brim measures approx. 5 cm / 2".

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = begin here
symbols = 4 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch made
symbols = 1 slip stitch
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet around ring/chain space
symbols = work around this ring
symbols = 1 single crochet with white
symbols = 1 single crochet with mustard
symbols = 1 single crochet with light ice blue
symbols = 1 single crochet with spray blue
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Eeva wrote:

Hei! Tein hatun kärkiosan ja nyt siirryn yläosan reunukseen. Kun virkkaan seuraavaa pylväskerrosta ottaen koukulle edellisen kerroksen silmukasta etuosan se "raita" jää taakse eli nurjalle puolelle. Onko sen tarkoitus jäädä hatun sisään ja vain tukea reunaa vai virkkaanko silmukan takaosaan jolloin "raita" jää näkyviin? Ystävälllisesti, Eeva

12.06.2024 - 19:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, tämä pylväskerros virkataan silmukoiden etuosaan. Seuraavan kerroksen pylväät virkataan edellisen kerroksen molempiin silmukkakaariin sekä työn nurjalla puolella näkyviin silmukkakaariin. Hatun yläosaan jää näkyvä raita.

18.06.2024 - 13:06

country flag Estrella wrote:

"Trabajar 1 vuelta más de puntos altos, pero ahora trabajar cada punto alto a través del punto alto de la vuelta anterior (a través del bucle del frente y del bucle posterior) y, adicionalmente, a través del bucle del punto visible en el lado revés de la pieza" Qué quiere decir "el bucle del punto visible en el lado revés de la pieza "?

22.10.2023 - 01:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Estrella, tienes que trabajar en el 3º bucle en el punto que se forma por detrás del punto. Debería sobresalir ligeramente como un pliegue por el lado revés de la labor.

23.10.2023 - 00:24

country flag Liisa PF wrote:

Hei! Kysymys 1: Kun lasken piirrosten A1, A2, A3 silmukat yhteen saan 94 pylvässilmukkaa (10+36+48). Ohjeessa lukee, että pitäisi olla 104 pylvästä? Mistä tulee 10 pylvästä lisää? Kysymys 2: Mitä tarkoittaa "työn nurjan puolen silmukkakaari" kohdassa "virkkaa kaikki pylväät sekä edellisen kerroksen pylvääseen että työnnurjan puolen kerroksen silmukkakaareen? Löytyisikö tästä kuvaa / videota?

17.10.2023 - 09:08

country flag Susan wrote:

Hallo, ich hab eine Frage zum Rand oben um den Hut, in der Anleitung heißt es „ Noch 1 Runde mit Stäbchen häkeln, jedoch nun jedes Stäbchen in beide Maschenglieder des Stäbchens der Vor-Runde und zusätzlich in das Maschenglied, das auf der Rückseite der Arbeit sichtbar ist, einstechen.“ In welches Maschenglied auf der Rückseite muss ich noch einstechen? In das hintere Maschenglied von der Vorreihe, bei der ich in das vordere Maschenglied eingestochen habe? Vielen Dank

29.06.2023 - 15:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susan, bei der vorrigen Runde haben Sie nur in das vordere Maschenglied gehäkelt jetzt häkeln Sie 1 Stäbchen in die beiden Maschenglieder von dieser vorrigen Runde (= dh wie "normal") aber auch in das hintere Maschenglied, das bei der vorrigen Runde nicht gehäkelt wurde), so bekommen Sie eine kleine "Biese". Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

29.06.2023 - 15:37

country flag Karin Sellberg wrote:

Hej! Jag virkar sweet fedora by drops design nr 190-35.Nu har jag helt kört fast och behöver er hjälp!Det stårVirka 1 varv till med stolpar, men nu virkas varje stolpe både genom stolpen från föregående varv (genom både främre och bakre maskbågen) och dessutom genom maskledet som är synligt på avigsidan av arbetet. Detta ger en lite markerad kant runt översta delen på hatten. \r\n\r\nHur gör jag och vad är maskledet? Jag får inte ihop det....

18.06.2023 - 11:07

country flag Annika Prisell wrote:

Hej! Kommer detta mönster att bli på en video där du visar hur man virkar denna underbara hatt

25.08.2022 - 20:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Annika. Vi har ingen planer om å lage en video til denne hatten, men noterer ned ditt ønske på vår liste :) Om du er usikker på noen av teknikkene som er brukt i denne hatten er det flere hjelpevideoer som du kan ta en titt på (se under diagrammene). Om du allerede har begynt å hekle denne hatten, men står fast, send oss et spørsmål med beskrivelse av hva du ikke forstår (og str. du hekler), så skal vi hjelpe deg så godt vi kan. mvh DROPS Design

29.08.2022 - 10:30

country flag Porcher wrote:

Bonjour je voudrais faire le modèle drops design 190-35 le chapeau Fedora mais je ne comprends pas le départ ;dessus du chapeau en commençant a la flèche au milieu A1, crocheter 4 ml 1mc dans la 4eme maille en l air ,crocheter 14ml,1mc dans la 4eme ml,mais si je regarde le diamgramme la fleche se trouve au mlieu, tour suiant 1mc dans la 1ere des 10mlalors que au dessus il dise 14ml je ne comprends pas c 'est pour une commande et j aimerais bien le faire merci pour votre réponse nathalie

25.07.2021 - 15:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Porcher, vous commencez par la flèche et le premier rang de mailles en l'air (= à gauche dans A.1) puis vous allez crocheter la chaînette (A.1, où on va faire les brides de chaque côté plus tard) et vous terminez par le rond de mailles en l'air (à droite dans A.1) - votre base est terminée, crochetez maintenant 1 m dans la 1ère des 10 ml (= le v dans le diagramme) puis 3 ml (= 1ère bride) et continuez ainsi: brides en haut de A.1, A.2 autour de la boucle, brides sous la chaînette de A.1, A.3 autour de la boucle, 1 mc dans la 3ème ml de A.1. Bon crochet!

26.07.2021 - 09:01

country flag CRISTINA CARDOZO wrote:

Estoy realizando el sombrero, pregunto que puedo hacer para que me quede mas rigido cuando lo termine? Gracias y saludos cordiales

22.06.2021 - 22:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Cristina, puedes colocar un alambre de acero delgado a lo largo de la orilla del ala. Trabajar 1 punto bajo en cada punto alto en toda la vuelta, trabajando, AL MISMO TIEMPO, alrededor del alambre de acero. Esto se hace para que el sombrero quede más rígido a lo largo de la orilla. Ajustar la longitud del alambre de acuerdo a las medidas deseadas del ala. Retorcer los extremos del alambre de acero juntamente y esconderlos en los puntos. Cortar y asegurar el hilo. Buen trabajo!

23.06.2021 - 12:56

country flag VINCENZA wrote:

Buonasera, vorrei sapere se è possibile realizzare questo modello in raffia. Grazie

15.06.2021 - 20:10

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Vincenza, può realizzarlo con il filato che desidera, tenendo conto della corrispondenza del campione. Buon lavoro!

15.06.2021 - 21:41

country flag Ildikó wrote:

Kedves Drops Design! Ha ki akarom váltani az A.4 jelű mintát és csak színnel horgolom, akkor elég 50 g C fonal vagy többre lesz szükségem? Köszönöm a segítséget.

30.03.2021 - 15:47

DROPS Design answered:

Kedves Ildikó! nagy valószínűséggel elég lesz 50 grammal több fonal, de a felhasznált fonalmennyiség is több tényezőtől függ, pl. attól, mennyire horgol szorosan. Ha biztosra akar menni, 2 plusz gombolyagot szerezzen be, a maradékból mindig lehet valami apróságot készíteni :-). Sikeres kézimunkázást kívánok!

30.03.2021 - 19:50