DROPS / 190 / 35

Sweet Fedora by DROPS Design

Crocheted hat with edge in multi-coloured pattern. Piece is crocheted in DROPS Paris.

DROPS design: Pattern w-722
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: 54/56 - 58/60
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150 g colour 16, white
50-50 g colour 29, light ice blue
50-50 g colour 41, mustard
50-50 g colour 102, spray blue

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 20 treble crochets x 11 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first treble crochet on round with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in third chain stitch at beginning of round.
Replace first double crochet on round with 1 chain stitch, finish round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round.

COLOUR PATTERN:
See diagram A.4. Diagram shows colours in pattern. 1 square = 1 double crochet.

COLOUR CHANGE TIP:
When changing colour work as follows: Work last double crochet with first colour but wait with last pull through, switch to next colour and work last pull through with the new colour, then work next double crochet. This way there will be a nice transition when changing colour.
When working with two colours place strand for the colour not worked over stitches from previous round, work around the strand so that it is hidden and follows when working.
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HAT:
Work in the round top down. Begin with a flat, oval top, then work down the hat (crown) before working an edge in multi-coloured pattern and then the brim.

TOP OF HAT:
Read CROCHET INFO! Begin at the arrow in the middle of A.1 and work on hook size 3 mm with white as follows:
4 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked, work 14 chain stitches, work 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch from hook. You now have a chain stitch row with a loop in each end.
Work next round as follows: 1 slip stitch in the first of the 10 chain stitch on row, 3 chain stitch (= 1 treble crochet), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 9 chain stitches, work A.2 around loop (begin with 1st row in diagram), work 1 treble crochet in each of the 10 chain stitch (i.e. on opposite side of where 10 treble crochets were worked first), work A.3 around loop in the other side and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning for round. Continue the pattern like this until 6 rounds have been worked in total. A.1 to A.3 are now done and there are 104 treble crochets on round in both sizes. Then work an edge at the top around the hat as explained below.

EGDE AT THE TOP AROUND HAT:
Work 1 round treble crochets with 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet and 4 treble crochet in the chain space in the middle of A.2 (work 1 treble crochet in both the first and the last chain stitch and 2 treble crochets in the middle chain stitch), but on this round work only in front loop of stitch (stitch loop closest to you) = 108 treble crochets on round. Insert 1 marker thread between 2 treble crochets in the middle of A.2 (= mid front of hat) and move the marker thread upwards when working.
Work 1 more round with treble crochets but now work every treble crochet through both the treble crochet from previous round (through both front and back loop) and in addition through stitch loop visible on the wrong side of piece. This gives a more distinct edge around the top part of hat. Then work the crown as explained below:

CROWN:
Work treble crochets in the round with 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet (work through both stitch loops).
AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round increase 1 treble crochet mid front by working 2 treble crochets in last treble crochet before marker thread. Increase like this 4-8 times in total in S/M: On every other round, and in L/XL: On every round = 112-116 treble crochets. NOTE: When increasing work 2 treble crochets alternately in first treble crochet after marker thread and last treble crochet before marker thread.
When piece measures 6-7 cm from edge at the top, work COLOUR PATTERN – see explanation above (= 28-29 repetitions of 4 stitches) and read COLOUR CHANGE TIP.
NOTE: On 2nd and 7th round work in back loop of stitch from previous round.
AT THE SAME TIME on last round in A.4 increase 0-4 double crochets evenly (increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets in 1 stitch) = 112-120 double crochets.
When A.4 is done, work the brim with white as explained below.

BRIM:
Remember CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 1: * Work 1 treble crochet in the first 7-7 treble crochets, 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 126-135 treble crochets.
ROUND 2: Work 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet.
ROUND 3: * Work 1 treble crochet in the first 8-8 treble crochets, 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 140-150 treble crochets.
ROUND 4: * Work 1 treble crochet in the first 9-9 treble crochets, 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 154-165 treble crochets.
ROUND 5: Work 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet.
ROUND 6: Work 1 double crochet in every treble crochet = 154-165 double crochets.
Fasten off. Brim measures approx. 5 cm.

Diagram

= 1 chain stitch
= begin here
= 4 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch made
= 1 slip stitch
= treble crochet in stitch
= treble crochet around ring/chain space
= work around this ring
= 1 double crochet with white
= 1 double crochet with mustard
= 1 double crochet with light ice blue
= 1 double crochet with spray blue



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 190-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Anna Paola Majer 15.07.2020 - 22:33:

Buonasera, ho ultimato lo schema A1,2,3, facendo un bordo, che ha piegato il lavoro in dentro; ora però cosa significa "Lavorare 1 altro giro di maglie alte ma lavorare ora tutte le maglie alte puntando l’uncinetto nelle maglie del giro precedente (quindi attraverso il filo davanti e quello dietro delle maglie) e anche attraverso il filo visibile sul rovescio del lavoro"? Devo fare un altro bordo? Grazie!

DROPS Design 16.07.2020 kl. 15:56:

Buongiorno Anna Paola. Al giro precedente, ha lavorato puntando l'uncinetto attraverso 1 solo filo della maglia; questo dovrebbe averle lasciato un filo visibile. Al giro che sta lavorando, deve puntare l'uncinetto attraverso i due fili della maglia ma anche attraverso questo filo visibile. Si forma così quel bordo più marcato che delimita la parte sopra del cappello. Buon lavoro!

Sabine Motti 18.06.2020 - 20:44:

Liebes Drops-Team, das Häkeln des Hutes hat viel Freude bereitet. Er ist tatsächlich relativ fest und die Krempe wölbt sich wie selbstverständlich nach oben. Dankeschön für diese Anleitung. :-)

Sabine Motti 17.06.2020 - 17:28:

Liebes Drops-Team! Für die Fertigung der KREMPE heißt es: "1. RUNDE: * je 1 Stäbchen in die 7-7 ersten Stäbchen, 2 Stäbchen in das nächste Stäbchen " - doch zuvor wurden gar keine Stäbchen gehäkelt, sondern feste Maschen. Oder habe ich etwas übersehen? Dank vorab!

DROPS Design 18.06.2020 kl. 09:24:

Liebe Frau Motti, Sie sind ja recht, Anleitug wird korrigiert, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß bei häkeln!

Laura 20.05.2020 - 21:13:

4 puntos altos en el arco en el centro de A.2 (trabajar 1 punto alto en el primer y en el último punto de cadena y 2 puntos altos en el punto de cadena central). NO ENTIENDO DÓNDE VAN LOS 4 PUNTOS ALTOS.NO SE A Q SE REFIERE EL PRIMER Y ÚLTIMO PUNTO CADENA.O SI EN EL CENTRO DE LOS 6 PUNTOS DE AUMENTO... Y LO DEL BUCLE SI ES EN LA "V" QUE FORMA EL PUNTO POR ARRIBA?

Martine De Jager 17.04.2020 - 15:56:

Ik heb een vraag over dit patroon van Sweet Fedora 190/35. Ik heb nu al meerdere malen de rand geprobeerd te haken, maar het lukt me niet. Ik snap het niet helemaal. Een stokje door de voorste lus van de vorige toer snap ik, maar dan? Nog een stokje door beide lussen én de lus van de vorige toer? Van alles geprobeerd. Kunt u het mij laten zien? Met vriendelijke groeten, Martine de Jager

Giusta 03.09.2019 - 17:26:

Ho fatto 3 cappelli per mia figlia e i miei nipotini poi irrigiditi con la colla vinilica bellissimi

Bénédicte 17.06.2019 - 15:42:

Bonjour, faut-il utiliser un double fil pour ce chapeau? J'ai commencé avec un seul fil mais je trouve que le résultat est beaucoup trop mou... Merci pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 17.06.2019 kl. 15:46:

Bonjour Bénédicte, on ne crochète qu'avec un seul fil Paris, mais vous devez avoir le bon échantillon soit 20 brides x 11 rangs = 10 x 10 cm - ajustez la taille du crochet si besoin, et pensez surtout à bien conserver la même tension lors de la réalisation du chapeau. Bon crochet!

Aleta 08.06.2019 - 18:48:

Grazie per la vostra risposta! Un'ultima domanda: nel diagramma A.2, tra la terza e la quarta maglia alta intorno all'anello di catenelle, devo fare 3 catenelle? Grazie e complimenti per i vostri video tutorial.

DROPS Design 08.06.2019 kl. 21:27:

Buongiorno Aleta. Sì ci sono 3 catenelle tra la terza e la quarta maglia alta. Buon lavoro!

Aleta 08.06.2019 - 08:55:

Buongiorno, come mai nel diagramma A.2 le maglie alte da lavorare intorno all'anello di catenelle sono 6 e invece nel diagramma A.3 sono 8? Grazie mille

DROPS Design 08.06.2019 kl. 09:45:

Buongiorno Aleta. La parte dove lavora il diagramma A.2 è quella del davanti, mentre quella del diagramma A.3 è quella del dietro: la parte dietro deve essere più ampia di quella del davanti e quindi necessita di un numero maggiore di maglie. Buon lavoro!

Yvonne 17.05.2019 - 19:15:

Was bedeutet bei der Krempe "je 1 Stäbchen in die 7-7 ersten Stäbchen" die 7-7? Etwa je 1 Stäbchen in die 7 ersten Stäbchen, etc? Vielen Dank im vorraus

DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 09:07:

Liebe Yvonne, die Mütze kommt in 2 Größe deshalb wird es 2 Mal hier "7" geschrieben, in beiden Größen werden Sie je 1 Stäbchen in die 7 ersten Stäbchen häkeln, aber am Ende der Runde haben Sie entweder 126 Stb (=1. Größe) oder 135 Stäbchen (= 2. Größe). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

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