DROPS Baby / 31 / 18

Ready, Set, Go by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Jumper with stripes and raglan for baby, knitted top down. Hat with stripes and ear flaps and socks for baby. Size premature - 4 years Set is knitted in DROPS Alpaca.

DROPS design: Pattern z-099-by
Yarn group A
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET USE:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Head circumference: 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm.
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-200-200 (200-250) g colour 618, light beige
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 506, dark grey
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 101, white
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 3900, tomato

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm - for tie.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS Oak NO 503: 4 pieces for all sizes
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JUMPER:
Size: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(100) 100-100-100-150 (150-150) g colour 618, light beige
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 506, dark grey
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 101, white
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 3900, tomato

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS Oak NO 503: 4 pieces for all sizes
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HAT:
Size: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Head circumference: (28/32) 34/38 - 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 618, light beige
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 506, dark grey
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 101, white
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 3900, tomato

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm - for tie.
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SOCKS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 618, light beige

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth - applies to jumper and hat):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (applies to jumper):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase with yarn over, purl yarn over twisted on next row to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

DECREASE TIP (applies to jumper):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sock):
Decrease 1 stitch before 1 purl stitch as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before 1 purl stitch, knit 2 together.
Decrease 1 stitch after 1 purl stitch as follows: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.

TOE DECREASE (applies to sock):
Decrease 3 stitches before marker as follows: Knit 2 together, knit 1.
Decrease as follows after marker: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over. 
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JUMPER:
Worked top down. First work the yoke back and forth, then divide the piece into body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, then work sleeves on double pointed needles. Pick up stitches into a band on each side of raglan opening and work a neck edge back and forth at the end.

YOKE:
Cast on (88) 88-92-92-96 (100-100) stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3 mm with light beige. Now work back and forth from one raglan line (i.e. between front piece and left sleeve).
Work as follows from right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert 1st marker in this stitch, (16) 16-14-14-14 (16-14) stitches in stocking stitch and increase (2) 4-4-6-6 (6-6) stitches evenly (= left sleeve) – read INCREASE TIP, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert 2nd marker in this stitch, (24) 24-28-28-30 (30-32) stitches in stocking stitch, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert 3rd marker in this stitch (= back piece), (20) 20-18-18-18 (20-18) stitches in stocking stitch and increase (2) 4-4-6-6 (6-6) stitches evenly (= right sleeve), work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert 4th marker in this stitch, work (21) 21-25-25-27 (27-29) stitches in stocking stitch, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert 5th marker in this stitch and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = (92) 96-100-104-108 (112-112) stitches.
Purl 1 row from wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of piece.
On next row from right side increase for raglan as follows: Increase 1 stitch after 1st marker, 1 stitch on each side of 2nd, 3rd and 4th marker (= 2 stitches increased in total on each side of these markers) and increase 1 stitch before 5th marker (= 8 stitches increased on every increase round). Increase every other row (2) 4-8-9-13 (14-20) times in total, then every row (4) 4-3-3-2 (2-0) times in total (= (6) 8-11-12-15 (16-20) times in total) = (140) 160-188-200-228 (240-272) stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures (7) 8-9-10-11 (12-13) cm, cast on 2 new stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = (144) 164-192-204-232 (244-276) stitches. Now work piece in the round in stocking stitch (round begins in transition between left sleeve and front piece) until piece measures (8) 9-10-11-12 (13-14) cm. Now work body and sleeves as follows: Slip the first (34) 40-44-48-54 (58-64) stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve (= left sleeve), cast on 8 stitches under sleeve, knit (38) 42-52-54-62 (64-74), slip the next (34) 40-44-48-54 (58-64) stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve (= right sleeve), cast on 8 stitches under sleeve, knit the last (38) 42-52-54-62 (64-74) stitches.

BODY:
= (92) 100-120-124-140 (144-164) stitches. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue in the round in stocking stitch as follows: When piece measures (6) 9-12-13-14 (17-20) cm, work A.1. When A.1 has been worked 1 time, purl next round (= folding edge). Knit 12 rounds with light beige. Cast off by knitting.

SLEEVE:
Slip the (34) 40-44-48-54 (58-64) stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm. Pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under sleeve = (42) 48-52-56-62 (66-72) stitches. Insert 1 marker mid under sleeve. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 2 cm from where piece was divided from body, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker - read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every (2nd) 4th-4th-4th-4th (4th-5th) row (3) 5-7-9-11 (12-14) times in total = (36) 38-38-38-40 (42-44) stitches. When piece measures (4) 8-10-12-15 (18-23) cm work A.2 (the last 12 rows of A.2 is folded in and sewn to sleeve later). Cast off with light beige. Work the other sleeve the same way.

RAGLAN OPENING:
Now pick up 1 band inside 1 edge stitch on front piece back and forth as follows: Pick up (17) 19-22-24-26 (29-31) stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with light beige from right side. Work A.3 (work first row from wrong side, the last 10 rows of A.3 is folded in and sewn to jumper from wrong side). AT THE SAME TIME on 6th row (= from right side) decrease for 3 buttonholes evenly by knitting 2 stitches together and make 1 yarn over (make first buttonhole approx. 2 cm down from neck, distribute the 2 remaining buttonholes evenly). Decrease for buttonhole the same way on 16th row. Remember that the buttonholes must be on top of each other later when the edge is folded, to button buttons through both holes.
Now pick up 1 band inside 1 edge stitch on left sleeve back and forth as follows: Pick up (17) 19-22-24-26 (29-31) stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with light beige from right side. Work 10 rows in stocking stitch (work first row from wrong side), cast off by knitting from wrong side.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold edge on body up and sew it nicely to body from wrong side with light beige.
Fold edge on sleeves up and sew them nicely to sleeve from wrong side with light beige.
Fold band on front piece double, place band on left sleeve under it and sew it to the bottom where 2 stitches were cast on with light beige.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth. Begin on band on front piece and pick up approx. 70-97 stitches from right side around the entire neck to band on sleeve (pick up stitches through both layers on band on front piece). Work A.3 over all stitches (1st row = wrong side) AT THE SAME TIME on 6th row decrease for 1 buttonhole, by knitting 4th and 5th stitch together and make 1 yarn over, decrease for buttonhole the same way on 16th row.
When A.3 has been worked, cast off with light beige. Fold edge double and sew nicely to where stitches were picked up for neck with light beige from wrong side. Sew opening in each side on neck together in outermost loop of edge stitch with light beige from right side. Sew the buttons on to neck edge and band on left sleeve.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. 
Cast on (70) 82-92-96-98 (108-112) stitches on double pointed needles size 3 mm with light beige. Work 5 cm in stocking stitch. Purl 1 round (= folding edge). Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work A.4 over all stitches. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with light beige. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures (9) 8-9-10-10 (10-11) cm decrease (4) 4-2-0-2 (0-4) stitches evenly = (66) 78-90-96-96 (108-108) stitches. Then insert 6 markers (11) 13-15-16-16 (18-18) stitches apart. Approx. (5) 6-6-6-6 (7-7) cm remain on hat. Now decrease 1 stitch after every marker by knitting 2 stitches together every other round (7) 8-6-5-5 (6-6) times in total, then every round (2) 3-7-9-9 (10-10) times in total = 12 stitches. Work all stitches together 2 by 2 = 6 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches and tighten together. The entire hat measures approx. (19) 19-20-21-21 (22-23) cm (including folding edge).
Fold edge of hat up and sew it nicely from wrong side with light beige.

1ST EAR FLAP:
Hold hat with tip towards you and pick up on 1 double pointed needle size 3 mm with light beige (18) 22-24-24-24 (28-30) stitches at the bottom along one side - pick up 1 stitch in every stitch. Work in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above - back and forth over stitches on needle - AT THE SAME TIME
decrease 1 stitch in each side by knitting the 2 next to last stitches together, decrease every 4th row (5) 3-2-4-6 (5-6) times and then every other row (2) 6-8-6-4 (7-7) times = 4 stitches, work these stitches together 2 by 2 and pass the 2 remaining stitches over each other, cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch. 
Flap measures approx. (5) 5-5-6-6½ (7-8) cm. 

2ND EAR FLAP: 
Pick up stitches (22) 26-28-32-34 (34-34) stitches from the first ear flap (these (22) 26-28-32-34 (34-34) stitches = mid front on hat). Pick up on 1 double pointed needle size 3 mm with light beige 1 stitch in each of the next (18) 22-24-24-24 (28-30) stitches. There are now (12) 12-16-16-16 (18-18) stitches between ear flaps at the back.
Work this ear flap the same way as the first. 

TIES: 
Crochet with light beige on hook size 3 mm as follows: Work 1 slip stitch through tip on ear flap, work chain stitches for approx. 20-30 cm, turn piece and work 1 slip stitch in every chain stitch, finish with 1 slip stitch in the tip on ear flap. Fasten off. Work 1 tie in each of the ear flaps.
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SOCK: 
Cast on 40-44-48 (52-56) stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with light beige. Work in the round in rib (= knit 2/purl 2) until piece measures 5-6-7 (9-10) cm.
Slip the last stitch worked on to same needle as the first 19-19-23 (23-27) stitches on round = 20-20-24 (24-28) stitches on needle for heel.
Slip the other 20-24-24 (28-28) stitches (= on top of foot) on 1 stitch holder - rib on top of foot will now start and end with 1 purl stitch.
Work in stocking stitch back and forth over heel stitches for 3-3-4 (4-4) cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Insert 1 marker in the middle of these stitches (= 10-12-12 (14-14) stitches on each side of marker). On next row from right side decrease as follows:
ROW 1 (= from right side): Knit until 4 stitches remain before marker, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 4 stitches, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit the rest of row = 18-18-22 (22-26) stitches.
ROW 2 (= from wrong side): Purl all stitches.
ROW 3: Knit until 3 stitches remain before marker, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 2 stitches, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit the rest of row = 16-16-20 (20-24) stitches. Cast off the remaining stitches and sew together in outermost loop of edge stitch (= mid under foot).
Then pick up 24-24-28 (28-32) stitches in outermost loop of edge stitch over heel. Slip stitches from stitch holder back on needle = 44-48-52 (56-60) stitches. Continue in the round. NOTE! Work rib over the 20-24-24 (28-28) stitches on top of foot and stocking stitch over the 24-24-28 (28-32) stitches under foot. AT THE SAME TIME on every other round decrease 1 stitch on each side of rib on top of foot - read DECREASE TIP-1! Decrease like this 2 times in total = 40-44-48 (52-56) stitches.
When sock measures 7½-8½-9 (11-12) cm from back on heel (approx. 2½-2½-3 (3-4) cm remain until finished measurements), distribute stitches so that there are 20-22-24 (26-28) stitches both on top of foot and under foot. Insert 1 marker in each side. Work in stocking stitch in the round over all stitches - while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 1 stitch on each side of every marker - read TOE DECREASE!
Decrease like this every other round 5-5-6 (6-7) times in total = 20-24-24 (28-28) stitches. Work all stitches together 2 by 2 = 10-12-12 (14-14) stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Sock measures approx. 10-11-12 (14-16) cm. Work the other sock the same way.

Diagram

= knit with tomato
= knit with light beige
= knit with dark grey
= knit with white
= purl from right side and knit from wrong side with light beige (= folding edge)
= knitting direction


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 31-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Rina Blijdorp 29.08.2019 - 06:45:

Ik vind het jammer dat de meeraderig en voor de raglan halverwege al eindigen. Zou het niet mooier zijn om de raglan tot de onderkant van de mouw door te laten lopen? Dat zou je kunnen bereiken door elke derde naald te meerderen misschien? Ik vraag me af of ik het niet beter opnieuw kan baan doen ....

FranceDuchamp 07.08.2019 - 13:06:

Excusez moi mais votre réponse ne correspond pas à la question.dans la plus petite taille pour le pull on met 16 mailles pour manche gauche et 20 pour manche droite!

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 15:54:

Bonjour FranceDuchamp, d'un côté on va avoir la bordure du raglan, donc on aura moins de mailles pour la manche gauche que pour la manche droite où il n'y a pas de bordure à tricoter ensuite. Bon tricot!

France Duchamp 07.08.2019 - 11:03:

Bonjour,je ne comprends pas pourquoi ni comment le nombre de mailles est différent pour chaque manche au premier rang et se trouve identique dans la suite merci pour votre patience

DROPS Design 07.08.2019 kl. 12:43:

Bonjour Mme Duchamp, le nombre de mailles est différent pour chaque taille et a été calculé selon la taille et l'aisance nécessaire telle que la styliste l'a souhaité pour ce modèle. Bon tricot!

Barbara 28.06.2019 - 00:14:

Hallo, wenn ich bei den Raglanzunahmen zunächst in jeder 2. Reihe, dann nach Anweisung in jeder Reihe zunehme, dann habe ich in Gr. 0/1 die 160 Maschen bereits in der Höhe von 4cm statt 8 cm. Was stimmt denn da nicht?

DROPS Design 24.09.2019 kl. 14:25:

Liebe Barbara, dann stricken Sie ohne Zunahme aber wie zuvor bis die 8 cm. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Filiz 18.05.2019 - 16:33:

Hallo, Ich verstehe nicht was '8 M unter dem Arm anschlagen' bedeutet. Und auch die Passage mit 'zusätzlich je 1 M aus den unter dem Arm angeschlagenen Maschen auffassen' ist mir unklar. Wie komme ich wenn ich eine M aufnehme dann auf 52 (die angegebene Maschenanzahl für die 3. Größe)? Ich hoffe sie können mir helfen. Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 10:28:

Liebe Frau Filiz, dieses Video zeigt wie man die Maschen der Ärmel stilllegt und wie man die neuen Maschen unter dem Arm anschlägt (ab ca 07:00) - dann wie man die Maschen aufnimt und die Ärmel strickt (ab ca 9:35). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ella 20.04.2019 - 19:36:

Hallo! Ich habe verstehe leider die Ranlanzunahmen in der Passe nicht. Ich habe bei Gr. 56 100M und beginne dann je 8M in der Hinreihe zuzunehmen. Wie oft mache ich denn das? Und wann genau beginne ich damit in jeder Reihe 3M zuzunehmen? Wie ich es auch hin und her rechne ich komme am Ende nicht auf die 188M

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 12:49:

Liebe Ella, bei der 3. Größe nehmen Sie für den Raglan 8 Mal in jeder Hinreihe dann 3 Mal in jeder Reihe (= Hin sowie Rückreihe) = 11 Mal insgesamt x 8 Zunahmen = 88 Zunahmen + 88 = 188 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Věra Linhartová 01.03.2019 - 08:07:

Dobrý den, bude tento postup přeložen také do českého jazyka? Děkuji za odpověď.

Teresa 13.09.2018 - 22:11:

Ich habe eine Frage zu den Zunahmen im Passe. Erfolgen diese tatsächlich in jeder 2.Reihe (also in jeder Hinreihe) oder in jeder 2. Hinrunde (und somit insgesamt in jeder 4.Reihe)? Daran anschließend stellt sich mir nämlich dann die Frage, ob die Zunahmen in"jeder" Reihe auch in Rückrunden erfolgen? Vielen Dank für eine Antwort.

DROPS Design 14.09.2018 kl. 08:25:

Liebe Teresa, wenn Sie in jeder 2. Reihe zunehmen werden Sie nur bei jeder Hinreihe zunehmen. Wenn Sie danach in jeder Reihe zunehmen, werden Sie bei jeder Hin- sowie bei jeder Rückreihe zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anika Krupke 02.07.2018 - 14:29:

Hallo, ich arbeite am Pullover. Ich möchte gerne wissen, ob ich es richtig verstanden habe, dass ich die letzten Zunahmen in der Passe (in jeder Reihe insgesamt 2 Maschen zunehmen Größe 80/86) in Hin- und Rückreihe aufnehme? In Zunahmehilfe steht ja das nur in Hinreihen zugenommen wird, dann würde aber die Maschenprobe nicht mehr stimmen. Danke!

DROPS Design 02.07.2018 kl. 16:29:

Liebe Frau Krupke, in der Größe 80/86 stricken Sie in Reihen bis die Arbeit 12 cm mist, dann (2 neuen Maschen wurden kurz davor auf beiden Seiten angeschlagen) stricken Sie in der Runde = alle Raglanzunahmen werden dann von der Vorderseite = Hinreihen gearbeitet. Viel Spaß beim stricknen!

Mari 07.04.2018 - 12:18:

Hvor mange masker trenger man på den bredeste delen av hovedstykket til størrelse 10 måneder?

DROPS Design 13.04.2018 kl. 10:41:

Hej Mari, vælger du hovedvidde 44/46 cm som modsvarer ca 12/18 mnd, skal du legge opp 98 masker. God fornøjelse!

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