DROPS / 186 / 33

Kyliena by DROPS Design

Crocheted jacket with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-101
Yarn group C
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Sizes: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-400-450 g color 10, fog

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 6 MM / J/10 – or the size needed to get 12 double crochets and 7 rows on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height, or 1 repeat of A.2 measuring 8 cm / 3 1/8'' in width (A.X = approx. 5 cm / 2'' in height).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

CROCHET INFO:
The first double crochet at the beginning of the row/round is replaced by 3 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row/round. The first single crochet at the beginning of a row is replaced by 1 chain stitch.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 double crochet by working the next 2 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 stitches on hook), then work the next double crochet but when working the last pull through, pull the strand through all 3 stitches on the hook (= 1 double crochet decreased).
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JACKET:
The piece is worked in 2 parts which are sewn together mid back. Work back and forth, from mid back and out to the sides. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down.

LEFT PIECE:
Work 105-116-127 chain stitches with hook size 6 mm / J/10 and Air. Turn and work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5-4-3 chain stitches, * skip the next chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* to end of row = 87-96-105 double crochets. READ CROCHET INFO! Then work as follows – from the wrong side: A.3 (= 3 double crochets), A.2 (= 9 double crochets) over the next 81-90-99 double crochets (= 9-10-11 repeats), finish with A.1 (= 3 double crochets). On the next row (= from the right side) work in reverse, i.e. work A.1, A.2 and finish with A.3. When A.1 to A.3 has been worked 1 time in height, repeat rows 1 - 4 upwards (= A.X). Continue until the piece measures approx. 18-20-22 cm / 7''-8''-8¾''; adjust to after a complete repeat of A.X. Then work as follows – from the right side:

So that the jacket is firmer over the armhole, you need to work an extra row of double crochets just over the first stitches on the jacket (= collar). Work A.1 + 18 double crochets over the first 2 repeats of A.2 (see A.4 for how to work double crochets over A.2) = 21 double crochets. Cut the strand and start from the beginning of the row again – from the right side and from the first row in A.X.

Work A.1, work A.5 over the next 18 double crochets (= 2 repeats of 9 stitches), work 18-27-27 chain stitches and skip the next 2-3-3 repeats of A.2, work to end of row as before (i.e. 5-5-6 repeats of A.2 and A.3). On the next row (= row 2 in A.X) work 2-3-3 repeats of A.2 around the 18-27-27 new chain stitches. When A.5 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.2 as before over these stitches. Continue until the piece measures approx. 61-66-71 cm / 24"-26"-28''; adjust to after a complete repeat of A.X. Then work as follows: A.1, double crochets over the 9-10-11 repeats of A.2 (see A.4), finish with A.3 = 87-96-105 double crochets. Work a total of 2 rows of double crochets as shown in A.4, cut and fasten the strand.

RIGHT PIECE:
Work 105-116-127 chain stitches with hook size 6 mm / J/10 and Air. Turn and work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5-4-3 chain stitches, * skip the next chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* to end of row = 87-96-105 double crochets. Then work as follows - from the wrong side: A.3 (= 3 double crochets), A.2 over the next 81-90-99 double crochets (= 9-10-11 repeats), finish with A.1 (= 3 double crochets). When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time in height, repeat rows 1 to 4 upwards (= A.X). Continue until the piece measures approx. 18-20-22 cm / 7''-8''-8¾''; adjust to after a complete repeat of A.X. Then work as follows – from the right side:

So that the jacket is firmer over the armhole, you need to work an extra row of double crochets just over the last stitches on the jacket (= collar - this will be at the top of the jacket when the parts are sewn together). Cut the strand. Skip A.1 and the first 7-8-9 repeats of A.2, work 18 double crochets over the last 2 repeats of A.2 and finish with A.3 (see A.4 for how to work double crochets over A.2) = 21 double crochets. Cut the strand and start from the beginning of the row again – from the right side and the first row in A.X.

Work A.1, work the first 5-5-6 repeats of A.2, work 18-27-27 chain stitches and skip the next 2-3-3 repeats of A.2, work A.5 over the next 18 double crochets, finish with A.3. On the next row (= row 2 in A.X) work 2-3-3 repeats of A.2 around the 18-27-27 new chain stitches. When A.5 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.2 as before over these stitches. Continue until the piece measures approx. 61-66-71 cm / 24"-26"-28''; adjust to after a complete repeat of A.X. Then work as follows: A.1, A.4 over the 9-10-11 repeats of A.2, finish with A.3 = 87-96-105 double crochets. Work a total of 2 rows of double crochets as shown in A.4, cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the jacket together mid back.

SLEEVES:
Work the sleeve in the round as follows – start mid under the sleeve: 1 single crochet, *4 chain stitches, skip 2 cm / 3/4'', 1 single crochet, *, repeat from *-* around the whole armhole, finish with a slip stitch in the first single crochet = approx. 12-18-18 chain-spaces. Then work 45-64-64 double crochets evenly spaced around the chain-spaces (work 3 or 4 double crochets around each space). Then work as follows – from mid under sleeve:
A.1 (=double crochets) over the first 9-14-14 double crochets, A.2 over the next 27-36-36 double crochets, A.3 (=double crochets) over the last 9-14-14 double crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET INFO! Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve; the piece is now measured from here. Continue this pattern. When the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' decrease 1 double crochet on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 5-3½-3½ cm / 2"-1 1/4"-1 1/4'' a total of 9-14-14 times. After all the decreases there are 27-36-36 double crochets left on the round, now work double crochets over all stitches (see A.4). Continue until the piece measures 55-55-55 cm / 21½"-21½"-21½'', cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 double crochet
= 1 chain stitch
= 1 single crochet in stitch
= Work 2 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet in the next double crochet, but wait with the last pull through, work 1 more double crochet in the same double crochet, at the last pull through, pull the strand through all loops on the hook.
= Work 2 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet around the middle chain stitch in the double crochet group, but wait with the last pull through, work 1 more double crochet around the same chain stitch, at last pull through, pull the strand through all loops on the hook.
= Work a double crochet group around the chain-space as follows: Work 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet around the same chain-space.
= 1 single crochet around the chain-space.
= Work a double crochet group between 2 double crochets as follows: Work 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet between 2 double crochets
= this row has already been worked
= crochet direction



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-33) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Anne 11.04.2019 - 12:28:

Het antwoord begrijp ik niet. Na een hele herhaling van A.x ga je toch verder met de eerste toer A.1? En de eerste toer A.1 begint met 3 vasten. Waar komen die 3 stokjes dan vandaan?

DROPS Design 11.04.2019 kl. 15:00:

Dag Anne,

A.x begint met 3 vasten, maar A.1 begint met 3 stokjes. Nadat je 18-20-22 cm hebt gehaakt, haak je A.1 + 18 stokjes over de eerste 2 herhalingen van A.2. (= een extra toer van stokjes over alleen de eerste steken op het vest om te zorgen dat het vest wat steviger is bij het armsgat).

Blandine 07.04.2019 - 14:59:

Je ne comprends pas ce qu'il faut faire lorsque l'ouvrage mesure 22 cm pour le côté gauche. Quand vous dites pour que les emmanchures soient plus fermés on crocheté un rang de brides supplémentaires pour le col. Je suis complètement perdue

DROPS Design 08.04.2019 kl. 09:46:

Bonjour Blandine, on va crocheter un rang de brides sur les premières mailles pour que les épaules aient un peu plus de tenue: crochetez A.1 + 18 brides (21 brides au total), coupez le fil et crochetez comme avant en reprenant au début du rang. Bon crochet!

Anne 26.03.2019 - 11:09:

Na 18-20-22 cm: Haak A.1 + 18 stokjes = 21 stokjes. Maar de eerste toer A.1 begint met 3 vasten, dus A.1 + 18 stokjes = 3 vasten en 18 stokjes. Of is het de bedoeling om de 3 vasten van de eerste toer A.1 te vervangen door 3 stokjes?

DROPS Design 28.03.2019 kl. 13:12:

Dag Anne,

Het werk moet ongeveer 18-20-22 cm meten, maar dit moet je aanpassen tot na een hele herhaling van A.x. Op die manier heb je 3 stokjes aan het begin.

Anita Dirx 22.11.2018 - 15:04:

Sorry ik heb mijn vraag verkeerd gesteld. Ik begrijp niet wat er tussen a2 en A3 komt. Want zoals ik het begrijp krijg ik dan 12 stokjes achter elkaar.

DROPS Design 25.11.2018 kl. 16:19:

Dag Anita,

Je hoeft niets tussen A.2 en A.3 te haken. De eerste toer in het telpatroon, dus de toer met het sterretje hoef je overigens niet te haken, deze toer geeft aan hoe je de volgende toer in de steken haakt. A.2 heeft (herhalingen van) 9 steken en gelijk daar achteraan haak je de 3 stokjes van A.3.

Anita Dirx 21.11.2018 - 17:26:

Als ik A2 en erna A3 moet haken moet ik dan in principe 9 stokjes achter elkaar haken of zie ik dit fout ?

DROPS Design 22.11.2018 kl. 11:13:

Dag Anita

Nee A.2 is 9 stokjes. A.2 is het gedeelte van het telpatroon dat je steeds herhaalt in de breedte. Je begint en eindigt steeds met A.1 of A.3 (staat aangegeven in het patroon) en daartussen zitten dus een aantal herhalingen van A.2

Donna T 03.10.2018 - 16:34:

Thank you for the explanation. That means the picture of A4 is incorrect showing 2 rows of double crochet, when it should only be 1 row of double crochet following your explanation. Or is it suppose to be 2 rows of double crochet? After A1 AX Row 1, at the end of A5 Row 1 (working right to left twice), after that last dc group ch 3, I assume you sc in last dc? Then 27 chains, skip 3 repeats of A.2 then continue next repeats as before (= 1st row in A.X).

DROPS Design 04.10.2018 kl. 09:41:

Dear Donna, at this step you only work 1 row treble crochets as shown in A.4. The 2 rows in A.4 will be worked later at the end of left piece. Happy crocheting!

Donna T 02.10.2018 - 22:53:

On left piece after it is 8 inches, 21 dc over A2, cut strand and start from beginning of row again from right side. This is for the second row of dc. If this is all dc, why does it say . . . and from the first row in AX which is single crochet's? Then when you finish those 21 dc, I assume you turn to work A1 (3 dc), work A5 over the 18 dc? When you turn again you start second row of A5. At the end of those 2 rows of 21 dc, how do you stop that row to start the 27 chain stitches?

DROPS Design 03.10.2018 kl. 07:52:

Dear Donna, adjust the length after a complete repeat of A.X - ie work some more/fewer rows if required. Then you will work an extra row over the first sts on jacket towards collar (like short rows), ie: A.1 + 18 dc over the first 2 repeats of A.2 = 21 dc. Cut the strand and continue working from RS with 1st row in A.X (work A.5 over the first 2 repeats), 27 chains and skip 3 repeats of A.2 then continue next repeats as before (= 1st row in A.X). Happy crocheting!

Sandrine 26.07.2018 - 10:23:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas, au début, on a "87-96-105 brides" et ensuite "Crocheter ensuite ainsi – sur l'envers: A.3 (= 3 brides), A.2 (= 9 brides) au-dessus des 81-90-99 brides suivantes". Comment passe-t-on de 87 à 86 brides ?

DROPS Design 26.07.2018 kl. 12:04:

Bonjour Sandrine, on crochète bien les 87 brides: A.3 = 3 brides, 9 x A.2 = 81 brides et 1 x A.1 = 3 brides soit 3+81+3= 87 brides. Bon crochet!

Claire 20.06.2018 - 14:03:

Just wondering as I see a difference in the pattern vs the diagram. The pattetn repeats the first row in the other direction. On the first diagram there is a row with lots of chain stitches. I cannot figure out where this row has to be crocheted. I hope you can clarify. Thank you

DROPS Design 20.06.2018 kl. 16:05:

Dear Claire, you will start reading diagrams A.3,A.2 and A.1 from the WS, ie from the bottom corner on the left side and you read towards the right. On the right side rows, read from the right towards the left, ie: A.1, A.2 and A.3. Happy crocheting!

Evelyn 13.05.2018 - 20:30:

Hallo, könnte man auch das Garn Sky für die Anleitung verwenden? Wieviel Gramm würde man davon benötigen? Vielen Dank!

DROPS Design 14.05.2018 kl. 11:09:

Liebe Evelyn, Sky gehört zur Garngruppe B und Air (in diesem Modell) zur Garngruppe C so daß SKy ist hier keine Garnalternative. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternative. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

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