DROPS / 187 / 30

Diamonds in Lace by DROPS Design

Top with lace pattern, raglan and A-shape, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Safran.

DROPS design: Pattern e-273
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour 17, white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 23 stitches and 30 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm for garter stitch edges – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use number of stitches on row (e.g. 110 stitches) and divide number of stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 44) = 2.5. 
In this example increase by making a yarn over after alternately approx. every 2nd and 3rd stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on round).
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit the yarn overs to make holes. Then knit the new stitches.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over. Repeat in the other side (= 4 stitches increased on round). On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes.
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TOP:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 110-115-120-125-130-137 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Safran. Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 round while increasing 44-39-38-41-56-65 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced) = 154-154-158-166-186-202 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Insert 4 marker threads in piece without working as follows: Insert a marker thread at beginning of round (= in transition between sleeve and back piece), insert next marker thread after 53-53-55-59-69-77 stitches, (= back piece), insert next marker thread after another 24 stitches (= sleeve), insert next marker thread after another 53-53-55-59-69-77 stitches (= front piece), 24 stitches (= sleeve) now remain after last marker thread.
Round begins in transition between sleeve and back piece. Now work pattern as follows: Knit 2, make 1 yarn over, knit 0-0-1-3-8-12, work the middle 49 stitches in A.1 (i.e. skip the outermost 4 stitches in each side of diagram), knit 0-0-1-3-8-12 (= back piece), make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over, knit 20 (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over, knit 11-11-12-14-19-23, A.2 (= 27 stitches), knit 11-11-12-14-19-23, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over, knit 20 (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, knit 2. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. First increase for RAGLAN - explanation above, is now done (= 8 stitches increased on round). Continue pattern like this and increase every other round 20-24-28-31-33-36 times in total (including first increase explained above) = 314-346-382-414-450-490 stitches. NOTE! For every increase for raglan there is room for one more stitch of pattern A.1 towards raglan lines on back piece. When enough stitches have been increased to work all stitches in diagram A.1, 16-20-24-27-29-32 increases remain for raglan – knit these stitches. Repeat diagram A.1 vertically until finished measurements. Work A.2 one time vertically, then work in stocking stitch over stitches in A.2.
When all increases are done, the piece should measure 15-17-20-22-23-25 cm from cast-on edge mid front. Continue without increase for raglan until piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-25 cm from cast-on edge mid front (if the knitting tension is correct vertically this measurement is already achieved in size XL, XXL, and XXXL). Work next row as follows: Work first 93-101-111-121-135-149 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 64-72-80-86-90-96 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches in the side under sleeve, work the next 93-101-111-121-135-149 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 64-72-80-86-90-96 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches in the side under sleeve. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 202-218-238-262-290-318 stitches. Insert a marker thread in each side, i.e. in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches cast on in each side under sleeves (= 101-109-119-131-145-159 stitches on both back and front piece). Continue in the round with pattern A.1 on back piece as before and work in stocking stitch over the remaining stitches on round. When piece measures 4 cm, increase 2 stitches in each side - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this approx. every 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm 9 times in total = 238-254-274-298-326-354 stitches. When piece measures approx. 34-35-36-37-38-38 cm from division, switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work 3 ridges. Cast off. To avoid at tight cast-off edge cast off with a larger sized needle. Top measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 64-72-80-86-90-96 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 72-80-88-96-100-106 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches under sleeve. Begin round here and work in stocking stitch in the round. When sleeve measures 2 cm from division, switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work 3 ridges. Cast off. To avoid at tight cast-off edge cast off with a larger sized needle. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next round knit the yarn over to make holes.
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 187-30) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Linda 25.04.2019 - 10:45:

Flot sommerbluse! Men jeg savner opskrifter oppefra og ned med venderækker, så blusen går højere op i nakken. Kunne der komme en tilføjelse? Eller måske en ny opskrift?

DROPS Design 30.04.2019 kl. 14:04:

Hei Linda. Denne oppsrkiften er skrevet uten forhøyning, men du må gjerne legg til en forhøyning selv, om du ønsker det. Du kan se på en lignende oppskrift i samme garn, feks 178-45, her, og følge anvisningen der. Strikk forhøyningen før du begynner med hullmønsteret. God fornøyelse

Marylin Estrada 05.11.2018 - 21:43:

Quisiera hacer la parte d atrás sin calados sólo en punto derecho es posible?

DROPS Design 19.11.2018 kl. 22:40:

Hola Marylin. Puedes trabajar la espalda sin calados sustituyendo los puntos trabajados junto al diagrama A.1 por puntos en punto jersey.

Beverly 28.09.2018 - 18:37:

I figured out what was wrong, i was misreading the chart. Now my second question. Is the pattern to knit all stitches every other row? As every other row on the chart is blank

DROPS Design 30.09.2018 kl. 09:02:

Dear Beverly,the even numbered rows (every other row) is knit all the way around. Happy Knitting!

Beverly 28.09.2018 - 14:49:

I am knitting size M. I have done the 3 garter ridges and added the 39 stitches. My problem is that as i am working the middle 49 stitches of A1, i run out of stitches before i finish the pattern. I am able to finish about 44 stitches of the pattern. What am i doing wrong?

DROPS Design 01.10.2018 kl. 07:45:

Dear Berverly, work 1st row in pattern while inc for raglan as follows: Knit 2, 1 YO, work the middle 49 stitches in A.1, (= back piece), 1 YO, knit 4, 1 YO, knit 20 (= sleeve), 1 YO, knit 4, 1 YO, knit 11, A.2 (= 27 stitches), knit 11, 1 YO, knit 4, 1 YO, knit 20 (= sleeve), 1 YO, knit 2. = 2+49+4+20+4+11+27+11+4+20+2= 154+8 YOs = 162 sts. Happy Knitting!

Friedgund Thum 24.07.2018 - 16:31:

Ich habe mir diesen Pulli in schwarz und das n blau gestrickt! Er sitzt super und ist ein echtes Allround-Teil. Großartig!!!! Nun habe ich schon den ersten Auftrag einer Freundin bekommen, ihr auch einen zu stricken 😊

Friedgund Thum 24.07.2018 - 16:31:

Ich habe mir diesen Pulli in schwarz und das n blau gestrickt! Er sitzt super und ist ein echtes Allround-Teil. Großartig!!!! Nun habe ich schon den ersten Auftrag einer Freundin bekommen, ihr auch einen zu stricken 😊

Ute Hartmann 19.07.2018 - 18:50:

Ich habe mir diesen wunderschönen Pulli nachgestrickt. Es war das erste Mal, dass ich einen Pullover von oben nach unten strickte und es hat super geklappt. Durch das durchgehende Muster im Rückenbereich wird das Stricken auch nicht langweilig.

Bader Isabel 16.07.2018 - 10:02:

Guten Tag Gerne möchte ich dieses Top ohne Muster stricken. Kann ich das Muster einfach ignorieren und die Raglanzunahmen arbeiten und muss ich trotzdem Maschen überspringen? Mir ist nicht ganz klar, wie ich einen Ausschnitt erhalte. Vielen Dank für Ihre Rückmeldung und freundliche Grüsse. Isabel Bader

DROPS Design 16.07.2018 kl. 12:03:

Liebe Frau Bader, Sie können wahrscheinlich das Top ohne Lochmuster stricken, einfach Diagramme ignorieren, für die Raglanzunahmen werden Löcher entstehen, wenn Sie keine möchten, können Sie die Umschläge verschränkt stricken (oder mit einem anderen Technik zunehmen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Doris 19.05.2018 - 09:26:

Ich habe den Pullover in Drops Baby Merino gestrickt. Er ist superschön geworden und passt wie angegossen. Danke für die vielen schönen Muster!

Carmen 10.05.2018 - 19:44:

Tengo una duda con este patrón. Cuando dice que a partir de los 15cms de ranglan se siga tejiendo hasta los 19cms pero sin aumentar puntos ?se sigue echando la hebra para que quede el agujero? No se si me he explicado bien ,espero que si.Gracias por atenderme.

DROPS Design 13.05.2018 kl. 12:48:

Hola Carmen, después de completar los aumentos del raglán, las vueltas que se trabajan para alcanzar las medidas no tienen hebras, ya que las hebras se trabajan para aumentar puntos.

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