Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= knit | |
= purl |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Carly Pullover |
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Knitted jumper with raglan, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.
DROPS 186-30 |
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INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN: PATTERN: See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. RAGLAN: Increase to raglan on each side of A.1 (= 8 stitches increased per round). Increase by making 1 yarn over, on the next round work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the round (e.g. 168 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 24) = 7. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after every 7th stitch. On the next round, work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches) knit the next 2 stitches together. ---------------------------------------------------------- The piece is worked in the round with circular needle from mid back, top down. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles. JUMPER: Cast on 80-84-88-96-96-104 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 2 cm. The beginning of the round = mid back. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work the next round as follows: Knit 15-16-17-18-18-20 stitches - AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-1-2-2-2-3 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches, knit 30-32-34-36-36-40 stitches – AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 4-2-4-4-4-6 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches, knit 15-16-17-18-18-20 stitches – AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-1-2-2-2-3 stitches evenly over these stitches = 88-88-96-104-104-116 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! The next round is worked as follows: Knit 14-14-16-17-17-20 stitches (=half back piece), A.1 (= 6 stitches), knit 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches (= sleeve), A.1, knit 28-28-32-34-34-40 stitches (= front piece), A.1, knit 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches (= sleeve), A.1, knit 14-14-16-17-17-20 stitches (= half back piece). Continue this pattern at the same time as you increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1 to RAGLAN – see description above. Increase every 2nd round a total of 20-23-23-26-28-30 times. After all the increases there are 248-272-280-312-328-356 stitches on the needle. Continue with pattern and stocking stitch (without increasing) until the piece measures 23-26-27-29-31-33 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. Work the next round as follows: Work 39-42-43-48-52-57 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 46-52-54-60-60-64 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-10-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve), knit 78-84-86-96-104-114 stitches (= front piece), place the next 46-52-54-60-60-64 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-10-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve), and work the remaining 39-42-43-48-52-57 stitches (= half back piece). BODY: = 168-180-192-208-228-248 stitches. Insert a marker. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. Continue in the round with stocking stitch until the piece measures 25-24-25-24-24-24 cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 24-28-28-32-36-36 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP = 192-208-220-240-264-284 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with needle size 5.5 mm. The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down. SLEEVE: The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. Place the 46-52-54-60-60-64 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on circular needle/double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and in addition cast on 6-6-10-8-10-10 new stitches mid under sleeve = 52-58-64-68-70-74 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 4-3-2-2-1½-1½ cm a total of 9-11-14-15-15-16 times = 34-36-36-38-40-42 stitches. When the piece measures 36-34-33-31-30-29 cm knit 1 round where you increase 6-4-8-6-8-6 stitches evenly on round = 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). Continue with rib for 5 cm, then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 42-40-39-37-36-35 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (130)
Angelika Perpeth wrote:
Danke für die Anleitung, muß sagen das ich schon immer viel gestrickt habe.es war sehr hilfreich für mich.Weiter so die Anregungen sehr gut.Bleiben Sie gesund.
18.11.2020 - 10:36Kristine wrote:
Hej Jeg er nået til delen som hedder "RYG- OG FORSTYKKE:“ og jeg er i tvivl om at jeg blot skal stikke glat strik igennem A1 mønsteret eller og A1 mønsteret skulle havet været taget med over på en tråd sammen med ærmerne?
06.10.2020 - 15:39Virginie Grin wrote:
Bonjour, je viens de finir le sweater Carly avec la laine Drops Air. Je l'ai tricoté en taille L. A la fin, je l'ai lavé et mis à sécher à plat (blocage, mais je n'ai rien tiré). Et finalement, il s'est détendu d'au moins 15%, il est plus large et plus long que le diagramme. Comment aurais-je dû faire pour avoir un ouvrage aux dimensions du diagramme? Choisir une taille M? J'ai un autre projet avec une laine Drops Sky, est-ce que ça sera pareil? D'avance merci
30.09.2020 - 20:55DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Grin, vous trouverez ici des conseils pour l'entretien de vos fils et laines à tricoter DROPS - votre magasin aura fort probablement d'autres astuces pour vous, n'hésitez pas à le contacter, même par mail ou téléphone, on saura vous conseiller. Bon tricot!
01.10.2020 - 10:09Katrine Rugaard wrote:
Hej, Når der står at arb skal måle 27 cm (str L) fra opslåningskant, er det så målt fra hvor rib halskant starter? Eller lige efter rib? Lidt tidligere i afsnittet står der omgangenes begyndelse efter rib - midt bagpå. Er forvirret hvor jeg skal måle fra. Kh. Katrine
01.07.2020 - 21:26DROPS Design answered:
Hej Katrine, ja da måler du fra der hvor du slog maskerne op. (Hver omgang starter midt bagpå) . God fornøjelse!
02.07.2020 - 11:50Line wrote:
Hei, jeg har nå strikket bolen i glattstrikk i 24 cm og skal i følge oppskriften bare strikke 5 cm til før felling.. Genseren blir jo veldig kort? Jeg vil helst ikke ha en magetopp heller. Jeg strikker str M, vil det være nok garn til å strikke 5-6 cm til før ribbekanten? Jeg har 300g Air. Takker for svar!
21.06.2020 - 18:05DROPS Design answered:
Hei Line. Det har vi dessverre ikke oversikt over. Ser på lignende modeller og noen av dem har en garnmengde på 350 gr, så 300 gr kan bli akkurat litt lite. Men om du nå f.eks strikker ermene ferdig først, så strikker du så genseren så lang du har garn til. God Fornøyelse!
22.06.2020 - 13:55Deni wrote:
Can you help me with the first row after yoke where increases start?I'm making XL size but can't figure out how to begin.
21.05.2020 - 09:35DROPS Design answered:
Dear Deni, before increasing for raglan you will first increase evenly on some sts: with larger needle work as follows: knit 18 sts inc 2 sts (= there are now 20 sts), knit 12 sts, knit 36 sts inc 4 sts (= there are now 40 sts), knit 12 sts, knit 18 sts inc 2 sts (there are now 20 sts) = there are now: 20+12+40+12+20= 104 sts on needle. Now work A.1 increasing for raglan as explained under RAGLAN. Happy knitting!
22.05.2020 - 09:42Karen Frisk wrote:
Jeg kan ikke få opskriften til at passe, jeg er nået til der hvor man skal sætte ærmerne på snor. Jeg har fået 24 masker for meget. Opskriften må være forkert? Det ville være en kæmpe hjælp, hvis det fremgik om raglanmønstret A1 skal tælle med på ærmesiden? Hvordan kan man redde opskriften? Jeg har trevlet op, og kommer til det samme mærkelige antal masker igen... HJÆLP!!!
13.05.2020 - 12:54Anne wrote:
Hej. Jeg har lige strikket denne opskrift i str. M og fulgt opskrift og antal masker hele vejen, men den er ALT for bred!!! Måler 65 cm i bredden og jeg Har 14 masker på pind 5,5 på 10 cm i strikkefasthed , så forstår ikke hvorfor og er nødt til at pille det hele op igen. Øv øv. Hvad går der galt???
07.05.2020 - 07:26DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anne, for at få målene i opskriften, så er du nødt til at følge strikkefastheden ifølge opskriften, som er 16 masker på 10 cm i bredden. (har du færre masker (14) så vil den blive for bred og har du flere, vil den blive for smal) Øv men du er nødt til at starte forfra hvis du vil have den mindre. :)
08.05.2020 - 09:49Joanne wrote:
Hi. Im doing the Carly pullover. On the first row of the pattern for the raglan, it says knit 14,then 4,then 28 then 4 then 14. It says continue at the same time increasing on each side of raglan every 2 round. I understand that but my problem is. This works out 64 stitches above? I have 88 on my needles, am i just carried on knitting the pattern? But the arms are not even? I followed the pattern correctly and had 88 as i was supposed to have. So im 24 over and not sure?
17.04.2020 - 00:07DROPS Design answered:
Dear Joanne, you should have 88 stitches on this round: Knit 14 (=half back piece), A.1 (= 6 stitches), knit 4 (= sleeve), A.1 (= 6 stitches), knit 28 (= front piece), A.1 (= 6 stitches), knit 4 (= sleeve), A.1 (= 6 stitches), knit 14 (= half back piece) = 14+6+4+6+28+6+4+6+14= 88 sts. Round starts on mid on back piece, there are 28 stitches for front and back piece, 4 ssts on each sleeve and 6 sts for each of the 4 raglan line. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!
17.04.2020 - 09:00Elin Lønne wrote:
Har strikket ferdig bolen. (Str xxl) det står du skal øke 36 masker før vrangbord nede. Det må jo være feil. Du vil jo få et»skjørt» da. Jeg økte ingenting, og den ble fortsatt for vid.
13.04.2020 - 08:25