DROPS / 208 / 1

Carly Pullover by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan for men, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked with DROPS Air.

  • Carly Pullover / DROPS 208-1 - Knitted jumper with raglan for men, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked with DROPS Air.
  • Carly Pullover / DROPS 208-1 - Knitted jumper with raglan for men, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked with DROPS Air.
  • Carly Pullover / DROPS 208-1 - Knitted jumper with raglan for men, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked with DROPS Air.
  • Carly Pullover / DROPS 208-1 - Knitted jumper with raglan for men, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked with DROPS Air.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-239
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-400-400-450-450-500 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZES 4.5 AND 5.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZES 4.5 AND 5.5 MM: Length 40 and 80 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of A.1 (= 8 increased stitches per increase-round). Increase by making 1 yarn over; on the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 168 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 24) = 7.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 7th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), knit 2 together.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a ½-size larger needle; or cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl and make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck (and turn-down), yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.
JUMPER:
Cast on 80-84-88-96-96-104 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air. Work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 8 cm – the neck will later be folded double towards the wrong side and be 4 cm on the finished garment. Start of round = mid back.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work the next round as follows: Knit 15-16-17-18-18-20 – AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-1-2-2-2-3 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit 10-10-10-12-12-12, knit 30-32-34-36-36-40 – AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 4-2-4-4-4-6 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit 10-10-10-12-12-12, knit 15-16-17-18-18-20 – AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-1-2-2-2-3 stitches evenly over these stitches = 88-88-96-104-104-116 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

The next round is worked as follows: Knit 14-14-16-17-17-20 (= half back piece), work A.1 (= 6 stitches), knit 4-4-4-6-6-6 (= sleeve), work A.1, knit 28-28-32-34-34-40 (= front piece), work A.1, knit 4-4-4-6-6-6 (= sleeve), work A.1, knit 14-14-16-17-17-20 (= half back piece). Continue this pattern, at the same time increase 1 stitch on each side of each A.1 to RAGLAN – see description above. Increase every 2nd round a total of 20-23-23-26-28-30 times. After all the increases there are 248-272-280-312-328-356 stitches on the needle. Continue with pattern and stocking stitch (without further increases) until the piece measures 29-31-33-35-37-39 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
The next round is worked as follows: Work 39-42-43-48-52-57 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 46-52-54-60-60-64 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-10-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve), knit 78-84-86-96-104-114 (= front piece), place the next 46-52-54-60-60-64 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-10-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve) and work the remaining 39-42-43-48-52-57 stitches (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 168-180-192-208-228-248 stitches. Insert 1 marker here. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. Continue in the round with stocking stitch until the piece measures 30 cm from division. Knit 1 round where you increase 0-0-0-8-4-16 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 168-180-192-216-232-264 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 5 cm. Cast off – read CASTING-OFF TIP. The piece measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles. Place the 46-52-54-60-60-64 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and cast on 6-6-10-8-10-10 new stitches mid under the sleeve = 52-58-64-68-70-74 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. Work stocking stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 9-8-7-7-6-6 cm decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 4½-3½-3-3-2½-2½ cm a total of 6-9-12-13-13-14 times = 40-40-40-42-44-46 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 41-39-38-36-34-33 cm knit 1 round where you increase 0-0-4-2-4-2 stitches evenly spaced = 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 6 cm. Cast off – read CASTING-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Fold the neck double towards the wrong side and sew with elastic stitches.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 05.05.2020
SLEEVE: XL-decrease every 2½ cm.
...When the sleeve measures 9-8-7-7-6-6 cm decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 4½-3½-3-2½-2½-2½ cm a total of 6-9-12-13-13-14 times = 40-40-40-42-44-46 stitches.
Updated online: 03.03.2021
Sketch updated with new measurements.

New measurements in text:

JUMPER:
... Continue with pattern and stocking stitch (without further increases) until the piece measures 29-31-33-35-37-39 cm from the cast-on edge mid front...

BODY:
... Continue in the round with stocking stitch until the piece measures 30 cm from division...

SLEEVE:
... When the sleeve measures 41-39-38-36-34-33 cm knit 1 round where you increase 0-0-4-2-4-2 stitches evenly spaced = 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches...

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 208-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (53)

country flag Kristina 28.04.2021 - 16:33:

Hei. Er det vanskeligere å begynne nedenfra og opp? Og viss man ønsker høy hals, har du forslag på hvor mange masker enn skal ha til strl M, eller andre lignende oppskrift med høy hals. - Kristina : )

user icon DROPS Design 29.04.2021 kl. 07:40:

Hej Kristina, her har du flere at vælge imellem med høj hals. Hvis du vælger en med samme strikkefasthed, så kan du stadigvæk bruge DROPS Air: Herre - høy hals

country flag Silvia 08.04.2021 - 16:43:

El texto y el dibujo del patrón no cuadra. En el texto pone “ Continuar con el patrón y punto jersey (sin más aumentos) hasta que la pieza mida 29-31-33-35-37-39 cm a partir de la orilla de montaje a lo largo del centro del frente” en el dibujo esta medida es, en la talla M, 20+4+4=28, no 31. He seguido el texto y la sisa de jersey me ha quedado muy baja, no tiene nada que ver con la foto del modelo

country flag Malene Sørensen 14.03.2021 - 20:00:

Hej Hvor er det man skal bruge diagrammet som jeg Kan se det er det kun glatstrik Er det ved raglon ærmet eller hvad ...???? Tak for hurtigt svar Mvh malene.

user icon DROPS Design 17.03.2021 kl. 15:15:

Hej Malene, ja det stemmer, det strikkes i hver raglanovergang. Du starter med at strikke der hvor det står START ARBEJDET HER: ... God fornøjelse!

country flag Monika 12.03.2021 - 08:34:

Dzień dobry, wykonuję sweter w rozmiarze S. Wydaje mi się, że istnieje pewna rozbieżność pomiędzy opisem a schematem w części dotyczącej karczku. W opisie jest napisane, że po zakończeniu reglanu przerabiać (dla modelu S), aż długość robótki liczona od nabierania oczek wyniesie 29 cm. W schemacie podane jest (4 +4 - czyli 8 cm ściągacza + 18 cm długość do podkroju rękawów co daje 26 cm, a nie 29 cm? Czy jest to błąd w schemacie?

user icon DROPS Design 12.03.2021 kl. 11:17:

Witaj Moniko, musisz mierzyć od początku wykończenia dekoltu (jego część będzie później zagięta i powstanie podwójne wykończenie dekoltu), nie jest to zaznaczone na schemacie. Pozdrawiamy!

country flag Anna 12.03.2021 - 07:49:

Dobrý den, mohu se prosím zeptat co přesně znamená "SOUČASNĚ přidat nad oky" ? (viz např. odstavec PULOVR) Děkuji moc.

user icon DROPS Design 26.03.2021 kl. 06:30:

Dobrý den, Anno! Tyto instrukce znamenají, že je potřeba udělat víc věcí zároveň :-): tj. pokračujete v pletení jak je uvedeno dříve a SOUČASNĚ (navíc) musíte ještě během tohoto pletení příslušný počet ok přidat/ujmout atp. U tohoto konkrétního modelu je to snadné, protože nemá vzorek (a proto může být ta instrukce trochu matoucí), ale u krajkových či pestrobarevných svetrů je potřeba vědět, že se k předchozím instrukcím přidává úkon navíc. Hodně zdaru! Hana

country flag Hadrien 08.03.2021 - 19:01:

Bonjour, quand vous dites "Augmenter 23 fois au total (pour du M) tous les deux tours" (après le col) faut-il augmenter 23 fois en plus du raglan (à savoir de chaque coté de A1 tous les tours ce qui fait 8 augmentations par tours)? Et ce tous les 2 tours ou 23 fois répartis sur les deux tours? Sinon j'ai du mal à comprendre comment atteindre le bon nombre de mailles (272). Merci par avance pour votre réponse.

user icon DROPS Design 09.03.2021 kl. 07:22:

Bonjour Hadrien, il s'agit ici des augmentations du raglan, vous devez augmenter comme indiqué sous RAGLAN, autrement dit 1 maille de chaque côté de chaque A.1 - on tricote A.1 à chaque transition entre le dos/le devant et les manches: 4 fois au total, on augmente avant A.1 + après A.1 = 2 m à chaque A.1 x 4 = 8 mailles vont être augmentées à chaque fois (= tous les 2 tours: 1 tour d'augmentations, 1 tour sans augmentations). Et tricotez ces 2 tours 23 fois au total - vous augmentez 46 m pour chaque manche/devant/dos. Autrement dit: 88 + 23x 8 augm = 272 m. Bon tricot!

country flag Anna KArlsson 27.02.2021 - 16:36:

Hej! Fint mönster! Skulle ni kunna tipsa/länka till ett par andra garnen som passar till detta mönster. Anna

user icon DROPS Design 01.03.2021 kl. 09:41:

Hej Anna. Denna tröja kan du sticka i antingen 1 tråd från garngrupp C eller 2 trådar från garngrupp A. Du hittar en översikt över våra garngrupper här. Tänk som vanligt bara på att få den stickfasthet som uppges i mönstret och att beräkna riktig garnåtgång. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Hadrien 22.02.2021 - 23:55:

Bonjour je débute la confection de pull en circulaire et j'ai du mal à comprendre la partie augmentation: "Continuer avec l'aiguille circulaire 5,5 et tricoter le tour suivant ainsi: 16 maille endroit – en augmentant EN MÊME TEMPS 1 mailles à intervalles réguliers". Si je suis les explications dois-je augmenter d'une maille au bout des 16 mailles soit 16/1 = 16? De plus où placer mes repères après l'étape du col? Après chaque augmentation? Merci d'avance

user icon DROPS Design 23.02.2021 kl. 08:49:

Bonjour Hadrien, vous devez augmenter 1 maille dans les 16 mailles endroit (vous pouvez l'augmenter au milieu pour qu'elle soit bien centrée), ensuite en M vous devrez augmenter 2 mailles dans les 32 mailles endroit, de même, répartissez ces 2 augmentations à intervalles réguliers dans ces 32 mailles. Cette leçon explique comment augmenter à intervalles réguliers et pourra probablement vous aider. Bon tricot!

country flag Bára 21.02.2021 - 14:44:

Dobr ýden, ráda bych upletla tento svetr v barevné variaci /s pruhem) jakou mi doporučíte vlnu, která stoprocentně nebude kousat? (Svetr je pro syna a citlivou pokožkou) Díky Bára

user icon DROPS Design 21.02.2021 kl. 21:26:

Dobrý den, Báro, pro tento účel by byla ideální jemná silná merino vlna DROPS Big Merino. Hodně zdaru! Hana

country flag Tim Hagey 10.02.2021 - 19:24:

Error found. When slipping the 46-52-54-60-60-64 sleeve sts to a thread, it says to cast on 6-6-10-8-10-10 add'l sts. In the sleeve section of the pattern, it says to move the 46-52-54-60-60-64 sleeve sts from the thread onto your needle, and cast on 6-6-10-8-10-10 sts. It says you should now have 52-58-64-68-70-74 sts. In my case, I have 60 sts on the thread, and cast on 8. If I cast on an additional 8 sts, I will have 76 sts, when I only need 68. Shouldn't it say "pick up" sts?

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