Hush Hush by DROPS Design

Crochet bag with colored pattern and tassels, worked in the round from the middle of the bottom of the bag and upwards. The piece is worked in DROPS Paris.

Keywords: bags, colorwork, zigzag,
  • Hush Hush / DROPS 186-3 - Crochet bag with colored pattern and tassels, worked in the round from the middle of the bottom of the bag and upwards. The piece is worked in DROPS Paris.
  • Hush Hush / DROPS 186-3 - Crochet bag with colored pattern and tassels, worked in the round from the middle of the bottom of the bag and upwards. The piece is worked in DROPS Paris.
DROPS Design: Pattern no w-717
Yarn group C or A + A
Measurements: Circumference: 48 cm / 19''. Height: 28 cm / 11''.
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100 g color 17, off white
100 g color 38, raspberry
50 g color 37, rusty red

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM / C – or the size needed to get 20 double crochets and 11 rows on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

At the beginning of each round of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.

When changing color at the start of a round, work the slip stitch at the end of the previous round with the new color.
When working with several colors on a round of double crochets, work as follows: Work the last double crochet with the first color, but wait with the last pull through, change to the next color and work the last pull through with this new color, then work the next double crochet.
When working with 2 colors, lay the strand of the color you are not working with over the stitches from the previous round and work around the strand so that it is hidden in the stitches; the strand is also brought forward in this way.

See diagrams A.1 to A.3. 1 square = 1 double crochet.

The piece is worked in the round from the middle of the bottom of the bag and upwards.

Work 5 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and raspberry and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked. Then work double crochets and pattern in the round as follows: * A.1, A.2 *, work from *-* 6 times on the round - read COLOR PATTERN and CROCHET INFORMATION:
ROUND 1: Work 12 double crochets around the ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 double crochets in each double crochet = 24 double crochets.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 double crochet in the first double crochet, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 36 double crochets.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 double crochet in each of the first 2 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 48 double crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUNDS 5-8: Continue to increase and work pattern as before, i.e. on each round work 1 double crochet more between increases than on the previous round = 96 double crochets.
ROUND 9: Continue to work in the round, but without increases and work according to A.3 (= 6 repeats on the round). On the round with the star, work a row of holes as follows: * 1 double crochet in each of the first/next 3 double crochets, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round. Continue until A.3 has been completed. Cut and fasten the strand.

1 twisted cord = cut 6 strands off white of approx. 280 cm / 110''.
Twist them together until they begin to resist, fold the cord double and it will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end. Thread the cord in and out of the row of holes on the bag and finish by tying the 2 ends together in a large knot.

Make 2 large decorative tassels with off white as follows:
1 tassel = cut 50 strands off white of 14 cm / 5½''. Cut another strand of 20 cm / 8'', tie a knot around the 50 strands. Fold in 2 by the knot, wind a strand 4 times around the tassel, approx. 1.5 cm / ½'' down from the fold and tie a knot. Cut the strands so that the tassel is even at the bottom. Make another tassel in the same way.

Now crochet the tassels together with 2 strands off white as follows: fasten the strand with a slip stitch around the strand at the top of one of the tassels work 24 chain stitches, work 1 slip stitch around the strand at the top of the other tassel. Fasten the strands in each of the tassels. Divide the twisted cord in 2 so that one of the tassels can be inserted through. The tassels are now held in place because the chain stitches between the tassels are pinched in the twisted cord.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = rusty red
symbols = raspberry
symbols = off white
symbols = on this round work a row of holes to thread the cord through - see description in the text

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Linda wrote:

Dankjewel voor dit prachtig patroon

27.09.2021 - 15:07:

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour, Merci pour ce modèle. Je le trouve très agréable à faire. Cependant, je suis arrivée au rang ajouré et je ne trouve pas les explications. Peut-être ai-je mal vu mais je trouve pas les explications pour ce rang. Pouvez-vous m'aider ?

12.07.2021 - 23:16:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, le rang ajouré se crochète ainsi: *1 bride dans chacune des 3 premières brides/des 3 brides suivantes, 1 maille en l'air, sautez 1 bride*, et répétez de *-* tout le tour, ainsi vous sautez chaque 4ème bride que vous remplacez par 1 maille en l'air. Bon crochet!

13.07.2021 kl. 07:58:

country flag Chiara wrote:

I cannot find the diagram. Could you please help me?

15.03.2021 - 22:12:

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Chiara, Drops are having temporary problems loading images, but will be up and running again soon. The diagrams will then be at the bottom of the pattern. Happy crafting!

16.03.2021 kl. 08:03:

country flag Angi wrote:

Hallo ich verstehe das nicht was bei runde 5-8 gemeint ist wie soll ich da Zunähmen

10.04.2020 - 13:22:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Angi, genauso wie zuvor, dh bei der 5. Runde häkeln Sie: * je 1 Stäbchen in die ersten 3 Stäbchen, 2 Stäbchen in das nächste Stäbchen *, bei der 6. Runde * je 1 Stäbchen in die ersten 4 Stäbchen, 2 Stäbchen in das nächste Stäbchen *, und so weiter, dh es ist immer 1 Stäbchen mehr zwischen 2 Stäbchen in das nächste Stäbchen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

14.04.2020 kl. 10:30:

country flag Louise wrote:

I dont understand A1 and A2, wich one of them are the pattern being used ? Drops pattern explainatons are very very difficult, you explain just half of everything

17.02.2020 - 15:42:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Louise, both diagrams are worked, ie you repeat all the round: (A.1, A.2) - Read more about crochet diagrams here. Happy knitting!

17.02.2020 kl. 16:00:

country flag رحاب wrote:

اهلا عاوزة اتعلم

08.12.2019 - 10:33:

DROPS Design answered:

Hi, if you need some help, scroll down to the bottom of the page (after diagram to the bag), you will find some relevant videos to that pattern as well as some links that could be helpful. Please contact your yarn Store for any further individual assistance. Happy crocheting!

09.12.2019 kl. 09:12:

country flag Sadiah wrote:

Hi genau, das was ich gesucht habe von der grösse her. Hättest du auch dieselbe Anleitung ohne Muster? also unifarben? die musteranleitung verwirrt mich ein bisschen:) danke für die rückmeldung.

04.10.2018 - 02:05:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sadiah, für eine unifarbige Tasche häkeln Sie von dem Boden einfach wie in der schriflichen Anleitung (also mit der Zunahmen bis es 96 Stb gibt), dann ab 9 Runde weiter ohne Zunahmen häkeln: die 23 Reihen in A.3 (die Reihe mit den Löchern aber nicht vergessen). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

04.10.2018 kl. 10:21:

country flag Karen wrote:

Hi I love the item but I do not at all under stand how to read the a1 and a2 I would love to make the Norwegian mittens also but I have no idea how to read that pattern style , can some one direct me to a site with instructions. . Tyia

22.09.2018 - 19:48:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karen, 1 square in diagram = 1 stitch x 1 row. Start reading the diagram starting on the bottom corner on the right side towards the left on every row (when working in the round). Remember to read the pattern at the same time (eg here you will work A.1 following the increases at explained in the written pattern). You'll find with each pattern a list of videos to help you. Happy crocheting!

24.09.2018 kl. 11:02:

EMILY wrote:


08.08.2018 - 14:51:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emily, that's it! :)

08.08.2018 kl. 15:48:

EMILY wrote:


08.08.2018 - 11:34:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emily, make first the twisted string. Then make 2 tassels. Crochet now both tassels together: start with 1 sl st at the top of one of the tassels (insert the hook around the thread that keep the threads together at the top), then crochet 24 chains, and join with 1 sl st at the top of 2nd tassel (as for 1st tassel). Insert one of the tassel through the threads of the twisted string so that the twisted string will keep the chain in place. Happy finishing!

08.08.2018 kl. 13:16:

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