DROPS Extra / 0-1413

Icy Paws by DROPS Design

Felted mittens with star for Christmas. Piece is knitted in DROPS Lima.

DROPS design: Pattern no li-095
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L
Length before felting: approx. 34 - 36 - 37 cm
Length after felting: 28 - 29 - 30 cm
Length thumb felting: approx. 15 cm
Length thumb after felting: 12 cm
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100-150 g colour 9020, pearl grey
50 g for all sizes in colour 4305, dark blue

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 20 stitches and 26 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
After felting: 10 x 10 cm = 22 stitches and 34 rows.

ACCESSORIES: 2 safety pins and 2 small plastic bags for felting.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 56 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 4) = 14.
In this example decrease by knitting every 13th and 14th stitch together.

See diagram A.1. Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch.

Increase 1 stitch by working 2 stitches in same stitch.

Begin 2 stitches before stitch with marker, knit 2 together, knit stitch with marker, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

Worked back and forth on circular needle until A.1 is done, then work the rest of mitten in the round in stocking stitch on double pointed needles.

Cast on 56-56-62 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with dark blue. Work 4 rows in stocking stitch back and forth. Switch to pearl grey and work 2 rows in stocking stitch while decreasing 4 stitches evenly on first row - read DECREASE TIP-1 = 52-52-58 stitches. Switch back to dark blue and work 2 rows in stocking stitch. Then work in stocking stitch and pearl grey - on first row decrease 4 stitch evenly = 48-48-54 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 10-11-12 cm in all sizes, decrease 4-0-2 stitches evenly = 44-48-52 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in 25th-27th-29th stitch on needle (= marks thumb increase).
Work a star mid on top of hand as follows: Work 0-1-2 stitches with pearl grey, work A.1 (= 21 stitches), and work with pearl grey the rest of row. Continue A.1 like this.
AT THE SAME TIME increase 1 stitch on each side of stitch with marker - read INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this outside the increased stitches every 4th row (i.e. on every other row from right side) 6-7-8 times in total = 56-62-68 stitches.
After last increase slip the increased stitches + stitch with marker + 1 stitch on each side of these stitches on a stitch holder for thumb (A.1 should now be done) = 15-17-19 thumb stitches on stitch holder. Piece measures approx. 20-22-23 cm.
Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Then work mitten in the round on double pointed needles with stocking stitch and pearl grey until finished measurements.
AT THE SAME TIME on first round when working in the round, cast on 3 new stitches on needle over stitches on stitch holder (= behind thumb) = 44-48-52 stitches.
When piece measures 13-13-12 cm from stitches cast on behind thumb, insert 2 markers as follows: Insert 1 marker in first stitch on round and 1 marker in 23rd-25th-27th stitch on round. On next round decrease 1 stitch on both each side of both markers – read DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every other round a total of 4-5-6 times and then on every round a total of 4 times in all sizes = 12 stitches remain in all sizes. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten.

Work the thumb with pearl grey. Slip the 15-17-19 thumb stitches on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm, pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 3 stitches cast on behind thumb = 18-20-22 stitches. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When thumb measures approx. 6-6½-7 cm decrease 2 stitches evenly = 16-18-20 stitches. Knit 3 rounds. On next round decrease 6-8-8 stitches evenly = 10-10-12 stitches. When thumb measures 7½-8-8½ cm, knit all stitches together two by two = 5-5-6 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten.

Cast on and work as right mitten but reversed.
I.e. increase for thumb on each side of the 20th-22nd-24th stitch on round and when working star mid on top of hand, work as follows: Work 22-24-26 stitches with pearl grey, work A.1 (= 21 stitches), and work 0-1-2 stitches with pearl grey.

Work thumb the same way as on right mitten.

Sew the opening along the edge of mittens - sew edge to edge in outer loop of edge stitch so that the seam is flat (sew with pearl grey).

Turn the mitten inside-out and place a plastic bag inside the thumb to avoid it felting together. Fasten it with a safety pin - NOTE: Fasten the pin vertically down towards tip of thumb to make it easy to remove after felting. Turn the mitten out again so that it is felted with RS outwards.
Then place the mittens in the washing machine with a detergent without enzymes and optical bleach. Wash at 40 degrees with normal spin but no pre-wash. After wash shape the mittens to the right measurements while still wet and leave to dry flat. At subsequent wash, wash the mittens at regular wool programme.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 01.04.2019
Correction: When piece measures 10-11-12 cm in all sizes, decrease 4-0-2 stitches evenly = 44-48-52 stitches.


= pearl grey
= dark blue

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1413) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

Esther Lessard 12.11.2019 - 18:43:

Bonjour, J'aimerais faire les mitaines feutrées à un homme très grands et costaud. Est-ce possible d'avoir un patron plus grand ?

DROPS Design 13.11.2019 kl. 08:43:

Bonjour Mme Lessard, vous trouverez ici tous nos modèles de moufles feutrées, parmi lesquelles vous trouverez peut-être la bonne taille ou dont vous pourrez vous inspirer si besoin. Bon tricot!

Poppy 18.03.2019 - 19:23:

Hi, I love this pattern! I’m a bit confused, though. I’ve done “When piece measures 11 cm in all sizes, decrease 4 stitches evenly = 44 stitches.” But then it says to start the star at 10 cm and increase for the thumb at 11cm. Should I start the star first and then do the decrease and increase on the same line or is there a typo? Thanks, Poppy

DROPS Design 20.03.2019 kl. 11:26:

Dear Poppy, thank you for writing to us. The decrease of 4 stitches is for the overall shaping of the mittens so you do it evenly distributed on the round, while increasing for the thumb happens only at one place. As the patterns says "at the same time", so you are doing the two things at the same time. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting, thi is such a lovely project!

Anneli 29.01.2019 - 13:07:

Underbara vantar, jag älskar dom! Jag har stickat dom och tovat två gånger (först i 40 C och en gång till i 30 C) för att nå rätt storlek och är jättenöjd! Ett stort tack för fint garn och ett bra mönster! ❤️

Rachel Dyas 22.01.2019 - 14:13:

Thank you for your reply regarding the thumb length - I can see what I have done - misread when to start the decreases so the main bit pdf the mitten is too short - have unbound and ripped back to where I made the mistake. Thank you very much for getting back to me and in future I will knit with more haste and less speed :D

Rachel Dyas 22.01.2019 - 12:48:

Hi there I think I have followed the measurements for the largest size, it looks strange though, before felting is the thumb supposed to be longer than the main mitten? have I made a mistake:/

DROPS Design 22.01.2019 kl. 12:57:

Dear Mrs Dyas, the thumb is not supposed to be longer than the mitten, it should measure approx. 9 cm from where you picked up the stitches and 12 cm from beg of gusset. You start to decrease for top of hand on mitten when piece measures 12 cm from the new sts cast on over thumb gusset, make sure you get the correct measurements. Happy knitting!

Ilona 17.01.2019 - 10:03:

För att sticka A1 och mönster undrar jag om jag måste klippa trådarna efter varje varv?

DROPS Design 17.01.2019 kl. 15:04:

Hei Ilona. Denne votten strikker du frem og tilbake til A.1 er strikket ferdig, du trenger derfor ikke klippe tråden mellom hver omgang. Strikk med perlegrå frem til A.1, strikk med 2 farger over disse 21 masker, og fortsett med perlegrå ut omganggen. Snu, strikk med perlegrå til du kommer til A.1, strikk med 2 farger over perlegrå. Den blå tråden vil hele tiden være i den siden av A.1 du strikker fra, så du trenger ikke klippe tråden her. God fornøyelse

Catharina Österberg 27.11.2018 - 08:28:

Hej, varför finns aldrig garnet att köpas i samma färg som mönstret?? Klickar på en bild på ett mönster man vill ha, men sedan finns inte garnet?

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