DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.60 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Extra 0-1413
DROPS design: Pattern no li-095
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L
Length before felting: approx. 34 - 36 - 37 cm
Length after felting: 28 - 29 - 30 cm
Length from beginning of thumb to top before felting: approx. 15 cm
Length from beginning of thumb to top after felting: 12 cm

Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100-150 g colour 9020, pearl grey
50 g for all sizes in colour 4305, dark blue

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 20 stitches and 26 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
After felting: 10 x 10 cm = 22 stitches and 34 rows.

ACCESSORIES: 2 safety pins and 2 small plastic bags for felting.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.60 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

DECREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 56 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 4) = 14.
In this example decrease by knitting every 13th and 14th stitch together.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by working 2 stitches in same stitch.

DECREASE TIP-2:
Begin 2 stitches before stitch with marker, knit 2 together, knit stitch with marker, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
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RIGHT MITTEN:
Worked back and forth on circular needle until A.1 is done, then work the rest of mitten in the round in stocking stitch on double pointed needles.

Cast on 56-56-62 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with dark blue. Work 4 rows in stocking stitch back and forth. Switch to pearl grey and work 2 rows in stocking stitch while decreasing 4 stitches evenly on first row - read DECREASE TIP-1 = 52-52-58 stitches. Switch back to dark blue and work 2 rows in stocking stitch. Then work in stocking stitch and pearl grey - on first row decrease 4 stitch evenly = 48-48-54 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 10-11-12 cm in all sizes, decrease 4-0-2 stitches evenly = 44-48-52 stitches.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Insert 1 marker in 25th-27th-29th stitch on needle (= marks thumb increase).
Work a star mid on top of hand as follows: Work 0-1-2 stitches with pearl grey, work A.1 (= 21 stitches), and work with pearl grey the rest of row. Continue A.1 like this.
AT THE SAME TIME increase 1 stitch on each side of stitch with marker - read INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this outside the increased stitches every 4th row (i.e. on every other row from right side) 6-7-8 times in total = 56-62-68 stitches.
After last increase slip the increased stitches + stitch with marker + 1 stitch on each side of these stitches on a stitch holder for thumb (A.1 should now be done) = 15-17-19 thumb stitches on stitch holder. Piece measures approx. 20-22-23 cm.
Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Then work mitten in the round on double pointed needles with stocking stitch and pearl grey until finished measurements.
AT THE SAME TIME on first round when working in the round, cast on 3 new stitches on needle over stitches on stitch holder (= behind thumb) = 44-48-52 stitches.
When piece measures 13-13-12 cm from stitches cast on behind thumb, insert 2 markers as follows: Insert 1 marker in first stitch on round and 1 marker in 23rd-25th-27th stitch on round. On next round decrease 1 stitch on both each side of both markers – read DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every other round a total of 4-5-6 times and then on every round a total of 4 times in all sizes = 12 stitches remain in all sizes. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten.

THUMB:
Work the thumb with pearl grey. Slip the 15-17-19 thumb stitches on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm, pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 3 stitches cast on behind thumb = 18-20-22 stitches. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When thumb measures approx. 6-6½-7 cm decrease 2 stitches evenly = 16-18-20 stitches. Knit 3 rounds. On next round decrease 6-8-8 stitches evenly = 10-10-12 stitches. When thumb measures 7½-8-8½ cm, knit all stitches together two by two = 5-5-6 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten.

LEFT MITTEN:
Cast on and work as right mitten but reversed.
I.e. increase for thumb on each side of the 20th-22nd-24th stitch on round and when working star mid on top of hand, work as follows: Work 22-24-26 stitches with pearl grey, work A.1 (= 21 stitches), and work 0-1-2 stitches with pearl grey.

THUMB:
Work thumb the same way as on right mitten.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening along the edge of mittens - sew edge to edge in outer loop of edge stitch so that the seam is flat (sew with pearl grey).

FELTING:
Turn the mitten inside-out and place a plastic bag inside the thumb to avoid it felting together. Fasten it with a safety pin - NOTE: Fasten the pin vertically down towards tip of thumb to make it easy to remove after felting. Turn the mitten out again so that it is felted with RS outwards.
Then place the mittens in the washing machine with a detergent without enzymes and optical bleach. Wash at 40 degrees with normal spin but no pre-wash. After wash shape the mittens to the right measurements while still wet and leave to dry flat. At subsequent wash, wash the mittens at regular wool programme.

AFTER FELTING:
If the piece is not felted enough and is too big: Wash the piece one more time in the washing machine while it is still wet add a terry towel that measures approx. 50 x 70 cm - NOTE: Do not use a short program.
If the piece has been felted too much and is too small: While the piece is still wet stretch it to the correct measurements, if the piece is dry, make sure to soak it first.
Remember: All subsequent washes are as a normal wool garment.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 01.04.2019
Correction: When piece measures 10-11-12 cm in all sizes, decrease 4-0-2 stitches evenly = 44-48-52 stitches.

Diagram

symbols = pearl grey
symbols = dark blue
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Tanja wrote:

Hej, jeg har strikket et par vanter i Nepal, som skulle filtes efterfølgende. Jeg har valgt 40 grader, 1000 omdrejninger og 58 min. Det var er forkert valg, da jeg fik mini vanter. De kan bruges som pynt til juletræ, men det var jo ikke meningen :). Skal man vælge et almindeligt program til bomuld der kører 2,5-3 timer? Og hvad med omdrejninger? Er 1600 ikke for meget?

30.12.2023 - 13:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tanja, det er forskelligt fra kvalitet til kvaltiet og fra vaskemaskine til vaskemaskine... men du bør kunne gøre dem våde igen med en anelse balsam eller skyllemiddel og så trække dem forsigtigt ud i den rigtige størrelse :)

03.01.2024 - 08:03

country flag Eva Flataunet wrote:

Hej Kan jag tova Vikinggarn Alpaca Storm

12.01.2023 - 06:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Eva, du kan tova DROPS Lima som passer til opskriften :)

12.01.2023 - 15:15

country flag Peggy wrote:

Hi, I'm a novice knitter and am struggling with how to proceed on the thumb increases. Is my understanding correct in that I am increasing every 4th row, which means there would be 5 increases as A.1 is worked and then two more increases over the last two rows of A.1 and first 6 rows of pearl grey? In other words, increase in rows 4, 8, 12, 16, and 20 of A.1 and then rows 2 and 6 once I switch back to all pearl grey? Thank you in advance for you help!

10.11.2022 - 01:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Peggy, when you increase on every 4th row work like this: *1 row with increases, 3 rows without increases*, repeat these 4 rows until all increases are done - at the same time continue working A.1 and after A.1 is done, continue back and forth -y ou will join in the round only after the stitches on thumb are put aside. Happy knitting!

10.11.2022 - 11:02

country flag Kita wrote:

I have made two pairs of these mittens now and they are lovely. I felt they did run a little small, and made large pairs for what are probably medium hands. Now I plan to knit a pair for a guy with XXL hands and there is just no way the large could be blocked to fit (I tried). Would adding the difference between small and large to the large size be a way to get a decent XXL mitten? So, if it says 56 for small and 62 for large, would 68 give XXL (continuing the pattern adjustments in this vain)?

21.11.2021 - 18:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kita, please understand that we cannot modify our patterns to each individual request. Having said that, if I would want to do this in a bigger size, i would probably try to do it with a bigger needle and thicker yarn generally bigger gauge, like Nepal instead of Lima. Happy Stitching!

21.11.2021 - 19:43

country flag Bente wrote:

Hei, Jeg strikker str M. Har satt et merke på maske 27, strikket 1 grå og skal så strikke mønster A1. Mønsteret er 21 masker og totalen blir da 49 masker. Men jeg har bare 48 masker på pinnen...?? I tillegg står det at jeg skal strikke grå - pinnen ut. Hvor mange grå masker skal jeg egentlig strikke etter mønsteret? Skal merket settes på en annen maske enn 27.?

27.01.2021 - 15:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Bente, Du har strikket 1 grå maske, skal strikke A.1 (mønster) i 21 masker og da blir det 26 grå masker til enden av pinnen. Merket markerer hvor tommeløkning skal være og er i det grå partiet. God fornøyelse!

28.01.2021 - 07:40

country flag Caroline wrote:

Hi I have never made a felted item. How do you actually felt the mittens please? Thank you.

02.12.2020 - 15:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Caroline, you will read more about felting here - and this video shows how to avoid a thumb to felt together on mittens. Happy felting!

02.12.2020 - 15:52

country flag Esther Lessard wrote:

Bonjour, J'aimerais faire les mitaines feutrées à un homme très grands et costaud. Est-ce possible d'avoir un patron plus grand ?

12.11.2019 - 18:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lessard, vous trouverez ici tous nos modèles de moufles feutrées, parmi lesquelles vous trouverez peut-être la bonne taille ou dont vous pourrez vous inspirer si besoin. Bon tricot!

13.11.2019 - 08:43

country flag Poppy wrote:

Hi, I love this pattern! I’m a bit confused, though. I’ve done “When piece measures 11 cm in all sizes, decrease 4 stitches evenly = 44 stitches.” But then it says to start the star at 10 cm and increase for the thumb at 11cm. Should I start the star first and then do the decrease and increase on the same line or is there a typo? Thanks, Poppy

18.03.2019 - 19:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Poppy, thank you for writing to us. The decrease of 4 stitches is for the overall shaping of the mittens so you do it evenly distributed on the round, while increasing for the thumb happens only at one place. As the patterns says "at the same time", so you are doing the two things at the same time. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting, thi is such a lovely project!

20.03.2019 - 11:26

country flag Anneli wrote:

Underbara vantar, jag älskar dom! Jag har stickat dom och tovat två gånger (först i 40 C och en gång till i 30 C) för att nå rätt storlek och är jättenöjd! Ett stort tack för fint garn och ett bra mönster! ❤️

29.01.2019 - 13:07

country flag Rachel Dyas wrote:

Thank you for your reply regarding the thumb length - I can see what I have done - misread when to start the decreases so the main bit pdf the mitten is too short - have unbound and ripped back to where I made the mistake. Thank you very much for getting back to me and in future I will knit with more haste and less speed :D

22.01.2019 - 14:13