DROPS / 184 / 9

Ornella by DROPS Design

Crochet circle jacket with double crochets and chain-spaces. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Lima.

DROPS Design: Pattern no li-082
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S/M - L - XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-750 g color 9018, sea green

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group B)" – see the link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 MM / H/8 – or the size needed to get 16 double crochets and 8 rows on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
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DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 2.85 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

CROCHET INFORMATION:
Every round of double crochets begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round (worked in addition to diagrams A.1 – A.5).

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches (e.g. 28 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 2) = 14.
In this example, increase by working 2 double crochets in every 14th stitch.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches (e.g. 64 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 4) = 16. In this example, work every 15th and 16th stitch together.
Decrease 1 double crochet by crocheting 2 double crochets together as follows: work 1 double crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on the hook), then work the next double crochet but when working the last pull-through, pull the strand through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 double crochet decreased).

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8.
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CIRCLE JACKET:
The piece is worked in the round in a circle and armholes are worked on the circle. Then the sleeves are worked in the round and the front pieces are worked back and forth. Finally, you work a finishing edge around the whole circle and front pieces. The start of the round = mid back/neck.

CIRCLE:
Work 6 chain stitches with hook size 5 mm / H/8 and Lima and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work A.1 a total of 13 repeats on the round - read CROCHET INFORMATION! REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When you have finished the next to last round in diagram A.1, continue as follows in the various sizes:

SIZES S/M AND L
There are now 182 stitches on the round and the piece measures approx. 36 cm / 14 1/4'' in diameter.
Now work the armholes and increase stitches evenly on round as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet/around each chain stitch over the first 28-28 stitches and increase 2-2 double crochets evenly – read INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced). Work 32-36 chain stitches, skip the next 32-36 stitches. Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet/around each chain stitch in the next 62-54 stitches and increase 9-9 double crochets evenly. Work 32-36 loose chain stitches and skip 32-36 stitches. Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet/around each chain stitch over the remaining 28-28 stitches and increase 2-2 double crochets evenly = 195-195 double crochets.
Now work A.2 (= 13 repeats on the round), BUT over the 32-36 new chain stitches, replace the double crochet on round 2 in diagram A.2 with 1 single crochet around the chain-stitch row. On the round after you have worked the armholes, there are a total of 52-52 chain-spaces on the round and 9-10 chain-spaces and 8-9 single crochets around the 32-36 chain stitches for the armholes. When the whole of A.2 has been completed in height, there are 78 chain-spaces on the round. The piece measures approx. 63 cm / 24 3/4'' in diameter.

SIZE XXL/XXXL
Work the last round in diagram A.1. Then work A.2 (= 13 repeats on the round). When you have completed the first 3 rounds, there are 234 stitches on the round and the piece measures approx. 45 cm / 17 3/4'. Now work the armholes and increase stitches evenly as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet/around each chain stitch over the first 36 stitches and increase 2 double crochets evenly – read INCREASE TIP evenly spaced). Work 40 chain stitches, skip the next 40 stitches. Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet/around each chain stitch in the next 82 stitches and increase 9 double crochets evenly. Work 40 chain stitches and skip 40 stitches. Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet/around each chain stitch over the remaining 36 stitches and increase 2 double crochets evenly = 247 double crochets. Continue with A.2, BUT over the 40 new chain stitches, replace the double crochet on the 5th round in diagram A.2 with 1 single crochet around the chain-stitch row. On the round after you have worked armholes, there are a total of 65 chain-spaces on the round and 11 chain-spaces and 10 single crochets around the 40 chain stitches for the armholes. When the whole of A.2 has been completed in height, there are 78 chain-spaces on the round. The piece measures approx. 63 cm / 24 3/4'' in diameter.

ALL SIZES:
Start on the 3rd round in the diagrams and work pattern as follows: Work * A.3, A.4 *, work from *-* a total of 13 times on the round. When A.4 has been completed in height, repeat the last 4 rounds in the diagram to finished length.
When the round marked with a star in diagram A.3 has been completed, sizes S/M and L are finished. For size XXL/XXXL continue until the whole of diagram A.3 has been completed in height. There are now 117-117-130 chain-spaces on the round. The piece measures approx. 91-91-101 cm / 35 3/4"-35 3/4"-39 3/4'' in diameter.

SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked in the round.
Start mid under the armhole and work 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet), work 64-72-80 double crochets evenly spaced in the double crochets/around the chain-spaces in the one armhole (= 32-36-40 double crochets along each side of the armhole). Now work from round 2 in diagram A.5 (a total of 16-18-20 repeats on the round), AT THE SAME TIME on the round with a black spot in the diagram, decrease 4 double crochets evenly along the round. Repeat the last 4 rounds in the diagram and decrease on the round with the black spot a total of 7-8-10 times in height = 36-40-40 double crochets on the round. Then work 3-3-1 more repeats of A.5 in height without decreasing double crochets. The sleeve measures approx. 51-56-56 cm / 20"-22"-22''. Cut and fasten the strand.

RIGHT SIDE PIECE:
Work short rows back and forth on the right front piece. Start in the first double crochet after the 16th-16th-18th chain-space from the beginning of the round and work from the right side. NOTE: In diagram A.6, A.7 and A.8 you work from the row with the arrow and in diagram A.3 you work from the row with the black square!
Work A.6 over the first 10 chain-spaces, work A.3 over 3 chain-spaces, work A.7 over the next 2-2-4 chain-spaces (= 2-2-4 repeats), work A.3 over the next 3 chain-spaces, work A.8 over the next 10 chain-spaces. Continue in this way, back and forth. When A.7 has been completed in height, repeat the last 4 rows in the diagram in height. When A.6 and A.8 have been completed in height and the row with the star in diagram A.3 has been completed, cut and fasten the strand.

LEFT SIDE PIECE:
Skip 29-29-34 chain-spaces along the bottom edge of the jacket and fasten the strand with 1 single crochet in the next double crochet. Then work the left front piece in the same way as the right front piece. There should be 29-29-34 chain-spaces between the front pieces along the bottom edge and 32-32-36 chain-spaces between the front pieces on the neck (= 16-16-18 chain-spaces on each side of the start of the round).

EDGE:
Now work a finishing edge around the whole circle as follows:
ROUND 1: Start at the beginning of the round (= at back of neck), work 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet), * 3 chain stitches, skip 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the next double crochet *, repeat from *-* to end of round, but along the edge of diagrams A.6 and A.8 skip approx. 2 cm / 3/4''. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
ROUND 2: Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet), * work 4 double crochets around the next chain-space, 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* to end of round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= work 6 chain stitches and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
= 1 chain stitch
= 1 double crochet in stitch
= 1 double crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
= start on this round!
= when this round has been completed, the circle in sizes S/M and L is finished - see description in text.
= on this round decrease double crochets evenly spaced - see description in text.
= 1 single crochet in stitch
= work 3 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 2 more double crochets in the same way, but when working the last pull-through, pull the strand through all the loops on the hook.
= black square, see explanation in the pattern text
= Half double crochet in stitch





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 184-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (18)

Manuela 03.09.2019 - 20:29:

Op de foto bij het model is de kraag in de nek maar kort. Bij mij wordt de kraag in de nek veel langer. Ik volg het patroon, wat doe ik fout?

DROPS Design 08.09.2019 kl. 18:02:

Dag Manuela,

De kraag in de nek aan de achterkant is vrij hoog, maar op de foto zit hij a.h.w. in elkaar gerold, waardoor het een korte nek lijkt. In werkelijkheid gaat hij mee met de ronding vanaf het voorpand. Dit kun je een beetje zien op de foto aan de voorkant.

Manuela 03.09.2019 - 20:25:

RECHTER KANT VAN HET WERK: Haak verkorte toeren heen en weer gehaakt op het rechter voorpand. Begin in het eerste stokje na de 16e-16e-18e lossenlus vanaf het begin van de toer en haak aan de goede kant. VRAAG: als je aan de goede kant van het werk door haakt dan is dit toch het linker voorpand en niet rechts?

DROPS Design 08.09.2019 kl. 18:08:

Dag Manuela,

,

Met de rechter kant van het werk, wordt de kant van het werk bedoeld, wanneer je het kledingstuk draagt. (Dus aan de kant van je rechter arm.)

Marcela 21.08.2019 - 20:48:

Después de terminar A.3 para la talla S/M, no hay 117 arcos, hay 156. Leyendo el patrón no dice en ningún momento que se tengan que hacer disminuciones. ¿Hay alguna corrección del patrón? O ¿Qué fue lo que hice mal?

DROPS Design 17.10.2019 kl. 20:30:

Hola Marcela. A.2 se termina con 78 arcos ( 13 repeticiones de 6 arcos), después trabajamos A.3 y A.4 y para la talla S/M terminamos con 117 arcos ( 13 repeticiones de 9 arcos de A.3 +A.4).

Mary 14.08.2019 - 17:48:

I tried to send a Q but got a weird - you are a spammer - response when I hit send. My Q is to check I understand the first 3 rounds of the pattern - I should be able to follow it from there if I am right. Begin with 6 chain circle, row 1 is 6 DC into circle and Row 2 is a DC and chain for each DC in previous round for total of 12 stitches. Is this correct?

DROPS Design 15.08.2019 kl. 09:31:

Dear Mary, A.1 should be repeated 13 times in widht, so that you should have a total of 13 dc at the end of 1st round, and a total of 26 sts (= 13 dc + 13 chains) at the end of 2nd round. Happy crocheting!

Caro 20.02.2019 - 10:52:

Bonjour, je fais ce gilet en taille L mais à la fin de A2 je me retrouve avec 94 arceaux...alors qu au niveau des emmenchures j ai bien les 52 arceaux + 10 arceaux et 9mailles serrees...je suis perdue...j ai vérifié et je ne trouve pas où j ai pu me tromper...merci

DROPS Design 20.02.2019 kl. 13:57:

Bonjour Caro, il est difficile de dire où vous avez pu vous tromper, vous devez répéter 13 fois A.2 au total tout le tour pour avoir 13 fois 6 arceaux au dernier tour de A.2 = 78 arceaux. Vérifiez après le tour des emmanchures que vous avez bien vos 13 répétitions en largeur en plaçant des marqueurs si besoin. Bon crochet!

Charlotte 28.01.2019 - 10:41:

Efter A1 i str L står der man har 182 masker. Men med A1’s sidste udtagninger er der 15x13 masker = 195 masker. Havde man ikke hæklet dobbelt i en maske i hver rapport på sidste omgang, var der 182. Så skal man ikke hækle den sidste omgang i A1 eller hvordan?

DROPS Design 30.01.2019 kl. 14:25:

Hei Charlotte. Det står i oppskriften: Når NÆST sidste omg i diagram A.1 er hæklet færdig, fortsættes der i de forskellige størrelser således.. Så du har altså ikke heklet siste omgang i A.1 enda, og har 182 staver på omgangen. God fornøyelse.

Jessica 13.12.2018 - 22:10:

Hallo, muss bei den Seitenteilen in A3 auch die Zunahme gearbeitet werden? Wenn ja müssen die Zunahme lt Abbildung im Diagramm gehäkelt werden? Also z.B. die erste Zunahme in A3 über die drei stäbchen der Vorreihe oder muss das Muster pro Reihe gehäkelt werden? Dies würde ja bedeuten, dass die erste zunehme sich verschiebt auf die letzten 4 Stäbchen der Vorreihe.

DROPS Design 14.12.2018 kl. 09:04:

Liebe Jessica, für die Vorderteile sollen Sie wie im Diagram gezeigt häkeln, dh in A.6 wird es abgenommen (verkürzte Reihen), dann in A.3 wird es zugenommen (A.3 ist zuerst über 3 Lm-Bögen gehäkelt aber die Maschenanzahl in A.3 wird zunehmen = 6 Lm-Bögen bei der Reihe mit dem Sternchen, mit A.7 häkeln Sie "gerade" (= Keine Zunahme), und dann in A.8 häkeln Sie verkürzte Reihen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Anne 22.10.2018 - 21:29:

Hallo, ich frage mich wie ich nach den 36LM weiterarbeiten soll? Muss ich die lm dann durch feste Maschen statt luftmaschenbögen ersetzen in A2? Und dann die nächste Runde auch mit fm statt Bögen? Muss in der ersten Bogenrunde 52 luftmaschenbögen entstehen?

DROPS Design 23.10.2018 kl. 09:37:

Liebe Anne, nach der Runde mit den 36 Lm für die Armlöcher häkeln Sie die 1. Reihe in A.2 insgesamt 13 x in der Runde, aber wenn sie A.2 um den Armlöcher häkeln, häkeln Sie 1 feste Masche anstatt 1 Stäbchen = in jedem 36-Lmbogen haben Sie je 10 Bögen und 9 feste Maschen (zwischen den Luftmaschenbogen häkeln Sie 1 Stäbchen wie im A.2 gezeigt = 52 Lmbögen) = 62 Luftmaschenbögen insgesamt am Ende der 1. Reihe in A.2. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Shalini 26.08.2018 - 15:17:

Can you tell how many rounds are there in A 1, A2, A3 and so on ? What stitch to do in each round.

DROPS Design 05.09.2018 kl. 13:22:

Dear Shalini, there are 15 rows in A.1: count from the row with the arrow to the last row in diagram - so that there are 10 rows in A.2, 15 rows in A.3 etc.. Happy crocheting!

Stephanie 02.04.2018 - 15:03:

Ich will mit A.3,A.4 anfangen(Größe S/M). Muss ich erst A.3 bis zum Stern fertig häkeln und dann mit A.4 weiter machen? Oder muss ich beide Diagramme kombinieren? Und wenn ich A.4 in der Höhe fertig habe, muss ich dann wirklich die 4 letzten Reihen von A.3 und A.4 nochmal häkeln, also 8 Reihen?

DROPS Design 03.04.2018 kl. 09:12:

Liebe Stephanie, wenn Sie A.3 und A.4 häkeln, häkeln Sie zuerst die dritte Reihe beide Diagramme, dh: *1. Reihe A.3 (= mit Pfeil), dann 1. Reihe A.4 (= mit Pfeil)* von *bis* die ganze Runde wiederholen, dann häkeln Sie 2. Reihe beide Diagramme bei der nächsten Runde und sw. Wenn A.4 fertig ist, von Anfang an (= mit Pfeil) wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

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