Le Petit Bûcheron by DROPS Design

Jumper with raglan and cables, worked top down for kids. Size 2 - 12 years Piece is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS design: Pattern me-031-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300-300-350-400-400 g colour no 31, forest green

Or use:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-200-250-250-250 g colour no 06, sea green

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm for rib – or size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan on each side of A.1 and A.2 in every transition between sleeves and body.

INCREASE 2 STITCHES BEFORE A.1 (only applies to size 2 years):
Work until 1 stitch remains before A.1:
Make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, work A.1. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE 2 STITCHES AFTER A.2 (only applies to size 2 years):
Work A.2, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE 1 STITCH BEFORE A.1/A.2 (applies to all sizes):
Work until A.1/A.2:
Make 1 yarn over, work A.1/A.2. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE 1 STITCH AFTER A.1/A.2 (applies to all sizes):
Work A.1/A.2, make 1 yarn over. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together (marker thread), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back. Work top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 84-88-92-92-96-96 stitches on a short circular needle size 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine or Sky. Knit 1 round, then work rib = knit 2/purl 2. Work 3 cm rib. Knit 1 round while decreasing 12-12-12-12-12-12 stitches evenly = 72-76-80-80-84-84 stitches. Then work as follows from mid back: Work 7-8-9-9-10-10 stitches in stocking stitch (= half back piece), A.1 (= 8 stitches), 6 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), A.2 (= 8 stitches), 14-16-18-18-20-20 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), A.1, 6 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), A.2, 7-8-9-9-10-10 stitches in stocking stitch (= half back piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue this pattern, AT THE SAME TIME begin increases for RAGLAN – see explanation above. NOTE! Increase differently on body and sleeves.

SIZE 2 YEARS:
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON FRONT/BACK PIECE:
Increase 4 stitches on back piece and 4 stitches on front piece (= 2 stitches before A.1/after A.2): Increase like this every other round 4 times.
Then increase 2 stitches on back piece and 2 stitches on front piece (= 1 stitch before A.1/after A.2): Increase like this every other round 12 times.

INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON SLEEVES:
Increase 2 stitches on each sleeve (= 1 stitch after A.1/before A.2): Increase every other round 14 times, then increase every 4th round 1 time (= 15 times in total).

SIZE 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years:
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON FRONT/BACK PIECE:
Increase 2 stitches on back piece and 2 stitches on front piece (= 1 stitch before A.1/after A.2): Increase every other round 21-22-24-24-26 times in total.

INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON SLEEVES:
Increase 2 stitches on each sleeve (= 1 stitch after A.1/before A.2): Increase every other round 11-12-12-12-12 times, then increase every 4th round 5-5-6-6-7 times (16-17-18-18-19 times in total).

ALL SIZES:
After all increases are done there are 212-224-236-248-252-264 stitches on round. Work pattern as before until piece measures 13-15-15-17-17-18 cm from mid back. Work next round as follows: Work the first 31-33-35-37-38-40 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 44-46-48-50-50-52 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 62-66-70-74-76-80 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 44-46-48-50-50-52 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches (= in the side under sleeve), work the last 31-33-35-37-38-40 stitches (= half back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 136-144-152-160-168-176 stitches. Continue working in stocking stitch over all stitches. When piece measures 17-19-23-25-29-32 cm from division, knit 1 round while increasing 28-28-32-32-36-36 stitches evenly = 164-172-184-192-204-212 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

SLEEVE:
Slip the stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles/a short circular needle size 4 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. When piece measures 3 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-3-3-3½-3½-4 cm 7-7-8-8-9-9 times in total = 36-38-38-40-40-42 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch until sleeve measures 19-22-26-30-35-39 cm. Knit 1 round while increasing 8-6-6-8-8-10 stitches evenly = 44-44-44-48-48-52 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures approx. 23-26-30-34-39-43 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.02.2018
New yarn amount on sizes 9/10 - 11/12 years:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
300-300-300-350-400-400 g colour no 31, forest green

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= slip 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3 stitches, work 3 stitches from cable needle
= slip 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3 stitches, work 3 stitches from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 30-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Alie 15.01.2020 - 12:04:

Hoe haal ik de 6 steken op bij begin van de mouw , die ik bij het pand bijgemaakt heb.

DROPS Design 17.01.2020 kl. 18:40:

Dag Alie,

Je steekt de naald door de eerste van de 6 steken, slaat de draad erom haalt deze door de steek. Op deze manier doe je dat bij alle 6 steken onder de mouw bij het lijf.

Sybille 13.01.2020 - 18:47:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, ich stricke den Pullover in der Größe für 3/4 Jahre. Nach allen Zunahmen bei der Passe komme ich auf 232 Maschen ( 76 Maschen nach den Abnahmen am Hals + 22 x 4 Maschen an Vorder- und Rücken Teil = 88 Maschen + 17 x 4 Maschen an den Ärmeln = 68 Maschen ergibt 232 Maschen. Wo ist mein Fehler? Oder stimmt die Anleitung nicht? Vielen Dank für Ihre Antwort und liebe Grüße Sybille

DROPS Design 14.01.2020 kl. 07:31:

Liebe Sybille, in der Größe 3/4 Jahre wird es für Raglan Rücken- und Vorderteil 21 Mal (22 Mal betrifft Grösse 5/6) + für die Ärmel 11+5 Mal (17 Mal betrifft Grösse 5/6) zugenommen. So haben Sie 76 +4x21 + 4x16= 224 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sue 15.12.2019 - 17:38:

I'm fine with "Merino Extra Fine" (for the "Petit Bucheron") but as I understand, it contains wool. What yarn should I order if I don't want it to have any wool? (And what's the easiest way to order it to the United States?)

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 08:48:

Dear Sue, try out our yarn converter to see the different alternatives - you will find here DROPS stores shipping to US - do not hesitate to contact them for any further individual assistance - even per mail. Happy knitting!

Shiva Gudrunsdatter Wollenberg 07.03.2019 - 12:43:

Pyha jeg er lidt forvirret, forstår jeg det korrekt, når jeg tager en m ud (på hveranden p) før og efter hver snoning? Eller er det 2 m? På forhånd tak.

DROPS Design 12.03.2019 kl. 09:05:

Hej, ja du tager ud på hver 2. omgang. I den mindste størrelse tager du 4 masker ud på både ryg og forstykke de første 4 gange. Men i de andre størrelser tager du 2 masker ud på både ryg og forstykke (altså 1 maske på hver side af alle snoninger - ialt 8 udtagninger) God fornøjelse!

Hend 03.02.2019 - 14:34:

Hello ...i'm doing the sweater back and forth and i'm at the stage after increases , where i'm having trouble with slipping the sleeve stitches as they are at the beginning of my row .. should i cut the yarn ? Is there any other way ? Thanks a lot.

DROPS Design 04.02.2019 kl. 12:33:

Dear Hend, you can then work 1 row over the sts on sleeve before slipping them on a thread. Happy knitting!

Hend 30.01.2019 - 14:31:

Hello.. can it be knitted back and forth NOT in the round ? Would there be any changes to the pattern ? Thanks in advance .

DROPS Design 30.01.2019 kl. 16:17:

Dear Hend, you will find here relevant informations for adjusting a pattern into straight needles. Happy knitting!

Maria Cavallaro 27.01.2019 - 16:30:

Vorrei sapere in che modo aumentare in maniera diversa sul davanti /dietro e sulle maniche Grazie

DROPS Design 27.01.2019 kl. 19:12:

Buonasera Maria, per gli aumenti deve seguire le indicazioni riportate per le diverse taglie: è spiegato come aumentare sul corpo e sulle maniche. Buon lavoro!

Ute 18.04.2018 - 21:01:

Ich möchte den schönen Pulli für einen kleinen Jungen stricken. Auf der Schemazeichnung schauts so aus, als wäre das Rückenteil ein wenig höher als das Vorderteil. Beide gleich hoch mag ich bei mir nicht. Aber nach der Anleitung ist das Vorder- und das Rückenteil gleich, oder irre ich mich? Danke für ein bißchen Hilfe.

DROPS Design 19.04.2018 kl. 09:33:

Liebe Ute, in diesem Modell werden beide Vorder- und Rückenteil gleich hoch. Einige verkürtzten Reihen für eine Erhöhung können Sie auch stricken, hier finden Sie einige Modellen mit Erhöhung von denen Sie sich inspirieren können. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Emilie JOUBERT 02.02.2018 - 22:47:

Bonsoir, j'ai commandé 7 pelotes(350g) de merino extra fine, pour faire la taille 12 ans, comme préconisé, et j'ai pu tricoter le pull entier, sauf....une manche entière!!😱 mon échantillon est parfait et les dimensions du pull parfaites. Je vais devoir refaire une commande pour une pelote voire deux et payer le port...

DROPS Design 05.02.2018 kl. 08:50:

Bonjour Mme Joubert, merci pour l'information, nos stylistes vont vérifier de leur côté. Bon tricot!

Emilie JOUBERT 24.01.2018 - 18:48:

Bonjour, n'y aurait-il pas une faute au début de l'empiècement il est dit que l'on doit prendre les aig n 4 pour faire le col en côtes 2/2. ?? N'est-ce pas plutôt les aig 3,5?

DROPS Design 25.01.2018 kl. 08:10:

Bonjour Mme Joubert, les côtes du col se tricotent en 4, mais celles du bas du pull et des manches se tricotent en 3,5. Bon tricot!

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