Perkins by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with false Fisherman’s rib and raglan for kids in DROPS BabyMerino or DROPS Safran. Size 2 - 12 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no bm-010-bn
Yarn group A
Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour no 42, petrol

Or use:
DROPS Safran from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-350-400-400 g colour no 51, petrol

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm for rib – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. 

See diagram A.1.

Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread. Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes - work the increased stitches in A.1.

Decrease for raglan in every transition between sleeves and body. 
Begin 3 stitches before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 100 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 19) = 5.3.
In this example knit approx. every 4th and 5th stitch together.

Worked in the round on circular needle.

Cast on 156-168-174-186-192-204 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino or Safran. Knit 1 round, then work rib as follows: purl 1, * knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 stitches remain on round, finish with knit 1 and purl 1. Continue rib like this for 4 cm. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work A.1 in the round over all stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 20-23-26-29-32-35 cm, work next round as follows: Cast off 4 stitches for armhole, work 70-76-79-85-88-94 stitches (= front piece), cast off 8 stitches for armhole, work 70-76-79-85-88-94 stitches (= back piece) and cast off the last 4 stitches on needle for armhole. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

Work in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.
Cast on 42-42-42-48-48-48 stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino or Safran. Knit 1 round, then work rib as follows: purl 1, * knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 stitches remain on round, finish with knit 1 and purl 1. Continue rib like this for 4 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work A.1 in the round over all stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). When piece measures 6 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read INCREASE TIP! Repeat increase every 2½-2½-2½-3-3-2½ cm 7-9-10-9-11-13 times in total = 56-60-62-66-70-74 stitches. When piece measures approx. 23-28-31-35-39-42 cm (adjust to finish on same round in A.1 as on body), cast off 8 stitches mid under sleeve (cast off 4 stitches on each side of marker thread) = 48-52-54-58-62-66 stitches. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off (without working the stitches first) = 236-256-266-286-300-320 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker thread in all transitions between sleeves and body piece (= 4 marker threads). 

Continue pattern in the round as before. Work in the round over all stitches for 2 cm. On next round decrease for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 stitches decreased). Continue decrease for raglan every other round until decrease has been done 17-19-20-22-24-26 times in total on each side of all marker threads.
After all decreases for raglan there are 100-104-106-110-108-112 stitches on needle and piece measures approx. 36-40-44-48-52-56 cm up to shoulder.

Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH in the round over all stitches, AT THE SAME TIME on first round in ridge decrease 19-17-13-11-6-7 stitches evenly – read DECREASE TIP = 81-87-93-99-102-105 stitches. Work rib = knit 1/purl 2 for 3 cm, then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Sew the openings under the sleeves.


= knit
= purl
= insert right needle through stitch from previous round, knit 1 and slip stitch off the needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 30-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (52)

Ans Quaedackers 16.02.2020 - 19:01:

Ik begrijp het A.1 patroon niet. Wat wordt daar precies mee bedoeld?

DROPS Design 20.02.2020 kl. 21:03:

Dag Ans,

Je breit de eerste naald van A.1 als volgt: 1 averecht, voeg de rechter naald in bij de steek van de vorige naald, brei1 recht en laat de steek van de naald af glijden, 1 averecht en dit herhaal je steeds over het gedeelte waar A.1 gebreid moet worden volgens de beschrijving.

De tweede naald van A.1 brei je als volgt: 1 averecht, 1 recht, 1 averecht. Dit herhaal je oook steeds.

De derde naald van A.1 is hetzelfde als de eerste naald en de vierde is hetzelfde als de tweede naald.

Cecile 26.12.2019 - 15:26:

Hallo, ik ben inmiddels de mouwen af en moet ze nu op de rondbreinaald erbij gaan zetten. Ik twijfel echter of ik de mouwen wel goed heb afgerond; daar zit namelijk nog een draad aan met bolletje wol. Die heb ik straks niet meer nodig, want dan pak ik de draad van de rondbreinaald van de romp. Had ik de draad door de laatste steek moeten halen bij de mouwen? Maar dan kom ik uit op 47 steken... Ik hoop dat iemand mij verder kan helpen. Alvast bedankt!

DROPS Design 19.01.2020 kl. 19:00:

Dag Cecile,

Als je de kleinste maat breit, moet je op 48 steken uitkomen voor de mouw, voordat je ze samen met het lijf op de rondbreinaald zet. De afgekante steken van de mouw moeten midden onder de mouw zitten, zodat je aan beide kanten van de kop van de mouw 24 steken hebt.

Cecile 29.11.2019 - 11:15:

Hallo, Ik loop precies tegen hetzelfde aan als Elly bij het meerderen bij de mouwen. Ik heb dan niet meer het aantal steken om een mooi A1 patroon te maken. Is het de bedoeling dat ik eemalig vier steken averecht brei (inclusief gemeerdere steken) tussen de rechte steken in? En hoe moet het dan bij de volgende meerdering? want ook dan leent het aantal steken zich niet voor een A1 patroon. Ik hoop dat u mij verder kunt helpen.

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 12:46:

Dag Cecile,

Het lukt inderdaad niet om het A.1 patroon precies door te laten lopen, maar probeer het A.1 patroon zo goed mogelijk door te laten lopen, het geeft niet dat het halverwege (bijv. bij een rechte steek) stopt.

Elly 24.11.2019 - 21:57:

Hallo, ga nu meerderen bij de mouw maar het patroon A1 loopt dan niet door (krijg 4 steken terwijl A1 uit 3 steken bestaat. Probeerde met 1re steek in het midden bij te maken zodat A1 wel doorloopt maar loop dan na 2 cm voor de volgende meerdering weer vast. Wat doe ik verkeerd? Hoop dat u kunt helpen.

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 08:44:

Dag Elly,

Het is de bedoeling dat je bij het meerderen onder de mouwen het patroon zo goed mogelijk door laat lopen, dus de gemeerderde steek brei je in de steek van A.1 die dan aan de beurt is zodat het patroon mooi doorloopt. Het is niet nodig dat je een meervoud van 3 steken op de naald hebt.

Kirsten 14.11.2019 - 10:33:

Jeg tænkte på at strikke modellen helt i rib, str. 2 år. Vil det ændre på målene og garnforbruget?

DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 13:47:

Hei Kristen. Ja, det kan det. mvh DROPS design

Saskia 04.11.2019 - 23:27:

Hej. Första gången jag följer mönster så kanske en fråga med ett självklart svar. Ska börja med A1 nu som i varv 1 beskrivs som AVIG - RÄT - AVIG. Fortsätter det sen med AVIG - RÄT - AVIG igen (så att det blir två aviga bredvid varandra?). Eller följer är det varannan AVIG varannan RÄT? Tacksam för hjälp🙏🏼✨

DROPS Design 05.11.2019 kl. 10:58:

Hej Saskia, kom ihåg att du stickar efter ett diagram nerifrån höger hörn mot vänster. Se här: Hur man läser stickdiagram ja du börjar om efter de 3 m, am,rm,am,am,rm, am osv Lycka till :)

Agnès 25.10.2019 - 12:10:

Re😊 ,juste pour vous remercier de la rapidité de vôtre réponse, je vais pouvoir avancer ce week-end et peut-être terminer 🤔😊🐑🐕🐑

Agnès 25.10.2019 - 07:01:

Bonjour, comment intégrer les augmentations au motif? 🤔 . Je n'ai pas compris la réponse apportée plus haut à Marina tricoteuse italienne 😕. Merci de votre attention et de votre aide 😊🐑 Agnès 🐑

DROPS Design 25.10.2019 kl. 09:55:

Bonjour Agnès,on augmente de chaque côté de la 1ère m du tour = 1 m env (1ère m de A.1), 1ère augmentation: tricotez les 2 jetés à l'env, 2ème augmentation: tricotez le 1er jeté comme la 2ème m de A.1 et le 2ème jeté (après le marqueur) comme 1 m env, 3ème augmentation: tricotez le 1er jeté à l'env et le 2ème jeté comme la 2ème m de A.1 et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

Karin Jarzina 20.09.2019 - 17:13:

Liebes Drops Team Wenn ich bei der Raglanabnahme in jeder 2. Runde 17 mal abnehme komme ich nicht auf eine Gesamtlänge von 36 cm. Was habe ich nicht beachtet?

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 08:02:

Liebe Frau Jarzina, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe? Die Arbeit soll 36 cm vom Schulter messen, vom Halsausschnitt soll sie etwas kürzer sein (= ca 33 cm - siehe Maßskizze). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Claire Wilson 18.09.2019 - 11:12:

Would it be possible to adapt the pattern to knit flat? I’ve not knit in the round before!

DROPS Design 18.09.2019 kl. 13:06:

Dear Mrs Wilson, you will read more about how to adapt a pattern into straight needles here. Happy knitting!

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