DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Morgan's Daughter Vest

Knitted vest with shawl collar, cables and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Flora.

DROPS 179-13
DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-013
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 07, beige
Or use:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
450-500-600-650-700-750 g colour 07, light beige

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.

DROPS COCONUT BUTTONS NO 515: 4-4-4-5-5-5 items.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Vests Open Front Vests Aran Knitting a-shape cable shawl collar top down v-neck waist shaping

UK
Ireland

DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

KNITTING TIP (for the band):
To prevent the band contracting in height, you can regularly work an extra ridge over just the band stitches (the other stitches remain on the needle while you work the ridge over the band). Repeat this every 5 cm to finished length.

INCREASE TIP-1:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches the increases are to be made over (e.g. 34 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 13) = 2.6.
In this example, increase alternately after every 2nd and 3rd stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next row work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for the armhole):
All increases are made from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over twisted to prevent a hole.

INCREASE TIP-3 (for sides in body):
All increases are made from the right side!
Start 4 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch stocking stitch, work A.6 (= 6 stitches, the marker thread sits in the middle of A.6), work 1 stitch stocking stitch, make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

BUTTONHOLE:
Cast off for the buttonholes in the right band (when the garment is worn). In other words, work from the right side until there are 4 stitches left at the end of the row, cast off 2 stitches and knit the last stitch. On the next row cast on 2 new stitches over the cast-off stitches from the previous row (= hole).
The first buttonhole is worked when the piece measures 30-30-32-32-34-34 cm from the shoulder (i.e. when the decreases outermost on the shawl collar have been completed). Then work the 3-3-3-4-4-4 next buttonholes with approx. 8-8-8-7-7-7 cm between each.
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VEST:
The front and back pieces are worked separately back and forth with circular needle, top down. When the increases for the armholes have been completed, put the parts together and the body is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front to finished length.

SHAWL COLLAR ON LEFT FRONT PIECE (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Flora. Work GARTER STITCH – see description above, as follows: * 1 ridge back and forth over all the stitches, 1 ridge back and forth over the first 20-20-22-22-24-24 stitches towards mid front *, repeat from *-* until the shawl collar measures 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm along the shortest side.
Knit 1 row from the right side and cast on 34-34-34-34-38-38 stitches for the shoulder at the end of this row (where the shawl collar is shortest) = 60-60-62-62-68-68 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side (over all the stitches). Now work the left front piece as described below.

LEFT FRONT PIECE WITH SHAWL COLLAR:
= 60-60-62-62-68-68 stitches on the needle. The first row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches in garter stitch over the shawl collar, knit the remaining 34-34-34-34-38-38 stitches and, at the same time. increase 13 stitches in all sizes evenly over these stitches - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 73-73-75-75-81-81 stitches. Work back from the wrong side with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, purl 44-44-44-44-48-48 stitches and knit 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches.
Continue as follows from the right side: 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches in garter stitch over the shawl collar, work A.1 (= 44-44-44-44-48-48 stitches) and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Insert 1 marker thread after the 2 first stitches in A.1 (seen from the right side – i.e. just after a small cable) – allow the marker thread to follow your work.
Continue the pattern in this way, at the same time decrease the shawl collar to a band, increase to armhole and increase to neckline as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION:
When the piece measures 11-11-12-12-11-11 cm from the shoulder, decrease 1 stitch outermost on the shawl collar by knitting together the second and third stitch at the beginning of the row from the right side. Decrease in this way every 6th row a total of 3-3-3-3-4-4 times, every 4th row a total of 7-7-7-7-8-8 times and then every 2nd row a total of 10-10-12-12-12-12 times. After the last decrease to the band, there are 6 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front and the piece measures approx.30-30-32-32-34-34 cm from the shoulder down.
ARMHOLE:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 16-15-16-13-13-11 cm increase 1 stitch to armhole before the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch at the end of the row from the right side – read INCREASE TIP-2 (i.e. the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch). Increase in this way every 2nd row a total of 4-8-8-14-16-20 times, then cast on 3-4-6-6-8-10 new stitches towards armhole at the end of the next row from the right side = 7-12-14-20-24-30 stitches increased to armhole.
The piece now measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm from the shoulder down. Work back from the wrong side with knit 6-7-9-9-11-13 stitches, purl 4-8-8-14-16-20 stitches, A.1, A.2 as described under NECKLINE and knit over the shawl collar as before.
Lay the piece to one side and continue with SHAWL COLLAR ON RIGHT FRONT PIECE and RIGHT FRONT PIECE WITH SHAWL COLLAR, but be aware that the increase to NECKLINE which is described below, starts at the same time or before the piece is lain to one side.
NECKLINE:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 19-19-20-20-22-22 cm from the shoulder, increase to neckline after the marker thread as shown in A.2A, i.e. the next row from the right side is worked as follows: work garter stitch over the shawl collar as before, work A.2A and increase as shown in the diagram, continue A.1, continue the increases to armhole as described above and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. The first two stitches in A.1 now become A.2A. NOTE: Work the cable on the same row in A.2A as in A.1.
After the last increase to neckline, the piece measures approx. 28-28-30-30-32-32 cm from the shoulder down and you have increased 12-12-14-14-14-14 stitches to neckline.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work garter stitch over shawl collar/band, continue A.2B over A.2A (= 14-14-16-16-16-16 stitches), continue A.1 (the 2 first stitches in A.1 are the same as the 2 first stitches in A.2 and have already been worked), work stocking stitch over the increased stitches by the armhole and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.

SHAWL COLLAR ON RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when the piece is worn):
Cast on 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 row. Then work garter stitch as follows: * work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches, 1 ridge back and forth over the first 20-20-22-22-24-24 stitches towards mid front *, repeat from *-* until the shawl collar measures 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm along the shortest side.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side and cast on 34-34-34-34-38-38 stitches to shoulder at the end of this row (where the shawl collar is shortest) = 60-60-62-62-68-68 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side (over all stitches). Then work right front piece with shawl collar as described below.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE WITH SHAWL COLLAR:
= 60-60-62-62-68-68 stitches on the row. The first row is worked as follows from the right side: Knit the first 34-34-34-34-38-38 stitches and at the same time increase 13 stitches in all sizes evenly over these stitches, work 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches garter stitch over the shawl collar = 73-73-75-75-81-81 stitches. Work back from the wrong side with knit 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches, purl 44-44-44-44-48-48 stitches and knit 3 edge stitches.
Continue as follows from the right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.3 (= 44-44-44-44-48-48 stitches) and finish with 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches in garter stitch over the shawl collar. Insert 1 marker thread before the 2 last stitches in A.3 (seen from the right side – i.e. just before a small cable) – allow the marker thread to follow your work. Continue the pattern in this way, at the same time decrease the shawl collar to a band, increase to armhole and increase to neckline as described below.
BAND:
When the piece measures 11-11-12-12-11-11 cm from the shoulder, decrease 1 stitch outermost on the shawl collar by knitting together the last third and second stitches at the end of the row from the right side. Decrease in this way every 6th row a total of 3-3-3-3-4-4 times, every 4th row a total of 7-7-7-7-8-8 times and then every 2nd row a total of 10-10-12-12-12-12 times. After the last decrease to the band, there are 6 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front and the piece measures approx. 30-30-32-32-34-34 cm from the shoulder down.
ARMHOLE:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 16-15-16-13-13-11 cm increase 1 stitch to armhole after the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch at the beginning of the next row from the right side – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase in this way every 2nd row a total of 4-8-8-14-16-20 times, then cast on 3-4-6-6-8-10 new stitches towards armhole at the end of the next row from the wrong side = 7-12-14-20-24-30 stitches increased to armhole. The piece now measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm from the shoulder down.
Lay the piece to one side and continue with RIGHT SHOULDER BACK, but be aware that the increases to NECKLINE as described below, starts at the same time or before the piece is lain to one side.
NECKLINE:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures approx. 19-19-20-20-22-22 cm from the shoulder, increase to neckline before the marker thread as shown in A.4A, i.e. the next row from the right side is worked as follows: Work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, continue the increase to armhole as described above, continue A.3 to the marker thread, work A.4A and increase as shown in the diagram and finish with garter stitch over the shawl collar as before. The 2 last stitches in A.3 are now part of A.4A. NOTE: Work the cable on the same row in A.4A as in A.3.
After the last increase to neckline, the piece measures approx. 28-28-30-30-32-32 cm from the shoulder down.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work stocking stitch over the increased stitches by the armhole, continue A.3 (the last 2 stitches in A.3 are the same as the last 2 stitches in A.4B and are worked when A.4B is worked), continue A.4B over A.4A (= 14-14-16-16-16-16 stitches) and finish with garter stitch over the shawl collar/band.

RIGHT SHOULDER BACK (when the garment is worn):
Cast 34-34-34-34-38-38 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 13 stitches in all sizes evenly on row = 47-47-47-47-51-51 stitches. Work back from the wrong side with knit 3 edge stitches and purl 44-44-44-44-48-48 stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: work A.1 (= 44-44-44-44-48-48 stitches) and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. When you have worked 2 rows in A.1 cast on 2 stitches at the end of the last row to the neck (the new stitches are purled from the right side and knitted from the wrong side). Work 2 more rows in A.1 and AT THE SAME TIME cast on 24-24-28-28-28-28 new stitches at the end of the last row to the neck = 73-73-77-77-81-81 stitches on the row. Lay the piece to one side and work left shoulder back as described below.

LEFT SHOULDER BACK (when the piece is worn):
Cast on 34-34-34-34-38-38 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 13 stitches in all sizes evenly on row = 47-47-47-47-51-51 stitches. Purl 44-44-44-44-48-48 stitches back from the wrong side and knit 3 edge stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, then work A.3 (= 44-44-44-44-48-48 stitches). When you have worked 3 rows in A.3 cast on 2 stitches at the end of the last row to neck = 49-49-49-49-53-53 stitches. Work back from the wrong side with knit 2, A.3 and knit 3 edge stitches.
Now work the left and right shoulders together to the back piece as described below.

BACK PIECE:
Place the stitches from the two shoulders on the same circular needle size 3 mm (the 24-24-28-28-28-28 stitches which were cast on to the neck on the right shoulder back = mid back of neck) = 122-122-126-126-134-134 stitches on the row.
The first row from the right side is worked as follows: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, continue A.3 over the next 44-44-44-44-48-48 stitches, work A.5 over the next 28-28-32-32-32-32 stitches, continue A.1 over the next 44-44-44-44-48-48 stitches and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern in this way and increase to armhole as described below.
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 16-15-16-13-13-11 cm increase 1 stitch in each side to armhole as on the front pieces, i.e. increase from the right side after the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch at the beginning of the row and before the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch at the end of the row. Increase in this way every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 4-8-8-14-16-20 times, then cast on 3-4-6-6-8-10 new stitches at the end of the 2 next rows = 136-146-154-166-182-194 stitches and the piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm from the shoulder down.
Now work the front and back pieces together as described below.

BODY:
Place the stitches from the left front piece (seen from the right side) on the needle without working the stitches, insert 1 marker thread (= in the side), place the stitches from the back piece on the needle, insert 1 marker thread (= in the side) and place the stitches from the right front piece on the needle. Continue pattern as before, Continue the increases to neckline as before and continue the decreases to the bands as before. In other words, the first row is worked as follows from the right side: Work garter stitch over the shawl collar/band with decreases, if necessary, as before, continue A.2 and A.1, work 4-8-8-14-16-20 stitches stocking stitch, 12-14-18-18-22-26 stitches garter stitch (the marker thread in the side sits in the middle of these 12-14-18-18-22-26 stitches), work 4-8-8-14-16-20 stitches stocking stitch, continue A.3, A.5 and A.1 over the back piece, work 4-8-8-14-16-20 stitches stocking stitch, 12-14-18-18-22-26 stitches garter stitch (the marker thread in the side sits in the middle of these 12-14-18-18-22-26 stitches), work 4-8-8-14-16-20 stitches stocking stitch, continue A.3 and A.4 as before and finish with garter stitch over the shawl collar/band with decreases, if necessary, as before.
Continue the pattern in this way, but when you have worked 2 ridges over the middle 12-14-18-18-22-26 stitches in each side, work as follows from the right side: Work garter stitch over the shawl collar/band with decreases, if necessary, as before, continue A.2 and A.1 as before, work 7-12-14-20-24-30 stitches stocking stitch, work A.6 (= 6 stitches, the marker thread sits in the middle of A.6), work 7-12-14-20-24-30 stitches stocking stitch, continue A.3, A.5 and A.1 as before, work 7-12-14-20-24-30 stitches stocking stitch, work A.6 (the marker thread sits in the middle of A.6), work 7-12-14-20-24-30 stitches stocking stitch, continue A.3 and A.4 as before and finish with garter stitch over the shawl collar/band with decreases if necessary as before.
After all the increases to neckline and decreases to the bands have been completed, there are 280-300-316-340-372-396 stitches on the row. Read KNITTING TIP and continue working until the piece measures 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm from the shoulder.
On the next row from the right side increase 2 stitches in each side – read INCREASE TIP-3 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 6th row (approx. every 2 cm) until finished length (if the knitting tension is correct in height, this is equivalent to 21 increases in each side).
When the piece measures 71-73-75-77-79-81 cm there are approx. 364-384-400-424-456-480 stitches on the row.
On the next row from the right side, knit the stitches in each cable together 2 and 2 (only on the cables, not the purled or stocking stitch sections) = approx. 312-332-348-372-404-428 stitches.
Work 3 ridges back and forth over all stitches and loosely cast off with knit from the right side, but to prevent the cast-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after every 8th stitch at the same time as casting off (the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches). The whole vest measures approx. 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm from the shoulder down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-on edge.
Sew the shawl collar together mid back and make sure the seam turns in to the wrong side, when the collar is turned down. Sew the shawl collar to the neckline back of neck.
Sew on the buttons.

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next row work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes
	= knit 2 together
	= place 1 stitch on cable needle at back of piece, knit 1, knit stitch from cable needle
	= place 1 stitch on cable needle at back of piece, knit 2, purl stitch from cable needle
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle at back of piece, knit 2, knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit the 2 stitches from cable needle
	= marker thread

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

Anna wrote:

Storlek L: Jag ska lägga upp 28 m och sticka rätstickning i 2 v över de 28 m. Sedan ska jag sticka rätstickning över 22 m i 8 cm. Vad händer med de 6 m som inte blir stickade? Vad menas med den kortaste sidan - är det mot mitt fram eller där jag har 6 m som inte har blivit stickade?

27.02.2024 - 20:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anna. Du stickar förkortade varv (se gärna våra videor längre ner på sidan) när du stickar växelvis över alla maskor och växelvis bara över 22 maskor. Du upprepar alltså detta " 2 varv rätstickning fram och tillbaka över alla maskorna, 2 varv rätstickning fram och tillbaka över de första 20-20-22-22-24-24 maskorna mot mitt fram" tills arbetet mäter 8 cm längst den kortaste sidan, dvs den sidan som du inte stickar hela varvet ut varannan gång. Mvh DROPS Design

28.02.2024 - 07:38

Monika wrote:

Czy schematy w tym projekcie pokazują rzędy po obu stronach pracy? Czyli czy jak zaczynam czytać schemat od prawej strony do lewej, to gdy dojdę do końca rzędu kolejny rząd czytam ze schematu od lewej do prawej?

29.01.2024 - 16:57

Witaj Moniko, schematy pokazują wszystkie rzędy robótki (widok na prawej stronie robótki). Jak czytać schematy znajdziesz TUTAJ. Patrz część kursu, w której robótka jest przerabiana w tę i z powrotem. W razie dodatkowych pytań proszę pisać. Pozdrawiamy!

29.01.2024 - 18:31

Geraldine wrote:

Buenas tardes , soy nueva en esto y antes tenia otro modelo de patrón de drops , pero no logro entender por donde comenzar el tejido . En resumen que debo hacer primero para una talla xl ?

21.08.2023 - 01:35

Hola Geraldine, la talla XL se corresponde a la 4ª talla en el patrón. Por lo tanto, cuando tengas secuencias de números, tendrás que trabajar el 4º número de la secuencia. Por ejemplo, empiezas montando 28 puntos, trabajas 1 pliegue sobre todos los puntos y 1 pliegue sobre los 22 puntos centrales y repites estos 2 pliegues hasta que el cuello chal mida 8 cm por el lado más corto. Continúa trabajando como se explica en el patrón. También puedes leer la siguiente lección para más ayuda sobre cómo trabajar los patrones: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=79&cid=23.

27.08.2023 - 22:39

Ina Jensen wrote:

Forstår ikke dette: Det er starten af sjalskraven Slå 26-26-28-28-30-30 masker op på rundpind 3 med Flora eller Nord. Strik RETSTRIK – se forklaring over, således: * 2 p retstrik frem og tilbage over alle masker, 2 p retstrik frem og tilbage over de første 20-20-22-22-24-24 masker mod midt foran. I skriver at man slår 26 masker op. Men ved pind 3 skal man kun strikke retstrik i de 20 masker. Hvad med de resterende 6 masker? Håber i kan forklare det.

20.05.2023 - 22:17

Hej Ina, det bliver vendepinde, så du strikker flere pinde over de yderste masker mod halsen til du kommer til skulderen hvor du skal slå masker op i den anden side (den side hvor du har strikket færrest pinde) :)

23.05.2023 - 11:16

Suzanne Crosier wrote:

I'm still really confused by this pattern. I'm starting on body section where you put all sections back on needles my question is when it states continue with A2 and A3 do I just continue and repeat last 2 rows of A2? Or if I start chart over then I still have to knit last row of A2 because those stitches are on needle. I hope I explained things clearly.

10.03.2023 - 22:05

Dear Suzanne, just continue as you have knit before (the last two roes). Happy Knitting!

12.03.2023 - 15:45

Hi, I hope I can explain my question so you can understand. I'm at the point where I'm putting all pieces back on needles and starting body. Pattern states all charts in order of how they are worked. When it states to continue with A2A and A4A do I just repeat the last row over until end of project or do I start over at the beginning of A2A and A4A? Thanks

16.02.2023 - 02:25

Hi Suzanne, You repeat all rows in the charts, from the bottom upwards. Happy crafting!

16.02.2023 - 06:54

Annie wrote:

Bonjour, jusqu\\\'ou doit on faire les rangs raccourcis pour le col du n)179-13

20.01.2023 - 13:01

Bonjour Annie, on tricote les rangs raccourci du col jusqu'à ce qu'il mesure 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm le long du côté le plus court (il fera le double de l'autre côté). Bon tricot!

20.01.2023 - 16:43

Liz wrote:

When A.1 had been completed one time (20 rows), should I go back to the first row to continue the pattern? There are some stitches sticking up on top after the last row. They are the 4 stitches above the 2/2 cables. How should those be knitted? Thanks.

10.09.2022 - 05:52

Dear Liz, when A.1 has been done in height, start again from 1st row but the cable over 4 sts will have to be worked as before on every 6th row, ie this cable is worked over a different number of rows. Happy knitting!

12.09.2022 - 09:28

Charlotte wrote:

Hi there. What does the size range S to XXXL equate to in say UK sizes or inches/ cm. I'd love to knit this but can't figure out how much wool I'd need. Thank you Drops : )

31.03.2021 - 19:06

Dear Charlotte, you can find the finished measurements on the scematic drawing at the bottom of the instructions. We suggest you take a sweater that is comfortable (and possiblly similar style) and compare the measurements. The amount of wool needed to knit this pattern is given in the pattern. Happy Knitting!

01.04.2021 - 09:49

Maxant wrote:

Bonjour, Que fait on des 6 mailles qui restent sur le col châle, quand on tricote les 20 mailles du milieu. Merci bonne journée

18.04.2020 - 13:53

Bonjour Mme Maxant, on tricote des rangs raccourcis sur les 26 mailles du col, ainsi, quand on tricote 2 rangs sur les 20 premières mailles seulement, on va laisser les 6 dernières mailles non tricotées et on aura ainsi 4 rangs sur les 20 premières mailles et 2 seulement sur les 26 mailles. On forme ainsi une démarcation qui permettra au col de se plier à ce niveau-là. Bon tricot!

20.04.2020 - 09:41