DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g

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Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Morgan's Daughter

Knitted jumper with cables and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Flora.

DROPS 179-3
DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-019
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g colour 07, beige

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 2.5 MM for rib on the sleeves and garter stitch edge in neck – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for the cables.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers Aran Knitting a-shape assembly free cable round neck sewn in sleeves top down waist shaping

UK
Ireland

DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. Choose diagram for your size.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches to be increased over (e.g. 26 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 3.25.
In this example, increase after approx. every 3rd stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next row work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for the armholes):
All increases are made from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

INCREASE TIP-3 (for sides of body):
Start 4 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch stocking stitch, work A.8 (= 6 stitches, the marker thread sits in the middle of A.8), work 1 stitch stocking stitch, make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve):
Start 5 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, work A.8 (= 6 stitches, the marker thread sits in the middle of A.8), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
The front and back pieces are worked separately back and forth with circular needle and top down. When the increases to armholes have been completed, the pieces are worked together and the body is worked in the round with circular needle to finished length.
The sleeves are worked back and forth with short circular needle, top down until the sleeve cap has been completed, then are worked in the round with short circular needle to finished length, but change to double pointed needles when you have decreased enough stitches.

LEFT SHOULDER FRONT (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Flora. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the right side where you, at the same time, increase 8 stitches in all sizes evenly on row – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 34-34-36-36-38-38 stitches. Work back from the wrong side with knit 3 edge stitches and purl 31-31-33-33-35-35 stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.1 (= 31-31-33-33-35-35 stitches) and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the side. Continue the pattern in this way. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When you have worked 10 rows in A.1 cast on new stitches to neck at the end of each row from the wrong side as shown in A.1, i.e. cast on 1 stitch 3 times and 2 stitches 3 times = 43-43-45-45-47-47 stitches. When A.1 has been completed, cast on 34 new stitches to neck at the end of the last row from the wrong side = 77-77-79-79-81-81 stitches. The piece measures approx. 8 cm from the cast-on edge. Lay the piece to one side and work right shoulder front as described below.

RIGHT SHOULDER FRONT (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the right side and, at the same time, increase 8 stitches in all sizes evenly on row = 34-34-36-36-38-38 stitches. Work back from the wrong side with purl 31-31-33-33-35-35 stitches and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.2 (= 31-31-33-33-35-35 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way. When you have worked 11 rows in A.2 cast on new stitches to neck at the end of each row from the right side as shown in A.2, i.e. cast on 1 stitch 3 times and 2 stitches 3 times = 43-43-45-45-47-47 stitches. When A.2 has been completed, work the right and left shoulders together to the front piece as described below.

FRONT PIECE:
Place the stitches from the two shoulders on the same circular needle size 3 mm (the 34 stitches cast on to neck on left shoulder front = mid front) = 120-120-124-124-128-128 stitches.
The first row is worked as follows from the right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.3 (= 38-38-40-40-42-42 stitches), work A.4 (= 38 stitches), work A.5 (= 38-38-40-40-42-42 stitches) and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern in this way and increase to armhole as described below.
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 17-15-16-14-13-13 cm increase 1 stitch in each side to armhole – read INCREASE TIP-2, i.e. increase from the right side after 3 edge stitches in garter stitch at the beginning of the row and before 3 edge stitches in garter stitch at the end of the row. Increase in this way every 2nd row a total of 3-7-7-13-17-21 times, then cast on 3-4-6-6-8-10 new stitches at the end of the next two rows = 132-142-150-162-178-190 stitches and the piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-24-26 cm from the shoulder down. Lay the piece to one side and work right shoulder back as described below.

RIGHT SHOULDER BACK (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the right side and, at the same time, increase 8 stitches in all sizes evenly on row = 34-34-36-36-38-38 stitches. Work back from the wrong side with knit 3 edge stitches and purl 31-31-33-33-35-35 stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.6 (= 31-31-33-33-35-35 stitches) and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the side. Continue the pattern in this way. When you have worked 2 rows in A.6 cast on 2 new stitches to neck at the end of the last row from the wrong side as shown in A.6 = 36-36-38-38-40-40 stitches. When you have worked 4 rows in A.6 cast on 48 new stitches to neck at the end of the last row from the wrong side = 84-84-86-86-88-88 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work left shoulder back as described below.

LEFT SHOULDER BACK (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase, at the same time, 8 stitches in all sizes evenly on row = 34-34-36-36-38-38 stitches. Work back from the wrong side with purl 31-31-33-33-35-35 stitches and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.7 (= 31-31-33-33-35-35 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way. When you have worked 3 rows in A.7 cast on 2 new stitches to neck at the end of the last row from the right side as shown in A.7 = 36-36-38-38-40-40 stitches. When A.7 has been completed, work the left and right shoulders together to the back piece as described below.

BACK PIECE:
Place the stitches from the two shoulders on the same circular needle size 3 mm (the 48 stitches cast on to neck on right shoulder back = mid back) = 120-120-124-124-128-128 stitches.
The first row is worked as follows from the right side (start on row 3 in A.3, A.4 and A.5 marked with star): Work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.3 (= 38-38-40-40-42-42 stitches), work A.4 (= 38 stitches), work A.5 (= 38-38-40-40-42-42 stitches) and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern in this way (when A.3, A.4 and A.5 have been completed 1 time in height from row 3, repeat all rows in height to finished length). AT THE SAME TIME increase to armhole as described below.
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 17-15-16-14-13-13 cm increase 1 stitch in each side to armholes – read INCREASE TIP-2, i.e. increase from the right side after 3 edge stitches in garter stitch at the beginning of the row and before 3 edge stitches in garter stitch at the end of the row. Increase in this way every 2nd row a total of 3-7-7-13-17-21 times, then cast on 3-4-6-6-8-10 new stitches at the end of the next two rows = 132-142-150-162-178-190 stitches and the piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-24-26 cm from the shoulder down.
Now work the front and back pieces together as described below.

BODY:
Place the stitches from the front piece on the needle (without working the stitches), insert 1 marker thread (= in the side), place the stitches from the back piece on the needle and insert 1 marker thread (= in the side) = 264-284-300-324-356-380 stitches.
The first round is worked as follows: Work 6-7-9-9-11-13 stitches in garter stitch, 3-7-7-13-17-21 stitches stocking stitch, continue A.3, A.4 and A.5 as before, work 3-7-7-13-17-21 stitches stocking stitch, 12-14-18-18-22-26 stitches in garter stitch (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 12-14-18-18-22-26 stitches), work 3-7-7-13-17-21 stitches stocking stitch, continue A.3, A.4 and A.5 as before, work 3-7-7-13-17-21 stitches stocking stitch and finish with 6-7-9-9-11-13 stitches in garter stitch.
Continue the pattern in this way, but when you have worked 2 ridges over the middle 12-14-18-18-22-26 stitches in each side work the next round as follows: NOTE: Start the round 3 stitches before the marker thread in the side, work A.8 (= 6 stitches, the marker thread sits in the middle of A.8), work 6-11-13-19-25-31 stitches stocking stitch, continue A.3, A.4 and A.5 as before, work 6-11-13-19-25-31 stitches stocking stitch, work A.8 (= 6 stitches, the marker thread sits in the middle of A.8), work 6-11-13-19-25-31 stitches stocking stitch, continue A.3, A.4 and A.5 as before and finish with 6-11-13-19-25-31 stitches stocking stitch.
Continue the pattern in this way. When the piece measures 32-34-36-38-40-42 cm from the shoulder (approx. 13-14-15-16-16-16 cm from the armhole), increase 2 stitches in each side – read INCREASE TIP-3 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 6th round (approx. every 2 cm) to finished length (if the knitting tension is correct in height, this is equivalent to approx. 21 increases in each side).
When the piece measures 73-75-77-79-81-83 cm there are approx. 348-368-384-408-440-464 stitches on the needle.
On the next round, knit together the stitches in each cable (both the cables with 4 stitches and the cables with 2 stitches) 2 and 2 (just the cables, not the purl sections or the stocking stitch sections) = approx. 294-314-330-354-386-410 stitches.
Work 3 RIDGES in the round over all stitches – see description above. Cast off with knit, but to prevent the cast-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after every 8th stitch at the same time as you cast off (the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches). The whole jumper measures approx. 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 38-40-40-42-48-48 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm. Work stocking stitch back and forth and cast on new stitches to sleeve cap at the end of each row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 stitches 1 time in all sizes, 2 stitches 2 times in all sizes, 1 stitch 7-8-11-13-14-17 times, 2 stitches 2-2-1-1-1-1 times and 3-4-6-6-8-10 stitches 1 time = 80-86-92-98-110-120 stitches and the piece measures approx. 8-9-10-11-12-14 cm from the cast-on edge and down. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the row (= mid under the sleeve). Continue by working stocking stitch in the round, but over the middle 6 stitches under the sleeve work A.8. When the piece measures 3-3-3-2-2-1 cm from the marker thread decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 2½-2-1½-1½-1-1 cm a total of 11-14-15-18-22-26 times = 58-58-62-62-66-68 stitches.
When the piece measures 30-30-29-29-29-27 cm from the marker thread (shorter measurements in larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders) knit 1 round where you increase 22-22-23-23-24-22 stitches evenly on round = 80-80-85-85-90-90 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. The next round is worked as follows: Continue A.8 over the 6 stitches mid under the sleeve, work A.9A until there are 4 stitches left before A.8 (= 14-14-15-15-16-16 repeats of 5 stitches) and finish with A.9B (= 4 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way. When the cuff measures 12 cm decrease all purl 3 to purl 2, by purling 2 together in each purl section = 64-64-68-68-72-72 stitches. Continue working until the cuff measures 15 cm (the whole sleeve measures approx. 53-54-54-55-56-56 cm from the cast-on edge). On the next round knit together the stitches in each cable 2 and 2 = 48-48-51-51-54-54 stitches. Work 2 ridges in the round. Cast off with knit, but to prevent the cast-off edge being tight, you can cast of with double pointed needles size 3 mm or make 1 yarn over after approx. every 8th stitch as on the body. The sleeve measures approx. 54-55-55-56-57-57 cm from the top down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-on edge.
Knit up approx.116 to 126 stitches around the neck on short circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work 3 ridges and cast off with knit, but to prevent the cast-off edge being tight, you can cast of with short circular needle size 3mm. Sew in the sleeves.

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, knit stitch on cable needle
	= place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, purl the stitch on the cable needle
	= place 2 stitches on the cable needle in front of the piece, purl 1, knit the 2 stitches on the cable needle
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 2, knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle
	= knitting direction
	= start here on back piece

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (36)

Winnie Henriksen wrote:

Jeg har løst problemet.

16.04.2024 - 20:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Winnie, dejligt at høre :)

17.04.2024 - 11:32

? Jeg har strikket mønstret en gang i højden jeg forstår ikke hvordan jeg skal få snoningerne til at passe \r\nDer er 5 glatstrikning men nu bliver der 7 kan det være rigtig ?

16.04.2024 - 14:42

Hej Winnie, vi ser at du har løst problemet :)

Hanna Queren wrote:

Für die Armausschnitte auf der Vorderseite soll ich die Zunahmen mit einem Umschlag in der Hinreihe machen. Den Umschlag soll ich in der Rückreihe links-verschränkt stricken (Zunahme-Tipp 2), wodurch er ja in der Hinreihe als rechte Masche erscheinen würde. Ist das so richtig? Die Maschen in der Hinreihe sind ja ansonsten linke Maschen.

09.09.2023 - 21:53

Liebe Frau Queren, die Zunahmen für die Armausschnitten werden glatt rechts gestrickt, so werden die Umschläge bei der nächsten Reihe links verschränkt gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.09.2023 - 09:16

Janet Bodner wrote:

Is there an English version of the pattern? It is so lovely!

16.02.2022 - 15:53

Dear Mrs Bodner, sure there is, click on the scroll down menu below the picture and choose either English (UK-cm) or English (US-inch). Happy knitting!

17.02.2022 - 10:49

Anja wrote:

Ich verstehe nicht, was bei dem Symbol mit dem schwarzen Diagonalfeld über zwei Maschen gemeint ist: "1 Masche auf die Zopfnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 1 Masche rechts, 1 Masche rechts von der Stricknadel". Was passiert denn mit der Masche, die ich auf der Zopfnadel habe? Was für eine Masche ist gemeint mit "1 Masche rechts von der Stricknadel"? Ist das ein Schreibfehler und dabei vielleicht die Zopfnadel gemeint? Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe! Viele Grüße

04.01.2022 - 12:16

Liebe Anja, ja genau, es war so gemeint, danke für den Hinweis, deutsche Anleitung wird korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.01.2022 - 12:34

Catherine Badrick wrote:

I have started knitting pattern 179-3. It is so differnt knitting from the top down! I have completed the two fromt shoulder and joined them into one but I am puzzled about the next instruction. When it gets to the armhole increases is the measurement given taken from the shoulder at the very start or should it be from the neck edge.? I took the measurement from the start of the shoulder and have started to increas from that but it appears to me this may give a very small and tight armhole.!

31.10.2021 - 12:42

Dear Catherine, unless stated that you need to measure from a specific marker stitch, you should always measure from the starting/cast on row. The length of the armhole can be modified and made longer. The armhole should measure from 19 cm (for the smallest size) and, in case you need to make it longer, you would need to modify the width of the sleeve too. Happy knitting!

31.10.2021 - 19:51

Kym Ware wrote:

Do you have a chart that shows the sizes in cm as I'm not sure which size to make.

15.07.2021 - 05:41

Hi Kym. You can find a chart with all measurement in cm in all sizes at the bottom of the pattern. Happy knitting!

15.07.2021 - 08:59

Mich wrote:

Hi, is the last row knitted for the front and back piece ( before the body is knitted) a wrong side or right side row? Thanks for all your help! You’ve been very helpful...much appreciated!

06.04.2021 - 02:22

Dear Mich, when you put the stitches together for the body, and knit the body, you do that from the right side (thus the last back and forth knitted row should be the wrong side). Happy Knitting!

06.04.2021 - 08:25

Hi, when knitting the body in the round, how does that affect the stitches? Diagrams A3/4 & 5 are to be worked from side to side (wrong and right side) In the round it’s wrong side only. Help! :-) thanks Mich

06.04.2021 - 00:58

Dear, Mitch, all the diagrams show every stitch as you see them from the RS, so when you knittem on the round, always knit every row from right to left, as it is seen on the diagrams. The order of working the diagrams are given in the pattern. Happy Knitting!

06.04.2021 - 01:55

Follow up to your response re: the three new stitches cast on sent March 24th. Question: I omitted to mention that I’m referring to the new stitches for the armhole. After I have increased one stitch at the beginning and at the end of every second row. Could you respond to include this additional information? Thanks

24.03.2021 - 12:00

Dear Mich, the new stitches increased for armholes are worked in stocking stitch and the 3 new sts cast on on each side are knitted - they will be later worked in garter stitch - see under BODY. Happy knitting!

24.03.2021 - 12:56