DROPS / 179 / 22

Autumn Joy by DROPS Design

The set consists of: Knitted shawl and gloves with garter stitch and stripes. The set is worked in DROPS Fabel.

DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-388
Yarn group A
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For the whole set, there will be enough yarn with approx. 200 g color no 602, 100 g color no 901 and 100 g color no 911 in DROPS Fabel.
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SHAWL:
Measurements: approx. 70 cm / 27½'' measured along mid-stitch and approx. 164 cm / 64½'' along the top edge.
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to Yarn Group A)
100 g color 911, picnic
100 g color 901, candy
150 g color 602, silver fox

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or the size needed to get 20 stitches and 39 rows garter stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.
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GLOVES:
Sizes: S/M - L/XL
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to Yarn Group A)
50 g in both sizes in color 911, picnic
50 g in both sizes in color 602, silver fox

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM / US 1.5 – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows garter stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
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DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

STRIPES-1 (for shawl):
The first row in each stripe is from the right side.
STRIPE 1: Work 6 ridges with silver fox.
STRIPE 2: Work * 1 ridge with silver fox, 1 ridge with candy *, work from *-* for 10 cm / 4'', measured along the mid-stitch, adjust so that you finish with 1 ridge with candy.
STRIPE 3: Work * 1 ridge with silver fox, 1 ridge with picnic *, work from *-* for 10 cm / 4'', measured along the mid-stitch, adjust so that you finish with 1 ridge with picnic.
Repeat stripes 2 and 3 until the piece measures 40 cm / 15 3/4'', measured along the mid-stitch.
Work stripe 1 one more time.
Repeat stripes 2 and 3 until the piece measures 67 cm / 26½'', measured along the mid-stitch.
Work stripe 1 one more time.

STRIPES-2 (for gloves):
The first row in each stripe is from the right side.
STRIPE 1: Work * 2 rows picnic, 4 rows silver fox *, work from *-* for 8 cm / 3 1/8'', adjust so that the last stripe is with picnic.
STRIPE 2: Work * 2 rows silver fox, 2 rows picnic *, work from *-* to finished length.

INCREASE TIP (for gloves):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next row knit the yarn over twisted to prevent a hole.
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SHAWL:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle so that there is room for all the stitches. It is worked top down in GARTER STITCH and STRIPES-1 – see description above.
Cast on 3 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and silver fox.
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit 1 stitch, 1 yarn over, knit 1 stitch, 1 yarn over and knit 1 stitch = 5 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit.
ROW 3: Knit 1 stitch, 1 yarn over, knit 1 stitch, 1 yarn over, knit 1 stitch (insert a marker in this stitch = mid-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 1 stitch, 1 yarn over and knit 1 stitch = 9 stitches.
ROW 4: Knit.
ROW 5: Knit 1 stitch, 1 yarn over, knit to mid-stitch, 1 yarn over, knit 1 stitch (= mid-stitch), 1 yarn over and knit until there is 1 stitch left on the needle, 1 yarn over and knit 1 stitch = 13 stitches.
Repeat rows 4 and 5. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When the stripes have been completed in height, the piece measures approx. 78 cm / 30 3/4'', measured along the mid-stitch. Loosely bind off. Cut and fasten the strands.
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GLOVES:
The piece is worked back and forth and sewn together in the outer edge to finish.

RIGHT GLOVE:
Cast on 64-72 stitches over 2 needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with silver fox (this is done so that the cast-on edge is elastic). Pull one of the needles out and work 3 RIDGES – see description above, with silver fox. Then work the piece in STRIPES-2 – see description above.
Then work rib on the next row from the right side as follows: Work 1 stitch garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* and finish with knit 2 and 1 stitch garter stitch.
Continue the rib until the piece measures approx. 11-12 cm / 4½"-4 3/4'' – adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side. Now purl all 2-purl together to 1-purl = 49-55 stitches left on the needle. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Continue with garter stitch to finished length.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row, decrease 7-5 stitches evenly on row = 42-50 stitches. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Insert 1 marker thread in the 20th-24th stitch on the needle (seen from the right side).

THUMB:
When the piece measures 13-14 cm / 5"-5½'' increase 1 stitch for thumb on each side of the stitch with marker thread (= 2 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 4th row 2-3 more times = 7-9 thumb stitches. When the piece measures 18-20 cm / 7"-8'' place the 7-9 thumb stitches on 1 thread. Then cast on 1 new stitch behind the thumb stitches = 42-50 stitches, continue with garter stitch as before.
When the piece measures 22-24 cm / 8 3/4"-9½'' place the middle 34-40 stitches on 1 thread and work the pinkie over the 8-10 stitches left on the needle (place the stitches together so that the seam will be outermost in the side of the hand (not in the side towards the thumb)). Each finger is now worked separately in garter stitch, back and forth on the needle.

PINKIE:
Increase 3 stitches evenly on the first row = 11-13 stitches. When the finger measures approx. 5-7 cm / 2"-2 3/4'' work the stitches together 2 and 2, cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitches.
Place the 34-40 stitches from the thread back on the needle. Work 2 ridges over all stitches and place the middle 23-27 stitches back on the thread.

RING FINGER:
Place the 11-13 stitches nearest on each side of the pinkie back on the needle and increase 3 stitches evenly on the first row = 14-16 stitches. When the finger measures approx. 7.5-9 cm / 2 3/4"-3½'' work the stitches together 2 and 2, cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitches.

MIDDLE FINGER:
Place the outermost 6-7 stitches in each side on the thread back on the needle and increase 3 stitches evenly on the first row = 15-17 stitches. When the finger measures approx. 7.5-9 cm / 3"-3½'' work the stitches together 2 and 2, cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitches.

INDEX FINGER:
Place the last 11-13 stitches on the needle and increase 4 stitches evenly on the first row = 15-17 stitches. When the finger measures approx. 6-7.5 cm / 2½"-3'' work the stitches together 2 and 2. Cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitches.

THUMB:
Place the 7-9 stitches from the thread back on the needle and knit up 7-9 stitches behind these stitches = 14-18 stitches. Work garter stitch for approx. 5.5-6 cm / 2 1/4"-2½'', then work the stitches together 2 and 2, cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitches.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the fingers, edge to edge in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch. Sew the glove together in the side, inside the 1 stitch in garter stitch.

LEFT GLOVE:
Worked as for the right but reversed, i.e. insert 1 marker thread in the 18th-22nd stitch on the needle and increase for thumb on either side of this.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 179-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

France 02.06.2019 - 16:47:

Peut on avoir le patron en français il est très joli merci le chale

DROPS Design 03.06.2019 kl. 10:53:

Bonjour France, tous nos modèles sont disponibles en français, cliquez sur la flèche du menu déroulant sous la photo pour sélectionner "français". Bon tricot!

G. Rischar 19.10.2018 - 02:33:

Ich habe nun den ganzen Abend an der Beschreibung rumgerätselt und komme nicht dahinter, wie zum Schluss der graue Rand entsteht. Und muss ich die Umschläge verschränkt abstricken? Vielen Dank für ihre Antwort! Vielen Grüße, G.R.

DROPS Design 19.10.2018 kl. 08:45:

Liebe Frau Rischar, die grauen Streifen entsehen durch die Streifen mit Farbe 602, Silver Fox - siehe STREIFEN-1 (gilt für das Tuch) - Die Umschläge bei dem Tuch werden nicht verschränkt gestrickt, damit Löcher enstehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Markéta 29.08.2018 - 14:55:

Dobrý den, prosím vás, jak se u vzoru šátku pletou krajová oka? Vzorek šátku začíná na tři oka...je to včetně krajových ok ? děkuji za odpověď Markéta

DROPS Design 31.08.2018 kl. 07:49:

Dobrý den, Markéto, ano, oka jsou uváděna všechna, která vidíte na jehlici, tj. včetně krajových. Krajová oka pleteme v lícových i rubových řadách hladce. Hodně pohody při pletení! Hana

Angela 29.03.2018 - 18:37:

Ho iniziato a fare questo scialle, ma mi sembra che il lavoro non venga "piano" sembra quasi un cappello; un'amica mi ha detto di aumentare i m per parte anche nei ferri pari; quindi la sequenza delle maglie diventerebbe F1=5maglie, F2=7 maglie, F3=11m, F4 13 m eccetera. Dove sbaglio ? grazie

DROPS Design 30.03.2018 kl. 14:04:

Buongiorno Angela, non ci sono errori nelle spiegazioni del modello e si aumenta solo sul diritto del lavoro. Tenga presente che la lavorazione dello scialle parte dal bordo superiore e non dalla punta. Se preferisce può mandare una mail a italian@garnstudio.com con la foto del suo lavoro. Buon lavoro

Pia Anderberg 27.03.2018 - 15:01:

Hej! I mönstret till sjalen Autumn Joy står det att det är färgerna "picknick" och "candy" (+ silver fox). Kan det vara riktigt? Det finns ju gult i Candy och jag ser inte alls något gult på bilden. Jag frågar för jag tycker färgerna på bilden är så vackra. Skulle gärna vilja sticka i just den kombinationen. Tack. Vänligen Pia

DROPS Design 18.04.2018 kl. 17:38:

Hej, färgerna på bilden stämmer med dem som anges i mönstret. Ibland kan färgerna avvika från det riktiga beroende på skärm och skärminställningar.

Katarina 24.01.2018 - 19:04:

Hej! I svar till Camilla står det: du startar nederst på sjalen, men i beskrivningen startar man uppifrån (vilket är rätt)

Camilla 26.09.2017 - 15:06:

Hej Det står inget om hur många maskor man ska lägga upp inte heller när man ska avmaska eller öka!! Hur gör jag??? Med vänlig hälsning, Camilla

DROPS Design 27.09.2017 kl. 09:01:

Hei Camilla. Når det gjelder sjalet står det slik i oppskriften: SJAL: .... Lägg upp 3 maskor på rundsticka 4,5 med silver fox. VARV 1 (= rätsidan): Sticka 1 rätmaska, 1 omslag, 1 rätmaska, 1 omslag och 1 rätmaska = 5 maskor. VARV 2 (= avigsidan): Stickas rätt....osv Du starter nederst på sjalet og strikker som en slags trekant. Du legger opp 3 masker og øker allerede med 2 masker på 1. rad, så øker du på annenhver rad (se oppskriften for nærmere forklaring). Når arbeidet måler ca 78 ( målt langs midtmasken) feller du løst av. God Fornøyelse!

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