DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 73.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Norfolk

Jacket, knitted sideways with cables. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Big Merino.

DROPS 179-24
DROPS Design: Pattern no mb-039
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Due to the weight of the garment, the jacket will stretch approx. 8-10 cm in length mid back when worn. The measurements in the pattern are therefore shorter than the jacket shown in the photo.
Materials:
DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
1050-1150-1250-1400-1550-1700 g colour 08, marble

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 5.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5.MM – for rib edges.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 73.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. Choose diagram for your size.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

MEASUREMENT TIP:
All length measurements for the front and back pieces are taken with the pieces lying flat.
Due to the weight of the garment, the piece will stretch a little when worn in relation to the measurements given in the pattern – see description below under Sizes.
All lengths for the sleeves are taken whilst the piece is held up to prevent the sleeve becoming too long (you can try the sleeve on as you go and adjust to the required length).

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (for the armhole):
To prevent the armhole being too large when decreasing in a cable section, you must decrease some stitches evenly on row before casting off for the armhole. In the same way, you will need to increase some stitches evenly on row after you have cast on new stitches for the armhole.
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly for the armhole, count the total number of stitches you are decreasing/increasing over (e.g. 39 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 9) = 4.3. In this example, work approx. every 3th and 4th stitch together when decreasing. If you are increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch. On the next row, work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JACKET:
Front and back pieces are worked in 2 parts which are sewn together mid back. They are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front to mid back.

LEFT FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Cast on 140-144-148-152-154-158 stitches with circular needle 4.5 mm and Big Merino. Work 4 RIDGES – see description above. Change to circular needle 5.5 mm. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: A.1 (= 5 stitches), A.2 (= 19-19-19-21-21-21 stitches), 40-44-48-44-46-50 stitches stocking stitch, A.3 (= 19-19-19-21-21-21 stitches), A.4 (= 33-33-33-35-35-35 stitches), A.3 (= 19-19-19-21-21-21 stitches) and A.1 (= 5 stitches). Work back from the wrong side in the same way = 158-162-166-170-172-176 stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Continue A.1 (= 5 stitches), work A.5 (= 22-22-22-24-24-24 stitches), 40-44-48-44-46-50 stitches stocking stitch, A.6 (= 22-22-22-24-24-24 stitches), A.7 (= 42-42-42-44-44-44 stitches), A.6 (= 22-22-22-24-24-24 stitches) and finish with A.1 (= 5 stitches). Continue in this way and repeat the pattern in height upwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm – read MEASUREMENT TIP, decrease for the armhole as follows:
The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Continue the pattern as before over the first 40 stitches, purl the next 39-41-43-45-46-47 stitches and at the same time decrease 9 stitches evenly over these 39-41-43-45-46-47 stitches – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP, then continue the pattern as before over the remaining 79-81-83-85-86-89 stitches.
On the next row cast off for the armhole as follows from the right side: Work as before over the first 79-81-83-85-86-89 stitches, cast off the next 30-32-34-36-37-38 stitches for armhole and work as before over the last 40 stitches.
Turn the piece and work back as follows from the wrong side: Work 40 stitches as before, cast on 30-32-34-36-37-38 new stitches on the needle and continue the pattern as before to end of row.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work the first 79-81-83-85-86-89 stitches as before, knit 30-32-34-36-37-38 stitches and increase, at the same time, 9 stitches evenly over these 30-32-34-36-37-38 stitches – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP, then work the remaining 40 stitches as before.
Continue the pattern back and forth as before over all 158-162-166-170-172-176 stitches (make sure you continue with the correct row in the diagram over the armhole in regard to the rest of the pattern).
When the piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm from the cast-on edge, change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side and knit 1 row from the right side. Now work garter stitch back and forth in the neck with short rows as follows: Start from the wrong side, up by the neck and knit from the wrong side over the first 40 stitches. Insert 1 marker. Turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit back. Turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit until there are 5 stitches left before the marker, turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit back. Turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit until there are 10 stitches left before the marker, turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit back. Continue in this way, by knitting over 5 less stitches, until you have worked back and forth over the last 5 stitches. Turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit 1 row from the wrong side over all 158-162-166-170-172-176 stitches. Then loosely cast off with knit from the right side – NOTE: To prevent the cast-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after each 8th stitch at the same time as you cast off (the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches).

RIGHT FRONT AND BACK PIECE: 
Cast on 140-144-148-152-154-158 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 4 ridges. Change to circular needle 5.5 mm. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: A.1 (= 5 stitches), A.2 (= 19-19-19-21-21-21 stitches), A.8 (= 33-33-33-35-35-35 stitches), A.2 (= 19-19-19-21-21-21 stitches), 40-44-48-44-46-50 stitches stocking stitch, A.3 (= 19-19-19-21-21-21 stitches) and A.1 (= 5 stitches). Work back from the wrong side in the same way = 158-162-166-170-172-176 stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Continue A.1 (= 5 stitches), work A.5 (= 22-22-22-24-24-24 stitches), A.9 (= 42-42-42-44-44-44 stitches), A.5 (22-22-22-24-24-24 stitches), 40-44-48-44-46-50 stitches stocking stitch, A.6 (= 22-22-22-24-24-24 stitches) and finish with A.1 (= 5 stitches). Continue in this way and repeat the pattern in height upwards.
When the piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm - read MEASUREMENT TIP, decrease for the armhole as follows:
The first row is worked as follows from the right side: Continue the pattern as before over the first 40 stitches, knit the next 39-41-43-45-46-47 stitches and at the same time decrease 9 stitches evenly over these 39-41-43-45-46-47 stitches– read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP, then continue the pattern as before over the remaining 79-81-83-85-86-89 stitches.
On the next row cast off for the armhole as follows from the wrong side: Work as before over the first 79-81-83-85-86-89 stitches, cast off the next 30-32-34-36-37-38 stitches for armhole and work as before over the last 40 stitches.
Turn the piece and work back as follows from the right side: Work 40 stitches as before, cast on 30-32-34-36-37-38 new stitches on the needle and continue the pattern to the end of the row as before.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work the first 79-81-83-85-86-89 stitches as before, purl 30-32-34-36-37-38 stitches and at the same time increase 9 stitches evenly over these 30-32-34-36-37-38 stitches – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP, then work the remaining 40 stitches as before.
Continue the pattern back and forth as before over all 158-162-166-170-172-176 stitches (make sure you continue with the correct row in the diagram over the armhole in regard to the rest of the pattern).
When the piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm from the cast-on edge, change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side.
Now work garter stitch back and forth in the neck with short rows as follows: Start from the right side up by the neck and knit from the right side over the first 40 stitches. Insert 1 marker. Turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit back. Turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit until there are 5 stitches left before the marker, turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit back. Turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit until there are 10 stitches left before the marker, turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit back. Continue in this way by knitting 5 stitches less, until you have worked back and forth over the last 5 stitches. Turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side over all 158-162-166-170-172-176 stitches. Then loosely cast off with knit from the right side – NOTE: To prevent the cast-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after each 8th stitch at the same time as you cast off (the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches).


SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked top down. It is worked back and forth on short circular needle until the sleeve cap has been completed. Then the sleeve is worked in the round with short circular needle, but change to double pointed needles when you have decreased enough stitches. 
Cast on 18-20-24-28-30-34 stitches with short circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work stocking stitch and AT THE SAME TIME cast on 5 stitches at the end of each row a total of 4 times in each side = 58-60-64-68-70-74 stitches. The piece now measures approx. 4 cm from the cast on edge. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the row. Work stocking stitch in the round and allow the marker thread to follow your work – remember MEASURING TIP. When the piece measures 2½ cm in all sizes from where the marker thread was inserted, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 3½-3½-3-3-3-2½ cm a total of 12-12-14-15-15-16 times = 34-36-36-38-40-42 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 49 cm from the marker thread. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above, change back to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and loosely cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 55 cm in all sizes. Work another sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the back pieces together mid back – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so that you get a flat seam. Sew in the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next row purl the yarn over twisted to prevent a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next row knit the yarn over so that there is a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = place 1 stitch on the cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, then purl 1 from the cable needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on the cable needle in front of the piece, purl 1, then knit 3 from the cable needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, then knit 3 from the cable needle
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Megan wrote:

I'm lost. I really want to make this sweater. I compared the size diagram to a similar sweater, and it says I need to make an XXXL. But I am a very small human being! The sweater I compared to is 54 cm from side seam to side seam, and fits loosely. Could you please give me some advice?

10.10.2023 - 18:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Megan, to find out your size here you can compare the back width on a similar garment, from armhole to armhole, you will have here 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm depending on the size. Happy knitting!

11.10.2023 - 08:26

country flag Megan wrote:

I'm lost. I really want to make this sweater. I compared the size diagram to a similar sweater, and it says I need to make an XXXL. But I am a very small human being! The sweater I compared to is 54 cm from side seam to side seam, and fits loosely. Could you please give me some advice?

10.10.2023 - 18:38

country flag Ina wrote:

Hallo ihr Lieben, ich würde diese Jacke gerne mit Garngruppe B stricken (Merino extra fine). Um auf die gleiche Größe zu kommen, würde ich die Maschenanzahl sowie die glatt rechts Bereiche entsprechend erweitern., das kriege ich hin. Mir fällt es jedoch schwer, die benötigte Garnmenge auszurechnen. Habt ihr vielleicht einen Tipp für mich? Vielen Dank!

30.03.2023 - 08:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ina, wenn Sie die Maschenzahl ändern, wird es mit der Berechnung der Garnmenge schwierig, da ja zwei Aspekte zu berücksichtigen sind: Die Lauflänge und der Mehrverbrauch durch die dünnere Nadelstärke. Leider können wir Ihnen hier keine Empfehlung für die Garnmenge geben, die passend wäre.

05.04.2023 - 10:48

country flag Linda wrote:

Je suis pas sur d'avoir mis les deux coté comme il faut.pourriez vous me montré comment vous les assemblés les deux morceaux,ainsi que les manches.Merci.

25.09.2021 - 00:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Linda, assemblez les mailles rabattues des 2 grandes pièces devant droit & demi-dos et devant gauche & demi dos (ligne noire dans le schéma, les flèches indiquant le sens du tricot) et 2ème photo où on voit le milieu du dos; placez les manches le long de l'emmanchure, le milieu des mailles montées doit se trouver en haut, côté col, épinglez si besoin les mailles tout autour de l'emmanchure, le milieu sous la manche doit être en bas de l'ouverture de l'emmanchure. Bon assemblage!

27.09.2021 - 07:56

country flag Linda wrote:

Je tricote depuis un bon moment et je trouve que c'est un peu compliqué de suivre ce shéma de patron.Les manches je ne trouve pas le début des explication? Et j'aimerais savoir comment ont fait pour savoir que nous sommes bien rendu a la deuxieme ligne du shémas pour la veste?Merci beaucoup de m'aidée dans mon tricot.

04.02.2021 - 11:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Linda, Vous trouverez les explications des manches sous le paragraphe MANCHES - par "2ème ligne du schéma", entendez-vous le 2ème rang des diagrammes? je ne suis pas bien sûre de comprendre, désolée, pouvez-vous reformuler cette partie de votre question? Merci pour votre compréhension.

04.02.2021 - 13:14

country flag Dawn wrote:

I need help getting started. After the initial A1, A2,... when working back from the wrong side in the same way is it going from A1 to A2 or A1 to A3?

04.05.2019 - 23:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hello Dawn. The return row (on left front and back piece) is worked: A.1, A.3, A.4, A.3, A.2, A.1. Enjoy your knitting!

05.05.2019 - 09:08

Susanne Thompson wrote:

Thank you for the response. And to clarify after I increase in row 1/2 the first time I do not increase again through out the pattern, when I have to repeat rows 1 and 2 otherwise I cannot end with 158 *size s* at the end. Correct? So it is actually row 1 row 2 row 3 row 4 and then it is only row 3 and 4 that are repeated? or repeat row 1 2 3 and 4 with no increases? Would be easier if your pattern could number the rows and indicate clearly which rows are to be repeated in the pattern.

04.01.2019 - 15:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Thompson, you won't repeat the 2 rows in A.2/A.3/A.4, they are just worked once, after you have worked these 2 rows in these diagram, you work A.5 over A.2, A.6 over A.3, A.7 over A.4 and A.6 over last A.3 on row. So that on 3rd row in A.1, you work row 1 in A.5, A.6, A.7, on row 4 in A.4 you work row 2 in A.5, A.6, A.7 and so on. When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, repeat the 8 rows from row 1. When A.5-A.7 have been worked 1 time in height, repeat them from row 1. Happy knitting!

04.01.2019 - 15:17

Susanne Thompson wrote:

I am trying to get this project started and am not clear on the pattern. Starting with left side, the way I read it is you do row 1,2,3,4 and then repeat 1,2,3,4 over and over until measurement reaches 48 cm. But row 1 has sections A.2,A.3 and A.4 that all increase stitches. But when dec for armhole only deals with 158 stitches. Also to clarify. When I read the row does first stitch start on left side of the pattern read back to the left? Thank you for the help. Susanne

03.01.2019 - 22:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Thompson, you first work row 1 diagrams A.1, A.2, A.3 and A.4 increasing in A.2, A.3 and A.4 - then work ws row = row 2 = you have increased sts in the diagrams and should have now 158-176 sts (see size). On next row, continue A.1 (= row 3 in A.1) and work A.5, A.6, A.7 starting them on row 1 as shown in diagram. When diagrams have been worked one time in height, repeat them in height from row 1. Happy knitting!

04.01.2019 - 12:24

country flag Marielle wrote:

Worden de omslagen in telpatroon A3 meteen als steken meegeteld? (In het telpatroon staan 19 steken en 3 omslagen getekend.)

15.11.2017 - 22:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marielle, In de eerste naald worden in de 19 steken die aangegeven zijn niet de omslagen meegerekend. Het zijn dus inderdaad 19 steken én 3 omslagen. In de tweede naald zijn deze 3 omslagen wel steken geworden.

17.11.2017 - 12:01

country flag Angeline Van Loopik wrote:

Klopt het dat de tel patroon ook de terug gaande naald laat zien of is het alleen de heen gaande naald

30.10.2017 - 21:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Angeline, Dat klopt inderdaad, het telpatroon laat alle naalden in het telpatroon zien, dus zowel de heengaande als de teruggaande naalden.

30.10.2017 - 22:37