DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
 100% Cotton
from 2.80 $ /50g
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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.20$.

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Mazo

Top with V-neck, textured pattern and vents in the sides, worked bottom up in DROPS Muskat. Size: S - XXXL.

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DROPS 178-66

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DROPS design: Pattern r-709
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-200-250-250-300 g color 06, pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24") SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4" and 10 cm / 4" vertically.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
 100% Cotton
from 2.80 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows. 1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On next row knit yarn over twisted to avoid hole. NOTE: Work the new stitches gradually in the pattern A.2.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch inside 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease as follows after 3 edge stitches in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
Decrease as follows before 3 edge stitches in garter stitch: Begin 2 stitches before the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch and knit 2 together.
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TOP:
Worked back and forth in 2 parts and sewn together when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 81-89-97-107-119-133 stitches with Muskat on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work rib as follows (1st row = right side): Work 3 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, knit 1 stitch, repeat A.1 (= 2 stitches) until 3 stitches remain on row, work 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern back and forth like this until A.1 has been worked vertically. Then work A.2 (= 2 stitches) over A.1. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 5 cm / 2", cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the next 2 rows (marks where vents end) = 83-91-99-109-121-135 stitches.

Work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, A.2 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾", increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side - READ INCREASE TIP!
Repeat increase when piece measures 10 cm / 4" = 87-95-103-113-125-139 stitches. When piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½"-8"-8¼"-8¾"-9"-9½", work from arrow in A.3 over the middle 7 stitches on row - adjust so that this row marked with arrow is worked from wrong side. On first row from right side after A.3 work over the first 44-48-52-57-63-70 stitches on row and slip the remaining 44-48-52-57-63-70 stitches on 1 stitch holder.

RIGHT SIDE AT THE BACK:
= 44-48-52-57-63-70 stitches. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION - decrease for neck and armhole at the same time as follows:
Work pattern A.2 as before with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards neck and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side.
NECK:
On first row from right side begin decrease for neck. Decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch - READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every other row (i.e. on every row from right side) 16-18-20-22-24-26 times in total.
ARMHOLE:
When piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm / 8¼"-8¾"-9"-9½"-9¾"-10¼", work in garter stitch over the outermost 10-10-12-11-11-14 stitches towards the side (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch). When 4 rows have been worked (= 2 ridges) over these stitches, bind off the first 7-7-9-8-8-11 stitches at beginning of row for armhole. Work the next 3 stitches in garter stitch (= edge towards armhole). Decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. Decrease like this every other row (i.e. on every row from right side) 10-12-12-14-18-20 times in total.

After all bind offs and decreases for armhole and neck, 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches remain on row for strap. Continue the pattern as before with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. Work strap as shown in A.4 - choose diagram for size. When piece measures 39-41-43-45-47-49 cm / 15¼"-16"-17"-17¾"-18½"-19¼", bind off all stitches.

LEFT SIDE AT THE BACK:
Slip the 44-48-52-57-63-70 stitches from stitch holder in the other side back on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work the same way as right side at the back but reversed – NOTE: When binding off for armhole in the side, bind off at beginning of row from wrong side (instead of beginning of row from right side). The remaining decreases for armhole and neck are done from right side.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as back piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the two straps together with grafting/kitchener stitches to avoid a chunky seam. Sew side seam inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side from armhole and down to vent. Repeat in the other side. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = knit 1 in front and back loop of same stitch (= 1 stitch increased)
symbols = begin on this row - adjust to begin from wrong side
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Mazo

Gabi, Germany

Mazo

Jenny, Finland

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Comments / Questions (46)

country flag Sara Andrea wrote:

Hei! Jeg skal strikke A2. Den andre raden på A2 er på vrangen, skal jeg strikke denne rett eller vrang? Skal strukturen på rad en være, rett og vrang og rad to, vrang på rettsiden?

04.04.2024 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sara Andrea, Når du strikker på vrangsiden, er hvite ruter strikket vrang og ruter med kryss strikket rett. Diagrammene leses fra venstre til høyre når man strikker på vrangsiden. God fornøyelse!

05.04.2024 - 06:57

country flag Jyotsna Naik wrote:

What I should be doing when I switch to the A.3 chart. It says the row marked by the arrow should be worked from the WS, but to do that, I’d have to work the row below from the RS, meaning I’d be doing a row of knitting. But the A.2 pattern states that for RS rows I should P1 K1. I’m not sure how these two charts fit together. Any help would be great.

02.01.2024 - 17:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jyotsna, after reaching the correct measurements, you need to work as shown in A.3 over the middle 7 stitches only (5 stitches in garter stitch and 1 stitch in stocking stitch on each side). The row from the wrong side will be: purl all stitches except the 5 stitches in garter stitch. Then, on the row from the RS, work in rib (p1,k1) until you reach the 7 A.3 stitches, and then, k1,k5,k1. Happy knitting!

07.01.2024 - 17:56

country flag ROSA KIAN wrote:

I figured out my previous question, but I am confused on the decreases for neck and armhole. It said to do it at the same time. for the neck stars decreasing 1 sts TOG, and then said when measure 21 cm start the 2 ridges of A.2 before decreasing the 7 sts for the armhole, so the decreases don't start at the same time. can you help me please

25.04.2023 - 15:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kian, the decreases for neck and armhole will be worked at the same time, but correct you first start decreasing for neck, then at the same time you will shape armhole (= work garter stitch, then cast off sts towards armhole then decrease for armhole). Happy knitting!

26.04.2023 - 08:33

country flag ROSA KIAN wrote:

Please in A2 there are 2 ridge, the first one; 1 purl, 1 knit..., the second one, all purl , this is going to be the wrong side right? so when you got in A3, start from the wrong side, this mean the row that is all purl?

24.04.2023 - 22:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Rosa, A.2 pattern is a textured pattern, not ridges (which would be knitted from both sides). You begin A.2 from the right side and finish from the wrong side after 4 rows. Then you begin A.3 from the right side, bottom row with K1, P1. Happy knitting!

25.04.2023 - 08:07

country flag Francisca wrote:

Hola, al iniciar 3 puntos musgo, 1 d, y a1 , en el centro queda 1 punto reves , y al querer hacerlo coincidir con el punto que se agrega en a3 queda finalmente 1 derecho sobre 1 reves. Para que coincida es necesario iniciar 3 puntos musgo e inmediatamente 1 reves, de esa manera se logra el diagrama . He intentado iniciarlo como explica pero no coincide el punto del medio Saludos

17.11.2022 - 04:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Francisca, comienzas con 1d para que el elástico quede simétrico (comienza y termina con 1d). Por lo tanto, no es necesario que quede alineado el punto central.

20.11.2022 - 23:12

country flag Kelly wrote:

'When piece measures 5 cm, cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the next 2 rows (marks where vents end) = 83-91-99-109-121-135 stitches. Work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, A.2 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.' I'm very confused after the increase. I followed the pattern, but it doesn't match up with the previous row with the 3 Gartner stitches. I'm getting Gartner, knit, purl, knit, 'knit'. What am I doing wrong?

05.07.2022 - 16:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kelly, you previously started with 3 sts garter stitch, K1, then A.1 (P1, K1) - from RS; after the new st cast on work: 1 st in garter st (new stitch), K1 (the first of the 3 garter sts), A.2 (= P1, K1 on first row) -= the 3 sts previously worked in garter stitch, then continue with A.2 over A.1 (= P1, K1 on first row in A.2 over A.1 = P1, K1) - and same at the end of the row. Can this help? Happy knitting!

06.07.2022 - 09:02

country flag Annamaria wrote:

Buongiorno \r\nNon ho capito quando faccio il primo aumento 83 maglie\r\nNon mi corrispondono le maglie 1/1grazie mille buona giornata

05.07.2022 - 09:58

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Annamaria, il primo aumento porta solo 2 maglie di vivagno a maglia legaccio (una per lato) che non impattano sul motivo. Buon lavoro!

06.07.2022 - 08:52

country flag Chantal wrote:

Bonjour Il me semble bizarre que le rang avec flèche de A3 soit tricoté sur l'envers puisque le rang précédent (tricoté selon A2) est sur l'envers. A2 : sur l'endroit, j'alterne mailles endroit et envers. sur l'envers je tricote toutes les mailles à l'envers. Est-ce une erreur ? ou je n'ai pas bien compris ?

09.06.2022 - 10:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Chantal, effectivement, une note a été envoyée à nos stylistes, j'ajusterai A.3 comme il faut pour retomber juste (= pour que les 1ers rangs de A.3 sous la flèche correspondent à A.2), en attendant un retour. Merci d'avance, bonne continuation!

09.06.2022 - 13:23

country flag María Fernanda Yáñez wrote:

Hola! Para la talla M, los 95 puntos de A2 no encajan con el sentido de los 7 puntos centrales de A3 (para que encajen tendría que tener 43 puntos a un lado y 45 en el otro). Hago el comentario para saber si es que hay un error en el patrón. Gracias por la respuesta.

15.03.2022 - 05:30

country flag Irene Simeone wrote:

Buongiorno, un'altra domanda. Quando si deve iniziare il diagramma A.3, le istruzioni dicono di iniziare dalla riga indicata dalla freccia su un ferro sul rovescio del lavoro. Questo significa che le 7 maglie centrali devono essere lavorati così: 1 dir, 5 rov, 1 dir? Grazie ancora. Irene

03.03.2022 - 15:43

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Irene, dal rovescio del lavoro deve lavorare come indicato nella legenda e cioè 1 maglia rovescio, 5 maglie diritto e 1 maglia rovescio. Buon lavoro!

05.03.2022 - 22:09

Mazo



Top with V-neck, textured pattern and vents in the sides, worked bottom up in DROPS Muskat. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 178-66
DROPS design: Pattern r-709
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-200-250-250-300 g color 06, pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24") SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4" and 10 cm / 4" vertically.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows. 1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On next row knit yarn over twisted to avoid hole. NOTE: Work the new stitches gradually in the pattern A.2.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch inside 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease as follows after 3 edge stitches in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
Decrease as follows before 3 edge stitches in garter stitch: Begin 2 stitches before the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch and knit 2 together.
----------------------------------------------------------

TOP:
Worked back and forth in 2 parts and sewn together when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 81-89-97-107-119-133 stitches with Muskat on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work rib as follows (1st row = right side): Work 3 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, knit 1 stitch, repeat A.1 (= 2 stitches) until 3 stitches remain on row, work 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern back and forth like this until A.1 has been worked vertically. Then work A.2 (= 2 stitches) over A.1. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 5 cm / 2", cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the next 2 rows (marks where vents end) = 83-91-99-109-121-135 stitches.

Work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, A.2 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾", increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side - READ INCREASE TIP!
Repeat increase when piece measures 10 cm / 4" = 87-95-103-113-125-139 stitches. When piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½"-8"-8¼"-8¾"-9"-9½", work from arrow in A.3 over the middle 7 stitches on row - adjust so that this row marked with arrow is worked from wrong side. On first row from right side after A.3 work over the first 44-48-52-57-63-70 stitches on row and slip the remaining 44-48-52-57-63-70 stitches on 1 stitch holder.

RIGHT SIDE AT THE BACK:
= 44-48-52-57-63-70 stitches. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION - decrease for neck and armhole at the same time as follows:
Work pattern A.2 as before with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards neck and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side.
NECK:
On first row from right side begin decrease for neck. Decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch - READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every other row (i.e. on every row from right side) 16-18-20-22-24-26 times in total.
ARMHOLE:
When piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm / 8¼"-8¾"-9"-9½"-9¾"-10¼", work in garter stitch over the outermost 10-10-12-11-11-14 stitches towards the side (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch). When 4 rows have been worked (= 2 ridges) over these stitches, bind off the first 7-7-9-8-8-11 stitches at beginning of row for armhole. Work the next 3 stitches in garter stitch (= edge towards armhole). Decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. Decrease like this every other row (i.e. on every row from right side) 10-12-12-14-18-20 times in total.

After all bind offs and decreases for armhole and neck, 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches remain on row for strap. Continue the pattern as before with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. Work strap as shown in A.4 - choose diagram for size. When piece measures 39-41-43-45-47-49 cm / 15¼"-16"-17"-17¾"-18½"-19¼", bind off all stitches.

LEFT SIDE AT THE BACK:
Slip the 44-48-52-57-63-70 stitches from stitch holder in the other side back on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work the same way as right side at the back but reversed – NOTE: When binding off for armhole in the side, bind off at beginning of row from wrong side (instead of beginning of row from right side). The remaining decreases for armhole and neck are done from right side.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as back piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the two straps together with grafting/kitchener stitches to avoid a chunky seam. Sew side seam inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side from armhole and down to vent. Repeat in the other side. Fasten off.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbol = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbol = knit 1 in front and back loop of same stitch (= 1 stitch increased)
symbol = begin on this row - adjust to begin from wrong side

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