DROPS / 178 / 66

Mazo by DROPS Design

Top with V-neck, textured pattern and vents in the sides, worked bottom up in DROPS Muskat. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Mazo / DROPS 178-66 - Top with V-neck, textured pattern and vents in the sides, worked bottom up in DROPS Muskat. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Mazo / DROPS 178-66 - Top with V-neck, textured pattern and vents in the sides, worked bottom up in DROPS Muskat. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern r-709
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-200-250-250-300 g colour 06, pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows. 1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size.

Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On next row knit yarn over twisted to avoid hole. NOTE: Work the new stitches gradually in the pattern A.2.

Decrease 1 stitch inside 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease as follows after 3 edge stitches in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
Decrease as follows before 3 edge stitches in garter stitch: Begin 2 stitches before the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch and knit 2 together.

Worked back and forth in 2 parts and sewn together when finished.

Cast on 81-89-97-107-119-133 stitches with Muskat on circular needle size 4 mm. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work rib as follows (1st row = right side): Work 3 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, knit 1 stitch, repeat A.1 (= 2 stitches) until 3 stitches remain on row, work 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern back and forth like this until A.1 has been worked vertically. Then work A.2 (= 2 stitches) over A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 5 cm, cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the next 2 rows (marks where vents end) = 83-91-99-109-121-135 stitches.

Work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, A.2 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When piece measures 7 cm, increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side - READ INCREASE TIP!
Repeat increase when piece measures 10 cm = 87-95-103-113-125-139 stitches. When piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm, work from arrow in A.3 over the middle 7 stitches on row - adjust so that this row marked with arrow is worked from wrong side. On first row from right side after A.3 work over the first 44-48-52-57-63-70 stitches on row and slip the remaining 44-48-52-57-63-70 stitches on 1 stitch holder.

= 44-48-52-57-63-70 stitches. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION - decrease for neck and armhole at the same time as follows:
Work pattern A.2 as before with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards neck and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side.
On first row from right side begin decrease for neck. Decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch - READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every other row (i.e. on every row from right side) 16-18-20-22-24-26 times in total.
When piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm, work in garter stitch over the outermost 10-10-12-11-11-14 stitches towards the side (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch). When 4 rows have been worked (= 2 ridges) over these stitches, cast off the first 7-7-9-8-8-11 stitches at beginning of row for armhole. Work the next 3 stitches in garter stitch (= edge towards armhole). Decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. Decrease like this every other row (i.e. on every row from right side) 10-12-12-14-18-20 times in total.

After all cast offs and decreases for armhole and neck, 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches remain on row for strap. Continue the pattern as before with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. Work strap as shown in A.4 - choose diagram for size. When piece measures 39-41-43-45-47-49 cm, cast off all stitches.

Slip the 44-48-52-57-63-70 stitches from stitch holder in the other side back on circular needle size 4 mm and work the same way as right side at the back but reversed – NOTE: When casting off for armhole in the side, cast off at beginning of row from wrong side (instead of beginning of row from right side). The remaining decreases for armhole and neck are done from right side.

Cast on and work as back piece.

Sew the two straps together with grafting/kitchener stitches to avoid a chunky seam. Sew side seam inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side from armhole and down to vent. Repeat in the other side. Fasten off.


symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = knit 1 in front and back loop of same stitch (= 1 stitch increased)
symbols = begin on this row - adjust to begin from wrong side

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 178-66) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Jessica 07.05.2021 - 13:32:

Hi again! Thanks for the help, it clears things up, but I’m still not sure what I should be doing when I switch to the A.3 chart. It says the row marked by the arrow should be worked from the WS, but to do that, I’d have to work the row below from the RS, meaning I’d be doing a row of knitting. But the A.2 pattern states that for RS rows I should P1 K1. I’m not sure how these two charts fit together. Any help would be great.

country flag Jessica 07.05.2021 - 11:22:

Hi! I’m a little confused about what to do once I’ve done the first 8 rows in A.1. I’m finishing on the WS so starting A.2 on the RS with a P1 K1 and 3 garter stitches at each end, then on the WS purling all stitches, but from previous comments that doesn’t seem to be the correct pattern, and after I got to switching to A.3, doing the row indicated by the arrow on the WS indicates that the previous RS row should be all knitted, not P1 K1 as I have done. Any help would be appreciated.

user icon DROPS Design 07.05.2021 kl. 13:00:

Dear Jessica, the garter stitches in A.2 (= P from RS, P from WS) should be worked over the P stitches in A.1, so that you will work A.2 from RS: 3 sts in garter st, K1, (P1, K1) repeat from (to) and finish with 3 sts in garter stitch and from WS: K3, P to the last 3 sts, P3. Happy knitting!

country flag Katzilicious 06.05.2021 - 07:39:

I'm confuse about worked A.1 until it had been vertically worked and work A.2 over A.1 can you please explain? Thank you

user icon DROPS Design 06.05.2021 kl. 07:45:

Dear Katzilicious, work first the 8 rows in A.1 as explained: (from RS = 3 sts in garter stitch, knit 1, repeat A.1 (read from the right towards the left= P1, K1), 3 sts in garter st / from WS: 3 sts in garter st, A.1 (read from the left towards the right = P1, K1), P1, 3 sts in garter st). Then work: 3 sts in garter st, knit 1, repeat A.2 (= 1 st in garter st, 1 st in stocking st), and finish with 3 sts in garter st, from WS: 3 sts in garter st, repeat A.1 (=1 st in stocking st = P, 1 st in garter st = K), P1, 3 sts in garter st. Hope this help. Happy knitting!

country flag Diana 29.03.2021 - 22:35:

I prefer written instructions as opposed to charts. Is there anyone who has written out the instructions? Also, there are no instructions on how many inches or rows we need to knit for each diagram. I am a long time knitter but find almost all of the patterns here quite confusing with no written instructions or actual row/inches for each size. I understand the patterns are translated from Norwegian and it is not an easy task to ensure everything is explained in detail.

user icon DROPS Design 30.03.2021 kl. 11:50:

Dear Diana, we use charts insted of written out instructions not only because they are available in many languages, but also because we believe that with charts one can see not only the very next step, but one can see teh larger picture, as how stitches and rows relate to each other en large. We also have a lesson about how to read diagrams here, and one can always ask for help in the store where they bought their DROPS yarn from (over the phone or in person). We have many knitters who actually prefer diagrams to written instructions. Happy Knitting!

country flag Müller 17.01.2021 - 23:25:

Guten Tag, ich vertehe nicht beim Rückenteil, dass man A.2 über A.1 stricken soll, wie wird das gemeint? Dann steht da außerdem, dass man A2 stricken soll bis 1 Masche übrig ist. Soll man also die reihe so oft wiederholen bis 1 Masche übrig ist und dass dann mit allen einzelnen reihen von A2? Danke im voraus!

user icon DROPS Design 18.01.2021 kl. 11:16:

Liebe Frau Müller, Sie sollen die 2 Maschen von A.2 über die 2 Maschen von A.1 stricken/in der Breite wiederholen, so haben Sie 1 Masche kraus rechts (= die 1. Masche in A.2) über die linke Masche von A.1 und die rechte Masche in A.2 stricken Sie über die rechte Masche in A.1. Beim A.1 hatten Sie 1 linke Masche beidseitig innerhalb die rechte Masche vor/nach den 3 M krausrechts - hier wird das gleiche, Dann stricken Sie mit A.2 und 1 M krausrechts beidseitig + 1 Masche glatt rechts nach der 1. Randmasche. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Melanie 15.01.2021 - 08:30:

Hallo, ich verstehe den Anfang des Rückenteils nicht. Wieso steht da zweimal 1. Reihe. Erst steht da 1. Rück Reihe und dann 1. Vor Reihe. Warum steht das 2 mal da und müsste es nicht it vor Reihe beginnen? Ich würde noch gerne wissen, wie man stricken muss, falls man das Top länger als angegeben haben möchte. Danke im Voraus!

user icon DROPS Design 15.01.2021 kl. 15:16:

Liebe Melanie, nach Anschlag stricken Sie alle Maschen links = diese Reihe wird von der Rückseite gearbeitet. Dann stricken Sie die nächste Reihe von der Vorderseite = Hinreihe mit A.1 (= 1. Reihe = Hinreihe) und 3 M kraus rechts beidseitig. Leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jedem Wunsch umrechnen. Gerne kann Ihnen Ihr DROPS Händler damit helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Alysha Magtuto 01.08.2020 - 11:27:

Hello! When we get to the row of A.2 where we cast on 1 stitch at the end of the row, do we start the following row by knitting the stitch that was just casted on?

user icon DROPS Design 03.08.2020 kl. 07:42:

Dear Mrs Magtuto, after you have cast on 1 st at the end of first of 2 rows, knit the new st (= edge stitch in garter stitch) then after you have cast on 1 st at the end of 2nd row, work: 1 edge st in garter st, K1, A.2 until 1 st remain, 1 edge st in garter st. Happy knitting!

country flag Winki 27.07.2020 - 17:06:

Zeigt das Muster die Maschen wie sie auf der Vorderseite erscheinen? Bei A3 ist die Reihe mit dem Pfeil aber eine Hinreihe!

user icon DROPS Design 28.07.2020 kl. 11:21:

Liebe Winki, ja, es sind alle Reihen eingezeichnet und A.1 und A.2 beginnen mit einer Hin-Reihe. Bei A.3 soll allerdings tatsächlich mit einer Rück-Reihe begonnen werden (Reihe mit Pfeil), damit sich der V-Ausschnitt, den Sie mit A.3 einleiten, optisch absetzt. Gutes Gelingen!

country flag Liesel Thompson 17.07.2020 - 16:12:

Please clarify for me? For A2 pattern is the 2nd row Which will be worked from the wrong side be a row of purl stitch or knit stitch please?

user icon DROPS Design 20.07.2020 kl. 07:32:

Hi Liesel, Row 2 in A.2 is purled, as it is from the wrong side. Happy knitting!

country flag Liesel Thompson 15.07.2020 - 22:26:

Please explain how there are 48 stitches on the left and right back when the total stitches are 95? After 20cm working on 95 stitches are we meant to increase 1 somewhere?

user icon DROPS Design 16.07.2020 kl. 09:59:

Dear Mrs Thompson, you increase one stitch in A.3 (next to last row = 3rd symbol from diagram text) so that there are 96 sts on needle. Happy knitting!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 178-66

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

From the #dropsfan gallery


Gabi, Germany


Jenny, Finland