Toes and Stripes by DROPS Design

Felted slippers with stripes, worked from the toe backwards in DROPS Lima.

Keywords: slippers, stripes, tå op
DROPS Extra 0-1362
DROPS Design: Pattern no li-075
Yarn group B
Sizes: US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/42
Foot length: approx. 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100 g for all sizes in color 9015, gray
50 g for all sizes in color 0100, off white

NOTE: If the slippers are worked in one color, there will be sufficient yarn with 100-100-150 g Lima.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM / US 6 – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height before felting.
After felting: 23 stitches and 32 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 3.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 3.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. 1 round knit and 1 round purl.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = 2 rows knit.

Work * 1 ridge off white, 1 ridge gray *, repeat from *-* to finished measurements.

Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to prevent holes.

The piece is worked in the round from the toe backwards, then work back and forth over the heel. Sew together mid back and mid front of the toe.

Cast on 28 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and gray. Knit 1 round and insert 1 marker in the first stitch and 1 marker in the 15th stitch (= the sides). Continue with stockinette stitch AT THE SAME TIME as, on the next round, you increase 1 stitch on each side of both markers (= 4 stitches increased on the round) – READ INCREASE TIP! Increase in this way every 2nd round 3-4-4 more times, then increase 1 stitch before each marker (= 2 stitches increased on the round) 0-0-1 times = 44-48-50 stitches. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue working stockinette stitch until the piece measures 13-14-15½ cm / 5"-5½"-6 1/4''.
Work 2 RIDGES in the round – see description above, AT THE SAME TIME as you insert a marker mid top of foot after the first 11-12-13 stitches. Cut the strand.
Start after the marker (from the right side) and work STRIPES and RIDGES back and forth – see description above. Bind off when the piece measures approx. 26-28½ -31½ cm / 10 1/4"-11 1/4"-12½" (let the strand end be approx. 20 cm / 8'' long, this is used for assembly).

Fold the binding-off edge double and sew together mid back – sew in the outermost stitch so that the seam is not too thick.
Sew together the hole at the front of the toe with graft stitches in gray – sew the 14 stitches on top of the foot with the 14 stitches under the foot.

Work another slipper in the same way.

Put the slippers in the washing machine with a detergent without enzymes and optical bleach. Wash hot at 40C/104F with the normal spin and without pre-wash. Afterwards, put the slippers on your feet and shape them to the right measurements while they are still wet. Later, wash the slippers as wool garments.

If the piece is not felted enough and is too big: Wash the piece one more time in the washing machine while it is still wet add a terry towel that measures approx. 50 x 70 cm = 19 3/4" x 27 1/2" - NOTE: Do not use a short program.
If the piece has been felted too much and is too small: While the piece is still wet stretch it to the correct measurements, if the piece is dry, make sure to soak it first.
Remember: All subsequent washes are as a normal wool garment.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1362) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Debbie wrote:

This is a great pattern. It actually works not all the felted slipper pattern do!

27.12.2019 - 01:43

country flag Christina wrote:

Da jeg er allergisk overfor uld fra får. Kan jeg da bruge Puna istedet?

05.11.2019 - 12:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Christina. DROPS Puna er 100% ull fra Alpaca og så lenge du ikke er allergisk mot alpaca ull skulle det gå greit, men jeg ville ha testet med en liten prøve før jeg bega meg på et stort prosjekt. God Fornøyelse!

11.11.2019 - 09:19

country flag Ana Clerins wrote:

Once I start with grey&white stripes, I place a marker after the first 12 stitches. The I knit in garter. What do I do with thise 12 stitches, leave them to wait and not knit or cast off or knit in garter stitch

11.01.2019 - 21:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ana. Moviendo el marcapuntos 12 puntos estamos desplazando el inicio de la fila. Después seguimos trabajando sobre todos los puntos ( incluido los 12 puntos)

13.01.2019 - 18:16

country flag Dorthe wrote:

Skal der strikkes hele vejen rundt fra mærket midt på foden ? Jeg kan ikke se hvordan man skal sy sammen under foden ??? Skal der strikkes i 2 stykker fra mærket til midt bag ??

02.11.2018 - 17:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Dorthe. Du strikker rundt fra tåen og frem til du setter et merke midt oppå foten (når arbeidet måler ca 13-14-15½ cm.) Videre strikkes det frem og tilbake på pinnen, fra merket midt oppå foten. Det vil si at den delen med striper (hælen) er strikket frem og tilbake. God fornøyelse.

05.11.2018 - 07:57

country flag Inger Hiaasen wrote:

Vil gjerne bruke drops eskimo på denne oppskriften, hvordan forholder jeg meg til antall masker pinnestørrelse og mål Kunne også tenkt meg enda en større størrelse (44/46) Blir veldig glad om jeg kunne få svar meget raskt, da jeg ville lage disse som presanger og ikke har så lang tid på meg 1000 takk

03.05.2018 - 12:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Inger, Vi har flere filtede tøfler i Eskimo, det er bedre du bruger de opskrifter: tovede tøfler

09.05.2018 - 13:54

country flag Lisbeth Larsen wrote:

Opskriften passer. Til gengæld passer garnangivelsen IKKE: Der er for lidt af den naturfarvede, hvis man følger farvesammensætningen. Mangler til den ene bagstrop og snørrebånd! Til gengæld er der RIGELIGT i de andre farver, hvor jeg har 2 nøgler af den aqua og 1 nøgle af den havblå til overs. Har hæklet den mindste størrelse. MEN hellere for meget end for lidt! med venlig hilsen Lisbeth

16.02.2018 - 15:24

country flag Vibeke Nyrop wrote:

Der er noget der ikke passer i denne opskrift: Der slås 28 masker op og tages 1 maske ud på hver side af begge mærker (= 4 masker taget ud på omgangen) 3-4-4 gange til, hvorefter der tages 1 maske ud før hvert mærke (= 2 masker taget ud på omgangen) 0-0-1 gang = 44-48-50 masker. (for str. 38 bliver det: 28+4x4+0=44m og ikke 48m) Senerre sættes der et mærke midt ovenpå foden efter de første 11-12-13 masker. Er det det korrekte antal masker?

01.11.2017 - 18:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Vibeke. Det er riktig slik det står i oppskriften. Det står: Tag ud således på hver 2.omgang 3-4-4 gange til, ... Altså; det står beskrevet hvordan du øker og deretter skal du gjøre det 3-4-4 gange til (Totalt 4-5-5 ganger). Da stemmer maskeantallet med hvor merket som settes oppå foten. God Fornøyelse!

02.11.2017 - 14:00

country flag Coleen Gray wrote:

When measuring for the length of the slipper, ie "Cast off when the piece measures approx.26-28½ -31½ cm", do you measure from the start of the garter stitch or from the original cast on? I am asking because I don't have anywhere near the same number of stripes as in the picture for this pattern, although my gauge is correct,

29.04.2017 - 13:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gray, this should be total length (= from cast on). Remember to keep same tension when working garter st. Happy knitting!

02.05.2017 - 09:02

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