Garden Party by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with lace pattern in DROPS Paris. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern w-647
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
700-800-850-950-1050-1150 g color 25, moss green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16"+ 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 1 pieces for all sizes


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

Decrease on each side of marker thread. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease as follows: Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

Begin 1 stitch before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round.

Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 205-217-233-249-269-289 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Then work as follows from right side: 2 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 A (= 3 stitches), A.1 B over the next 20 stitches (= 2 repetitions), finish with A.1 C (= 8 stitches), work in stockinette stitch over the next 139-151-167-183-203-223 stitches, A.1 A, A.2 B over the next 20 stitches, A.1 C and finish with 2 band stitches in garter stitch. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 61-64-68-72-77-82 stitches in from each side (back piece = 83-89-97-105-115-125 stitches). Continue pattern upwards, when piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' decrease 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread, decrease every 4½-4½-4½-5-5-5 cm / 1 3/4"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-2"-2"-2" 7 times in total = 177-189-205-221-241-261 stitches. When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17'', work as follows (all decreases in the side are now done): Work as before over the first 54-57-61-65-70-75 stitches (= front piece), work 4-7-11-15-15-20 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1 A, A.1 B over the next 50-50-50-50-60-60 stitches, A.1 C, 4-7-11-15-15-20 stitches in stockinette stitch and work the last 54-57-61-65-70-75 stitches as before (= front piece).

When piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm / 19''-19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½''-21'', bind off 4-6-6-6-6-6 stitches in each side (= bind off 2-3-3-3-3-3 stitches on each side of every marker thread), and finish each part separately.

= 65-69-77-85-95-105 stitches. Continue pattern as before and bind off for armholes at the beginning of every row in each side as follows: 2 stitches 0-1-1-2-3-5 times and 1 stitch 0-0-3-4-6-6 times = 65-65-67-69-71-73 stitches. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'', bind off the middle 25-25-27-29-31-33 stitches for neck. On next row decrease 1 stitch from the neck = 19 stitches remain on each shoulder in all sizes. Bind off when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'' and work the other shoulder the same way.

= 52-54-58-62-67-72 stitches. Continue pattern as before and bind off for armhole as on back piece = 52-52-53-54-55-56 stitches. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'', bind off the first 19 stitches from right side = 33-33-34-35-36-37 stitches remain on needle. Slip the remaining stitches on a stitch holder.

Work as left front piece but reversed.

Sew the shoulder seams.

Work stitches from right front piece, pick up 31-31-33-35-37-39 stitches from neck at the back (= 25-25-27-29-31-33 stitches along the bind off for neck and 3 stitches in each side) and work stitches from left front piece = 97-97-101-105-109-113 stitches. Knit 1 row from wrong side while at the same time increasing 20 stitches evenly = 117-117-121-125-129-133 stitches. Work 3 ridges in total back and forth. Bind off.

Work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to short circular needle when needed.
Cast on 35-37-39-41-43-45 stitches on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 with Paris. Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, then work in stockinette stitch until finished measurements. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - READ INCREASE TIP. Increase every 4½-4-3½-2½-2½-2 cm / 1 3/4"-1½"-1 1/4"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4" 9-10-11-13-14-15 times in total = 53-57-61-67-71-75 stitches. When piece measures 49-49-48-48-46-45 cm / 19 1/4"-19 1/4"-19"-19"-18"-17 3/4", bind off 6 stitches mid under sleeve (= 3 stitches on each side of marker thread), continue sleeve back and forth on needle. Bind off for sleeve cap at beginning of every row in each side as follows: 2 stitches 2-2-2-2-3-3 times, 1 stitch 1-2-3-4-4-6 times, and 2 stitches in each side until piece measures 55-56-56-57-57-58 cm / 21 5/8''-22''-22''-22½''-22½''-22¾''. Bind off 3 stitches in each side, and bind off the remaining stitches. Make another sleeve the same way.

Sew in sleeves. Sew on button on left front piece, approx. 35 cm / 13 3/4'' up from bottom edge and in transition between pattern and stockinette stitch. Button through holes in pattern on right band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 02.02.2018
under JACKET: Correct is: A.1 A, A.1 B over the next 20 stitches, and not A.1 A, A.2 B over the next 20 stitches... (there is no chart A.2 B in this pattern).


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over stitch worked

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (29)

country flag Sarah wrote:

Hi, I'm knitting the jacket part of the garden pattern. I have 177 sts. The next part says work the first 54 sts as before. Then knit 4sts. Then work from chart A1 a, A1b over next 50 sts but it doesn't divide into 50 because a has 3 sts, b has 10. Then I knit A1 c which is 8 sts. Next knit 4st. Then knit 54 as before. I also have 2 sts either end. That adds up to 178 not 177? What I am doing wrong? Can you help me please?

28.10.2021 - 17:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sarah, you work 54 sts, + knit 4 + 3 (= A.1A) + 50 (=A.1B; = 10sts x 5 times)+ 8 (= A.1C) + knit 4 + 54 sts. In total, there are 177 stitches.

01.11.2021 kl. 12:57

country flag Theresa Archer wrote:

Has anyone got this pattern written out do you don't have to follow the chart I would find it much easier.

30.03.2021 - 18:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear theresa, we use charts insted of written out instructions not only because they are available in many languages, but also because we believe that with charts one can see not only the very next step, but one can see teh larger picture, as how stitches and rows relate to each other en large. We also have a lesson about how to read diagrams here, and one can always ask for help in the store where they bought their DROPS yarn from (over the phone or in person). We have many knitters who actually prefer diagrams to written instructions. Happy Knitting!

30.03.2021 kl. 19:47

country flag Liliana wrote:

Buongiorno come posso lavorare i vostri modelli con i ferri tradizionali e. In i ferri circolari? Ci sono tanti bei modelli e tante lane bellissime ma non riesco a farli perché non so lavorare con i ferri circolari Potete aiutarmi ? Grazie mille e attendo una vostra risposta Cordialmente Liliana

17.02.2021 - 11:20

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Liliana, questo modello è un cardigan ed è lavorato in piano, per cui può lavorarlo con i ferri normali. In questo caso vengono utilizzati i ferri circolari a causa dell'elevato numero di maglie. Buon lavoro!

17.02.2021 kl. 15:03

country flag Karin Neumann wrote:

Bei der Halsblende 31 Maschen je Vorderteil, 25 Maschen hinterer Halsrand und je 3 Maschen beidseitig davon ergibt Summe: 93 Maschen, nicht wie angegeben 97 Maschen, muss das heißen: 33 Maschen (die effektiv überbleiben) je Vorderteil?

09.11.2019 - 14:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Neumann, es sind 33 M übrig am Ende rechten Vorderteil; es werden 31 M aufgefassen und es sind 33 M übrig am Ende linken Vorderteil: 33+31+33= 97 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.11.2019 kl. 10:39

country flag Anne wrote:

Wanneer ik dit vest zo'n 20cm langer wil maken, hoe veel extra garen heb ik dan nodig? Alvast bedankt.

28.02.2019 - 18:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anne,

Dat zou ik zo niet uit mijn hoofd weten; ik denk ongeveer 3 bollen, maar dat hangt ook van je maat af. Je kunt het verkooppunt vragen binnen welke termijn je bollen in kunt leveren, mocht je wat over houden.

07.03.2019 kl. 21:55

country flag Donna Beranek wrote:

I love your patterns. There doesn’t seem to be a way to download them. Am I missing something?

04.10.2018 - 19:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Beranek, our pattern can only be printed, but choosing a virtual printer may allow you to save them as .PDF files. Happy knitting!

05.10.2018 kl. 07:26

country flag Herbjørg Larsen wrote:

Hva er en stolpemaske i rille?

16.03.2018 - 20:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Herbjørg, de 2 yderste masker i hver side mod midt foran skal strikkes i riller og den lille forkant kaldes stolpe. God fornøjelse!

20.03.2018 kl. 09:59

country flag Agneta Wickman wrote:

Hej! Stickar stl S. Efter 7 minskningar återstår 177 maskor. Sedan står det så här: "Sticka som förut över de första 54-57-61-65-70-75 maskorna (= framstycke), sticka 4-7-11-15-15-20 maskor slätstickning, A.1 A, A.1 B över de nästa 50-50-50-50-60-60 maskorna, A.1 C, 4-7-11-15-15-20 maskor slätstickning och sticka de sista 54-57-61-65-70-75 maskorna som förut (= framstycke)." Min fråga är hur kan 54 maskor+ 4 maskor+50 maskor+4 maskor+54 maskor bli 177 maskor?

05.02.2018 - 22:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Agneta. Ser ut som du har glemt å regne med A.1A (=3 masker) og A.1C (= 8 masker). Du strikker som før over de første 54 maskene, strikk 4 masker glattstrikk, A.1 A (=3 masker), A.1 B over de neste 50 maskene, A.1 C (=8 masker), 4 masker glattstrikk og strikk de siste 54 maskene som før (= forstykke) = 54+4+3+50+8+4+54= 177 masker. God Fornøyelse!

06.02.2018 kl. 08:34

country flag Agneta Wickman wrote:

Enligt mönstret......"A.2 B över de nästa 20 maskorna,...." Det finns inget diagram som heter A2. När rättar ni i mönstret?

01.02.2018 - 12:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Agneta. Her har det nok vært en tastefeil, det skal være A.1 B over de neste 20 masker. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette, det vil bli lagt til en rettelse så fort som mulig. mvh Drops design

02.02.2018 kl. 07:25

country flag Sonja Andersson wrote:

Mönster Drops 175-12. Jag har börjat sticka på denna tröja storlek L och använder 4,5 mm stickor. Lagt upp 233 maskor och stickat några cm. Vid mätning blir det 1,90 m långt!!! Var ligger felet?

28.11.2017 - 14:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sonja. Det er viktig å overholde strikkefastheten som er oppgitt i oppskriften. 17 masker = 10 cm. 233 masker = ca 138 cm. Strikk en prøvvelapp og sjekkut hvilken pinnestørrelse du trenger for å få 17 masker på 10 cm. God Fornøyelse!

29.11.2017 kl. 13:43

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