DROPS / 177 / 30

Sea Hug by DROPS Design

Knitted scarf with lace pattern in DROPS Lace.

Tags: lace, scarves, shawls, stole,

DROPS design: Pattern no la-032
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Approx. 37 x 200 cm / 14½" x 79"
Materials:
DROPS LACE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100 g color 6410, turquoise

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 3 mm / US 2.5 - NOTE: Read about the knitting gauge below.
+ an extra circular needle in the same size for cast-on edge.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 5.40 $ /50g
DROPS Lace uni colour DROPS Lace uni colour 5.40 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Lace mix DROPS Lace mix 5.40 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
KNITTING GAUGE:
The scarf will be soaked and stretched to size afterwards. The knitting gauge is therefore not that important, but to get a sense of whether you are knitting to loose/hard work a test in stockinette stitch on needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. The test should give approx. 24 stitches and 32 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

SHAPING:
When using another yarn from yarn group A, there is no need to stretch to measurements, but place it gently out in shape and leave to dry. Repeat the process when the scarf has been washed.
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SCARF:
Worked in 2 parts that are sewn together in the middle.

PART 1: Cast on 116 stitches on 2 circular needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Lace. Pull out one circular needle (cast-on is done like this to avoid a tight cast-on edge). Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Work next row as follows from the right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 over the next 110 stitches (= 5 repetitions of 22 stitches), finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 86 stitches on row.
* Work next row as follows from right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.2 over the next 80 stitches (= 5 repetitions of 16 stitches), finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.3 the same way. When A.3 has been worked 2 times vertically, work A.4 the same way *. After A.4 repeat from *-* 3 more times (= 4 repetitions in total) but finish last repetition after row marked with arrow in diagram. Work 2 ridges in garter stitch, slip stitches on 1 stitch holder or LOOSELY bind off by knitting from right side.

PART 2: Work as part 1.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the two part tog in the middle with grafting/kitchener stitches (if stitches have been bind off sew together inside bind-off edge).

BLOCKING:
Place the scarf in lukewarm water until it is soaking wet. Carefully squeeze out the water - do not twist. Roll the scarf in a towel and squeeze to remove more water - the scarf will now only be moist. Place the scarf on a carpet or mattress - carefully stretch it out to size and fasten it with pins. Leave to dry. Repeat the process when the piece has been washed. NOTE: If another yarn in yarn group A has been used - READ SHAPING!

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= no stitch, skip this square
= between 2 stitches make 2 yarn-over on needle, on next row purl one yarn-over and drop the other yarn-over off the needle (= hole)
= between 2 stitches make 3 yarn-over on needle, on next row purl one yarn over, purl the second yarn-over twisted and drop the third yarn-over off the needle (= hole)
= BOBBLE: Knit 1, 1 yarn-over, knit 1, 1 yarn-over, knit 1 in same stitch (= 5 stitches), turn piece. Work 4 rows in stocking stitch over these 5 stitches Then pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, pass third stitch over first stitch, pass fourth stitch over first stitch and pass fifth stitch over first stitch (= 1 stitch remains).
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 177-30) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (18)

Agatha 06.10.2019 - 19:15:

Huhu.\r\nWas bedeutet beim schwarzen Kästchen\" keine Masche Kästchen übersprinhen.. \"? Ich habe ja eine Masche an der Stelle, nehme ich die nur über ohne sie in irgendeiner Form zu stricken?\r\nGruß Agatha

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 10:25:

Liebe Agatha, es wird in A.1 abgenommen, bei der nächsten Reihe gibt es dann weniger Maschen = die schwarze Kästchen. Wenn A.1 fertig ist, sind es nur noch 16 M in jedem A.1. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Eliabeth 05.10.2019 - 12:10:

J'arrive à la fin de la première partie et pour éviter un grafting de côtes mousse au milieu, je me demande s'il serait possible de continuer directement la deuxième partie en retournant le motif du diagramme de haut en bas. Est-ce que ça pourrait fonctionner? Merci de votre réponse.

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 08:56:

Bonjour Elisabeth, pour que les deux extrémités de l'écharpe soient bien identiques, il vaut mieux les tricoter en 2 parties, vous pouvez peut-être en revanche ne pas tricoter les côtes mousse et faire votre grafting sur du jersey pour une démarcation moins visible au milieu de l'écharpe. Bon tricot!

Yolande Bilodeau 06.07.2019 - 22:43:

En A.4. à partir de la 13e ligne, il y a 2 diminutions et une seule augmentation... Aux lignes 15 et 19, il y a toujours plus de diminutions que de jetées... Est-ce normal? Merci

DROPS Design 08.07.2019 kl. 09:19:

Bonjour Mme Bilodeau, le nombre de mailles doit rester le même sur chacun de ces rangs, par ex. au rang 13, on diminue 1 m, on fait 3 jetés, et on diminue 1 m = on a diminué 2 mailles et augmenté 3 mailles, mais dans ces 3 jettés d'augmentation, on lâche le 3ème au rang 14 = il reste bien 2 augmentations pour 2 diminutions, le nombre de mailles reste le même. N'hésitez pas à bien placer des marqueurs entre chaque A.4 à tricoter, vous pourrez ainsi mieux vérifier votre nombre de mailles. Bon tricot!

Desiree 13.06.2019 - 20:46:

Goedendag, in het patroon gedeelte van A.2 begint het onderaan met 2 x hetzelfde stukje patroon. Door het samen breien van de steken komt dit niet uit met het aantal steken technisch. Klopt het dat A.2 een regel te veel heeft? Het is de eerste keer dat ik zo iets brei, en dat ik het niet snap misschien. Alvast dankjewel :)

DROPS Design 23.06.2019 kl. 20:41:

Dag Desiree,

Je breit A.2 een aantal keren in de breedte en 1 keer in de hoogte. Het aantal steken op de naald blijft hetzelfde, doordat het samenbreien gecompenseerd wordt door de omslagen. De derde naald van A.2 is inderdaad exact hetzelfde als de eerste naald, dus de gaatjes komen boven elkaar.

Isabella Lederer 22.02.2019 - 09:10:

Guten Tag Ein wunderschöner Schal. Meine Frage ist wieso strickt man 2 teile und nicht gleich die ganze Länge am Stück? Ich habe wahrscheinlich einen Denkfehler aber bitte helfen Sie mit den zu lösen ;) vielen Dank

DROPS Design 22.02.2019 kl. 09:18:

Liebe Frau Lederer, die beiden Teile werden beide von der kürzen Seite angefangen, damit die kürzer Seite gleich sind, dann werden die beiden Teilen zusammen genäht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Christelle 13.09.2018 - 12:49:

Bonjour j ai fait a1 et j ai 106 mailles ??? Faut il le faire qu une fois? Merci

DROPS Design 13.09.2018 kl. 13:19:

Bonjour Christelle, on diminue 6 m dans chaque A.1; comme on répète 5 fois A.1 en largeur, on va diminuer 5 x 6 m = 30 mailles au total quand A.1 est terminé, on avait 116 m - 30= il doit vous rester 86 mailles. Bon tricot!

VIVIANE 08.04.2018 - 16:18:

Bonjour, merci pour votre tutoriel. Je suis habituée à réaliser des écharpes en dentelles et je cherche de nouveaux modèles. Je ne comprends pourquoi le modèle se fait en 2 parties, à assembler. En fait ma question est : ne peut-on le faire en une seule partie, sans faire d'assemblage ? Je vous remercie pour votre attention.

DROPS Design 09.04.2018 kl. 10:37:

Bonjour Viviane, ce modèle se réalise en 2 parties pour que les extrémités soient identiques, et ces 2 parties seront ensuite assemblées entre elles (en grafting pour un assemblage plus invisible, c'est-à-dire sans rabattre les mailles à la fin de chacune de ces 2 parties). Bon tricot!

Christiane 19.03.2018 - 14:24:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas de quel montage de mailles il s'agit "Monter 116 mailles avec 2 aiguilles circulaires 3 en Lace. Retirer délicatement une des aiguilles circulaires". Pourriez-vous m'apporter des précisions SVP ? D'avance, je vous en remercie.

DROPS Design 19.03.2018 kl. 14:29:

Bonjour Christiane, la vidéo ci-dessous montre comment monter les mailles sur 2 aiguilles. Avec une aiguille circulaire, on procède de la même façon avec les 2 extrémités de l'aiguille. Bon tricot!

Ingeborg Gruber 26.02.2018 - 15:46:

Der Musterbeginn A1 mit Abnahme von 30 M nach dem Bündchen ist mir nicht schlüssig. Soll der Schal dadurch Wellen schlagen?

DROPS Design 26.02.2018 kl. 15:53:

Liebe Frau Gruber, in jedem A.1 werden 2 Maschen bei der 7., 9. und 11. Reihe abgenommen, dh bei der letzte Reihe in A.1 bleiben 16 M = 5 x 6 Abnahmen in jedem Rapport = 30 Abnahme nach A.1. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

ANNICK LE BOEDEC 02.12.2017 - 11:19:

Bonjour, je commence le modèle sea hug 177-30 sur le diagramme A.1 il y a des cases noires qui sont indiquées "pas de maille, sauter cette case" je ne comprends pas bien car des mailles il y en a !!! : faut-il passer les mailles sans les tricoler ?? merci pour vos explications

DROPS Design 04.12.2017 kl. 09:14:

Bonjour Mme Le Boedec, au rang 7 de A.1, vous avez diminué 2 mailles, au rang suivant, il restera 2 m en moins, ces mailles diminuées sont marquées par une case noire. Ainsi, au dernier rang de A.1, vous avez diminué 6 m au total, et on retrouve ces 6 cases noires = 6 diminutions. Bon tricot!

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Sea Hug

Mina Marie Dahle, Norway