Forest Dance by DROPS Design

Knitted dress with Nordic pattern in DROPS Karisma. Size children 3 - 12 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-069-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
300-350-400-500-550 g color no 72, light pearl gray
50-50-100-100-100 g color no 01, off white
50-50-100-100-100 color no 13, cerise

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40, 60 and 80 cm / 16", 24'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for rib - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 - for edge.

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100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INCREASE TIP:
Inc with YO, on next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. See diagram for size!

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

RIDGE: (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. K 1 round and P 1 round.
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DRESS:
Worked in the round, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 84-88-92-96-100 sts on a small circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light pearl gray. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid back). Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3-3-4-4-5 cm / 1"-1"-1½''-1½''-2'' (= neck edge). Switch to a short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 1 round while at the same time adjusting no of sts to 78-84-90-98-105. Then work an elevation at the back in stockinette st as follows: K 8 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and P 16 sts on return, turn, tighten yarn and K 24 sts, turn, continue by working 8 sts more on every turn until a total of 48-48-64-64-80 sts have been worked, turn and K 1 round until marker mid back again. Then work A.1 (= 13-14-15-14-15 repetitions in width) - see diagram for size. READ KNITTING TIP! REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Switch to a longer circular needle when there are enough sts. When A.1 has been worked, there are 208-224-240-252-270 sts on needle. Work 0-0-1-0-1 cm / 0"-0"-½"-0"-½" with light pearl gray. Piece now measures approx. 15-15-16-17-18 cm / 6"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4-7'' mid front (measured without rib in the neck). Work with light pearl gray and in stockinette st until finished measurements. First work 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-4-4-12-10 sts evenly = 212-228-244-264-280 sts. Work next round as follows: Work 31-33-35-37-39 sts, slip the next 44-48-52-58-62 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 6 new sts, work 62-66-70-74-78 sts (= front piece), slip the next 44-48-52-58-62 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 6 new sts, work 31-33-35-37-39 sts.

BODY:
= 136-144-152-160-168 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Now insert 6 markers in the piece as follows: Insert 1st marker at beg of round (= side), 2nd marker after 24-25-26-27-28 sts, 3rd marker after another 20-22-24-26-28 sts, 4th marker after another 24-25-26-27-28 sts (= side), 5th marker after another 24-25-26-27-28 sts, 6th marker after another 20-22-24-26-28 sts (24-25-26-27-28 sts remain on round after last marker). When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', inc as follows: Inc 1 st on each side of 1st and 4th marker, inc 1 st after 2nd and 5th marker and 1 st before 3rd and 6th marker – READ INCREASE TIP (= 8 sts inc). Inc every 2-2½-2½-3-3 cm / 3/4"-7/8"-7/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" 13-13-14-14-15 times in total = 240-248-264-272-288 sts.
When piece measures 29-34-38-42-46 cm / 11½"-13½"-15"-16½"-18", dec 0-2-0-2-0 st evenly on round = 240-246-264-270-288 sts, then work according to A.2. When A.2 has been worked one time vertically, there are 280-287-308-315-336 sts on round. Work 2 RIDGES - see explanation above, and bind off.

SLEEVE:
Slip sts from one stitch holder on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6, cast in addition on 6 sts mid under sleeve (insert 1 marker in the middle of these sts) = 50-54-58-64-68 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stockinette st in the round with light pearl gray. When sleeve measures 2 cm / 3/4'', dec 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat dec every 4½-3½-4-3-3½ cm / 1 3/4"-1 1/4"-1½"-1"-1 1/4" 5-7-7-10-10 times in total = 40-40-44-44-48 sts. When piece measures 20-25-29-32-36 cm / 8"-9 3/4"-11½"-12½"-14 1/4", adjust no of sts to = 42-42-48-48-48. Work A.3, when A.3 has been worked one time vertically, there are 49-49-56-56-56 sts on round. Work 2 ridges in garter st, bind off.
Work the same way over the sts on the other stitch holder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work a finishing edge around the bottom of dress on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 as follows with light pearl gray: 1 sc in first st, * ch 3, 1 dc in 1st ch worked, skip 2 or 3 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round. Fasten off.
Crochet the same way around the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 22.12.2016
New chart A.1 size 3/4-5/6-7/8 yrs added.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= off white
= cerise
= light pearl grey
= P with light pearl grey
= 1 YO
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 27-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

Helle 11.12.2019 - 22:31:

Skal omslagene i A.2 og A. 3 strikkes drejet på den følgende omgang?

DROPS Design 12.12.2019 kl. 08:13:

Hei Helle. Nei,kastene skal strikkes slik at det blir hull på neste omgang. Lykke til!

Agnes Holst Kazuhara 28.11.2019 - 21:19:

Mønster Diagram A1, skal det skrikkes i glatstrik eller retstrik = 1 omg vrang, 2 omg ret? Ryg- og forstykke: Strik 4 omg retstrik, hvordan skal det forstås, skal *1 omg vrang, 2 omg ret* gentages 4 omgange dvs. i alt 12 omgange? Ærme: Strik 4 omg retstrik, igen hvordan skal det forstås, skal *1 omg vrang, 2 omg ret* gentages 4 omgange dvs. i alt 12 omgange?

DROPS Design 29.11.2019 kl. 11:29:

Hei Agnes! Se gjerne vårt svar til kommentaren din under, vi håper det hjelper. Lykke til!

Agnes Holst Kazuhara 28.11.2019 - 21:15:

Mønster: Skal diag A1 strikkes i glatstrik eller retstrik (1. omg vrang, 2 omg ret osv)? Ryg- og forstykke : Strik 4 omg retstrik - hvordan skal dette forstås - skal "1. omg vrang, 2 omg ret" gentages 4 gange? Ærme: Strik 4 omg retstrik, igen - hvordan skal dette forstås - skal "1. omg vrang, 2 omg ret" gentages 4 gange?

DROPS Design 29.11.2019 kl. 10:57:

Hei Agnes! Kjolen strikkes rundt på rundpinne, derfor strikkes den bare i glattstrikk frem til kjolekanten når A.2 skal strikkes. Etter A.2 er strikket skal det strikkes 2 riller, 1 rille = første omgang rett, andre omgang vrang. For å få 2 riller må det da strikkes 4 omganger. Lykke til!

Stacey Hancharyk 03.11.2019 - 09:45:

Hi there, The pattern for the yoke says that the increases for the smallest size after A1 is 208 STS. I do not have that many stitches. Can you please tell me what the total number of stitches should be after every inc row in the yoke please. Thank you Stacey

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 16:47:

Dear Mrs Hancharyk , in the smallest size you start working A.1 over 6 sts, and then increase a sshown in diagram; when A.1 is done in height you should have 16 sts in each A.1; 16 sts x 13 repeats in width = 208 sts. Happy knitting!

Camée 01.07.2019 - 13:36:

Bonjour, dans l'âge 5 - 6 ans, j'arrive à seulement 12 répétitions du motif par rang..j'ai bien vérifié et fait exactement ce qui est écrit mais au total, il me manquait 28 mailles au total. j'arrive donc à 12 motifs avec 196 mailles.. Où est mon erreur SVP. merci

DROPS Design 01.07.2019 kl. 14:26:

Bonjour Mme Camée, en taille 5/6 ans, vous avez 84 m après les côtes du col, soit 14 motifs de 6 mailles = 84 mailles, quand A.1 est terminé en hauteur, vous avez 16 mailles dans chaque A.1 soit 14 motifs x 16 mailles = 224 mailles. Bon tricot!

Christine Sabatier 30.05.2019 - 20:27:

Bonjour, il est écrit pour le Dos &Devant "... mesurer maintenant à partir d'ici" et quelques lignes plus bas dans le même paragraphe "A 29-34-38-42-46 cm de hauteur totale, répartir 0-2-0-2-0 diminution." Pour moi la hauteur totale, c'est à partir du début de l'ouvrage, donc des côtes. Que faut-il comprendre ? Merci pour la réponse.

DROPS Design 31.05.2019 kl. 09:35:

Bonjour Mme Sabatier, la hauteur totale est ici à partir de la séparation de l'ouvrage, elle correspond ici à la partie entre la fin des emmanchures et la fin (proche) de la robe. Bon tricot!

Mc 01.03.2019 - 13:37:

Bonjour, Je ne vois pas d'explications au sujet des diminutions des manches, celles qui se font de part et d'autre du marqueur. Faut il prendre 2 mailles ensemble avant le marqueur, puis une maille coulée, une maille tricotée et repasser par dessus la maille coulée ?

DROPS Design 01.03.2019 kl. 14:54:

Bonjour Mc, tout à fait vous diminuez 2 mailles, 1 de chaque côté du marqueur: tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 m avant le marqueur du début du tour, 2 m ens à l'end, marqueur, glissez 1 m à l'end, 1 m end, passez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée. Bon tricot!

Nikole 22.02.2019 - 16:57:

Hallo Drops Team, ich hab 92 Maschen für Größe 7/8 angeschlagen und dann auf 90 abgenommen. Wie bekommen ich 15 x den Rapport in die Breit und wie nehme ich zu, sodass ich auf 240 M komme?? ich habe schon 3x neu angefangen aber immer das selbe Problem

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 07:55:

Liebe Nikole, Sie stricken jetzt A.1 (= 6 Maschen bei der 1. Runde) 15 x in der Breite (in der Runde), in A.1 werden Sie mit Umschläge abwechlungsweise am Anfang und am Ende jedes A.1 zunehmen, wenn A.1 fertig ist, haben Sie 16 M in jedem A.1 = 16 Maschen x 15 = 240 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Mc 01.02.2019 - 10:08:

Bonjour et merci pour votre réponse. Pouvez vous me dire à quelle niveau des explications figurent cette indication. Aurai je tronqué mon texte en l'imprimant ?

DROPS Design 01.02.2019 kl. 14:36:

Bonjour Mc, c'est indiqué au début du DOS & DEVANT: Placer maintenant 6 marqueurs ainsi: le 1er marqueur au début du tour (= côté).... Bon tricot!

Mc 30.01.2019 - 17:54:

Problème au niveau de la pose des marqueurs en débutant la partie dos devant. Pourquoi le 1er marqueur indique le "côté," alors que le tour démarre au demi dos ? Faut il inclure les mailles des manches lorsqu'on compte les mailles pour poser les marqueurs ? merci

DROPS Design 31.01.2019 kl. 09:21:

Bonjour Mc, le début des tours sur l'empiècement se trouve au milieu dos, mais pour le bas de la robe (dos & devant), on commence sur le côté, au milieu des 6 nouvelles mailles montées sous les manches. Dans cette section, les mailles des manches ont été mises en attente, on tricote la partie sous les manches jusqu'en bas de la robe. Bon tricot!

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