Spectre by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a circle in garter st with short rows in ”Delight”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Spectre / DROPS 171-25 - Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a circle in garter st with short rows in ”Delight”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Spectre / DROPS 171-25 - Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a circle in garter st with short rows in ”Delight”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Spectre / DROPS 171-25 - Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a circle in garter st with short rows in ”Delight”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no de-157
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-750-800 g color no 18, fall forest

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 41 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 for sleeve - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 3.90 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

SHORT ROWS IN GARTER ST - WITH YOS:
When turning and making a YO avoid holes in piece.
Short rows in garter st: Work no of sts described in pattern, slip 1 st as if to P, place strand on the front of piece, move the slipped st back on left needle. Turn piece. On next row when getting to the slipped st, work st and strand around it (YO) tog as one st and work the rest of row.

INCREASE TIP:
When picking up more sts than there are ridges (e.g. when picking up 140 sts evenly over the next 132 ridges), pick up 1 st in every ridge and make the remaining sts with 1 YO distributed evenly between sts. I.e. in this example pick up 132 sts in the 132 ridges and make YOs 8 times evenly = 140 sts. Work YO twisted on next row.
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CIRCLE:
Work first the outer circle, then pick up sts on the shortest curve on this and work circles in the middle.

OUTER CIRCLE:
Work piece back and forth in GARTER ST - see explanation above, until finished measurements. Cast on 70-72-74-76-78-80 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Delight.

PART 1:
Work 7-7-7-7-8-8 ridges (= 14-14-14-14-16-16 rows). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE On next row from RS work short rows as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): K the first 60-66-66-66-66-66 – READ SHORT ROWS IN GARTER ST – WITH YOS, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts, turn piece.
Row 3: K the first 54-60-60-60-60-60, turn.
Row 4: K all sts, turn piece.
Row 5: K the first 48-54-54-54-54-54, turn.
Row 6: Turn and K all sts, turn piece.

Continue to work short rows in garter st like this. I.e. work 6 sts less on every row from RS until 1 ridge has been worked (= 2 rows) over the last 6 sts (= 10-11-11-11-11-11 ridges, 17-18-18-18-19-19 ridges have been worked in total on the widest). Last row is from WS. Then work short rows as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): K the first 8 sts, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts, turn piece.
Row 3: K the first 14 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: K all sts, turn piece.
Row 5: K the first 20 sts, turn piece.
Row 6: Turn and K all sts, turn piece.
Continue to work short rows in garter st like this. I.e. work 6 sts more on every row from RS until 2-4-6-8-10-6 sts remain on row (= 11-11-11-11-11-12 ridges). Last row is from WS. Work 7-7-8-8-8-8 ridges over all sts.

14-14-15-15-16-16 ridges have been worked on the shortest and 35-36-37-37-38-39 ridges have been worked on the widest. Piece measures approx. 7-7-7-7-8-8 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3"-3" on the shortest and approx. 17-18-18-18-19-19 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-7"-7"-7½"-7½" on the widest.

Work 20-20-20-21-21-21 parts in total. Piece measures approx. 137-137-146-154-164-164 cm / 54"-54"-57½"-60½"-64½"-64½" on the shortest and approx. 341-351-361-379-389-400 cm / 134"-138"-142"-149"-153"-157½" on the widest. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew bind-off edge tog with cast-on edge, in outer loop of edge sts.

CIRCLE IN THE MIDDLE:
Work piece in the round on circular needle (switch to double pointed needles when needed) from the shortest side on the outer circle and in towards middle. Pick up from RS on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 as follows: Adjust so that seam is mid back.

Pick up 1 st in each of the first 35-37-40-41-43-45 ridges (i.e. over the next 70-74-80-82-86-90 rows), cast on 36-38-40-42-44-46 sts (for armhole), skip the next 35-37-39-41-43-45 ridges (= 70-74-78-82-86-90 rows in total), pick up 134-140-144-150-154-158 sts evenly over the next 140-132-142-151-164-156 ridges (= 280-264-284-302-328-312 rows in total) – READ INCREASE TIP, cast on 36-38-40-42-44-46 sts (for armhole), skip the next 35-37-39-41-43-45 ridges (= 70-74-78-82-86-90 rows in total), pick up 1 st in each of the first 35-37-40-41-43-45 ridges (i.e. over the next 70-74-80-82-86-90 rows) = 276-290-304-316-328-340 sts.

Now work in the round in GARTER ST - see explanation above, until finished measurements. P 1 round, insert 5 markers and dec evenly as follows: Dec 0-2-4-4-4-4 sts evenly on entire round and work as follows: * P 46-48-50-52-54-56, insert 1 marker *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, P the last 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts = 276-288-300-312-324-336 sts.

On next round, dec as follows: K 1, K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec), * work until 3 sts remain before next marker, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec), K 2 (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), K 2 tog (= 1 st dec) *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, work until 3 sts remain, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec), K 1 (= 12 sts dec in total).

Dec like this every 4th round until 24 sts remain. Work all sts tog 2 by 2 = 12 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Circle in the middle measures approx. 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm / 16½''-17¼''-18''-19''-19¾''-20½'' in diameter.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round from bottom up.
Cast on 46-48-50-52-56-58 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Delight. Work in garter st for 3 cm / 1''. Then work in stockinette st but assemble sleeves with WS outwards. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). When piece measures 6-10-6-10-10-8 cm / 2 1/4"-4"-2 1/4"-4"-4"-3", inc 1 st on each side of marker. Inc like this every 3-2½-2½-2-2-2 cm / 1 1/8"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" 16-17-19-20-20-22 times in total = 78-82-88-92-96-102 sts. Bind off when sleeve measures 53 cm / 21'' in total. Make another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Turn the sleeves and fasten them with WS outwards.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = outer circle
symbols = circle in the centre
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (54)

country flag Nina Cudjoe wrote:

Jag stickar 171-25 i storlek M i Drops Delight. Jag har två frågor angående mönstret. 1) Det står att en Bit börjar med 14 varv rätstickning, och slutar med 14 varv rätstickning. Betyder det att det blir 28 varv rätstickning mellan alla förkortade varv, eller har jag fattat fel? 2) I slutet av det andra förkortade varvet står att det är 4 maskor kvar. Ska dessa stickas på innevarande varv eller vänder man där och stickar dem på nästa varv från rätsidan? Mvh / Nina

19.07.2021 - 15:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Nina, det ser ut til att du får svaret på nästa rad. Det har nu stickats 28-28-30-30-32-32 v rätst på det kortaste stället och 70-72-74-74-76-78 v rätst på det bredaste stället. Arb mäter ca 7-7-7-7-8-8 cm på det kortaste stället och ca 17-18-18-18-19-19 cm på det bredaste stället.

04.08.2021 kl. 12:11

country flag Elma wrote:

Hallo, ik zie nu dat ik het fout lees. Geen antwoord nodig. Groeten.

22.05.2021 - 20:38

country flag Elma wrote:

Hallo, ik houd bij het tweede deel van part 1 geen twee steken over. Eerste deel is 8 plus 11 keer 6, maar dat is het tweede deel ook. Dus hoe kan ik dan twee steken overhouden?

22.05.2021 - 17:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Elma,

Heb het nageteld en wanneer je 70 steken op hebt gezet en je breit eerst 8 steken en daarna steeds 6 steken erbij dan zou je 2 steken over moeten houden. 70 min de 8 eerste steken en min de laatste 2 steken = 60. Dus je breit 10 keer 6 steken meer.

02.06.2021 kl. 12:02

country flag Gudrun Schneider wrote:

På tegningen ser det ikke ut som om ermet er rett øverst. Når jeg prøver jakken ser det ut som det burde vært minsket øverst på ermet etter 53 cm for å få dekket øverste del av armen. Er det sikkert at oppskriften stemmer?

11.04.2021 - 20:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gudrun. Oppskriften skal stemme. Slike sirkel jakker blir litt anderledes å ha på seg enn "vanlige"jakker. mvh DROPS design

12.04.2021 kl. 15:35

country flag Claudia wrote:

Hallo, ich habe ein Problem mit dem inneren Kreis. Ich stricke für XXL. Habe 21 mal die Segmente vom Aussenkreis gestrickt. Das ergibt bei mir je Segment aber nur 8 Krausrippen auf der Innenseite, weil ja nur 8 mal die Reihen bis zum Ende gestrickt werden, die anderen sind verkürzt. Wie kann ich jetzt für den inneren Kreis zunehmen?

10.01.2021 - 10:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Claudia,bei den verkürzten Reihen haben Sie 16 Krausrippe für die Innenseite (und 38 Krausrippen für die Ausserseite): 8 Krausrippen werden davor und danach gestrickt. Wenn Sie nicht die richtigen Krausrippenanzahl haben, dann könnten die fertigen Maßen nicht korrekt sein, oder dann sollen Sie anders anpassen. Bei XL sollen Sie nach den aussen Kreis insgesamt 21 Mal 16 Krausrippen = 336 Krausrippen für die Innenseite haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.01.2021 kl. 09:26

country flag Janet wrote:

On sleeve instructions it says to work up to 10cm then start increasing, please clarify based on your previous answer saying to increase from 2cm after garter stitch band. Thank you for help.

16.07.2020 - 18:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Janet, measurements will still check: start inc at 10 cm, then inc at 12 (= 2nd inc), 14 cm, 16 cm etc.. last increase will be at 48cm, continue until sleeve measures 53 cm then cast off. Happy knitting!

17.07.2020 kl. 08:08

country flag Janet wrote:

I am currently working on the sleeves. What does it mean to work sleeve WS outward? Working in the round in stocking stitch increasing every 2cms x20. It looks like my sleeve will be longer than 53cms. Please can you confirm the process of making the sleeve?

16.07.2020 - 15:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Janet, sleeves are worked/sewn in reversed stocking stitch stitch (= purl stitches facing outside), but since most people rather knit then purl in the round, you work from WS (= knitting all stitches) and at the very end, you turn sleeve outside innside to get the knit side innside. You start inc when piece measures 2 cm, then 4 cm, 6 cm etc.. last inc will be at 40 cm. Happy knitting!

16.07.2020 kl. 16:22

country flag MARIE Christiane wrote:

Bonjour. A la fin de la partie 1 on obtient 7 cm dans la partie la + courte et 18cm dans la + grande (tailleM) on fait 21 fois en tout cette partie 1. donc 7cm X par 21=147cm au plus court et 18cmX21=378cm et non pas comme vous l'indiquez 137cm et 351cm. ?? ai-je bien compris les explications? merci

30.06.2020 - 22:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie Christiane, on répète 20 fois au ottal la 1ère partie, donc on aura 7 x 20 = 140 cm et 18x20= 360 cm. Les mesures de 7et 18 cm étant arrondies, vous devez avoir à la fin 137 et 351 cm environ si votre tension est juste en hauteur. Bon tricot!

01.07.2020 kl. 08:16

country flag Janet wrote:

After cast on for armhole, skip 41 ridges...will the 150st pick up be at the top of the garment. The garment diagram looks like the greater amount of stitches will be at the bottom of jacket. Please clarify. Many thanks.

22.06.2020 - 10:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Janet, you start at the seam on mid back (= top of back piece), pick up 41 sts along the first 41 ridges, then cast on 42 sts and skip the next 41 ridges (first armhole), pick up 150 sts along the 151 next ridges (bottom of back piece), cast on 42 sts for2nd sleeve and skip next 41 ridges and pick up 1 st in each of the last 41 ridges = 316 sts - the 150 sts are at the bottom of jacket. Happy knitting!

22.06.2020 kl. 14:20

country flag Janet wrote:

Please confirm where I should start to pick up stitches for the inner circle. Thanks

21.06.2020 - 20:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Janet, you can start to pick up sts at the seam on mid back. Happy knitting!

22.06.2020 kl. 08:37

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