DROPS / 167 / 19

Summer Bliss Vest by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS vest with A-shape, lace pattern and ties in ”Belle”. Size S-XXXL.

Tags: lace, vests,
DROPS design: Pattern no vs-019
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450-500 g color no 03, light beige

DROPS Hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 - or size needed to get 16 dc x 8 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), or 1 repetition of A.2 = width 5 cm / 2''. NOTE: 1 ch-space = 1 dc + 2 ch should measure 1½ cm / ½'' in width - make sure that ch are not worked too tight.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 3.15 $ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 3.15 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.05$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
On every dc row replace first dc with 4 ch.
Replace first tr on every tr row with 5 ch.
Replace first dtr on every dtr row with 6 ch.
Beg every sc row with 1 ch. Ch does not replace first sc.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working the next 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

DECREASE TIP CH-SPACES:
Dec 1 ch-space at beg of row as follows seen from RS: Work ch 2, skip the first ch-space, work 1 dc around next ch-space. On next row skip the last ch-space seen from WS (= first ch-space seen from RS).

Dec 1 ch-space at end of row as follows seen from RS: Work until 1 ch-space remains, ch 2, skip the last ch-space, work 1 st in each of the remaining sts. On next row skip the first ch-space, work ch 2, and 1 dc around next ch-space seen from WS (= last ch-space seen from RS).
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VEST:
Worked back and forth, bottom up. Then divide piece at the armholes and work front and back piece separately. Work an edge at the bottom of with mesh pattern at the end.

Work 197-206-225-244-272-290 loose ch (includes 4 ch to turn with) on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with Belle. Turn and work as follows: Work 1 dc in 5th ch from hook, then work 1 dc in each of the next 3-5-3-1-1-5 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 26-27-30-33-37-39 more times = 166-174-190-206-230-246 dc and 4 ch to turn with - READ CROCHET INFO. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Continue back and forth with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 5-5-6-6-7-7 cm / 2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/4''-2 3/4''. Now work pattern from 2nd row in diagram from RS as follows: Work A.1 (= 8 dc), then work A.2 (= 8 dc) 19-20-22-24-27-29 times in width, A.3 (= 7 dc). On last row in diagram A.1 to A.3 dec 32 dc evenly in all sizes - READ DECREASE TIP = 135-143-159-175-199-215 dc. Continue with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 25-25-26-26-27-27 cm / 9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-10½"-10"½ vertically. Then work pattern from 2nd row in A.1, A.2 and A.3 as before (but now work 15-16-18-20-23-25 repetitions of A.2 in width). Finish before the last 2 rows in diagram A.1 to A.3. Now work 1 row with 1 dc in every dc and adjust no of sts to 136-140-161-173-197-210 dc. Cut the yarn. Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Now divide the piece into 2 front pieces and one back piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work first row as follows: A.4 over the first 12 dc, then work A.5 over the next 15-15-21-24-30-33 dc (= 5-5-7-8-10-11 repetitions in width), A.6 over the next 6 dc = 9-9-11-12-14-15 ch-spaces on first row. Now work as explained in the different sizes below:

SIZE S and M:
Continue back and forth until 4th row in A.4 has been worked vertically. NOTE: Repeat 2nd and 3rd row in A.5 and A.6 vertically. 2 ch-spaces have been dec for neck mid front in both sizes.
Then repeat 3rd and 4th row in diagram A.4 3-3 more times vertically = 5-5 ch-spaces dec in total for neck mid front and 4-4 ch-spaces (with 2 ch) remain for shoulder. Piece measures approx. 13-13 cm / 5"-5".

SIZE L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Continue back and forth with ch-spaces, AT THE SAME TIME on next row dec ch-spaces for neck towards mid front and dec ch-spaces for armhole as follows:

DECREASE ARMHOLE:
On next row dec 1 ch-space for armhole – READ DECREASE TIP CH-SPACES. Repeat dec 0-1-2-2) more times = 1-2-3-3 ch-spaces dec in total for armhole.

DECREASE NECK:
When 4th row in A.4 has been worked, 2 ch-spaces have been dec in size L, XL, XXL and XXXL. Then repeat dec for neck (i.e. 3rd and 4th row in A.4) 3-3-3-4 more times = 6-6-6-7 ch-spaces dec in total for neck.

ALL SIZES:
Continue with ch-spaces as before but now work 5th and 6th row in A.4 towards the neck until piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''. Turn and work 16-16-16-16-19-19 dc evenly over shoulder. Fasten off. Piece measures approx. 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''.

BACK PIECE:
Beg at armhole on right front piece and skip 4-6-6-6-6-8 dc for armhole. Work A.7 (= 8 dc), A.5 (= 3 dc) 16-16-19-21-25-26 times in width, work A.6 (= 6 dc) = 19-19-22-24-28-29 ch-spaces on first row. Continue as explained in the different sizes below:

SIZE S and M:
Continue back and forth with pattern as shown on 2nd and 3rd row in A.5 to A.7 until piece measures 14-15 cm / 5½"-6" – adjust so that next row is worked as 3rd row.

SIZE L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Continue back and forth with pattern as shown on 2nd and 3rd row in A.5 to A.7, AT THE SAME TIME on next row bind off for armholes in each side inside 3 sts - READ DECREASE TIP CH-SPACES. NOTE: Work 3 tr instead of 3 dc in each side on the rows with dec (this is done to avoid tight edges). Repeat dec 0-1-2-2 more times (= 1-2-3-3 dec in total in each side) = 20-20-22-23 ch-spaces remain. Then continue with ch-spaces as shown on 2nd and 3rd row in diagram A.5 to A.7 until piece measures 16-17-18-19 cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7½" – adjust so that next row is worked as 3rd row.

Then continue as explained below in all sizes:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc and 4-4-4-4-5-5 whole ch-spaces (i.e. ch-spaces with 2 ch), work 1 dc in next dc, then work 24-24-26-26-26-28 dc evenly over the next 10-10-11-11-11-12 ch-spaces from previous row, work 1 dc in next dc, and 1 dc around next ch-space, continue with 4-4-4-4-5-5 whole ch-spaces (i.e. ch-spaces with 2 ch) and 1 dc in each of the outermost 3 dc. There are now 26-26-28-28-28-30 dc consecutively in the middle of back piece.
Then finish each shoulder separately. Turn, work 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, then work as before over the 4-4-4-4-5-5 ch-spaces, work 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc of the 26-26-28-28-28-30 dc. Turn and work 16-16-16-16-19-19 dc evenly over shoulder. Fasten off.
Work the other shoulder the same way but reversed. Beg at the armhole, and work 1 dc in each of the outermost 3 dc, then work ch-spaces as before over the 4-4-4-4-5-5 ch-spaces, and 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc. Turn and work 16-16-16-16-19-19 dc evenly over shoulder. Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Beg at armhole on back piece and skip 4-6-6-6-6-7 dc for armhole. Work A.7 (= 8 dc), A.5 (= 3 dc) 4-4-6-7-9-10 times in width, finish with A.8 (= 13 dc). Continue like this back and forth as on right front piece but reversed. Adjust according to right front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams tog. Sew one and one stitch neatly tog and make sure to avoid a tight seam. Fasten off.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM:
Now work an edge at the bottom of vest as follows:
ROW 1: Fasten yarn with 1 sc and 3 ch in the first ch worked at beg of piece, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch (= band), then work * ch 2, skip approx. 1½ cm / ½'', work 1 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* along entire edge until approx. 1½ cm / ½'' remain before the last 4 ch on row, work 2 ch and finish with 1 dc in each of the last 4 ch. There are now approx. 66-69-76-83-93-99 ch-spaces and 4 dc for band in each side - remember crochet info.
ROW 2: Work 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, work ch 1, 1 dc around next ch-space, * ch 2, 1 dc around next ch-space * in every ch-space on row, and finish with 1 ch and 1 dc in each of the 4 dc for band.
ROW 3: Work 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, work ch 2, skip 1 ch and 1 dc, * 1 dc around next ch-space, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch-space remains with ch 2, work 1 dc around this ch-space, ch 2, and finish with 1 dc in each of the 4 dc for band.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd row until piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'' in total (measured from shoulder) or to desired length. Fasten off.

TIES WITH TASSEL:
Cut 2 lengths of yarn of 90 cm / 35½''. Twine them until the resist. Thread one end through last dc-row worked before piece was divided for front pieces and back piece and place tie double so that it twines again. Tie a knot in the loose end. Repeat in the other side.
Then make a tassel in the end of each of the ties: Cut 14 strands of 24 cm / 9½'', thread them through one end on one of the ties and distribute the ends so that they are even. Wind a strand several times around the tassel approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' from the top, to get a nice top and fasten the strand.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 03.03.2016
Correction in chart A.1 and A.2, row 4: 1 sc in st (not: 1 sc around st).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 ch
= 4 ch
= 1 sc around st
= 1 sc in st
= 1 dc in st
= 1 dc around ch/ch-space
= 1 tr in st
= 1 dtr
= Work 2 dtr into 1 dc as follows: Work 1 dtr but wait with last pull through = 2 sts on hook. Work 1 dtr more in same st but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.
= this row is explained in pattern/ work from second row (When working RIGHT FRONT PIECE going into A.4-A.5 you need to start from second row to get the ch-spaces)
= work in this st
= crochet direction



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 167-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (70)

Ingunn Fjæreide 12.11.2020 - 15:38:

Jeg har begynt på vesten og heklet mønster diag A.1 til A.3. Vesten måler nå 18 cm. På bildet ser det ut som jeg skal hekle hele A.1 til A.3 to ganger. Stemmer det?

DROPS Design 18.11.2020 kl. 10:39:

Hei Ingunn, Ja, det er riktig. God fornøyelse!

Sharin 05.09.2020 - 13:43:

Ik haak dit vest maat S. Graag advies zodat ik goed verder kan met dit vest. Patroon vest wordt gehaakt vanaf links-voor naar rechts-voor. Moet je na afloop nog een bies eraan haken? Ik neem aan dat vest linksvoor en rechtsvoor gelijk zijn? Ik begrijp dan niet dat je bij het begin ‘haak 1 stk in 5e losse vanaf de haak’ Op het eind van de toer heb ik dan 6 stokjes. Of wordt dat vanaf 2e toer weer gelijk getrokken door met 4 losse te beginnen?

DROPS Design 11.09.2020 kl. 13:28:

Dag Sharin,

Nee je haakt geen bies meer langs de voorpanden, alleen langs de onderkant. De linker en rechter voorpanden zijn gelijk; dit komt inderdaad vanzelf goed op de volende toer(en) (Je hebt langs de voorbiezen steeds 4 dubbele stokjes naast elkaar.

Mathilde 21.08.2020 - 09:28:

Hi. Im so confused. Right front piece. On next row dec 1 ch-space for armhole . Repeat dec 0-1-2-2) more times = 1-2-3-3 ch-spaces dec in total for armhole. Does it mean that i have to dec 3 times in one row?

DROPS Design 21.08.2020 kl. 10:14:

Dear Mathilde, the decreases for armholes will be worked over 3 rows (next to last and last size), ie you decrease as explained under DECRASE TIP CH-SPACES a total of 3 times = 1 ch-space decrease on each row a total of 3 times = 3 ch-spaces decreased. Happy crocheting!

Kathy E 13.08.2020 - 21:41:

Hej Jag virkar denna i, stl L nu ska jag börja med höger framst. Har totalt 161 st. A4 ska vara 12 m sen ska jag virka A5 21*7 vilket blir 147 m sen står det att jag ska virka A6 på de sista 6 m men det blir mer än de 161 m jag har. Det blir 165 m. Vad jag jag för fel?

DROPS Design 14.08.2020 kl. 08:29:

Hej Kathy. Arbetet delas nu i 2 framstycken och ett bakstycke. 39 stolpar blir höger framstycke. Du virkar nu rad 2 av diagrammen (rad 1 är redan virkat/förklarat i mönster): A4 över de första 12 stolparna, A.5 över de nästa 21 stolparna (dvs 3 stolpar x 7 rapporter A.5), A.6 över de nästa 6 stolparna. När detta är gjort ska du ha 11 lm-bågar på första varvet av framstycket. Lycka till!

Marie Palmhag 16.06.2020 - 21:01:

Hej! Jag tragglade med det här mönstret och förstod ingenting tills jag hittade videon på hur man virkar diagram A1-A3. Nu ska jag börja på höger framstycke st S och förstår ingenting. Snälla, gör en video på det?

DROPS Design 17.06.2020 kl. 13:20:

Hej Marie. Vi skriver upp det på listan över önskemål på videor. Har du sett denna lektion om hur man läser ett virkdiagram? Den kan nog vara till hjälp. Mvh DROPS Design

Barbara 20.04.2020 - 12:59:

Hi, I’m wondering if in A1-A3 row 3 all tr should be replaced by dtr because of the symmetry, so it would be similar to row 8 ? Thanks!

DROPS Design 20.04.2020 kl. 13:56:

Dear Barbara, on row 3 you work treble (US-English) and on row 8 double trebles (US-English) just as shown in the video. Happy crocheting!

Ilona 11.04.2020 - 14:52:

Ik ben begonnen met met large met de Belle wol en haaknaald 4,5 zoals aangegeven. Maar de afmeting wordt dan met xxxl. Dus uitgehaald en de small maat genomen. Ik denk dat ik waarschijnlijk los haak. Zelfs bij de small maat wordt de breedte aan de onderkant 66 cm. Deze afmeting hoort bij maat XL . Aan het begin stuk onderaan ben ik al bijna één bol kwijt. Red ik het dan wel met 8 bollen?

DROPS Design 13.04.2020 kl. 10:18:

Dag Ilona,

Het beste is om even een proeflapje te maken en dan kijken of je de juiste stekenverhouding hebt. Pas de haaknaald aan totdat je de stekenverhouding hebt zoals aangegeven in het patroon. Op die manier kun je gewoon het patroon in jouw maat volgen.

Dinie Bouman 13.08.2019 - 15:23:

Volgens mij klopt er nog iets niet in het patroon, er staat dat je moet minderen voor de armsgaten bij het rechtervoorpand, als je dat doet volgens de beschrijving ziet het er raar uit eerst minderen voor de hals en dan pas de armsgaten, volgens mij moet je alleen minderen voor de hals. en als je die minderingen hebt gehad, dan haken volgens patroon tot je de juiste hoogte hebt gehad.

Tina Comeaux 05.08.2019 - 22:55:

This is a comment because I am too confused to ask a question! This is a beautiful vest! I would love to make this for my beautiful niece, but it isn't going to happen! I have been crocheting by pattern for 35 + years and I have yet to find a pattern I can't figure out, I am totally defeated on this pattern. If someone else can figure it out I am so happy for them. I am not the one.

DROPS Design 08.08.2019 kl. 10:33:

Dear Mrs Comeaux, The DROPS patterns are knitted and crocheted by thousands and thousands of people  around the world. We understand however that in certain countries, with different knitting/crochet traditions than Scandinavia, our patterns might be written in a way that differs from what some are used to. But of course we want everyone to understand our patterns, so that’s why we have created an extensive library of tutorial videos as well as step by step lessons that explain how to follow the techniques we use and how to read the diagrams in our patterns. Give them a try!

Marianne 06.06.2019 - 09:43:

Goedemorgen, Ik begrijp het begin van het patroon niet. Op de foto lijkt het heel anders dan de beschrijving doet vermoeden. Kunt u het aan me uitleggen? Vriendelijke groet, Marianne

DROPS Design 06.06.2019 kl. 21:05:

Dag Marianne,

Het vest heeft inderdaad onderaan een netpatroon, terwijl je met stokjes begint te haken. Dit netpatroon haak je aan het einde onderaan het vest, zoals beschreven bij RAND LANGS DE ONDERKANT.

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