DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 3.05 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.35$. Read more.

Summer Bliss

Crochet DROPS tunic with A-shape and lace pattern in ”Belle”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 167-18
DROPS design: Pattern no vs-020
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450-500 g color no 03, light beige

DROPS Hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 - or size needed to get 16 dc x 8 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), or 1 repetition of A.2 = width 5 cm / 2''. NOTE: 1 ch-space = 1 dc + 2 ch should measure 1½ cm / ½'' in width - make sure that ch are not worked too tight.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 3.05 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.35$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
On every dc round/row replace first dc with 4 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round.


PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working the next 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

DECREASE TIP CH-SPACES:
Dec 1 ch-space at beg of row as follows seen from RS: Work ch 2, skip the first ch-space, work 1 dc around next ch-space. On next row skip the last ch-space seen from WS (= first ch-space seen from RS).

Dec 1 ch-space at end of row as follows seen from RS: Work until 1 ch-space remains, ch 2, skip the last ch-space, work 1 st in each of the remaining sts. On next row skip the first ch-space, work ch 2, and 1 dc around next ch-space seen from WS (= last ch-space seen from RS).
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TUNIC:
Worked in the round, bottom up, then divide the piece into front piece and back piece and work back and forth up to shoulder. Work an edge at the bottom of with mesh pattern at the end. Beg of round = in the right side.

Work 195-205-223-242-270-289 loose ch on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with Belle and form a ring with 1 sl st. Work 4 ch – see CROCHET INFO! Then work as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 6-2-6-4-4-2 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 26-28-30-33-37-40 more times = 168-176-192-208-232-248 dc + 4 ch at beg of round. Continue in the round with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 5-5-6-6-7-7 cm / 2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/4''-2 3/4''. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Now work pattern from 2nd round in diagram A.1 (= 8 dc) 21-22-24-26-29-31 times on round. NOTE: A.2 shows how round beg and ends. On last row in diagram dec 32 dc evenly in all sizes - READ DECREASE TIP = 136-144-160-176-200-216 dc + 4 ch at beg of round. Continue with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 25-25-26-26-27-27 cm / 9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-10½"-10½" vertically. Then work A.1 as before from 2nd round in diagram but now work 17-18-20-22-25-27 repetitions on round. NOTE: A.2 shows how round beg and ends. Finish before the last 2 rows in diagram A.1. Now work 1 row with 1 dc in every dc and adjust no of sts to 132-136-154-166-190-198 dc. Cut the yarn. Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Now divide piece in 2 for front and back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Skip 4-6-6-6-6-7 dc for armhole, work A.3 (= 8 dc), A.4 (= 3 dc) 16-16-19-21-25-26 times in width, work A.5 (= 6 dc) = 19-19-22-24-28-29 ch-spaces on first row. Continue as explained in the different sizes below:

SIZE S and M:
Continue back and forth with pattern as shown on 2nd and 3rd row in A.3 to A.5 until piece measures 14-15 cm / 5½"-6'' – adjust so that next row is worked as 3rd row.

SIZE L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Continue back and forth with pattern as shown on 2nd and 3rd row in A.3 to A.5, AT THE SAME TIME on next row bind off for armhole in each side inside 3 sts - READ DECREASE TIP CH-SPACES. NOTE: Work 3 tr instead of 3 dc in each side on the rows with dec (this is done to avoid tight edges). Repeat dec 0-1-2-2 more times (= 1-2-3-3 dec in total in each side) = 20-20-22-23 ch-spaces remain. Then continue with ch-spaces as shown on 2nd and 3rd row in diagram A.3 to A.5 until piece measures 16-17-18-19 cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7½" – adjust so that next row is worked as 3rd row.

Then continue as explained below in all sizes:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc and 4-4-4-4-5-5 whole ch-spaces (i.e. ch-spaces with 2 ch), work 1 dc in next dc, then work 24-24-26-26-26-28 dc evenly over the next 10-10-11-11-11-12 ch-spaces from previous row, work 1 dc in next dc, and 1 dc around next ch-space, continue with 4-4-4-4-5-5 whole ch-spaces (i.e. ch-spaces with 2 ch) and 1 dc in each of the outermost 3 dc. There are now 26-26-28-28-28-30 dc consecutively in the middle of back piece.
Then finish each shoulder separately. Turn and work as before over the first 4-4-4-4-5-5 ch-spaces, work 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc of the 26-26-28-28-28-30 dc. Turn and work 16-16-16-16-19-19 dc evenly on shoulder. Fasten off.
Work the other shoulder the same way but reversed. Beg at the armhole, and work 1 dc in each of the outermost 3 dc, then work ch-spaces as before over the 4-4-4-4-5-5 ch-spaces, and 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc. Turn and work 16-16-16-16-19-19 dc evenly over shoulder. Fasten off.

FRONT PIECE:
Skip 4-6-6-6-6-7 dc for armhole. Work A.3 (= 8 dc), A.4 (= 3 dc) 16-16-19-21-25-26 times in width, work A.5 = 19-19-22-24-28-29 ch-spaces on first row and 4-6-6-6-6-7 dc remain until beg on back piece. Continue as explained in the different sizes below:

SIZE S and M:
Continue back and forth with 2nd and 3rd row in A.3 to A.5 until 5 rows have been worked in both sizes. Now work as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc and 4-4 whole ch-spaces (i.e. ch-spaces with 2 ch), work 1 dc in next dc, then work 24-24 dc evenly over the next 10-10 ch-spaces, work 1 dc in next dc, and 1 dc around next ch-space, continue with 4-4 whole ch-spaces (i.e. ch-spaces with 2 ch) and 1 dc in each of the outermost 3 dc = 26-26 dc for neck in the middle of front piece.

SIZE L, XL, XXL, XXXL:
Continue back and forth with 2nd and 3rd row in A.3 to A.5, AT THE SAME TIME on next row bind off for armhole in each side as on back piece and when 5 rows with ch-spaces have been worked, work dc for neck in the middle of front piece as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc and 4-4-5-5 whole ch-spaces (i.e. ch-spaces with 2 ch), work 1 dc in next dc, then work 26-26-26-28 dc evenly over the next 11-11-11-12 ch-spaces from previous row, work 1 dc in next dc, and 1 dc around next ch-space, continue with 4-4-5-5 whole ch-spaces (i.e. ch-spaces with 2 ch) and 1 dc in each of the outermost 3 dc = 28-28-28-30 dc for neck in the middle of front piece.

Now continue as explained below in all sizes:
Then finish each shoulder separately. Turn and work ch-spaces as before over the first 4-4-4-4-5-5 ch-spaces, work 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc of the 26-26-28-28-28-30 dc. Turn and continue like this with ch-spaces and 3 dc in each side until piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''. Turn and work 16-16-16-16-19-19 dc evenly over shoulder. Fasten off.
Work the other shoulder the same way but reversed. I.e. beg at the armhole.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams tog. Sew one and one stitch neatly tog and make sure to avoid a tight seam. Fasten off.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM:
Now work an edge at the bottom of tunic as follows:
ROUND 1: Fasten yarn with 1 sc and 3 ch at beg of round. * ch 2, skip approx. 1½ cm / ½'', 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = approx. 71-73-80-87-97-104 ch-spaces on round.
ROUND 2: Work sl sts until first ch-space. Then work as follows: work ch 3, * ch 2, 1 dc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* around the entire round but finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round. Repeat 2nd round until piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'' in total (measured from shoulder) or to desired length. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 04.03.2016
Correction.
Chart A.1.

Changes in the 4th round and 9th round. It should be: 1 sc in sts, not 1 sc around sts.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 4 ch
symbols = 1 sc around st
symbols = 1 sc in st
symbols = 1 dc in st
symbols = 1 dc around ch/ch-space
symbols = 1 dtr
symbols = Work 2 dtr into 1 dc as follows: Work 1 dtr but wait with last pull through = 2 sts on hook. Work 1 dtr more in same st but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.
symbols = this row is explained in pattern
symbols = work in this st
symbols = beg round with ch 4, and finish round 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round
symbols = beg round with ch 5, and finish round with 1 sl st in 5th ch at beg of round
symbols = beg round with ch 1, and finish round 1 sl st in 1st ch on round
symbols = crochet direction
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Inge Umans wrote:

In afwachting van het antwoord op mijn eerdere vraag begin ik vast aan het voorpand. Daar moet ik wel aan weerszijden 6 steken overslaan voor de armsgaten. Dit bekent toch dat het ene armsgaten uit 12 en de andere uit 6 steken bestaat? Kunt u dit uitleggen?

03.06.2023 - 16:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Inge,

Bij het voorpand staat dat je 4-6-6-6-6-7 steken over slaat voor het armsgat en dat je aan het eind ook weer 4-6-6-6-6-7 steken over houdt aan het begin van het achterpand.

04.06.2023 - 10:35

country flag Inge Umans wrote:

Goedenavond, Ik heb een probleem met het achterpand. Ik heb een soort net gehaakt en begrijp niet hoe ik verder moet bij de schouders: Wat zijn: 4 hele l-lussen (dus l-lussen met 2 l), Hoe kom ik vanaf de 3 buitenste stokjes in het midden van het rugpand uit? Bedankt, Inge

30.05.2023 - 19:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Inge,

Onder hele lossenlussen worden lussen met 2 lossen verstaan. Je kunt de draad afknippen en opnieuw beginnen op de volgende toer door aan te hechten. Een andere manier is halve vasten te haken over de eerste steken tot je bij de steek bent waar je moet beginnen.

04.06.2023 - 10:42

country flag Gina wrote:

Jag får inte början och slutet på varven i diagram 1att stämma med resten av varvet, det ser inte likadant ut. Tex varv3 , när jag har virkat varvet klart så tänker jag att de första 5 lm ska bilda en del av den sista blomman men det gör det ju inte utan för mig blir det som så att från den sista blomman är det ett mellanrum där två stolpar från föregående varv är överhoppade innan de fem första lm som varvet började med bildar en egen enhet eller hur jag ska uttrycka mig?

16.05.2023 - 07:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gina, du vil få rækker med luftmasker i højden i den ene side, for at komme op på næste varv :)

17.05.2023 - 08:46

country flag Gina wrote:

Redan på varv 2 i diagram A1 krånglar det till sig. Ska inte början och slutet på varven smälta in i mönstret på varvet? Alltså att det slutar med en luftmaska innan smygmaskan i fjärde luftmaskan? Enligt diagrammet slutar jag med en stolpe och sedan smygmaskan. En annan fråga är om det går att översätta alla frågor och kommentarer som kommit in på mönstret?

14.05.2023 - 23:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gina, du skal afslutte varvet for at kunne hoppe op til næste varv, se videoen som er lavet til denne tunika nederst i opskriften. Nej du kan ikke oversætte på vores side, i så fald må du copy/paste ind i et oversættelsesprogram :)

17.05.2023 - 07:59

country flag Anne Louise Svendsen wrote:

Jeg er i tvivl om, hvor mange masker jeg skal have. For størrelse S står der når ringen er dannet og man har sprunget nogle af luftmaskerne over, at der skal være 168+4lm i starten af omg. Vil det sige at der skal være 168 masker? Eller 168 masker samt en ekstra maske fra de 4lm?

05.04.2023 - 09:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne Louise, diagrammet hækles over 168 masker, så lm er til at komme op på næste række :)

13.04.2023 - 12:17

country flag Mariann Arntsen wrote:

Hei. Jeg ønsker å hekle vs-020. Men beklager å måtte si det men oppskriften er helt gresk for meg og jeg ser på meg selv som en habil hekler. Hvordan leser jeg tallene? Skal hekle den i xxl. Hvordan leser jeg meg frem til hvor mange masker jeg skal legge opp, hvordan hekler jeg hver enkelt rad?

31.08.2022 - 21:39

country flag Christiane Althoff wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops Team. Ich habe ein Problem mit den Abnahme rückenteil in Größe L. Es sind 22 Luftmaschenbögen, es soll beidseits 3 x abgenommen werden (Armausschnitt) trotzdem sollen es anm Ende der Abnahme weiterhin 22 Luftmaschenbögen sein. Das will mir nicht klar werden. VG Christiane Althoff

12.07.2022 - 06:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Althoff, also wenn alle Abnahmen gehäkelt sind, haben Sie noch nur 20 Luftmaschenbogen übrig: u>Größe L, XL, XXL und XXXL: Weiter im Muster wie in der 2. und 3. R von A.3 bis A.5 gezeigt häkeln, GLEICHZEITIG in der nächsten R beidseitig für die Armausschnitte neben 3 M abnehmen - .../... Diese Abnahmen noch weitere 0-1-2-2 x wdh (= insgesamt 1-2-3-3 Abnahmen beidseitig) = 20-20-22-23 Lm-Bögen übrig. : Sie nehmen nur 1 Mal ab in L = erste Größe in diesem Absatz = 20 Lm-Bögen übrig. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

12.07.2022 - 08:58

country flag Shelley wrote:

I’m having a great deal of difficulty parsing the pattern instructions after the first row of the back. Which stitches are we supposed to decrease? The three trebles? 3 spaces? Is it 3 on each side or just 3 at the beginning of each row? The wording in English is quite unclear to me (I imagine that when I get it, I’ll get it)

02.07.2022 - 23:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Shelley, you will decrease (size L - XXXL only) as explained under DECREASE TIP CH-SPACES:, you will decrease 1-ch-space a total of 1-2-3-3 times, at the same time, crochet 3 double treble crochets instead 3 treble crochets on each side when decreasing. Happy crocheting!

04.07.2022 - 08:07

country flag Linda wrote:

Im starting the back and have read your answers to other questions about row 1 of the back, but i still dont understand. I dont see any chain spaces (A3, A4, A5) on the 1st row, its all dc across (68 sts). I see chain spaces in 2nd row. Am i seeing this right? Someone else had asked the same question and your answer didnt make any sense to me. Am i to start with the 2nd row or the 1st? And what is the "star"? it say it is explained in pattern but i didnt see it, i guess

09.09.2021 - 10:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Linda, the star in A.3-A.4-A.5 shows the previous row, so that you know how to crochet the first row in these diagram. When working the diagrams, just start with A.3 (skipping the number of sts for your size), repeat A.4 and finish with A.5 (leaving unworked the number of sts for your size). Then read 2nd row from wrong side, ie from the left towards the right: A.5, repeat A.4 (read from the left towards the right), A.3. Happy crocheting!

09.09.2021 - 17:12

country flag Silvia wrote:

At the end of the first part of the work I have 136 st’s, therefore, when dividing the piece in two, I have 68 st’s left for the back and 68 for the front. If I add up the st’s from graphs: A3(8 st’s)+ A4 (3 st’s 16 times=48 st’s )+A5(6 st’s ) gives me 62 st’s + the 6 st’s without working from the beginning and the other 6 from the end , they make a total of 74 st’s. I am missing 6 st’s. Am I doing the wrong accounts?

21.08.2021 - 18:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Silvia, you are not supposed to skip 6 sts at the end of the row, you have to work the 68 sts (= half of piece as follows): skip 6 sts, work A.3 (= 8 sts), A.5 -(= 8 sts x 16) and A.5 (= 6 sts) - it remains 68 sts at the end the the round, these will be for front piece, where you will start skipping the first 6 sts, this means these 6 sts will be on each side for armholes. Happy crocheting!

23.08.2021 - 07:24