Sunrise Glow by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS tunic with lace pattern, vents in the side and round yoke in ”Paris”. Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no w-584
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
600-650-750-800-900-950 g color no 01, apricot

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - for edge in garter st.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Work until 2 st remains before marker, 1 YO, K 4 (marker is between sts), 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 1.
Dec as follows after marker: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
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YOKE:
Worked top down in the round on circular needle. Cast on 92-104-108-120-126-138 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above and inc 16-16-24-24-30-30 sts evenly on next to last round (= round with K) - READ INCREASE TIP-1 = 108-120-132-144-156-168 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work A.1 (= 12 sts) 9-10-11-12-13-14 times in total in width. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 207-230-253-276-299-322 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 19-19-22-22-24-24 cm / 7½"-7½"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9½"-9½". K 1 round and inc 1-0-1-0-1-0 sts evenly = 208-230-254-276-300-322 sts.

Work next round as follows: K 32-36-41-45-49-53 (= half back piece), slip the next 40-44-46-48-52-56 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new sts under sleeve (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 8 sts), K 64-71-81-90-98-105 (= front piece), slip the next 40-44-46-48-52-56 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new sts under sleeve (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 8 sts), K 32-35-40-45-49-52 = 144-158-178-196-212-226 sts.

BODY:
Now work piece in stockinette st. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', inc 1 st on each side of each marker in the sides (= 4 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP-2, repeat inc every 4-4-3-2½-2-2 cm / 1½"-1½"-1"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4" 9-9-12-14-16-18 more times = 184-198-230-256-280-302 sts. When piece measures 43-45-44-46-46-48 cm / 17"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-18"-18"-19", work front and back piece back and forth, finished separately (i.e. divide the piece at the markers).

BACK PIECE:
= 92-99-115-128-140-151 sts. Work in stockinette st with 4 sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 47-49-48-50-50-52 cm / 18½"-19 1/4"-19"-19 3/4"-19 3/4"-20½" from marker - adjust so that next row is from WS, inc 1-1-0-0-0-0 sts = 93-100-115-128-140-151 sts. Work next row as follows from RS: 4 sts in garter st, work 4-2-4-5-0-0 sts as first st in A.2, repeat A.2 (= 11 sts) until 8-6-8-9-4-4 sts remain (= 7-8-9-10-12-13 times in width), work 4-2-4-5-0-0 sts as last st in A.2, finish with 4 sts in garter st. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work next row as follows from RS: 4 sts in garter st, repeat A.3 (= 3 sts) until 5 sts remain AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-2-2-1-1-2 sts evenly on first row, work first st in A.3, finish with 4 sts in garter st = 93-102-117-129-141-153 sts. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST back and forth - see explanation above! bind off.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as on back piece.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles. Slip the 40-44-46-48-52-56 sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Cast on 8 new sts under sleeve, insert a marker in the middle of these 8 sts = 48-52-54-56-60-64 sts. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in stockinette st. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of marker (= 2 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec when piece measures 10 cm / 4'' = 44-48-50-52-56-60 sts. When piece measures 17 cm / 6 3/4'', switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Work 2 ridges. Bind off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under the sleeve.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, DO NOT K YO twisted on next row, it should make hole
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, K YO twisted on next row, it should not make hole
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 170-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Tina wrote:

Hi, I thought this would make a great dress instead of a tunic, by simply making it longer? Then I compared this pattern with Vanilla Summer (Drops 159 -6) which IS a DRESS, and the length for both pieces are the same! Also the amount of Paris yarn is exactly the same. Why is this one considered a tunic please? On the model it does look like a tunic, but I'm confused because the measurements are the same as the Vanilla dress, which looks like a dress on the model!

07.04.2022 - 16:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tina, the term tunic is sometimes used to describe a short dress. This is why the measurements are similar but they are called differently; in the end both of them are dresses. To work a longer garment, you could simply work straight or work a few increases on the sides if you want it slightly wider at the bottom, before working the bottom edge. Happy knitting!

07.04.2022 kl. 21:15

country flag Magdalena wrote:

Witam nie bardzo wiem jak mam rozumieć pewna część wzoru Chodzi mi dokładnie o dół tylowia Nie wiem jak wyliczyc ,kiedy mam zacząć to rozcięcie Proszę o pomoc

01.04.2022 - 16:30

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Magdaleno, troszkę przeformułowałam to zdania: „Na wys. 43-45-44-46-46-48 cm od markera do mierzenia (tzn. tego umieszczonego na wysokości, gdzie były zdejmowane oczka na rękawy na druty pomocnicze), kończyć tył i przód osobno w tę i z powrotem (tzn. podzielić robótkę w miejscu markerów na bokach, na pęknięcia na dole sukienki)”. Mam nadzieję, że teraz łatwiej będzie zrozumieć. Pozdrawiamy!

04.04.2022 kl. 15:06

country flag Kate Frego wrote:

What are the relevant body measurements for S-M-L-XL in Sunrise Glow 170-14? (Inches please)

28.02.2021 - 01:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kate, you can find the measurements of the finished piece on the schematic drawing at the bottom of the page. Happy Knitting!

28.02.2021 kl. 11:06

country flag Debora wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei fare questa tunica con filato Drops Muskat, più sottile, anzichè il Paris. Vesto una taglia M, avete un suggerimento che mi permetta di adattare il filato più sottile alla spiegazione? Il campione con Muskat è di 21 maglie in 10 cm.Grazie mille

29.04.2019 - 14:13

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Debora, purtroppo non possiamo fornire un aiuto così personalizzato, ma presso il suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia potrà trovare tutta l'assistenza di cui ha bisogno. Buon lavoro!

29.04.2019 kl. 15:00

country flag Lise wrote:

Je suis de taille LARGE. Dans votre tuto des tailles, vous donnez un exemple de taille large, ce qui donne des hanches de 108 cm et poitrine 96. Parfait pour moi. Dans le modèle W-584 ci-dessus la taille large donne 128 cm pour les hanches et 104 cm pour la poitrine ! Je ne comprends pas un tel écart... svp m’éclaIrer, je ne sais plus quelle taille choisir... merci.

03.04.2019 - 15:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lise, la coupe de chaque modèle peut différer en étant plus ou moins près du corps, en taille L on a ici 52 cm x 2 = 104 cm de tour de poitrine, et la base du top (qui mesure 78 cm de hauteur totale) est de 69 cm x 2 = 138 cm. Mesurez un modèle similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme pour trouver la taille idéale. Bon tricot!

03.04.2019 kl. 16:15

country flag Nicola Summers wrote:

With regard to the sleeves and body, instead of casting on 8 stitches to the sleeve and then sewing up the hole between the sleeve and body at the end would it be OK to pick up 8 stitches from the cast off edge on the body piece instead? I\'m fairly new to knitting tops and have always ended up with holes when sewing up seams.

22.11.2018 - 10:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Summers, you can also pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8 sts cast on on body over sleeve instead of casting on new sts. This video is showing how to close the opening under arm (in that case the 8 sts cast on on body and the 8 sts cast on on sleeve). Happy knitting!

22.11.2018 kl. 11:09

country flag Tone Thorsen wrote:

Att Sunrice Glow. Øketips -2 må vel gi m i n d R e masker? Ikke flere som dere forklarer

28.01.2018 - 13:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tone. Nei, øketips-2 gir en forklaring på at det økes med kast 4 ganger pr omgang det skal økes. ØKETIPS-2: Strikk til det gjenstår 2 m før merke, 1 kast (= 1 ØKT MASKE), 4 m rett (merke sitter midt mellom m), 1 kast (=1 ØKT MASKE TIL). På neste omgang strikkes de 4 kastene vridd rett for å unngå hull. God Fornøyelse!

30.01.2018 kl. 10:50

country flag Diana Hart wrote:

I am not quite understanding the hem pattern , does it mean for the small size the first and last 4 stitches are garter stitch then next and next to last 4 are stocking stitch and the stitches in between are A2? If I wanted to do this garment without the split, would I need to adjust stitches to a multiple of 11 and then just work A2 all round? Thank you for your help. Keep the patterns coming they are the best.

30.08.2017 - 13:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hart, that's right, when working then back and forth for vents on sides, you are working with 4 sts in garter st at the beg and at the end of row. If you don't want any vents, you can then adjust the number of sts as you suggest and work A.11 all the round. Happy knitting!

30.08.2017 kl. 14:58

country flag Tammy wrote:

You have very nice patterns i would like to make but they make no scent and hard to understand. Patterns i've made were able to understand, I wish these were understandable.

18.06.2017 - 00:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tammy, you will find some videos adapted to each pattern under tab "Videos" and at the very bottom of the page. Should you have any question please feel free to ask here, for any individual assistance remember your DROPS store will help you, even per mail or telephone. Happy knnitting!

19.06.2017 kl. 09:14

country flag Debbra Smith wrote:

When I print out the patterns it doesn't print out the diagram on the free patterns, like on sunrise glow. I love the designs but I can't try them because of this problem.it happens quite a bit. thank you

10.06.2016 - 16:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Smith, when printing pattern, check that all pages will be print, in this pattern eg, diagrams are on pages 4 and 5, and measurement chart on page 6. Happy knitting!

10.06.2016 kl. 18:21

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