DROPS / 169 / 4

Light's Embrace by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS poncho with lace pattern, worked top down in ”Paris”. Size S-XXXL.

Tags: lace, ponchos, top down,
DROPS design: Pattern no w-614
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
750-850-900 g color no 16, white

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 – or size needed to get 16 dc x 9 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Diagrams A.1a and A.1b show how round beg and ends.

CROCHET INFO:
Beg every dc round with 3 ch (these ch do not replaces first dc). At the end of round work 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
NOTE: When working A.5 beg round with 3 ch. At the end of round work 1 dc in first st worked on round (i.e. st with the 3 ch in), then 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

WORK 2 TR TOG:
Work 1 tr around ch-space below but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), skip 1 sc and work 1 tr around next ch-space but on last pull through, pull yarn through all loops on hook.

WORK 3 TR TOG:
Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 more tr but wait with last pull through (= 3 loops on hook), work 1 more tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all loops on hook.


MESH PATTERN:

ROUND 1: * Start with 1st row of A.5, work the 4 dc in first/next dc with marker, work (1 ch, ship 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc) until 1 dc remains before next marker, work 1 ch, skip next dc *, repeat from *-* 3 times more. There is now 4 repeats of A.5 on round.

ROUND 2: * Work A.5 around first/next ch-space with marker,
then work 1 dc in next dc, 1 ch, 1 dc around first ch-space, (1 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next ch-space) until 1 ch-space remains before next repeat of A.5, work 1 ch, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 3 times more.

ROUND 3: * Work A.5 around first/next ch-space with marker,
then work (1 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc around next ch-space) until next
repeat of A.5, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 3 times more.

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PONCHO:
Worked in the round, top down. First inc mid front, mid back and on each shoulder, then inc only mid front and mid back.

Work 153-163-163 ch on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with Paris and form a ring with 1 sl st. Work 3 ch – see CROCHET INFO! Then work 1 dc in each of the next 3-1-1 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* 24-26-26 more times on round = 128-136-136 dc + 3 ch on round. Now insert 4 markers from beg of round without working: Insert 1 marker in 1st dc on round (= mid back), skip 31-33-33 dc, insert 1 marker in next dc (= shoulder), skip 31-33-33 dc, insert 1 marker in next dc (= mid front), skip 31-33-33 dc, insert 1 marker in next dc (= shoulder), there are now 31-33-33 dc between last marker and beg of round.

Now work MESH PATTERN - see explanation above. When 1st-
3rd round have been worked, repeat 2nd and 3rd round until 6-7- 8
rounds with mesh pattern have been worked - see diagram A.4a
and A.4b to see how to work the whole inc in each side of A.5. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Piece measures approx. 8-9-10 cm / 3"-3½"-4''.

Work next round as follows AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-8-8 dc evenly (= 0-4-4 dc dec on each side of mid back and mid front): *Work (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) around ch-space (= mid back on 1st repetition and mid front on 2nd repetition), then work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc around every ch until next inc dc-group, work 3 dc around ch-space (= shoulder), work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc around every ch until inc dc-group (mid front on 1st repetition and mid back on 2nd repetition)*, repeat from *-* 1 more time.

There are now 117-125-133 dc between ch-space mid front and mid back (= 234-250-266 dc in total on round + 2 ch-space). Cut the yarn. NOTE: Then do not inc on each shoulder but only mid front and mid back on poncho.

Work 1 sl st in 10th st from ch-space mid back and work pattern as follows: Work A.1a (shows how round beg and end, does not replace first st), A.2a (= 8 dc) 13-14-15 times in width, A.3a (= inc mid front), continue with A.2a 14-15-16 times in width, A.3a (= inc mid back) and A.2a 1 time in all sizes. On 4th round in A.3a there are 133-141-149 dc between ch-space mid front and mid back. Continue with pattern as before (there is now room for 16-17-18 repetitions A.2a on each side of A.3a). On 10th round inc 8 dc evenly on each side of A.3a (= 16 dc in total on round) = 163-171-179 dc on each side of ch-space mid front and mid back. Continue with pattern as before, but now work A.1b over A.1a, A.2b over A.2a and A.3b over A.3a (there is now room for 19-20-21 repetitions A.2 on each side of A.3). On 4th round inc 3 dc evenly between every repetitions of A.3 (i.e. 6 dc in total on round) = 169-177-185 dc between each ch-space mid front and mid back. Continue pattern (there is now room for 21-22-23 repetitions A.2 on each side of A.3). When entire diagram has been worked vertically, piece measures 36-37-38 cm / 14 1/4"-14½"-15". Cut the yarn.

Now work mesh pattern as at beg of piece. Beg in ch-space mid back, and work mesh pattern from 3rd round in mesh pattern. Repeat 2nd and 3rd round until 6-8-10 rounds in total have been worked (includes last round in A.2 and A.3).
Work next round as follows: * Work (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) around ch-space (= mid back), then work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc around every ch until next rep of A.5 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 193-209-225 dc between ch-space mid front and mid back. Cut the yarn.

Now work pattern A.1a, A.2a and A.3a as follows:
Work 1 sl st in 12th dc from ch-space mid back and work pattern as follows: Work A.1a (shows how round beg and end, does not replace first st), A.2a until 2 dc remain before ch-space mid front, A.3a (= inc mid front), continue with A.2a until 2 dc remain before ch-space mid back, A.3a (= inc mid back) and A.2a 1 time in all sizes. When 4th row has been worked vertically, poncho measures 49-52-54 cm / 19 1/4"-20½"-21 1/4". Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.03.2016
Chart A.2a.
Changes in the 8th round. It should be: 1 sc in sts, not 1 sc around sts.
Updated online: 28.10.2016
Correction: New diagrams A.4a, A.4b and A.5. Pattern has been updated according to these. Also a correction in A.2a.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 ch
= 1 sc around st
= 1 sc in st
= 1 sc around ch-space, 3 ch
= 1 dc in st
= 1 dc around ch/ch-space
= 1 tr around st
= Work 2 dtr into 1 dtr as follows: Work 1 dtr but wait with last pull through = 2 sts on hook. Work 1 dtr more in same st but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
= WORK 3 TR TOG - see explanation in pattern
= WORK 2 TR TOG - see explanation in pattern
= Work picot as follows: Work ch 2, 1 hdc in last dc worked
= work in this st
= beg round with ch 4, and finish round 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round
= beg round with ch 2, and finish round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch at beg of round
= beg round with ch 6, and finish round 1 sl st in 6th ch at beg of round
= this round is explained in pattern





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 169-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (175)

Jessalyn Caple 06.01.2020 - 23:24:

I am not sure how I am supposed to do row 6 of A2. I am not sure how the crocheting works here as well as how they relate to the previous row. Could you please explain how to do this?

DROPS Design 07.01.2020 kl. 08:57:

Dear Mrs Caple, this video shows how to crocheet A.2a and A.3a, does it apply to the part of diagram you are looking for? Happy crocheting!

Trisha 01.01.2020 - 17:12:

Please let me know if there is a video tutorial for this pretty white drop poncho. I not too good on written patterns. Appreciate it alot.

DROPS Design 01.01.2020 kl. 21:54:

Dear Trisha, íou can find the videos that can help you with this pattern by clicking on the small icons below the patterns. Also there is a lesson on how to read the diagrams here. Happy Crafting!

Dolly 09.10.2019 - 01:24:

Don’t have row numbers for each row don’t no how many rows in pattern

DROPS Design 09.10.2019 kl. 09:06:

Dear Dolly, work the diagrams as explained in the written pattern and as shown in diagrams, ie the row with the star in A.1a, A.1b, A.2a, A.2b has already been worked, start on next row = row 1. Happy crocheting!

Natalie David 11.09.2019 - 11:31:

Good day to you! i would just like to ask how you will start the A.2a diagram? this is quite confusing to me

DROPS Design 11.09.2019 kl. 11:49:

Dear Mrs David, start A.2a on the bottom corner on the right side and read from the right towards the left on every round, starting on the row after the one with a star (this one shows the sts from previous round). read more about crochet diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

Louise Essex 09.09.2019 - 20:20:

Hi, I am stuck on 4th row ofA3b. I have 176, not 169, trebles between chain spaces without even adding the 3 trebles. The previous rounds had correct number of stitches and or repetitions I. E. 19reps. How have I got 8 extra stitches on each side?

DROPS Design 10.09.2019 kl. 09:18:

Dear Mrs Essex, the number of stitches doesn't include the dc in A.3b, ie 5 sts on each side of A.3 + 3 stitches increased along each side = 8 sts = 2 more repeats of A.2b on each side of tips. Happy crocheting!

Louise 23.08.2019 - 12:34:

I have done A. 5 TWICE and I only have 99 stitches when the pattern says 117. First time using diagram so not sue what A4a and b are showing.... Are they showing an increase on each row before and after each the next A5??

DROPS Design 23.08.2019 kl. 14:57:

Dear Louise, A.4 a shows how to work the new stitches worked in A.5 on previous round (before A.5) and A.4b shows how to work the new stitches worked in A.5 on previous round (after A.5). read more about diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

Iwona 08.08.2019 - 20:07:

Z ilu oczek jest zrobiona gora tego ponto azurowe prosze mi napisac

DROPS Design 08.08.2019 kl. 20:50:

Witaj Iwono! Na początku na szydełku nr 4,5 należy wykonać 153-163-163 oł (w zależności od rozmiaru: odpowiednio S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL). Pozdrawiamy!

Gabi 22.07.2019 - 09:55:

I’ve just started row 8 of A.2b (5 DCs, 4Chs). It seems to be making the whole thing scrunch up as if there aren’t enough stitches in each repetition. Am I following the pattern correctly?

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 09:12:

Dear Gabi, make sure you have the correct number of A.2b in width, and make also sure that the chain stitches have the right size to avoid them to either tighten or enlarge piece. Happy crocheting!

CJ 18.07.2019 - 00:33:

Im not sure this patten is written all too well. After mesh is done 4 chain and then 8 dc in same stitch then back to the 4th chain for a sl st - so is this basically a massive popcorn stitch? The pattern also doesn’t state for me to sl st into the next. Technically. According to the pattern I do another ch4 on top of the (popcorn) stitch I just made.

DROPS Design 18.07.2019 kl. 11:19:

Dear CJ, after mesh pattern is done you work the next round decreasing 8 dc evenly - read here how to decrease stitches evenly. Happy crocheting!

CJ 17.07.2019 - 13:48:

Why is this both a written pattern and graph. Please can you convert the graph part to written?

DROPS Design 17.07.2019 kl. 15:24:

Dear CJ, we cannot convert the diagrams into written pattern, but you will find here how to read crochet diagrams, it can be a good idea to cut them and put them together. Happy crocheting!

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