DROPS / 169 / 4

Light's Embrace by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS poncho with lace pattern, worked top down in ”Paris”. Size S-XXXL.

Tags: lace, ponchos, top down,
DROPS design: Pattern no w-614
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
750-850-900 g colour no 16, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 16 tr x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.25£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Diagrams A.1a and A.1b show how round beg and ends.

CROCHET INFO:
Beg every tr round with 3 ch (these ch do not replaces first tr). At the end of round work 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
NOTE: When working A.5 beg round with 3 ch. At the end of round work 1 tr in first st worked on round (i.e. st with the 3 ch in), then 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

WORK 2 DTR TOG:
Work 1 dtr around ch-space below but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), skip 1 dc and work 1 dtr around next ch-space but on last pull through, pull yarn through all loops on hook.

WORK 3 DTR TOG:
Work 1 dtr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 more dtr but wait with last pull through (= 3 loops on hook), work 1 more dtr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all loops on hook.

MESH PATTERN:
ROUND 1: * Start with 1st row of A.5, work the 4 tr in first/next tr with marker, work (1 ch, ship 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr) until 1 tr remains before next marker, work 1 ch, skip next tr *, repeat from *-* 3 times more. There is now 4 repeats of A.5 on round.
ROUND 2: * Work A.5 around first/next ch-space with marker, then work 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr around first ch-space, (1 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next ch-space) until 1 ch-space remains before next repeat of A.5, work 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* 3 times more.

ROUND 3: * Work A.5 around first/next ch-space with marker, then work (1 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr around next ch-space) until next repeat of A.5, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 3 times more.
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PONCHO:
Worked in the round, top down. First inc mid front, mid back and on each shoulder, then inc only mid front and mid back.

Work 153-163-163 ch on hook size 4.5 mm with Paris and form a ring with 1 sl st. Work 3 ch – see CROCHET INFO! Then work 1 tr in each of the next 3-1-1 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* 24-26-26 more times on round = 128-136-136 tr + 3 ch on round. Now insert 4 markers from beg of round without working: Insert 1 marker in 1st tr on round (= mid back), skip 31-33-33 tr, insert 1 marker in next tr (= shoulder), skip 31-33-33 tr, insert 1 marker in next tr (= mid front), skip 31-33-33 tr, insert 1 marker in next tr (= shoulder), there are now 31-33-33 tr between last marker and beg of round.
Now work MESH PATTERN - see explanation above. When 1st-3rd round have been worked, repeat 2nd and 3rd round until 6-7-8 rounds with mesh pattern have been worked - see diagram A.4a and A.4b to see how to work the whole inc in each side of A.5. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Piece measures approx. 8-9-10 cm.

Work next round as follows AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-8-8 tr evenly (= 0-4-4 tr dec on each side of mid back and mid front): *Work (2 tr, 3 ch, 2 tr) around ch-space (= mid back on 1st repetition and mid front on 2nd repetition), then work 1 tr in every tr and 1 tr around every ch until next inc tr-group, work 3 tr around ch-space (= shoulder), work 1 tr in every tr and 1 tr around every ch until inc tr-group (mid front on 1st repetition and mid back on 2nd repetition)*, repeat from *-* 1 more time.

There are now 117-125-133 tr between ch-space mid front and mid back (= 234-250-266 tr in total on round + 2 ch-space). Cut the yarn. NOTE: Then do not inc on each shoulder but only mid front and mid back on poncho.

Work 1 sl st in the 10th st from ch-space mid back and work pattern as follows: Work A.1a (shows how round beg and end, does not replace first st), A.2a (= 8 tr) 13-14-15 times in width, A.3a (= inc mid front), continue with A.2a 14-15-16 times in width, A.3a (= inc mid back) and A.2a 1 time in all sizes. On 4th round in A.3a there are 133-141-149 tr between ch-space mid front and mid back. Continue with pattern as before (there is now room for 16-17-18 repetitions A.2a on each side of A.3a). On 10th round inc 8 tr evenly on each side of A.3a (= 16 tr in total on round) = 163-171-179 tr on each side of ch-space mid front and mid back. Continue with pattern as before, but now work A.1b over A.1a, A.2b over A.2a and A.3b over A.3a (there is now room for 19-20-21 repetitions A.2 on each side of A.3). On 4th round inc 3 tr evenly between every repetitions of A.3 (i.e. 6 tr in total on round) = 169-177-185 tr between each ch-space mid front and mid back. Continue pattern (there is now room for 21-22-23 repetitions A.2 on each side of A.3). When entire diagram has been worked vertically, piece measures 36-37-38 cm. Cut the yarn.

Now work mesh pattern as at beg of piece. Beg in ch-space mid back, and work mesh pattern from 3rd round in mesh pattern. Repeat 2nd and 3rd round until 6-8-10 rounds in total have been worked (incl last round in A.2 and A.3).
Work next round as follows: * Work (2 tr, 3 ch, 2 tr) around ch-space (= mid back), then work 1 tr in every tr and 1 tr around every ch until next repeat of A.5 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 193-209-225 tr between ch-space mid front and mid back. Cut the yarn.

Now work pattern A.1a, A.2a and A.3a as follows:
Work 1 sl st in 12th tr from ch-space mid back and work pattern as follows: Work A.1a (shows how round beg and end, does not replace first st), A.2a until 2 tr remain before ch-space mid front, A.3a (= inc mid front), continue with A.2a until 2 tr remain before ch-space mid back, A.3a (= inc mid back) and A.2a 1 time in all sizes. When 4th row has been worked vertically, poncho measures 49-52-54 cm. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.03.2016
Chart A.2a.
Changes in the 8th round. It should be: 1 dc in sts, not 1 dc around sts.
Updated online: 28.10.2016
Correction: New diagrams A.4a, A.4b and A.5. Pattern has been updated according to these. Also a correction in A.2a.

Diagram

= 1 ch
= 1 dc around st
= 1 dc in st
= 1 dc around ch-space, 3 ch
= 1 tr in st
= 1 tr around ch/ch-space
= 1 dtr around st
= Work 2 triple tr into 1 triple tr as follows: Work 1 triple tr but wait with last pull through = 2 sts on hook. Work 1 triple tr more in same st but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
= WORK 3 DTR TOG - see explanation in pattern
= WORK 2 DTR TOG - see explanation in pattern
= Work picot as follows: Work 2 ch, 1 htr in last tr worked
= work in this st
= beg round with 4 ch, and finish round 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round
= beg round with 2 ch, and finish round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch at beg of round
= beg round with 6 ch, and finish round 1 sl st in 6th ch at beg of round
= this round is explained in pattern





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 169-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (184)

Stephanie Freeman 11.10.2020 - 02:41:

I made this beautiful Light's Embrace for my daughter. I reduced the pattern to an XS size. It turned out beautiful, just like the one pictured here. She loves it! Thank you! (I have a photo but not sure how to post it.)

JOwita 25.09.2020 - 11:34:

Ma byc 153 oczka lancuszka, ale w kolejnym rzędzie ma byc 128 slupkow +slupek z 3 oczek. Trzeba przerabiac: "1 oczko opuscic +5 sł" x 25 co daje 6x25 = 150 oczek i 3 poczatkowe. Czyli na koncu rzedu mam 5 slupkow kończących, ktore maja sie łaczyc od razu z "poczatkiem czyli ze sł utworzonym z 3oł i 3 sł? Te 3 oł poczatkowe w rzędzie maja być w tym samym oczku co pierwszy słupek?

DROPS Design 25.09.2020 kl. 18:42:

Witaj Jowito! Na początku jest 3 oł, ale ominęłaś fragment 'przer. 1 sł w każde z 3 następnych oł', *opuścić 1 oł, przer. 5 sł w każde z 5 nast. oł*. Powtórzyć od *-* w sumie 25 razy. Na końcu okrążenia przer. 1 oz w 3-cie oł na pocz. okrążenia. Pierwszy sł za 3 oł na początku okrążenia, przerabiasz w 4-te oł od szydełka. Zobacz WSKAZÓWKĘ na górze wzoru. Powodzenia!

Janina 17.08.2020 - 14:28:

Muss ich bei den ersten drei Reihen des Netzmusters im ersten Abschnitt des Ponchos die Zunahmen von 4a und 4b auch schon häkeln? Wenn nicht verstehe ich nicht wie der Text für das Netzmuster umzusetzen ist.

DROPS Design 17.08.2020 kl. 15:54:

Liebe Janina, wenn Sie im Netzmuster häkeln sollen, häkeln Sie wie unter NETZMUSTER erklärt, bzw nehmen Sie von Anfang an, dh Netzmuster wie A.4a und A.4b und A.5 bei den Zunahmen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Theresa Pretto 13.07.2020 - 16:05:

I wish I had read the comments before I started this poncho. The pattern is poorly explained and difficult to follow. I have pulled out, restarted, pulled out again, about 5 times. I have almost 50 years experience in crocheting, and I have never admitted defeat before. The problem is how this is explained. Has the pattern been translated from another language into English perhaps? Regards, Theresa

Susan 10.07.2020 - 13:50:

Tried about 25 times to get past row 1...These patterns impossible to follow.

Catherine Morrison 08.07.2020 - 02:28:

I have downloaded the UK version of this pretty pattern. can you believe im stuck on the first row. I really don't understand the 3 chain added to each row if it doesn't make the first treble. Does it leave a loop. I have crocheted for years. I mainly like to follow diagrams so once I get going i will be fine. I just don't want to ruin the start. Thank you

DROPS Design 08.07.2020 kl. 08:21:

Dear Mrs Morrison, I'm not sure which 3 chains you are talking about, do you mean the 3 chains the beg of the round, the one explained under CROCHET INFO ? Then yes these 3 chains are worked extra to the first treble of the round, they do not count in the number of stitches on the rounds. They are worked as usual at the beginning of a treble round but you just don't count them as a stitch. Hope this helps. Happy crocheting!

Claire 28.06.2020 - 23:32:

Bonjour, je suis au tour 5 de A2a etc. Je me retrouve avec de la place pour 14 motifs (en retirant l'espace des 13 brides+ml de A3a) au lieu de 16, alors qu'au tour précédent j'ai le bon nombre de brides de chaque côté des augmentation de devant et du dos. Sauriez-vous me dire où se trouve mon erreur ? Merci

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 09:00:

Bonjour Claire, si vous avez bien le bon nombre de mailles (= 133 brides au 4ème tour entre l'arceau du milieu devant et celui du milieu dos), vous devez avoir le même nombre de mailles au tour 5, puis au tour 6, les brides/mailles en l'air de chaque côté de l'arceau du milieu de A.3a vont être crochetées en A.2a comme les autres. Bon crochet!

Garrido Marie José 28.06.2020 - 16:29:

Vos explications sont incompréhensibles. En Français. Je me demande si je vais y arriver. Je suis très déçue.

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 14:13:

Bonjour Mme Garrido, Les modèles DROPS sont réalisés par des milliers de personnes dans le monde entier. Nous comprenons toutefois qu’en fonction du pays, les explications puissent être formulées différemment. Nous faisons naturellement en sorte que nos modèles soient compréhensibles. Vous pouvez volontiers poser votre question ici, et pour toute assistance individuelle, vous adresser au magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine – même par mail ou téléphone. Bon crochet!

Jess 28.05.2020 - 20:07:

Bonjour, après y avoir passé pas mal de temps, avoir lu les commentaires pour m'aider, je suis arrivée au rang final ! Mais voilà, en le mettant, il est bien trop court aux bras !!! J'ai fait la taille S/M, devant il tombe plutôt bien, mais les bras il m'arrive a plein aux coudes... De plus, je trouvé l'endroit des épaules très marqué. D'où viennent mes 2 problèmes selon vous ? Merci par avance. Et merci pour tous les diagrammes !

DROPS Design 29.05.2020 kl. 08:04:

Bonjour Jess, il est difficile de pouvoir répondre à votre question ainsi, apportez votre ouvrage à votre magasin ou bien envoyez-lui une photo par mail, il pourra probablement vous en dire plus. Vous pouvez également montrer votre ouvrage dans notre groupe DROPS Workshop où d'autres crocheteuses pourront peut-être vous aider. Bon crochet!

Jessalyn Caple 06.01.2020 - 23:24:

I am not sure how I am supposed to do row 6 of A2. I am not sure how the crocheting works here as well as how they relate to the previous row. Could you please explain how to do this?

DROPS Design 07.01.2020 kl. 08:57:

Dear Mrs Caple, this video shows how to crocheet A.2a and A.3a, does it apply to the part of diagram you are looking for? Happy crocheting!

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