DROPS / 168 / 7

Mercy by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS fitted jacket with leaf pattern, worked top down in “Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no cl-056
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
500-550-600-700-750-800 g color no 08, ice blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - for edges.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP (applies to inc for armhole on body):
All inc are done from RS. Inc inside 2 edge sts in garter st by picking up yarn between 2 sts, slip yarn on needle and K yarn twisted to avoid hole (= 1 st inc).

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeve):
All dec are done from RS! Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 tog, marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 button hole = beg from WS on right front piece and K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO. Dec for first buttonhole on first row from WS after neck inc is done. Then dec the next 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes every 7-7½-8-7-7½-8 cm / 2 3/4"-2 7/8"-3 1/8"-2 3/4"-2 7/8"-3 1/8" downwards.
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JACKET:
Worked top down, back and forth on circular needle.
Beg with back piece, then work front pieces before slipping all parts tog and working in one piece until finished measurements. Work sleeves separately, top down.

LEFT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Cast on 17-20-21-24-26-29 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Cotton Light. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, P from WS until 2 sts remain on row and finish with K 2 (= edge sts towards armhole). Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above (= edge sts against armhole), 6-0-1-4-6-0 sts stockinette st, then work A.1 over the next 9-18-18-18-18-27 sts (= 1-2-2-2-2-3 repetitions of 9 sts). Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', cast on 1 new st at the end of next row from RS. Work back from WS as before and then cast on 34 new sts for neck at the end of next row from RS = 52-55-56-59-61-64 sts on needle. Put piece aside and work right shoulder back.

RIGHT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Cast on as on left shoulder back and K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, K the first 2 sts (= edge sts towards armhole) and P the rest of row. Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.1 over the first 9-18-18-18-18-27 sts (= 1-2-2-2-2-3 repetitions of 9 sts), work 6-0-1-4-6-0 stockinette st and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st towards armhole. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', cast on 1 new st at the end of row from WS = 18-21-22-25-27-30 sts on needle. Work 1 row pattern back from RS.

YOKE AT THE BACK:
Slip sts from left and right shoulder on to same circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 = 70-76-78-84-88-94 sts on needle. Continue pattern back and forth over all sts with 2 edge sts in garter st and 6-0-1-4-6-0 sts stockinette st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE.
When piece measures 15-16-15-15-15-14 cm / 6"-6 1/4"-6"-6"-6"-5½", work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in garter st, 6-0-1-4-6-0 sts stockinette st, work A.2A one time, work A.2B over the next 45-63-63-63-63-81 sts (= 5-7-7-7-7-9 repetitions of 9 sts), work 6-0-1-4-6-0 sts stockinette st and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st. When A.2 has been worked one time vertically, there are 77-85-87-93-97-105 sts on needle. Continue with A.3A over A.2A and A.3B over A.2B the same way (there is now 1 st stockinette st more between each eyelet row). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-18-17-17-17-16 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 1/4", inc 1 st for armhole in each side – READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 2-2-5-7-8-11 times in total – NOTE: Work inc sts in stockinette st. On first row from RS after last inc cast on 2-2-3-3-5-7 new sts at the end of row for armhole. Repeat on next row from WS = 85-93-103-113-123-141 sts on needle. Put pieces aside and work front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 17-20-21-24-26-29 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, P from WS until 2 sts remain on row and finish with K 2 (= edge sts towards armhole). Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above (= edge sts against armhole), 6-0-1-4-6-0 sts stockinette st, then work A.1 over the next 9-18-18-18-18-27 sts (= 1-2-2-2-2-3 repetitions of 9 sts). Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 5-5-5-7-7-7 cm / 2"-2"-2"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4", cast on new sts for neck at the end of every row from RS as follows: Cast on 1 st 4 times, 2 sts 3 times and 13 sts 1 time = 40-43-44-47-49-52 sts. Continue the pattern with 2 edge sts in garter st towards the armhole and 5 band sts in garter st towards mid front (there is now room for 3-4-4-4-4-5 repetitions of A.1). Remember BUTTONHOLES on band - see explanation above.
When piece measures 15-16-15-15-15-14 cm / 6"-6 1/4"-6"-6"-6"-5½", work next row as follows from RS: Work 2 edge sts in garter st, 6-0-1-4-6-0 sts stockinette st, work A.2B over the next 27-36-36-36-36-45 sts (= 3-4-4-4-4-5 repetitions of 9 sts) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st towards mid front. When A.2B has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 43-47-48-51-53-57 sts on needle. Continue with A.3B over A.2B the same way (there is now 1 st stockinette st more between each eyelet row). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-18-17-17-17-16 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 1/4", inc 1 st for armhole in the side – READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 2-2-5-7-8-11 times in total. On first row from WS after last inc cast on 2-2-3-3-5-7 new sts at the end of row for armhole = 47-51-56-61-66-75 sts on needle. Put the piece aside and work left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on as on right front piece. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, K the first 2 sts (= edge sts towards armhole) and P the rest of row. Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.1 over the first 9-18-18-18-18-27 sts (= 1-2-2-2-2-3 repetitions of 9 sts), work 6-0-1-4-6-0 stockinette st and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st towards armhole. Continue pattern like this and continue as on right front piece but cast on new sts for neck at the end of every row from WS (instead of every row from RS). Work pattern according to diagram A.2C (instead of A.2B) and continue pattern according to A.3C (instead of A.3B). Inc for armhole from RS and then cast on 2-2-3-3-5-7 new sts for armhole at the end of next row from RS. Work 1 row from WS as before.

BODY:
Now work all pieces tog from RS on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 as follows: Work sts from left front piece (= 47-51-56-61-66-75 sts), insert 1 marker, work sts from back piece (= 85-93-103-113-123-141 sts), insert 1 marker and work sts from right front piece (= 47-51-56-61-66-75 sts) = 179-195-215-235-255-291 sts on needle - NOW MEASURE FROM HERE!
Continue back and forth with pattern according to diagram A.3 and stockinette st as before and with 5 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec in each side every 2-2-2½-2½-3-3½ cm / 3/4"-3/4"-7/8"-7/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/4" 7-6-6-6-6-5 times in total = 151-171-191-211-231-271 sts.
When piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm / 5½''-6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½'' (entire piece measures approx. 33-35-37-39-41-43 cm / 13''-13 3/4''-14½''-15 1/4''-16 1/8''-17'' from shoulder), remove the marker threads. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, work A.4A (= 11 sts), repeat A.4B over the next 120-140-160-180-200-240 sts (= 12-14-16-18-20-24 repetitions of 10 sts), work A.4C (= 10 sts) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st (sts worked in A.4 will now match with eyelets in A.3 on front and back piece). Continue pattern back and forth like this and inc as shown in diagram. When A.4 has been worked, there are 207-235-263-291-319-375 sts on needle. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, A.5A (= 15 sts), repeat A.5B over the next 168-196-224-252-280-336 sts (= 12-14-16-18-20-24 repetitions of 14 sts), work A.5C (= 14 sts) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st. When A.5 has been worked, piece measures approx. 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm / 25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾''-29½'' from shoulder. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work 3 rows rib (= with 5 band sts inK 1 / P 1) with garter st and 1 K in each side towards mid front (seen from RS). Then loosely bind off sts with K over K and P over P. Jacket measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'' from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle, then work sleeve in the round on double pointed needles until finished measurements.
Cast on 23-25-27-31-33-37 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Cotton Light. Insert 1 marker in the middle st on row.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
Work stockinette st back and forth and cast on new sts for sleeve cap at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 sts 1-1-2-5-4-3 times, 2 sts 7-8-6-1-1-0 times, 1 st 4-3-5-7-9-14 times and 2-2-3-3-5-7 sts 1 time = 69-73-79-85-89-97 sts on needle (piece measures approx. 9-9-10-10-11-13 cm / 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4½"-5"). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', work pattern according to diagram A.6 over the middle 17 sts (st with marker should match mid st in diagram – work the other sts in stockinette st). When sleeve cap has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Insert 1 marker thread at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) and continue in the round in stockinette st and A.6 over the middle sts. When A.6 has been worked one time vertically, work A.1 over the middle 5 sts until finished measurements (continue the other sts in stockinette st). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12-12-13-13-14-16 cm / 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5"-5"-5½"-6 1/4'', dec 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2½-2½-2-2-2-1½ cm / 7/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-½" 15-16-17-19-20-23 times in total = 39-41-45-47-49-51 sts. When sleeve measures 56-55-55-55-55-55 cm / 22"-21½"-21½"-21½"-21½"-21½" (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke) switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above, and loosely bind off with K, sleeve measures approx 57-56-56-56-56-56 cm / 22½"-22"-22"-22"-22"-22". Make another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edge. Place sleeve approx. ½ cm / 1/4'' in under edge in garter st along armhole and fasten neatly so that edge in garter st shows. Repeat in the other side.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 110 to 116 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Cotton Light. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS before loosely binding off with K from RS.
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts, P YO on next row (= hole)
= pick up yarn between 2 sts and K yarn twisted (= not hole)
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= mid st
= knitting direction




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 168-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (55)

Houthoofd 21.01.2020 - 17:46:

Dit vest wordt boven naar onder gebreid. Moeten de telpatronen dan ook van boven naar onder geïnterpreteerd worden?

DROPS Design 26.01.2020 kl. 14:50:

Dag Houthoofd,

Nee, de telpatronen lees je altijd van onder naar boven. (Hier is dus al rekening mee gehouden). Bij de meest gestelde vragen kun je ook informatie vinden over hoe je telpatronen leest.

Amy Knowles 05.12.2019 - 15:40:

Almost done but the instructions for attaching the sleeves are not clear to me. It sounds like the garter st edge of the bodice is to be placed on top of the sleeve cap so that it is visible. If so, how do I stitch the seam so that it looks neat. Won’t these stitches be visible as well? None of the tutorials seem to apply. This sweater is going to look lovely on my future daughter-in-law.

DROPS Design 06.12.2019 kl. 00:37:

Dear Amy, you are right, you put the sleeve under the body's garter stitch edge, and sew in a way that the ede is visible. You have to sew with small stitches and into the stitch that is inside the garter stitch at the armhole. It is best if the needle follows the yarn in the stitch. I hope this helps. We agree it is a lovely sweater. Please show us the finished piece either on Facebook group DROPS Workshop, or by tagging it with #dropsdesign . Happy Knitting!

Gurli-vang 11.07.2019 - 08:37:

Jeg har nu strikket ovenstående jakke, men der er fejl i den.\r\n9 rapporter gange 7 er 63 masker plus de 12 der er kantmasker giver 74m og ikke 70 som der står i opskriften, regner i ikke efter.\r\nvenlig hilsen\r\nGurli Vang

DROPS Design 11.07.2019 kl. 12:02:

Hei Gurli-vang. Hvor i oppskriften er du? og hvilken størrelse strikker du? Det eneste stedet det står du har 70 masker på pinnen, er for størrelse S på bærestykket bak. Men her skal du strikke 2 kantmasker rille, 6 masker glattstrikk, A.2A (=9 maker) totalt 1 gang, A.2B (=9 masker) totalt 5 ganger, 6 masker glattstrikk og 2 kantmasker = 2+6+9+45+6+2 = 70 masker. God fornøyelse

Wanda 06.05.2019 - 12:51:

Sweterek ładny. Ale opis tragiczny. czy to jest tłumaczenie google?. Ja robię sweterki , ale nie potrafię rozszyfrować tego opisu. To jest jakiś bełkot. Taka firma jak Drops powinna bardziej starać się o komunikatywność.

Carole Longhurst 27.01.2019 - 03:04:

Pattern No cl-056 I had a problem with the sleeve cap, it was not clear that I needed to REPEAT the pattern. I did repeat it and I then ended up with the correct no of stitches and the correct length.I knitted this in 8 ply cotton and added silk. Id love to send you a photo of the finished garment if you\'d like to see it. The friend I knitted this for was delighted with the results.

Carole Longhurst 04.11.2018 - 01:54:

Its OK. I have resolved my problem. I'm used to knitting from the bottom up not top down! I was holding the needle the wrong way. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Carole Longhurst 03.11.2018 - 02:12:

I am knitting this pattern but have a problem with the instructions for the RIGHT FRONT PIECE. If after switching needle size I "P from WS until 2 st remain on row and finish with K2" it will be the Left side not the right side. The back starts with the Left side and then goes to the right but the buttonholes need to be on the RIGHT.

DROPS Design 05.11.2018 kl. 08:40:

Dear Mrs Longhurst, this row is worked from WS, ie for right front piece beginning from the neck towards armhole = you finish this WS row with K2 towards armhole. Next row starts from RS from Armhole (= K2) and finishing by the neck. The K2 sts for armhole will be on the right side seen from RS (and on the left side seen from WS). Happy knitting!

Anne-Christine 14.07.2018 - 22:22:

Excusez-moi, je viens de comprendre!!!!!

Anne-Christine 14.07.2018 - 18:00:

Bonjour! Se pourrait-il que vous ayez inversé vos explications pour l'épaule dos gauche et l'épaule dos droite?

DROPS Design 16.07.2018 kl. 08:32:

Bonjour Anne Christine, il n'y a pas d'inversion, on tricote de haut en bas, sur l'endroit, l'épaule gauche commence par le côté emmanchure et se termine par le côté encolure et l'épaule droite sur l'endroit commence par le côté encolure et se termine par le côté emmanchure. Bon tricot!

Sytske 26.06.2018 - 22:50:

Vorig jaar het vest in Belle (zwart) gemaakt en nu brei ik het in Cotton light (druif). Kortom een prachtig vest wat mooi afkleed. Ik brei het wel met een V-hals, maar dat is persoonlijke voorkeur.

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