DROPS / 168 / 4

Sea Line by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS top with stripes and button band at the back in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no w-579
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-350 g color no 101, light blue
200-200-250-250-250-300 g color no 16, white

NOTE: Top worked in one color = 400-450-500-500-550-600 g Paris.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - for edges in garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON, flower (white), NO 600: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

* 1 row white, 1 row light blue *, repeat from *-*. NOTE: To avoid cutting the yarn work alternately 2 rows from RS and 2 rows from WS but note that the band sts in garter sts on these rows are worked as follows: * K from RS, P from RS, P from WS, K from WS *, repeat from *-*.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to body):
All dec are done from RS!
Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to armholes):
Dec inside 3 edge sts in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after 3 edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before 3 edge st: K 2 tog.

Dec for buttonholes on left back piece (seen from RS). 1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 29, 35, 42, 48 and 55 cm
SIZE M: 29, 36, 43, 51 and 57 cm
SIZE L: 29, 36, 44, 52 and 59 cm
SIZE XL: 29, 35, 42, 48, 55 and 61 cm
SIZE XXL: 29, 35, 42, 49, 56 and 63 cm
SIZE XXXL: 29, 37, 44, 51, 58 and 65 cm

Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid back.

Cast on 166-178-194-210-230-250 sts (includes 5 band sts in each side towards mid back) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with light blue. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and insert a marker 44-47-51-55-60-65 sts in from each side (= 78-84-92-100-110-120 sts between markers on front piece). Then work in stockinette st with 5 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid back. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP-1 (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm / 4"-4"-4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4" 3 times in total = 154-166-182-198-218-238 sts. Remember BUTTONHOLES on left band - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm / 11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8''-13¾'', work STRIPES over all sts - see explanation above!
When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm / 16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½'', continue with white until finished measurements - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm / 16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½'' work 2 ridges over the middle 12-14-16-20-24-28 sts in each side (work the other sts as before). On next row from RS after the ridges, bind off the middle 6-8-10-14-18-22 sts in each side for armholes and finish front and back pieces separately.

= 66-70-76-80-86-92 sts. Continue back and forth in stockinette st with 3 edge sts in garter st in each side. On first row from RS, dec 1 st more for armhole in each side - READ DECREASE TIP-2. Repeat dec every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 4-5-7-8-10-12 times in total = 58-60-62-64-66-68 sts. When piece measures 54-56-57-59-60-62 cm / 21 1/4"-22"-22½"-23 1/4"-23½"-24½", slip the middle 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue in stockinette st with 3 edge sts in garter st towards the armhole and bind off for neck at beg of every row from the neck as follows: bind off 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times = 15-16-16-17-17-18 sts remain on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' and bind off. Repeat on the other shoulder.

= 38-40-43-45-48-51 sts. Continue pattern back and forth with 5 band sts in garter st towards mid back and 3 edge sts in garter st towards armhole. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole as on front piece = 34-35-36-37-38-39 sts remain on needle. When piece measures 55-57-59-60-62-64 cm / 21½"-22½"-23 1/4"-23½"-24½"-25 1/4", slip the first 15-15-16-16-17-17 sts seen from RS on a stitch holder for neck (1 row should be worked after last buttonhole) - NOTE: To avoid cutting the yarn being used, work the sts before slipping them on the stitch holder. Then bind off at beg of every row from neck as follows: bind off 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 15-16-16-17-17-18 sts remain on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' and bind off.

Work as left but reversed.

Sew the shoulder seams.

Pick up from RS approx. 90 to 110 sts around the neck on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with white (including all sts slipped on threads). K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS before binding off with K from RS.
Sew on buttons.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 168-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (67)

Michelle 04.08.2020 - 19:18:

Am doing the large size so do i cast on 194sts + 10 for edges so 204 altogether?

DROPS Design 05.08.2020 kl. 07:49:

Dear Michelle, the 5 band sts are included, this means you cast on 194 sts (= 5 band sts, 184 sts, 5 band sts). Happy knitting!

Dixie 22.07.2020 - 22:20:

Picked up some organic cotton yarn for this in March and finished it mid-July. It was easy to follow the pattern and I am really enjoying it in this summer weather.

MARY 15.05.2020 - 15:31:

Bonjour, je tricote la taille L. Avant la séparation DEVANT/DOS les 10 m à rabattre "après les côtes mousse.." je ne comprends pas. Sur l'endroit le rang commence par 5m mousse + 11 m jersey + 16 m mousse + 16 m jersey pour le côté puis les 86 m jersey pour le dos avant le 2ème côté. Où faut il rabattre les 10 m . Merci de votre éclairage. Cordialement

DROPS Design 15.05.2020 kl. 16:33:

Bonjour Mary, vous tricotez la taille L, exact? à 44 cm vous tricotez comme avant mais en plus au point mousse sur les 16 mailles de chacun des 2 côtés (dessous des deux emmanchures). Après 2 côtes mousse tricotés sur ces 16 mailles (soit 4 rangs, les autres mailles se tricotent comme avant), vous rabattez les 10 m au milieu de ces 16 m, vous gardez ainsi: 3 m point mousse, vous rabattez les 10 m point mousse suivantes et gardez les 3 m point mousse suivantes, ces 3 m point mousse que vous gardez seront les mailles de bordure des emmanchures du devant et de chaque demi-dos. Bon tricot!

Linda Rasmussen 04.05.2020 - 11:23:

Jeg har strikket 18 cm af denne top og kan allerede nu se, at det oplyste garnforbrug er for lillie. I kommentarerne kan jeg se, at andre har gjort opmærksom på det, men I har ikke svaret, og det er tilsyneladende heller ikke ændret i opskriften. Jeg skal nu betale for 2 gange forsendelse, som koster næsten lige så meget som garnet, det er ikke rimeligt. Jeg imødeser jeres svar. Venlig hilsen Linda Rasmussen

DROPS Design 05.05.2020 kl. 09:15:

Hej Linda, Vil du komme tilbage med hvilken størrelse du strikker, hvor mange masker du har på 10x10 cm og hvor meget garn du har brugt, så skal vi absolut kigge på garnforbruget igen. Der er rigtig mange som har strikket denne model og som har haft garn nok, så det må være specielt for én størrelse. På forhånd tak!

Michels Mireille 25.07.2019 - 19:56:

Bonjour, Je suis en train de faire les rayures, tout se passe bien, par contre là où je comprends pas c'est au dessus des rayures à 44cm deux lignes de points mousse cela serai déjà pour l'encolure, mais sur la photo c est bien plus tard ? Merci pour votre réponse. On peut aussi mettre la photo même si la laine n est pas de chez vous sur Facebook ? Cordialement

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 10:15:

Bonjour Mme Michels, les côtes mousses tricotées à 44 cm (en taille L) sont pour les emmanchures, on va diviser l'ouvrage pour les 2 demi-dos et le devant juste après, ces côtes mousse sur les 16 m des côtés se tricotent donc juste après les rayures. Vous pouvez tout à fait montrer votre ouvrage sur notre groupe Facebook si vous le souhaitez. Bon tricot!

Amalia 07.06.2019 - 19:37:

Arrivata ai 12 cm .... le diminuzioni vanno fatte dopo e prima del segnapunti? ... praticamente sul davanti?

DROPS Design 07.06.2019 kl. 19:45:

Buongiorno Amalia. I segnapunti individuano i lati del top (sarebbe la cucitura se stesse lavorando in parti separate). Deve diminuire sia prima che dopo i segnapunti, quindi sia sul davanti che sui dietro. In tutto sul ferro diminuisce 4 m. Buon lavoro!

Amalia 07.06.2019 - 14:51:

Il lavoro si sviluppa separatamente avanti e i due dietri e poi si assemblano o cosa ....

DROPS Design 07.06.2019 kl. 17:24:

Buongiorno Amalia. Lavora in un pezzo unico fino agli scalfi, avanti e indietro. Chiude poi le maglie per gli scalfi e lavora il davanti e i due dietro separatamente. Unirà poi le spalle. Buon lavoro!

Linda 08.03.2019 - 20:44:

I am knitting the small size . Please can you clarify “ when piece measures 42cm work 2 ridges over the middle 12 sts on each side “ How many stitches from centre back should I work before starting the ridges?

DROPS Design 10.03.2019 kl. 16:49:

Dear Linda, count the stitches you have on your needles, divide teh number in two. Now take out six stitches. You should knit this many stitches in the row, then 12 stitches with garter stitch and again the number of stitches you started your rows with. Happy Knitting.

Maria 08.11.2018 - 09:11:

Grazie! Mi può indicare almeno per grandi linee come fare? grazie grazie grazie! Maria

DROPS Design 08.11.2018 kl. 10:15:

Buongiorno Maria. Purtroppo in questa sede non riusciamo a dare un aiuto di questo tipo. Può contattare il suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia che le darà sicuramente qualche indicazione utile. Buon lavoro!

Maria 08.11.2018 - 08:49:

Buongiorno, ho cominciato a lavorare questo modello come mio primo lavoro. Siccome ho lavorato un po' strettino, mi chiedevo se era possibile aggiungere delle maniche per evitare che sia troppo pesante come top! Grazie Maria

DROPS Design 08.11.2018 kl. 09:05:

Buongiorno Maria. Sì, può aggiungere le maniche, della lunghezza che preferisce. Buon lavoro!

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