DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Sweet Martine

Crochet DROPS poncho with squares and lace pattern in ”Cotton Light”. The piece is worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 167-21
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-060
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M – L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
400-400-450-500 g color no 21, light beige
150 g for all sizes in color no 01, off white
NOTE: Poncho worked in one color = 500-550-600-650 g Cotton Light.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 dc x 9 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. On diagram A.1 work first round in the entire round, then repeat A.1 and A.3 4 times in total on round. Diagram A.2 shows how every round beg and ends. A.5 shows how squares are assembled.

CROCHET INFO:
Beg every round with dc with 3 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.

STRIPES:
Work 0-4-4-4 rounds with light beige, then work * 2 rounds with off white, work 4 round with light beige *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total.

INCREASE:
On 1st round in A.4 (i.e. round with dc and ch) inc as follows: Work ch 1, around ch-space at the tip work as follows: 2 dc around ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc around same ch-space.
On 2nd round in A.4 (i.e. round with dc) inc as follows: Work 1 dc around ch, around ch-space at the tip work as follows: 2 dc around ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc around same ch-space.
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PONCHO:
The piece is worked from the neck down. First work squares as follows:

SQUARE:
Work 4 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light beige and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work A.1. Diagram A.2 shows how every round beg and ends. When first round of A.1 is worked, repeat A.1 4 times in total on round. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 16 ch-spaces and 4 corners.

Work A.3 over A.1, i.e. repeat A.3 4 times in total on round (see diagram for correct size). NOTE: First round in A.3 is not worked, it only shows how next round is worked around sts. Diagram A.2 shows how every round beg and ends. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 80-80-100-120 dc and 4 corners. Fasten off. Square measures approx. 15-15-17-19 x 15-15-17-19 cm / 6"-6"-6 3/4"-7½" x 6"-6"-6 3/4"-7½". REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Work 8 squares.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew squares tog edge to edge (see A.5) i.e. sew in outer loops of edge sts. These make up the upper part of poncho. Now work in the round from bottom edge of squares as follows:

FROM SQUARES AND DOWN:
ROUND 1: Beg in the side of square (see A.5), in the middle of the 1st square (i.e. 10-10-12-15 dc before corner). Work 3 ch – READ CROCHET INFO, work 1 dc in each of the first 10-10-12-15 dc, * over the 2 corners sewn tog work as follows: 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc around each of the next 2 corners, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc *, then work 1 dc in every dc until next corner sewn tog (= over the next 20-20-25-30 dc), repeat from *-* over the next 2 corners sewn tog, 1 dc in each of the next 20-20-25-30 dc, over the next corner inc (see A.5) as follows: Work 1 dc around ch, around ch-space at the tip work as follows: 2 dc around ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc around same ch-space, 1 dc around next ch. Work 1 dc in every dc and from *-* over the next 8 corners sewn tog and the next 100-100-125-150 dc (i.e. 20-20-25-30 dc between each of the 2 corners sewn tog).
Around next corner inc as follows: Work 1 dc around ch, around ch-space at the tip work as follows: 2 dc around ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc around same ch-space. Work 1 dc in every dc and from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch = 276-276-326-376 dc.

ROUND 2: Work with off white - READ STRIPES. Work A.4 until 3 dc remain before ch-space in the tip, adjust to finish with 1 dc in last dc, work INCREASE – see explanation above. Repeat A.4 until next tip, work increase, work A.4 the rest of round. On every round inc 8 dc, i.e. inc 2 dc on each side of mid front/back.

Repeat stripes and A.4 until finished measurements. When stripes have been worked, piece measures approx. 36-40-42-44 cm / 14 1/4"-15 3/4"-16½"-17 1/4" from the neck.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM:
ROUND 1: Work with light beige. Work ch 1, work 1 sc in first dc, work * ch 5, skip 4 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* until mid front/back, ** adjust so that last sc is worked around ch-space mid front/back, ch 5, 1 sc around same ch-space **, repeat from *-* until mid front/back, repeat from **-** around ch-space mid front/back, repeat from *-* the rest of round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch at beg of round.

ROUND 2: Work ch 3, 1 sl st around first ch-space, 2 ch (= 1 hdc), work * ch 4, 1 hdc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* until ch-space mid front/back, ** ch 4, around ch-space mid front/back work 1 hdc + 4 ch + 1 hdc **, repeat from *-* until mid front/back, repeat from **-** around ch-space mid front/back, repeat from *-* the rest of round, finish with 1 sl st in 2nd ch (= hdc) at beg of round.

ROUND 3: Work 3 ch (= 1 dc), work 5 dc around every ch-space, around ch-space mid front/back work: ch 1, 2 dc around ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc around same ch-space, ch 1, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round. Fasten off.

NECK EDGE:
Beg mid front - see diagram and work with light beige on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Work as follows from RS:

ROUND 1: Work 1 sc around ch-space in the middle (tip for the middle square), ** work ch 5, skip corner (i.e. 3 ch + 2 dc), 1 sc around ch, * ch 5, skip 5 dc, 1 sc between 2 dc *, repeat from *-* 2-2-3-4 more times, ch 5, skip 5 dc, 1 sc around ch, ch 5, 1 sc in seam between squares **, repeat from **-** around the entire neck, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.

ROUND 2: Work ch 2, 1 sl st around first ch-space, 2 ch (= 1 hdc), * ch 4, 1 hdc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch-space remains before mid back, work 1 hdc around the next 2 ch-spaces, repeat from *-* until 1 ch-space remains, work 1 hdc around last ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in 2nd ch (= 1 hdc) at beg of round.

ROUND 3: Work 3 ch (= 1 dc), work 2 dc around first ch-space, work 5 dc around every ch-space until 1 ch-space remains before mid back, work 3 dc around each of the next 2 ch-spaces, work 5 dc around every ch-space until 1 ch-space remains, work 3 dc around last ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in first dc. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 12.04.2016
Correction: New diagram A.1 and A.2.
Updated online: 24.10.2016
New chart A.4 added.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = Work 4 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch (see point on circle), start and stop round here.
symbols = ch
symbols = sc around ch-space
symbols = beg round with ch 3, and finish round 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round
symbols = dc around ch-space
symbols = dc in dc
symbols = dc-group with 2 dc: Work 1 dc around next ch/ch-space but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc around same ch/ch-space but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.
symbols = corner Work around ch-space as follows: 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc
symbols = crochet direction
symbols = sl st
symbols = this round is explained in pattern
symbols = beg working from squares and down here
symbols = mid front/back - inc here - see INCREASE
symbols = beg working neck edge here
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (68)

country flag Jannie Schmidt wrote:

Jeg har syet ruderne sammen vrang mod vrang (kun tre indtil videre). Er det korrekt. Syntes vrangsiden ser pænest ud. Venter på svar.

22.06.2017 - 09:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jannie. De skal ikke sys sammen vrangen mot vrangen, men legg kantene mot hverandre (rett opp) og sy i ytterste ledd av ytterste maske. Men du kan selvsagt sy vrangen mot vrangen, men som du sier, så synes du vrangsiden så penest ut. God Fornøyelse!

26.06.2017 - 11:47

country flag Nicoletta wrote:

Non e' comprensibile il diagramma A4 e non c'e il diagramma A5 pertanto non riesco a proseguire il lavoro. Mi potete aiutarre ? GRAZIE

18.05.2017 - 19:43

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Nicoletta. Nel diagramma A4 alterna un giro con 1 cat, 1 maglia alta (ripetuto su tutto il giro) con un giro lavorato tutte a maglie alte. Trova il diagramma A5 subito sopra allo schema con le misure; è la figura alla destra del diagramma A4. Buon lavoro!

18.05.2017 - 20:35

country flag Kim Hansen wrote:

Hoi, Zou je mij uitleg willen geven over A4 want volgens mij heb ik iets fout gedaan en ik zie niet wat? Gr Kim

19.03.2017 - 11:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Kim. Je haakt A.4 langs de rand tot aan de punten (hier haak je de meerderingen zoals beschreven). Het is 1 l, 1 stk in de ene toer en 1 stk om de l en 1 stk in het stk in de volgende toer.

20.03.2017 - 13:46

Z-url.us wrote:

Hi, eu acho que eu vi que você visitou meu blogue Web site assim eu vim para "retribuir o favor" Estou. Tentando a encontrar coisas para melhorar melhorar o meu ! web site suponho que o seu ok para usar alguns dos suas ideias !!

23.11.2016 - 00:35

DROPS Design answered:

Desde que refira SEMPRE a fonte de inspiração para suas ideias, fazendo referência à DROPS, pode usar nossas ideias.

23.11.2016 - 11:41

Natalia wrote:

Tendrían un video explicativo sobre como continuar el poncho de los cuadros hacia abajo? Realmente al comenzar a leer la indicación no esta claro lo de 10-10-12-15 p.a. Podrían subir un patrón o un video de ser posible donde lo explique mas claramente? Gracias!

02.11.2016 - 22:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Natalia. Estamos incluyendo vídeos según van surgiendo dudas de nuestras lectoras, pero es imposible acompañar todos los patrones con vídeos paso a paso. Este patrón tiene un vídeo para elaborar el cuadrado que es la parte más complicada del poncho. La parte inferior del poncho se trabaja según las explicaciones del patrón. Todos los pátrones de Drops están explicados para varias tallas, por eso cuando tienes varios números como en este caso 10-10-12-15 p.a. significa que para las tallas S/M se trabajan 10 p.a., para la talla L/XL - 10 p.a., para la talla XXL 12 p.a. y para la XXXL 15 p.a.

10.11.2016 - 09:04

Martha Carrasquilla wrote:

Ustedes tiene el patron del cuatro pero no tiene para seguir ese poncho hasta el final tan lindo ayudemen por favor es muy bonito se lo agradeciera mucho

24.09.2016 - 03:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Martha. El patrón está completo. Lee "DESDE LOS CUADRADOS HACIA ABAJO". Te recomiendo ver también los videos

03.10.2016 - 23:17

Jessie wrote:

Hi I have just started A1 but I am now confused as to what you mean when you say repeat A1 round 4 times

15.09.2016 - 07:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jessie, diagram A.1 only shows 1/4 of whole rounds, ie you will have to repeat each row a total of 4 times in the round. See also video below. Happy crocheting!

15.09.2016 - 09:11

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Bij het patroon van de vierkantjes staat dat je de kleur naturel moet gebruiken als je de originele kleur aan houd, moet dit echter niet juist de lichtbeige zijn? Of ben ik nou gek? Groetjes ingrid

06.09.2016 - 20:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Ingrid. Ja, je hebt gelijk. Je haakt de vierkantjes met beige. Ik zal het aanpassen.

07.09.2016 - 13:24

country flag Mariuca wrote:

Be blessed! may God bless u so much for all the help and the beautiful things u do! thank u! u cannot imagine the joy i have seeing so many beautiful things someone can create helped by ur site! thank u!

22.07.2016 - 09:45

Antonella wrote:

Is there anyone put there that has managed to put this pattern in writing? The diagrams are just very confusing. I really want to make this poncho..help?

16.07.2016 - 18:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Antonella, start reading diagrams from the right towards the left every round - each symbol represents 1 stitch or group of stitch as explained under diagram text. Please find here some pictures explaining how to crochet the square. Happy crocheting!

18.07.2016 - 09:05