DROPS / 160 / 1

Summer Feeling by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dress with lace pattern and raglan in ”Muskat” or "Belle". Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no r-671
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 82-88-96-106-120-130 cm / 32 1/4"-34½"-37 3/4"-41 3/4"-47 1/4"-51½"
Full length: 84-86-88-90-92-94 cm / 33"-34"-34½"-35½"-36 1/4"-37"

Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
650-750-800-900-950-1050 g color no 08, off white

Or use:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
550-650-700-750-800-900 g colour no 02, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - for edge in garter st.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st before marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 tog.

RAGLAN:
Inc differently for raglan in the different sizes:
SIZE S-M:
Inc 1 sts on each side of each marker (= 8 sts inc in total) as follows: I1 YO, K 1 twisted, K 1 (= st with marker), K 1 twisted, 1 YO. NOTE: The inc on each sides of 1st marker (= in the last st on round) is worked as follows: at beginning of round, K 1 twisted, 1 YO. At the end of round: 1 YO, K 1 twisted, K.1 (= st with marker) Do not work YOs twisted on next round, they should make holes, repeat inc every other round 17-19 more times.
SIZE L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Inc 2 sts on each side of each marker (= 16 sts inc in total each round) as follows: 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K 1 twisted, K 1(= st with marker), K 1 twisted, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO (first and last YO is worked twisted on next round, it should not make a hole but, the 2 midle YO should be K as normal and make a hole). Repeat inc on every other round 1-1-1-3 more times. NOTE: The inc on eich side of 1st marker(= in the last st on round) is worked as follows: at beginning of round, K 1 twisted, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO. At the end of round: 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1 twisted, K.1 (= st with marker)
Then inc like as follows:
Inc 1 sts at each side of each marker (= 8 sts inc in total) as follows: 1 YO, K 1 twisted, K 1(= st with marker), K 1 twisted, 1 YO. Do not K YOs twisted on next round, they should make holes. Repeat inc every other round 19-20-22-21 more times in total.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.
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YOKE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Cast on 134-134-140-144-144-148 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat or "Belle". Work A.1 (= 2 sts) over all sts. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. On next round K all sts and inc 16-20-14-22-42-46 sts evenly = 150-154-154-166-186-194 sts. On next round insert 4 markers in the midle st of each raglan as follows: Insert 1st in last st on round, K 45-47-49-55-65-71 sts (= front piece), K 1 sts and insert 2nd marker in this st, K 28-28-26-26-26-24 sts (= sleeve), K 1 sts and insert 3rd marker in this st, K 45-47-49-55-65-71 sts (= back piece), K 1 st and insert 4th marker in this st, K 28-28-26-26-26-24 sts (= sleeve). K 1 sts (1st marker is placed in this st). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE

Then work as follows - AT THE SAME TIME inc for RAGLAN - see explanation above. Work half the raglan inc for 1st marker (see explanation above) K 13-14-14-17-22-25 K 14-15-16-19-24-27 sts, A.2 (= 17 sts), K until 1-1-2-2-2-2 st remains before 2nd marker, work RAGLAN - see explanation above, K until 1-1-2-2-2-2 sts remain before 3rd marker, work raglan, K 0-1-1-4-9-12 sts, A.3 (= 43 sts), K until 1-1-2-2-2-2 st remains before 4th marker, work raglan, K until 1-1-2-2-2-2 sts remain before 1st marker, work raglan. Work the inc sts in stockinette st until they can be worked in pattern as shown in A.3.

When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work in stockinette st over all these sts. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.4 (= 57 sts) over A.3. After all inc are done there are 294-314-338-358-394-426 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm / 5½''-6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''. Continue with pattern and stockinette st as before AT THE SAME TIME work as follows: Work the first 81-87-95-103-117-129 sts (= front piece), slip the next 66-70-74-76-80-84 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts), work the next 81-87-95-103-117-129 sts (= back piece), slip the next 66-70-74-76-80-84 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts) = 174-186-202-222-250-274 sts remain on needle. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue to work A.4 and stockinette st over the remaining sts. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', dec 1 st on each side of each markers in the sides (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 2½-4-4-4-4-4 cm / 7/8"-1½"-1½"-1½"-1½"-1½" 5-3-3-3-3-3 more times = 150-170-186-206-234-258 sts. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work in stockinette st over all sts. When piece measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm / 7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8 ¾''-9'' insert 4 markers as follows: Work 15-17-19-21-25-27 sts, insert 1st marker, work 45-51-55-61-67-75 sts, insert 2nd marker, work 30-34-38-42-50-54 sts, insert 3rd marker, work 45-51-55-61-67-75 sts, insert 4th marker, work the remaining 15-17-19-21-25-27 sts. 1st and 2nd marker are on front piece, and 3rd and 4th marker are on back piece. Move the markers upwards when working. On next round inc 1 st before 1st and 3rd marker and 1 st after 2nd and 4th marker (= 4 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP. NOTE: No of sts mid front and mid back is the same, inc in side sts.

Repeat inc every 6th round 1 more time, then every 4th round 6-5-6-5-6-10 times, then every other round 22-18-22-18-18-8 times = 270-270-306-306-338-338 sts. On next round, inc 2-2-0-0-2-2 sts evenly = 272-272-306-306-340-340 sts. Work in stockinette st until piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾'' (or desired length, approx. 25 cm / 9 3/4'' remain). Then work A.6 (= 34 sts) 8-8-9-9-10-10 times in total in width. When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work A.5 over all sts. Bind off.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts under sleeve = 72-76-80-84-88-92 sts.
Work in stockinette st for 2 cm / 3/4'', on next round dec 8 sts evenly = 64-68-72-76-80-84 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work A.5 over all sts. Bind off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 06.03.2015
(YOKE: One number missing in size L in explenation for raglan.)
Updated online: 01.06.2015
Raglan and yoke has been rephrased.
Updated online: 13.12.2018
Correction - RAGLAN: 1/2 of the inc for raglan by the 1st marker is done at the beginning of the round, and the other 1/2 at the end of round. Correction - YOKE:Work half the raglan inc for 1st marker (see explanation above) K 12-14-14-17-22-25 sts, A.2 (= 17 sts), K until 1-1-2-2-2-2 st remains before 2nd marker, work RAGLAN - see explanation above, K until 1-1-2-2-2-2 sts remain before 3rd marker, work raglan, K 0-1-1-4-9-12 sts...
Updated online: 12.03.2019
Correction - YOKE: Work half the raglan inc for 1st marker (see explanation above) K 13-14-14-17-22-25 sts

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= P
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 160-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (191)

Lara 01.12.2019 - 13:58:

Bom dia, estou a fazer este modelo e não estou a compreender como vou fazer as diminuições de cada lado do marcador, depois de ter colocado em espera as malhas para as mangas. O que me confude é que pedem para colocar marcadores entre as malhas das mangas, a seguir pedem para fazer diminuições de cada lados dos marcadores no entanto o número de malhas para as mangas continua a ser mesmo.

DROPS Design 03.12.2019 kl. 09:43:

As malhas colocadas em espera são as malhas para as mangas. O marcador é colocado de cada lado das novas malhas que se montam fdepois de colocar as malhas de uma manga em espera. Essas novas malhas fecham a cava e vão unir o corpo. O marcador que se coloca entre essas novas malhas montadas marca os lados do corpo (costas + frente) do vestido e são essas malhas que vai tricotar, Só depois de tricotar o corpo do vestido é que vai tricotar cada manga. Bom Tricô!

Charley 07.11.2019 - 21:39:

Hallo, Ik heb net de steken voor de mouwen op de hulpdraden gezet maar (dat moest als het goed is meteen na dat de meerderingen klaar waren). patroon A3 is nou dus nog niet af daar moet ik nog 17 naalden van breien. in het patroon staat na het op de hulpdraad zetten van de mouwen dat je verder moet gaan in A4 en gaan meten om te gaan minderen. Nou is mijn vraag brei ik eerst A3 af en moet ik dan verder gaan met A4 en het minderen of moet ik nou al meteen beginnen met minderen?

DROPS Design 15.11.2019 kl. 15:14:

Dag Charley,

Je zet inderdaad de steken voor de mouwen op de hulpdraad nadat alle meerderingen voor de raglan klaar zijn. Los daarvan brei je gewoon verder in patroon A.3 en aansluitend daarop in patroon A.4 verder op het achterpand. Het patroon loopt immers verder over het rugpand naar beneden.

Tracye 20.08.2019 - 03:57:

Row 17 in A6 starts with a space. What do I do there?

DROPS Design 20.08.2019 kl. 09:27:

Dear Tracye, at the end of row 16 in A.6, work the last stitch on previous round together with the first stitch on the round (= K2 tog = this stitch is now the last stitch on the round = the last stitch on last repeat) and the YO is now the first stitch of the round. Continue that way, ie work the last st on A.6 together with the next stitch on next repeat. On next round, the round starts with the YO on first repeat. Happy knitting!

María Jose 11.07.2019 - 16:27:

Hola! Estoy tejiendo la talla XL y en la explicación del ranglan : aum. 16 puntos no entiendo hasta cuántos puntos antes en cada marcador tengo que empezar a hacer el aumento.

Ida 08.07.2019 - 18:52:

Jag försöker, utan framgång, att förstå varför det står så här på oket: ”...3:e markören, sticka raglan, 0-1-1-4-9-12 rm, A.3 (= 43 m), sticka rm tills det återstår 1-1-2-2-2-2 m före 4:e markören”.\r\nDet här lämnar mig med 1m efter raglan vid 3:markören och 5m före raglan vid 4:e markören (eftersom 47m-1m = 46m, och inte de 43m som A.3 har). Hur kan det vara rätt utan att A.3 hamnar lite åt sidan istället för i mitten av ryggen??

Keico 27.05.2019 - 02:59:

Quick question, as I am working the increases and following A.2 and A.3 am I also increasing the amount of stitches that need to be knit prior to working A.2 and A.3?

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 11:53:

Dear Keico, the increased stitches are worked on either side of A.2/A.3, these stitches are worked in stocking stitch, A.2 will be always worked over the same 17 sts (place markers on either side of these sts so that A.2 will be lined up), and after some rows, A.3 will be worked over more stitches in width (see diagram). Happy knitting!

Krys 26.05.2019 - 03:37:

First I want to say this a beautiful pattern. I am trying to understand the raglan inc for a medium size. If the stitch marker is put on the first stitch of the round am I knitting that twisted? Or have I placed the stitch marker in the wrong spot? Also would you be able to break down how to work the raglan increase I’m not fully understanding it.

DROPS Design 26.05.2019 kl. 21:04:

Dear Krys, the first marker should be inserted to the last stitch of teh round, this will be one of the 4 raglan lines, and there will be 4 markers on the round, one at each raglan line, these stitches should be knitted twisted. There is a detailed explanation of teh raglan increases, it will help, if you mark the numbers relevant to the size you are knitting with a color. Happy Knitting!

Janna 20.05.2019 - 17:45:

Hej! Det hjälper inte om ni har mönster på massa olika språk om dessa mönster är fel och inte åtgärdas efter felet har påpekats. Skärpning, tack!

Janna 20.05.2019 - 17:42:

Jaha, det gick alltså inte skriva hela beskrivningen här om felet som ni har i ert mönster. Raglanbeskrivningar är fel och maskantal i början. Felet har påpekats tidigare också.

Janna 20.05.2019 - 17:36:

Hej! Det är otydligheter i den finska varianten av mönstret.

DROPS Design 21.05.2019 kl. 13:22:

Hei Janna. Takk for beskjed, vi skal få rettet i den finske oppskriften også. Kanskje du i mellomtiden kan benytte deg av den svenske eller engelske? God fornøyelse

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