DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 72.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Snow Princess

Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan, hood and bamboo pattern, worked top down in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 156-1
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-158
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-100-110-120-132 cm / 33"-36 1/4"-39½"-43½"-47 1/4"-52"
Full length: 71-74-77-80-83-85 cm / 28''-29 1/8''-30 3/8''-31½''-32¾''-33½''

Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
1100-1200-1350-1450-1600-1750 g color no 0100, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE (80 cm / 32'') 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), or 20 sts BAMBOO PATTERN= width 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS WOOD BUTTONS DUFFLE NO 520: 4 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans assembly free hood raglan relief sewn in sleeves stocking stitch top down v-neck

DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 72.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

BAMBOO PATTERN (back and forth on needle):
Row 1 (= RS): * 1 YO, K 2, pass YO over 2 K sts *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2 (= WS): P all sts.
Repeat rows 1 and 2.

BAMBOO PATTERN (in the round on double pointed needles):
Round 1: * 1 YO, K 2, pass YO over 2 K sts *, repeat from *-*.
Round 2: K all sts.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st before marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 tog.

RAGLAN:
Inc as follows at every marker:
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO = 2 sts inc. Repeat at the remaining markers in piece = 8 sts inc on needle.
On next row work YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth, top down on circular needle/double pointed needles.

HOOD:
Cast on 116 sts in all sizes (includes 2 edge sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, in each side of piece) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. Work 1 ridge in garter st. Then work BAMBOO PATTERN back and forth – see explanation above, with 2 edge sts in garter st in each side (continue the 2 edge sts in garter st in each side until finished measurements). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 38 cm / 15'', work as follows from RS: Pattern as before over the first 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts, garter st over the next 56-52-44-36-28-20 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-11-10-6-4-0 sts evenly, pattern over the remaining 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts = 104-105-106-110-112-116 sts. Continue back and forth until 3 ridges have been worked over the middle sts, AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row from RS inc 4-8-14-19-25-32 sts evenly over sts in garter st, and on 3rd row from RS inc 4-7-13-18-25-31 sts evenly over sts in garter st = 112-120-133-147-162-179 sts.
Now work an elevation in back of neck in garter st as follows from RS: Work until 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts remain, turn, work until 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts remain, turn, work until 40-42-46-50-55-58 sts remain, turn, work until 40-42-46-50-55-58 sts remain, turn, work until 50-52-56-60-65-68 sts remain, turn, work until 50-52-56-60-65-68 sts remain, turn, work until 55-57-61-65-70-73 sts remain, turn, work until 55-57-61-65-70-73 sts remain, turn and work the rest of row (pattern over the last 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts).

YOKE:
Now work pattern as before over the first 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts, 1 st in stockinette st, insert 1st marker here, stockinette st over the next 15 sts, insert 2nd marker here, stockinette st over the next 20-24-29-35-42-51 sts, insert 3rd marker here, stockinette st over the next 15 sts, insert 4th marker here, 1 st in stockinette st, pattern as before over the remaining 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts. Now start inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above! Repeat inc every row 1-1-4-6-8-10 times (i.e. from RS and WS), and every row from RS 21-22-20-19-18-17 times = 288-304-325-347-370-395 sts. NOTE: Work the new inc sts on back piece and sleeves in stockinette st, and work the first 8 new inc sts on front piece in bamboo pattern (i.e. inc 2 sts before there is enough sts to work bamboo pattern), then work the remaining inc sts in stockinette st.
Piece now measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾'' (measure from 1st row after edge in garter st at the back). Now work next row as follows: Work the first 52-55-60-65-70-75 sts, slip the next 61-63-65-67-69-71 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts), work the next 62-68-75-83-92-103 sts, slip the next 61-63-65-67-69-71 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts), work the remaining 52-55-60-65-70-75 sts. There are now 186-198-215-233-252-273 sts for body. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
Continue back and forth with pattern as before. Work the new sts under sleeve in stockinette st. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from marker under sleeves, inc 1 st on each side of each marker as follows: Work until 1 st before first marker, 1 YO, 2 sts in stockinette st, 1 YO, repeat at the other marker = 190-202-219-237-256-277 sts. Repeat inc every 3½-3½-3½-4-4½-6 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1½"-1 3/4"-2½" 11-12-12-12-11-8 more times = 234-250-267-285-300-309 sts. When piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-55 cm / 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20½"-21 1/4"-21½" from marker under sleeves, work 3 ridges. Loosely bind off.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Work 1 row from RS and cast on 10 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts) = 71-73-75-77-79-81 sts. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', beg dec on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2-2-2-1½-1½-1½ cm/3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½"-½" 12-13-13-14-14-15 more times = 45-45-47-47-49-49 sts. When piece measures 32-32-32-32-31-31 cm / 12½"-12½"-12½"-12½"-12 1/4"-12 1/4", inc 3 sts evenly in all sizes = 48-48-50-50-52-52 sts. Now work BAMBOO PATTERN in the round on double pointed needles - see explanation above. When piece measures 47-47-47-47-48-48 cm / 18½"-18½"-18½"-18½"-19"-19", dec 4 sts in all sizes = 44-44-46-46-48-48 sts. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST in the round on double pointed needles - see explanation above. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the holes under the sleeves. Sew tog hood st by st in cast-on edge. Sew on buttons on section with bamboo pattern on left front piece as follows: Sew 1 button approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' in from edge and 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm / 17"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4"-20"-21" from bind-off edge and 1 button 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm / 18½''-19¼''-20''-21''-21 5/8''-22½'' from bind-off edge. Repeat in the other side of section with bamboo pattern. Button through a hole in bamboo texture.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (185)

Mireille wrote:

Merci pour vos précisions sur l'étape de 38cm avec les diminutions puis augmentations. Pour les augmentations, je ne lis pas la même chose : est écrit de faire 8 augmentations (taille M) au-dessus des mailles point mousse => cela veut dire que c'est sur les mailles centrales tricotées en côte mousse (donc point mousse). Vous confirmez bien ? Belle journée.

26.04.2024 - 09:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mireille, quand vous avez vos 105 mailles, vous tricotez 6 rangs endroit (= 3 côtes mousse sur les mailles centrales tricotées auparavant en jersey). En même temps, vous augmentez 8 mailles au-dessus des mailles point mousse (= au milieu effectivement, pas de chaque côté) au 2ème rang + au 3ème rang sur l'endroit = 105+8+7=120 mailles. Bon tricot!

26.04.2024 - 11:56

Bonjour, Au niveau de la capuche, à 38cm, est indiqué de faire des diminutions. Je ne comprends pas où les faire. Est ce sur la partie point mousse (52m en M) ou sur les points fantaisie au-dessus des 32m (en M) restantes ? Merci pour votre aide ! Belle journée.

26.04.2024 - 09:36

Bonjour Mireille, vous diminuez 11 mailles dans les 52 mailles jersey (et tricotez les 32 premières/dernières mailles comme avant), vous diminuez ainsi: 116-11= 105 mailles. Bon tricot!

26.04.2024 - 11:54

16.04.2024 - 14:05

Bonjour Mireille, en taille M tricotez sur l'endroit ainsi: 32 m point mousse, 52 m jersey en dim. 11 mailes (= il reste ainsi 41 m jersey) et 32 m point mousse. Au rang suivant sur l'envers, tricotez 32 m end, 41 m jersey et 32 m end. Au rang suivant sur l'endroit, tricotez 32 m end en augmentant 4 m (= 36 m), 41 m end, 32 m end en augm. 4 m ( = 36 m) (8 augm au total). Tricotez sur l'envers 36 m end, 41 m env, 36 m end. Tricotez ensuite 36 m end en augm 3 m (= 39 m), 41 m end et 36 m end en augm. 4 m (40m) (7 augm. au total)= 120 m. Bon tricot!

16.04.2024 - 15:52

Bonjour, Je n'arrive pas à comprendre l'explication pour la côte mousse en allers/retours. Puisque tous les rangs se font à l'endroit pour le point mousse, je ne comprends pas la différence pour la côte mousse puisque est indiqué 2 rangs endroit... Pouvez-vous détailler la manière de faire ? Avez-vous une vidéo expliquant ce point côte mousse ? Je vous remercie de votre aide. Belle journée.

15.04.2024 - 20:22

Bonjour Mireille, effectivement, il faut 2 rangs endroit pour tricoter 1 côte mousse: 1 rang endroit sur l'endroit et 1 rang endroit sur l'envers - cf vidéo. Bon tricot!

16.04.2024 - 08:10

Izabela wrote:

Witam. Chciałam zapytać,ile oczek dodawać w co drugim rzędzie?Czy 18? Jeśli tak,to ile na rękaw,a ile na plecy?"Powt. dodawanie o. 1-1-4-6-8-10 razy w każdym rzędzie (tj. na prawej i na lewej stronie robótki) i 21-22-20-19-18-17 razy w każdym rzędzie na prawej stronie robótki"

10.10.2023 - 09:09

Witaj Izo, w tym wzorze na reglany dodajemy zawsze 8 oczek w rzędzie (czyli 1 oczko na przód, 2 oczka na rękaw, 2 oczka na tył, 2 oczka na drugi rękaw i 1 oczko na drugi przód). Pozdrawiamy!

10.10.2023 - 10:36

Ulrike wrote:

Hallo, ich habe ein Problem bei den Raglanzunahmen in Gr.M. In der Anleitung heißt es, 24 M glatt rechts und wären nach den Zunahmen laut Anleitung bei 168. ich komme aber auf 170. Meine Rechnung: 23x2=46+24=170. Wo liegt mein Fehler? Oder liegt der Fehler in der Anleitung? Danke schon mal. Freundliche Grüße Ulrike

08.03.2023 - 10:45

Ulrike answered:

Hallo nochmal. Ich habe meinen Fehler gefunden. 2 Maschen gehen ja weg wegen den Raglanärmeln. Liebe Grüße Ulrike

08.03.2023 - 10:58

Karen Coates wrote:

Worst pattern ever !!!! Restarted 4 times !!! My sister is an expert knitter and found this was the worst pattern ever !!!

29.01.2023 - 07:48

Jennifer Winkler wrote:

I am working on the increases in the hood and was wondering if you can substitute make one right (or left) for the yarn overs? I am working on the XXXL for my mom and in the 20 garter stitches it says in the 2nd row to increase evenly 32 stitches, this would require two yarn over increases in a row, creating a hole no matter how you twist it. Thanks

22.09.2022 - 02:35

Dear Mrs Winkler, you can for sure use your favorite technique to increase - this lesson explains how to increase evenly, this might help you too. Happy knitting!

22.09.2022 - 09:49

Jan wrote:

Hello, Why do you not show the photo of the back of the garment? I think that the look of the back of a design is as important as the front. In this particular design I would love to know what the hood looks like from the back - perhaps you would include a photo in your reply. Best wishes, Jan

28.04.2022 - 21:29

Dear Jan, we have sadly no pictures of the back piece and we don't have the jacket anymore. But you could maybe see the back piece on one of the several projects made by knitters and shown in Ravelry. Happy knitting!

29.04.2022 - 08:49

Sandra Lowes wrote:

Is there a email address where I could send in a picture to see if anyone there knows how to do this stitch

24.12.2021 - 02:04

Dear Sandra, you could try our Facebook group, where you can add pictures and share them with other members to get help from them.

24.12.2021 - 18:37

Snow Princess

Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan, hood and bamboo pattern, worked top down in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a sweater top down

How to read a schematic drawing

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure your tension/gauge

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knitt stitches

How to purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Comments / Questions (185)

Snow Princess

Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan, hood and bamboo pattern, worked top down in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

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	DROPS Nepal uni colour 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca	3.30 $ /50g	Order
	DROPS Nepal mix 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca	3.45 $ /50g	Order

	DROPS Nepal uni colour 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca 3.30 $ /50g Order
	DROPS Nepal mix 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca 3.45 $ /50g Order