DROPS / 156 / 1

Snow Princess by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan, hood and bamboo pattern, worked top down in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ne-158
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-100-110-120-132 cm / 33"-36 1/4"-39½"-43½"-47 1/4"-52"
Full length: 71-74-77-80-83-85 cm / 28''-29 1/8''-30 3/8''-31½''-32¾''-33½''

Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
1100-1200-1350-1450-1600-1750 g color no 0100, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE (80 cm / 32'') 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), or 20 sts BAMBOO PATTERN= width 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS WOOD BUTTONS DUFFLE NO 520: 4 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.85 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 60.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

BAMBOO PATTERN (back and forth on needle):
Row 1 (= RS): * 1 YO, K 2, pass YO over 2 K sts *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2 (= WS): P all sts.
Repeat rows 1 and 2.

BAMBOO PATTERN (in the round on double pointed needles):
Round 1: * 1 YO, K 2, pass YO over 2 K sts *, repeat from *-*.
Round 2: K all sts.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st before marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 tog.

RAGLAN:
Inc as follows at every marker:
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO = 2 sts inc. Repeat at the remaining markers in piece = 8 sts inc on needle.
On next row work YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth, top down on circular needle/double pointed needles.

HOOD:
Cast on 116 sts in all sizes (includes 2 edge sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, in each side of piece) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. Work 1 ridge in garter st. Then work BAMBOO PATTERN back and forth – see explanation above, with 2 edge sts in garter st in each side (continue the 2 edge sts in garter st in each side until finished measurements). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 38 cm / 15'', work as follows from RS: Pattern as before over the first 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts, garter st over the next 56-52-44-36-28-20 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-11-10-6-4-0 sts evenly, pattern over the remaining 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts = 104-105-106-110-112-116 sts. Continue back and forth until 3 ridges have been worked over the middle sts, AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row from RS inc 4-8-14-19-25-32 sts evenly over sts in garter st, and on 3rd row from RS inc 4-7-13-18-25-31 sts evenly over sts in garter st = 112-120-133-147-162-179 sts.
Now work an elevation in back of neck in garter st as follows from RS: Work until 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts remain, turn, work until 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts remain, turn, work until 40-42-46-50-55-58 sts remain, turn, work until 40-42-46-50-55-58 sts remain, turn, work until 50-52-56-60-65-68 sts remain, turn, work until 50-52-56-60-65-68 sts remain, turn, work until 55-57-61-65-70-73 sts remain, turn, work until 55-57-61-65-70-73 sts remain, turn and work the rest of row (pattern over the last 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts).

YOKE:
Now work pattern as before over the first 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts, 1 st in stockinette st, insert 1st marker here, stockinette st over the next 15 sts, insert 2nd marker here, stockinette st over the next 20-24-29-35-42-51 sts, insert 3rd marker here, stockinette st over the next 15 sts, insert 4th marker here, 1 st in stockinette st, pattern as before over the remaining 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts. Now start inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above! Repeat inc every row 1-1-4-6-8-10 times (i.e. from RS and WS), and every row from RS 21-22-20-19-18-17 times = 288-304-325-347-370-395 sts. NOTE: Work the new inc sts on back piece and sleeves in stockinette st, and work the first 8 new inc sts on front piece in bamboo pattern (i.e. inc 2 sts before there is enough sts to work bamboo pattern), then work the remaining inc sts in stockinette st.
Piece now measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾'' (measure from 1st row after edge in garter st at the back). Now work next row as follows: Work the first 52-55-60-65-70-75 sts, slip the next 61-63-65-67-69-71 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts), work the next 62-68-75-83-92-103 sts, slip the next 61-63-65-67-69-71 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts), work the remaining 52-55-60-65-70-75 sts. There are now 186-198-215-233-252-273 sts for body. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
Continue back and forth with pattern as before. Work the new sts under sleeve in stockinette st. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from marker under sleeves, inc 1 st on each side of each marker as follows: Work until 1 st before first marker, 1 YO, 2 sts in stockinette st, 1 YO, repeat at the other marker = 190-202-219-237-256-277 sts. Repeat inc every 3½-3½-3½-4-4½-6 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1½"-1 3/4"-2½" 11-12-12-12-11-8 more times = 234-250-267-285-300-309 sts. When piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-55 cm / 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20½"-21 1/4"-21½" from marker under sleeves, work 3 ridges. Loosely bind off.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Work 1 row from RS and cast on 10 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts) = 71-73-75-77-79-81 sts. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', beg dec on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2-2-2-1½-1½-1½ cm/3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½"-½" 12-13-13-14-14-15 more times = 45-45-47-47-49-49 sts. When piece measures 32-32-32-32-31-31 cm / 12½"-12½"-12½"-12½"-12 1/4"-12 1/4", inc 3 sts evenly in all sizes = 48-48-50-50-52-52 sts. Now work BAMBOO PATTERN in the round on double pointed needles - see explanation above. When piece measures 47-47-47-47-48-48 cm / 18½"-18½"-18½"-18½"-19"-19", dec 4 sts in all sizes = 44-44-46-46-48-48 sts. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST in the round on double pointed needles - see explanation above. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the holes under the sleeves. Sew tog hood st by st in cast-on edge. Sew on buttons on section with bamboo pattern on left front piece as follows: Sew 1 button approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' in from edge and 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm / 17"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4"-20"-21" from bind-off edge and 1 button 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm / 18½''-19¼''-20''-21''-21 5/8''-22½'' from bind-off edge. Repeat in the other side of section with bamboo pattern. Button through a hole in bamboo texture.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 156-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (162)

Elizabeth Moore 05.06.2019 - 19:17:

Hi. I am interested in making a winter coat using this pattern. How warm is the wool? Can I add a liner to give it extra warmth?

DROPS Design 06.06.2019 kl. 09:41:

Dear Mrs Moore, you will read more about this yarn here - depending on how warm you'd like the coat to be, you might have to addd a liner - please contact your DROPS store - even per mail or telephone - for any assistance choosing the yarn. Happy knitting!

Mitsuko Fredrickson 28.05.2019 - 21:21:

Here I am again on Raglan increase and incorporating some increase into bamboo stitches. You told me previously ; *work the first 8 new inc stitches on front piece in bamboo pattern *(i.e. inc 2 stitches before there is enough stitches to work bamboo pattern), then work the remaining inc stitches in stocking st. Happy Knitting! *Does this mean wait for 8 inc. sts before adding 4 bamboo stitches on the first marker? Or add one bamboo sts (2sts) each side?

DROPS Design 29.05.2019 kl. 08:39:

Dear Mrs Fredrickson, bamboo pattern is a 2 stitches repeat, work the first 1st increased in stocking st (= P from WS and K from RS), purl the 2nd increased from WS, and on next row work these 2 new sts in bamboo pattern (while continuing increasing). When the first 8 sts increased on raglan are worked in bamboo pattern, work the next increased in stocking stitch. Happy knitting!

Mitsuko F 26.05.2019 - 23:26:

Start inc. for Raglan and incorporating in bamboo stitch; Do I start bamboo st. only at the first increase marker? That means 2st bamboo and also at the last increase marker. Your pattern indicate to "Work the first 8 inc. its on front piece in bamboo sts. " Does this mean I wait for 4 inc.sts before starting on bamboo its on each side? Thanks always for your prompt reply. Mitsuko

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 01:54:

Dear Mitsuko, the 2 stitches at the edges should be knitted with garter stitch, and when you do the increases, you should work the new inc sts on back piece and sleeves in stocking st, and work the first 8 new inc sts on front piece in bamboo pattern (i.e. inc 2 sts before there is enough sts to work bamboo pattern), then work the remaining inc sts in stocking st. Happy Knitting!

Mitsuko Fredrickson 23.05.2019 - 23:28:

I would really like to see the stitches in the back of the coat. How it looks like and how much bamboo stitch and stockinette stitch show.

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 02:04:

Dear Mitsuko, we do not have the pictures you are asking for, however, I would suggest you look through the Ravelry page for this pattern, and see the many pieces that were knitted using this pattern. There you can see it on different sized and shaped bodies, and from different angles as well. Happy Knitting!

Mitsuko Fredrickson 23.05.2019 - 23:16:

After you finish the elevation on back of a neck, do you end up with right side of the garment? That means I start the yoke row with wrong side, correct? If not I must be making something wrong with the elevation turn. But I cannot figure out ....

DROPS Design 24.05.2019 kl. 08:00:

Dear Mrs Fredrickson, correct, last row worked on short rows for elevation is worked from RS, turn and work next row from WS over all stitches at the same time insert markers (see at the beg of YOKE). Happy knitting!

Mitsuko Fredrickson 05.05.2019 - 02:08:

For the hood, after casting on do I knit garter stitch all the way across 116 stitches? Or do I start the bamboo stitch right after casting on with two ridge stitches on both side?

DROPS Design 05.05.2019 kl. 08:50:

Hello Mitsuko. For the hood, after casting on sts, you work two rows in garter stitch and then you start with the bamboo stitch. Happy knitting!

Mitsuko 24.04.2019 - 22:00:

The sizing on the finished bust measurement and th diagram with the sizes don't match. For instance the small 33" opposed to the diagram 42" Will someone clarify this?

DROPS Design 25.04.2019 kl. 09:03:

Dear Mitsuko, measurements in chart are in cm - 42 cm measured flat are 84 cm circumference = 33 inches. Read more about sizing and convert into inches here. Happy knitting!

Martine 18.02.2019 - 09:03:

Bonjour ,petite question pour le raglan les points de bambous se construisent sur plusieurs lignes jusqu\\\'à ce qu\\\'on arrive à huit ?? N\\\'auriez vous pas une petite vidéo comme pour les augmentations et la rehausse ? À combien de dessins plus ou moins doit on arriver pour un modèle M Merci belle journée à vous

DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 10:51:

Bonjour Martine, cette vidéo montre comment tricoter la réhausse. qui se tricote au point mousse, pas au point de bambou. Les 2 mailles du raglan se tricotent en jersey, vous tricotez les augmentations au point de bambou quand vous en avez suffisamment (= il faut 2 mailles pour tricoter 1 motif entier). Bon tricot!

Lena Mörk 11.02.2019 - 18:57:

Mönster 156-1 Kanten längst ner rullar sig.. Vad göra??? Lena

DROPS Design 13.02.2019 kl. 13:27:

Hei Lena. Siden du har 2 kantmasker i riller og så strukturstrikk skal det ikke rulle seg så mye. Du kan prøve å dampe plagget lett når du er ferdig, hvis det likevel har rullet seg. God fornøyelse

Jada 02.02.2019 - 22:50:

Can you share the measurements of Medium vs Large, etc.? I'm unsure which would fit right.

DROPS Design 03.02.2019 kl. 12:08:

Hi Jada, The measurements for the different sizes are given on a sketch at the bottom of the pattern. Happy knitting!

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