DROPS Baby / 25 / 36

Mrs. Bunny by DROPS Design

Knitted bunny toy with pants, jumper and bow in DROPS BabyMerino

Tags: animals, toys,
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-065-by
Yarn group A
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Height: approx. 30 cm / 12’’ (includes ears)

Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g color no 02, off white
50 g color no 07, pink
50 g color no 23, light beige
50 g color no 05, light pink
And use: some left-over black for eyes, mouth and snout.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4’’ x 4’’ (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size C (3mm) - for lace on pants.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS LIGHT NO 503: 1 piece

ACCESSORIES: Some poly stuffing for filling

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
MAGIC CIRCLE:
To avoid hole in the middle beg with this technique:
Hold yarn end in the left hand and make a loop around left index finger (from left to right). Hold the loop with left thumb and index finger. Insert needle through loop, get yarn from ball (i.e. place yarn 1 time over needle from you), pull yarn back through loop, 1 YO (now place yarn from the back and towards you) and pull YO through sts on needle, * insert needle through loop, 1 YO (place yarn from the back and towards you), pull YO through loop, 1 YO (from the back and towards you) and pull YO through outermost st on right needle (i.e. the last st made) *, repeat from *-* until there are 6 sts on needle. Then work as explained in pattern – AT THE SAME TIME pull yarn end so that loop is tighten tog and the hole disappears.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round/row work YO twisted to avoid holes.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

STRIPES:
* 4 rounds/rows light pink, 4 rounds/rows off white *, repeat from *-*.
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HEAD:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles from snout and back.
Make a MAGIC CIRCLE with light beige - see explanation above = 6 sts on needle. Distribute sts on 3 double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 (work with fourth needle) and work in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: K all sts.
ROUND 2: * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 sts.
ROUND 3: K all sts (always K YOs twisted to avoid holes).
ROUND 4: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 sts.
ROUND 5: K all sts.
ROUND 6: * K 3, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sts.
ROUND 7: K all sts.
ROUND 8: * K 4, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 sts.
ROUND 9: K all sts.
ROUND 10: * K 5, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sts.
ROUND 11-12: K all sts = 36 sts.
Insert 1 marker after the first 3 sts at beg of round and 1 marker after another 6 sts. Then inc 1 st inside the 2 markers - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Repeat inc every other round 2 more times (= 3 inc in total in each side) = 42 sts.
ROUND 18-19: K all sts = 42 sts.
ROUND 20: * K 5, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sts.
ROUND 21: K all sts.
ROUND 22: * K 4, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 sts.
ROUND 23: K all sts.
Continue dec like this on every other round (i.e. on every round with dec work 1 st less before working 2 sts tog = 6 sts dec per round) until 12 sts remain on needle, cut the yarn and pull it through sts on needle (without tightening).
Embroider eyes, mouth and snout with black, fill the head with poly stuffing, tighten tog sts and fasten (= mid back of head).

EAR:
Worked in the round from bottom up.
Cast on 8 sts with light beige and distribute sts on 2 double pointed needles (work with third needle).
ROUND 1-2: K all sts.
ROUND 3: * K 1, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 12 sts on needle.
ROUND 4: K all sts (always K YOs twisted to avoid holes).
ROUND 5: * K 1, 1 YO, K 4, 1 YO, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 16 sts on needle.
ROUND 6: K all sts.
ROUND 7: * K 1, 1 YO, K 6, 1 YO, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 20 sts on needle.
Then work in stockinette st in the round until piece measures approx. 5½ cm / 2¼”. Then dec as follows:
ROUND 1: * Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 6, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 16 sts.
ROUND 2: K all sts.
ROUND 3: * Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 4, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 12 sts.
ROUND 4: K all sts.
Continue dec like this every other round until 4 sts remain on needle (i.e. on every round with dec work 2 sts less between dec in each side). On next round K2 tog around.
Cut the yarn and pull it through sts, tighten tog and fasten.
Fold each side at the bottom of ear towards the middle so that a pleat is formed in the mid of ear. Sew tog at the bottom with a couple of stitches and fasten ear on head. Work another ear the same way.

BODY:
Worked in the round, top down.
Cast on 16 sts with light beige and distribute sts on 4 double pointed needles (work with fifth needle).
ROUND 1-2: K all sts.
ROUND 3: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sts.
ROUND 4: K all sts (always K YOs twisted to avoid holes).
ROUND 5: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sts.
ROUND 6: K all sts.
ROUND 7: * K 3, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 sts.
Then work in stockinette st in the round until piece measures 5½ cm / 2¼”. Switch to pink and K 1 round and P 1 round. Then work 8 rounds in stockinette st.
Continue to dec as follows:
ROUND 1: * K 6, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 42 sts.
ROUND 21: K all sts.
ROUND 22: * K 5, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sts.
ROUND 23: K all sts.
Continue dec like this on every other round (i.e. on every round with dec work 1 st less before working 2 sts tog = 6 sts dec per round) until 12 sts remain on needle, cut the yarn and pull it through sts on needle (without tightening). Fill body with poly stuffing, tighten tog sts on yarn and fasten. Sew head to body (pink should be down (= pants)).

LEG:
Worked back and forth, bottom up.
Cast on 30 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with light beige. Work in stockinette st back and forth for 3 cm / 1’’. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see explanation above, K 10, K2 tog 4 times, K 10 and 1 edge st in garter st = 26 sts.
ROW 2 (= WS): 1 edge st in garter st, P 5, bind off the next 14 sts, P 5 and 1 edge st in garter st = 6 sts remain in each side.
ROW 3 (= RS): Work the first 6 sts on needle and then the next 6 sts on needle (the 14 bind off sts form a hole in the mid of piece).
Then work in stockinette st back and forth over the 12 sts with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until leg measures approx. 8 cm / 3’’. Switch to pink, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1 = 23 sts.
ROW 2 (= WS): P but K edge sts in each side and P YOs twisted to avoid holes.
ROW 3: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1 = 34 sts.
Then work in stockinette st back and forth with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until leg measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾’’, bind off.
Sew opening mid on top of foot with grafting/kitchener sts.
Sew foot tog mid under and continue up along mid back - sew in front loop of outermost st. Fill leg with some poly stuffing.
Baste a strand up and down through bind-off edge at the top of leg (on the pink). Tighten tog to make it baggy.
Work another leg the same way and fasten both legs on body.

LACE EDGE
Crochet a lace edge on hook size 3 mm / C with pink at the bottom around pants on each leg as follows (crochet in P sts): 1 sc in first st, * ch 4, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 sc in next P st on pants *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. Fasten off.

ARM:
Worked back and forth on double pointed needles, top down.
Cast on 10 sts with light beige and work in stockinette st back and forth with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until arm measures 9 cm / 3½’’.
Cut the yarn (make it long enough to use for sewing the arm tog), pull yarn through sts on needle (= at the bottom of arm), tighten tog and then sew arm tog in front loop of outermost st. Fill arm with poly stuffing and fasten at the top of body by neck (below the head).
Work another arm the same way and fasten in the opposite side.

JUMPER:
Piece is worked in the round on double pointed needles up to armhole, then work back and forth on needle.

BODY:
Cast on 60 sts with light pink. P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Then work in stockinette st and STRIPES - see explanation above.
When piece measures approx. 9 cm / 3½’’ – adjust so that last round in a stripe with light pink remains, work next round as follows: bind off 6 sts for armhole, work 24 sts, bind off the next 6 sts for armhole and work the last 24 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 20 sts with light pink. K 1 round and P 1 round. Then work in stockinette st and STRIPES in the round.
When 11 rounds with stripes have been worked (i.e. last round in a stripe with light pink remains), work next round as follows: bind off 6 sts for armhole and work the remaining 14 sts.
Cut the yarn, put piece aside and Make another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same needle as body where armholes were bind off (without working them first) = 76 sts on needle. Begin round from RS mid back on body and continue stripes as follows (1st round = off white):
ROUND 1: 1 edge st in garter st, K 9, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 10 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 20 (= front), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 10 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 9 and 1 edge st in garter st = 68 sts.
Then work back and forth from mid back.
ROW 2 (= WS): P but work edge sts in garter st.
ROW 3 (= RS): 1 edge st in garter st, K 8, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 8 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 18 (= front), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 8 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 8 and 1 edge st in garter st = 60 sts.
ROW 4 (= WS): P but work edge sts in garter st.
ROW 5 (= RS): Switch to light pink and work 1 edge st in garter st, K 7, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 6 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 16 (= front), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 6 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 7 and 1 edge st in garter st = 52 sts.
ROW 6 (= WS): P but work edge sts in garter st.
ROW 7 (= RS): 1 edge st in garter st, K 6, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 4 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 14 (= front), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 4 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 6 and 1 edge st in garter st = 44 sts.
ROW 8 (= WS): P but work edge sts in garter st.
Switch to off white and work next row as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 1, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with 1 edge st in garter st = 30 sts. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS before binding off with K from RS. Fasten off.

BOW:
Cast on 5 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with pink. Work in garter st back and forth for 8 cm / 3’’, bind off.
Sew short sides tog in outer loop of edge sts to form a ring.
Fasten off.
Find a new strand, wind it a couple of times around the middle of bow and fasten bow in the neck on jumper.
Put the jumper on the bunny and fasten the button through both layers at the top of neck at the back.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

Solis 01.04.2019 - 22:05:

Ska börja på örat. Hur stickar man runt på 2 stickor? Får inte ihop det.

DROPS Design 05.04.2019 kl. 10:26:

Hej. Du stickar på samma sätt som när du har fler stickor. och stickar runt. Du har i detta fall maskorna på två stickor och stickar med en tredje. Lycka till!

Tanja 28.03.2019 - 09:51:

Wo kann ich das Foto des nachgemachten Hasen posten?

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 09:36:

Liebe Tanja, gerne können Sie das Foto auf unserem Facebook posten, und auch in unserem DROPS Workshop :)

Marion Böhm 07.03.2018 - 13:38:

Stellt der Bereich zwischen den Markierungen am Kopf eine bestimmte Stelle dar?

DROPS Design 07.03.2018 kl. 15:53:

Liebe Frau Böhm, 2 Markierungen werden eingesetzt, und danach nach 1. und vor 2. Markierung zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Marion Böhm 03.03.2018 - 16:54:

Stellt der Bereich zwischen den Markierungen am Kopf eine bestimmte Stelle dar???

Marion Böhm 08.02.2018 - 17:38:

Beim Übergang zu rosa am Bein soll man nach der ersten Reihe 23 Maschen auf der Nadel haben. Das geht jedoch nicht auf, da das Bein aus "zwei" Teilen besteht und 23 nicht durch 2 teilbar ist. Zudem stricke ich den Bär in Nadelstärke 4, da die Beine ansonsten viel zu dünn würden und keinesfalls die Stärke des Fotos erreichen würden.

DROPS Design 09.02.2018 kl. 09:17:

Liebe Frau Böhm, bei der 3. Reihe werden Sie (2 re, 1 Umschlag) stricken = 34 M am Ende der 3. Reihe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Cindy Marie Vorkinn 12.06.2017 - 15:07:

Glem det spørsmålet, oppdaget feilen selv 😊

Cindy Marie Vorkinn 12.06.2017 - 15:01:

Hei, jeg driver for øyeblikket med benet til kaninen, men skjønner ikke helt hva jeg skal gjøre med foten? Har felt av de 14 maskene så de danner et hull eller løkke eller hva dere vil kalle det, men står ikke noe mer om hva man gjør med dette hullet? Syr jeg det sammen så blir det jo verdens minste fot? 🙈

DROPS Design 12.06.2017 kl. 16:37:

Hei Cindy Marie, Benet strikkes nedenfra og opp så du burde ha begynt med foten of avslutte på toppen av benet. De 14 felte maskene er hullet i benet hvor du skal fylle benet med vatt. Så da fortsetter du oppover benet og syr sammen hullet etter du har fylt benet. Håper dette hjelper, Med vennlig hilsen, Deirdre

Asiya Khakimova 18.01.2017 - 18:39:

When working a head on 13th round there are 2 markers: 1st after 3 sts and 2nd after 9 sts? Am I right? They are not evenly distributed. And where should be dec sts? after 1st and before 2nd marker?

DROPS Design 19.01.2017 kl. 08:45:

Dear Mrs Khakimova, correct, there should be 6 sts between both markers, you then inc after 1st marker and before 2nd marker (= 2 sts inc) every ther round a total of 3 times. These inc are done to give the correct shape to the head. Happy knitting

Joanne Lurie 19.12.2016 - 13:54:

To give myself some light entertainment as I plug along with the Richard cardi (husband is very tall) I would like to knit a baby garment. The pattern is calling for a two threads used together 10 x 10 cm swatch that gives 23 stitches by 30 rows on 5.0 mm needles. Would Baby Merino or Baby Alpaca silk approximate this swatch if used double?

DROPS Design 19.12.2016 kl. 16:21:

Dear Mrs Lurie, this pattern (bunny with clothes) is worked with 1 strand Baby Merino and needle size 3 mm for a tension of 23 sts x 30 rows = 10 x 10 cm. Baby Alpaca Silk also belongs to yarn group A and has same tension, read more about alternatives here. Happy knitting!

Lisi 22.07.2015 - 18:39:

Kommen die Augen in die beiden kleinen Vertiefungen, die sich beim stricken ergeben haben? Gibt es noch eine andere Ansicht vom Kopf, auf der man erkennkann wo die Ohren hinkommen? Danke

DROPS Design 28.07.2015 kl. 14:08:

Leider haben wir keine weiteren Fotos. Die Ohren können Sie einfach zuerst mit Stecknadeln feststecken und Sie an den Stellen festnähen, die Ihnen am besten gefallen. Für die Augen gilt das Gleiche - nehmen Sie zwei Stecknadeln zum Ausprobieren, welche Augenposition Ihnen am meisten zusagt.

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