Mrs. Bunny by DROPS Design
Knitted bunny toy with pants, jumper and bow in DROPS BabyMerino
DROPS Baby 25-36
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-065-by
Yarn group A
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Height: approx. 30 cm / 12’’ (includes ears)
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g color no 02, off white
50 g color no 07, pink
50 g color no 23, light beige
50 g color no 05, light pink
And use: some left-over black for eyes, mouth and snout.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4’’ x 4’’ (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size C (3mm) - for lace on pants.
DROPS WOOD BUTTONS LIGHT NO 503: 1 piece
ACCESSORIES: Some poly stuffing for filling
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-065-by
Yarn group A
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Height: approx. 30 cm / 12’’ (includes ears)
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g color no 02, off white
50 g color no 07, pink
50 g color no 23, light beige
50 g color no 05, light pink
And use: some left-over black for eyes, mouth and snout.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4’’ x 4’’ (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size C (3mm) - for lace on pants.
DROPS WOOD BUTTONS LIGHT NO 503: 1 piece
ACCESSORIES: Some poly stuffing for filling
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in British English, please click here.
MAGIC CIRCLE:
To avoid hole in the middle beg with this technique:
Hold yarn end in the left hand and make a loop around left index finger (from left to right). Hold the loop with left thumb and index finger. Insert needle through loop, get yarn from ball (i.e. place yarn 1 time over needle from you), pull yarn back through loop, 1 YO (now place yarn from the back and towards you) and pull YO through sts on needle, * insert needle through loop, 1 YO (place yarn from the back and towards you), pull YO through loop, 1 YO (from the back and towards you) and pull YO through outermost st on right needle (i.e. the last st made) *, repeat from *-* until there are 6 sts on needle. Then work as explained in pattern – AT THE SAME TIME pull yarn end so that loop is tighten tog and the hole disappears.
INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round/row work YO twisted to avoid holes.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.
STRIPES:
* 4 rounds/rows light pink, 4 rounds/rows off white *, repeat from *-*.
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HEAD:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles from snout and back.
Make a MAGIC CIRCLE with light beige - see explanation above = 6 sts on needle. Distribute sts on 3 double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 (work with fourth needle) and work in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: K all sts.
ROUND 2: * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 sts.
ROUND 3: K all sts (always K YOs twisted to avoid holes).
ROUND 4: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 sts.
ROUND 5: K all sts.
ROUND 6: * K 3, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sts.
ROUND 7: K all sts.
ROUND 8: * K 4, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 sts.
ROUND 9: K all sts.
ROUND 10: * K 5, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sts.
ROUND 11-12: K all sts = 36 sts.
Insert 1 marker after the first 3 sts at beg of round and 1 marker after another 6 sts. Then inc 1 st inside the 2 markers - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Repeat inc every other round 2 more times (= 3 inc in total in each side) = 42 sts.
ROUND 18-19: K all sts = 42 sts.
ROUND 20: * K 5, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sts.
ROUND 21: K all sts.
ROUND 22: * K 4, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 sts.
ROUND 23: K all sts.
Continue dec like this on every other round (i.e. on every round with dec work 1 st less before working 2 sts tog = 6 sts dec per round) until 12 sts remain on needle, cut the yarn and pull it through sts on needle (without tightening).
Embroider eyes, mouth and snout with black, fill the head with poly stuffing, tighten tog sts and fasten (= mid back of head).
EAR:
Worked in the round from bottom up.
Cast on 8 sts with light beige and distribute sts on 2 double pointed needles (work with third needle).
ROUND 1-2: K all sts.
ROUND 3: * K 1, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 12 sts on needle.
ROUND 4: K all sts (always K YOs twisted to avoid holes).
ROUND 5: * K 1, 1 YO, K 4, 1 YO, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 16 sts on needle.
ROUND 6: K all sts.
ROUND 7: * K 1, 1 YO, K 6, 1 YO, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 20 sts on needle.
Then work in stockinette st in the round until piece measures approx. 5½ cm / 2¼”. Then dec as follows:
ROUND 1: * Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 6, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 16 sts.
ROUND 2: K all sts.
ROUND 3: * Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 4, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 12 sts.
ROUND 4: K all sts.
Continue dec like this every other round until 4 sts remain on needle (i.e. on every round with dec work 2 sts less between dec in each side). On next round K2 tog around.
Cut the yarn and pull it through sts, tighten tog and fasten.
Fold each side at the bottom of ear towards the middle so that a pleat is formed in the mid of ear. Sew tog at the bottom with a couple of stitches and fasten ear on head. Work another ear the same way.
BODY:
Worked in the round, top down.
Cast on 16 sts with light beige and distribute sts on 4 double pointed needles (work with fifth needle).
ROUND 1-2: K all sts.
ROUND 3: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sts.
ROUND 4: K all sts (always K YOs twisted to avoid holes).
ROUND 5: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sts.
ROUND 6: K all sts.
ROUND 7: * K 3, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 sts.
Then work in stockinette st in the round until piece measures 5½ cm / 2¼”. Switch to pink and K 1 round and P 1 round. Then work 8 rounds in stockinette st.
Continue to dec as follows:
ROUND 1: * K 6, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 42 sts.
ROUND 21: K all sts.
ROUND 22: * K 5, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sts.
ROUND 23: K all sts.
Continue dec like this on every other round (i.e. on every round with dec work 1 st less before working 2 sts tog = 6 sts dec per round) until 12 sts remain on needle, cut the yarn and pull it through sts on needle (without tightening). Fill body with poly stuffing, tighten tog sts on yarn and fasten. Sew head to body (pink should be down (= pants)).
LEG:
Worked back and forth, bottom up.
Cast on 30 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with light beige. Work in stockinette st back and forth for 3 cm / 1’’. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see explanation above, K 10, K2 tog 4 times, K 10 and 1 edge st in garter st = 26 sts.
ROW 2 (= WS): 1 edge st in garter st, P 5, bind off the next 14 sts, P 5 and 1 edge st in garter st = 6 sts remain in each side.
ROW 3 (= RS): Work the first 6 sts on needle and then the next 6 sts on needle (the 14 bind off sts form a hole in the mid of piece).
Then work in stockinette st back and forth over the 12 sts with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until leg measures approx. 8 cm / 3’’. Switch to pink, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1 = 23 sts.
ROW 2 (= WS): P but K edge sts in each side and P YOs twisted to avoid holes.
ROW 3: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1 = 34 sts.
Then work in stockinette st back and forth with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until leg measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾’’, bind off.
Sew opening mid on top of foot with grafting/kitchener sts.
Sew foot tog mid under and continue up along mid back - sew in front loop of outermost st. Fill leg with some poly stuffing.
Baste a strand up and down through bind-off edge at the top of leg (on the pink). Tighten tog to make it baggy.
Work another leg the same way and fasten both legs on body.
LACE EDGE
Crochet a lace edge on hook size 3 mm / C with pink at the bottom around pants on each leg as follows (crochet in P sts): 1 sc in first st, * ch 4, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 sc in next P st on pants *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. Fasten off.
ARM:
Worked back and forth on double pointed needles, top down.
Cast on 10 sts with light beige and work in stockinette st back and forth with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until arm measures 9 cm / 3½’’.
Cut the yarn (make it long enough to use for sewing the arm tog), pull yarn through sts on needle (= at the bottom of arm), tighten tog and then sew arm tog in front loop of outermost st. Fill arm with poly stuffing and fasten at the top of body by neck (below the head).
Work another arm the same way and fasten in the opposite side.
JUMPER:
Piece is worked in the round on double pointed needles up to armhole, then work back and forth on needle.
BODY:
Cast on 60 sts with light pink. P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Then work in stockinette st and STRIPES - see explanation above.
When piece measures approx. 9 cm / 3½’’ – adjust so that last round in a stripe with light pink remains, work next round as follows: bind off 6 sts for armhole, work 24 sts, bind off the next 6 sts for armhole and work the last 24 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.
SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 20 sts with light pink. K 1 round and P 1 round. Then work in stockinette st and STRIPES in the round.
When 11 rounds with stripes have been worked (i.e. last round in a stripe with light pink remains), work next round as follows: bind off 6 sts for armhole and work the remaining 14 sts.
Cut the yarn, put piece aside and Make another sleeve.
YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same needle as body where armholes were bind off (without working them first) = 76 sts on needle. Begin round from RS mid back on body and continue stripes as follows (1st round = off white):
ROUND 1: 1 edge st in garter st, K 9, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 10 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 20 (= front), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 10 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 9 and 1 edge st in garter st = 68 sts.
Then work back and forth from mid back.
ROW 2 (= WS): P but work edge sts in garter st.
ROW 3 (= RS): 1 edge st in garter st, K 8, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 8 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 18 (= front), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 8 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 8 and 1 edge st in garter st = 60 sts.
ROW 4 (= WS): P but work edge sts in garter st.
ROW 5 (= RS): Switch to light pink and work 1 edge st in garter st, K 7, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 6 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 16 (= front), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 6 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 7 and 1 edge st in garter st = 52 sts.
ROW 6 (= WS): P but work edge sts in garter st.
ROW 7 (= RS): 1 edge st in garter st, K 6, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 4 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 14 (= front), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 4 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 6 and 1 edge st in garter st = 44 sts.
ROW 8 (= WS): P but work edge sts in garter st.
Switch to off white and work next row as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 1, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with 1 edge st in garter st = 30 sts. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS before binding off with K from RS. Fasten off.
BOW:
Cast on 5 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with pink. Work in garter st back and forth for 8 cm / 3’’, bind off.
Sew short sides tog in outer loop of edge sts to form a ring.
Fasten off.
Find a new strand, wind it a couple of times around the middle of bow and fasten bow in the neck on jumper.
Put the jumper on the bunny and fasten the button through both layers at the top of neck at the back.
To avoid hole in the middle beg with this technique:
Hold yarn end in the left hand and make a loop around left index finger (from left to right). Hold the loop with left thumb and index finger. Insert needle through loop, get yarn from ball (i.e. place yarn 1 time over needle from you), pull yarn back through loop, 1 YO (now place yarn from the back and towards you) and pull YO through sts on needle, * insert needle through loop, 1 YO (place yarn from the back and towards you), pull YO through loop, 1 YO (from the back and towards you) and pull YO through outermost st on right needle (i.e. the last st made) *, repeat from *-* until there are 6 sts on needle. Then work as explained in pattern – AT THE SAME TIME pull yarn end so that loop is tighten tog and the hole disappears.
INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round/row work YO twisted to avoid holes.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.
STRIPES:
* 4 rounds/rows light pink, 4 rounds/rows off white *, repeat from *-*.
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HEAD:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles from snout and back.
Make a MAGIC CIRCLE with light beige - see explanation above = 6 sts on needle. Distribute sts on 3 double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 (work with fourth needle) and work in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: K all sts.
ROUND 2: * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 sts.
ROUND 3: K all sts (always K YOs twisted to avoid holes).
ROUND 4: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 sts.
ROUND 5: K all sts.
ROUND 6: * K 3, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sts.
ROUND 7: K all sts.
ROUND 8: * K 4, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 sts.
ROUND 9: K all sts.
ROUND 10: * K 5, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sts.
ROUND 11-12: K all sts = 36 sts.
Insert 1 marker after the first 3 sts at beg of round and 1 marker after another 6 sts. Then inc 1 st inside the 2 markers - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Repeat inc every other round 2 more times (= 3 inc in total in each side) = 42 sts.
ROUND 18-19: K all sts = 42 sts.
ROUND 20: * K 5, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sts.
ROUND 21: K all sts.
ROUND 22: * K 4, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 sts.
ROUND 23: K all sts.
Continue dec like this on every other round (i.e. on every round with dec work 1 st less before working 2 sts tog = 6 sts dec per round) until 12 sts remain on needle, cut the yarn and pull it through sts on needle (without tightening).
Embroider eyes, mouth and snout with black, fill the head with poly stuffing, tighten tog sts and fasten (= mid back of head).
EAR:
Worked in the round from bottom up.
Cast on 8 sts with light beige and distribute sts on 2 double pointed needles (work with third needle).
ROUND 1-2: K all sts.
ROUND 3: * K 1, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 12 sts on needle.
ROUND 4: K all sts (always K YOs twisted to avoid holes).
ROUND 5: * K 1, 1 YO, K 4, 1 YO, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 16 sts on needle.
ROUND 6: K all sts.
ROUND 7: * K 1, 1 YO, K 6, 1 YO, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 20 sts on needle.
Then work in stockinette st in the round until piece measures approx. 5½ cm / 2¼”. Then dec as follows:
ROUND 1: * Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 6, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 16 sts.
ROUND 2: K all sts.
ROUND 3: * Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 4, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 12 sts.
ROUND 4: K all sts.
Continue dec like this every other round until 4 sts remain on needle (i.e. on every round with dec work 2 sts less between dec in each side). On next round K2 tog around.
Cut the yarn and pull it through sts, tighten tog and fasten.
Fold each side at the bottom of ear towards the middle so that a pleat is formed in the mid of ear. Sew tog at the bottom with a couple of stitches and fasten ear on head. Work another ear the same way.
BODY:
Worked in the round, top down.
Cast on 16 sts with light beige and distribute sts on 4 double pointed needles (work with fifth needle).
ROUND 1-2: K all sts.
ROUND 3: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sts.
ROUND 4: K all sts (always K YOs twisted to avoid holes).
ROUND 5: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sts.
ROUND 6: K all sts.
ROUND 7: * K 3, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 sts.
Then work in stockinette st in the round until piece measures 5½ cm / 2¼”. Switch to pink and K 1 round and P 1 round. Then work 8 rounds in stockinette st.
Continue to dec as follows:
ROUND 1: * K 6, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 42 sts.
ROUND 21: K all sts.
ROUND 22: * K 5, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sts.
ROUND 23: K all sts.
Continue dec like this on every other round (i.e. on every round with dec work 1 st less before working 2 sts tog = 6 sts dec per round) until 12 sts remain on needle, cut the yarn and pull it through sts on needle (without tightening). Fill body with poly stuffing, tighten tog sts on yarn and fasten. Sew head to body (pink should be down (= pants)).
LEG:
Worked back and forth, bottom up.
Cast on 30 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with light beige. Work in stockinette st back and forth for 3 cm / 1’’. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see explanation above, K 10, K2 tog 4 times, K 10 and 1 edge st in garter st = 26 sts.
ROW 2 (= WS): 1 edge st in garter st, P 5, bind off the next 14 sts, P 5 and 1 edge st in garter st = 6 sts remain in each side.
ROW 3 (= RS): Work the first 6 sts on needle and then the next 6 sts on needle (the 14 bind off sts form a hole in the mid of piece).
Then work in stockinette st back and forth over the 12 sts with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until leg measures approx. 8 cm / 3’’. Switch to pink, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1 = 23 sts.
ROW 2 (= WS): P but K edge sts in each side and P YOs twisted to avoid holes.
ROW 3: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1 = 34 sts.
Then work in stockinette st back and forth with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until leg measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾’’, bind off.
Sew opening mid on top of foot with grafting/kitchener sts.
Sew foot tog mid under and continue up along mid back - sew in front loop of outermost st. Fill leg with some poly stuffing.
Baste a strand up and down through bind-off edge at the top of leg (on the pink). Tighten tog to make it baggy.
Work another leg the same way and fasten both legs on body.
LACE EDGE
Crochet a lace edge on hook size 3 mm / C with pink at the bottom around pants on each leg as follows (crochet in P sts): 1 sc in first st, * ch 4, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 sc in next P st on pants *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. Fasten off.
ARM:
Worked back and forth on double pointed needles, top down.
Cast on 10 sts with light beige and work in stockinette st back and forth with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until arm measures 9 cm / 3½’’.
Cut the yarn (make it long enough to use for sewing the arm tog), pull yarn through sts on needle (= at the bottom of arm), tighten tog and then sew arm tog in front loop of outermost st. Fill arm with poly stuffing and fasten at the top of body by neck (below the head).
Work another arm the same way and fasten in the opposite side.
JUMPER:
Piece is worked in the round on double pointed needles up to armhole, then work back and forth on needle.
BODY:
Cast on 60 sts with light pink. P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Then work in stockinette st and STRIPES - see explanation above.
When piece measures approx. 9 cm / 3½’’ – adjust so that last round in a stripe with light pink remains, work next round as follows: bind off 6 sts for armhole, work 24 sts, bind off the next 6 sts for armhole and work the last 24 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.
SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 20 sts with light pink. K 1 round and P 1 round. Then work in stockinette st and STRIPES in the round.
When 11 rounds with stripes have been worked (i.e. last round in a stripe with light pink remains), work next round as follows: bind off 6 sts for armhole and work the remaining 14 sts.
Cut the yarn, put piece aside and Make another sleeve.
YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same needle as body where armholes were bind off (without working them first) = 76 sts on needle. Begin round from RS mid back on body and continue stripes as follows (1st round = off white):
ROUND 1: 1 edge st in garter st, K 9, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 10 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 20 (= front), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 10 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 9 and 1 edge st in garter st = 68 sts.
Then work back and forth from mid back.
ROW 2 (= WS): P but work edge sts in garter st.
ROW 3 (= RS): 1 edge st in garter st, K 8, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 8 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 18 (= front), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 8 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 8 and 1 edge st in garter st = 60 sts.
ROW 4 (= WS): P but work edge sts in garter st.
ROW 5 (= RS): Switch to light pink and work 1 edge st in garter st, K 7, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 6 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 16 (= front), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 6 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 7 and 1 edge st in garter st = 52 sts.
ROW 6 (= WS): P but work edge sts in garter st.
ROW 7 (= RS): 1 edge st in garter st, K 6, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 4 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 14 (= front), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 4 (= sleeve), K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog, K 6 and 1 edge st in garter st = 44 sts.
ROW 8 (= WS): P but work edge sts in garter st.
Switch to off white and work next row as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 1, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with 1 edge st in garter st = 30 sts. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS before binding off with K from RS. Fasten off.
BOW:
Cast on 5 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with pink. Work in garter st back and forth for 8 cm / 3’’, bind off.
Sew short sides tog in outer loop of edge sts to form a ring.
Fasten off.
Find a new strand, wind it a couple of times around the middle of bow and fasten bow in the neck on jumper.
Put the jumper on the bunny and fasten the button through both layers at the top of neck at the back.
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We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
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Est-ce vraiment 10 mailles pour les bras, il me semble que c'est peu. Merci
22.03.2023 - 01:35DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme St-Jacques, il faut bien monter 10 mailles pour les bras et on tricote ensuite en jersey avec 1 m point mousse de chaque côté. Bon tricot!
22.03.2023 kl. 09:02Hei, Har spørsmål ang. hode. Lurer på om omgang starter i siden og bakover til bakhodet, eller i siden og fremover mot ansiktet? Ref. "Sett 1 merke etter de første 3 m på beg av omg og 1 merke etter ytterligere 6 m. Videre økes det 1 m på innsiden av de 2 merkene – LES ØKETIPS (= 2 m økt). Gjenta økningen på hver 2.omg, 2 ganger til (= totalt 3 økninger i hver side) = 42 m." er dette til ansiktet?
05.02.2023 - 18:04DROPS Design answered:
Hei Gry. Hodet strikkes rundt på fra snuten og bakover (mot bakhodet). Når du skal sette 2 merker i arbeidet og øke, er snuten/ansiktet allerede strikket, nå strikkes det rundt selve hodet. Etter 20. omgang starter fellingene til bakhodet. mvh DROPS Design
06.02.2023 kl. 11:54Er staan geen armen op van het konijn de mouw heeft ook geen hand anders zou ik denken dat dat de arm was voor op te vullen
26.02.2022 - 12:34DROPS Design answered:
Dag Nelly,
De armen van het konijn staan onder de paragraaf 'Voorpoot' :)
26.02.2022 kl. 16:23Ska börja på örat. Hur stickar man runt på 2 stickor? Får inte ihop det.
01.04.2019 - 22:05DROPS Design answered:
Hej. Du stickar på samma sätt som när du har fler stickor. och stickar runt. Du har i detta fall maskorna på två stickor och stickar med en tredje. Lycka till!
05.04.2019 kl. 10:26Wo kann ich das Foto des nachgemachten Hasen posten?
28.03.2019 - 09:51DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Tanja, gerne können Sie das Foto auf unserem Facebook posten, und auch in unserem DROPS Workshop :)
01.04.2019 kl. 09:36Stellt der Bereich zwischen den Markierungen am Kopf eine bestimmte Stelle dar?
07.03.2018 - 13:38DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Böhm, 2 Markierungen werden eingesetzt, und danach nach 1. und vor 2. Markierung zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
07.03.2018 kl. 15:53Stellt der Bereich zwischen den Markierungen am Kopf eine bestimmte Stelle dar???
03.03.2018 - 16:54Beim Übergang zu rosa am Bein soll man nach der ersten Reihe 23 Maschen auf der Nadel haben. Das geht jedoch nicht auf, da das Bein aus "zwei" Teilen besteht und 23 nicht durch 2 teilbar ist. Zudem stricke ich den Bär in Nadelstärke 4, da die Beine ansonsten viel zu dünn würden und keinesfalls die Stärke des Fotos erreichen würden.
08.02.2018 - 17:38DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Böhm, bei der 3. Reihe werden Sie (2 re, 1 Umschlag) stricken = 34 M am Ende der 3. Reihe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
09.02.2018 kl. 09:17Glem det spørsmålet, oppdaget feilen selv 😊
12.06.2017 - 15:07Hei, jeg driver for øyeblikket med benet til kaninen, men skjønner ikke helt hva jeg skal gjøre med foten? Har felt av de 14 maskene så de danner et hull eller løkke eller hva dere vil kalle det, men står ikke noe mer om hva man gjør med dette hullet? Syr jeg det sammen så blir det jo verdens minste fot? 🙈
12.06.2017 - 15:01DROPS Design answered:
Hei Cindy Marie, Benet strikkes nedenfra og opp så du burde ha begynt med foten of avslutte på toppen av benet. De 14 felte maskene er hullet i benet hvor du skal fylle benet med vatt. Så da fortsetter du oppover benet og syr sammen hullet etter du har fylt benet. Håper dette hjelper, Med vennlig hilsen, Deirdre
12.06.2017 kl. 16:37