Little Darcy by DROPS Design

Knitted baby jacket in garter st with stripes and rib edges in DROPS Karisma. Size 0 – 4 years

DROPS Baby 25-18
DROPS design: Pattern no u-063-by
Yarn group B
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Size: 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 44-48-52-56 (60-64) cm / 17 1/4"-19"-20½"-22" (23½"-25 1/4")
Full length: 24-28-30-33 (36-40) cm / 9½"-11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4"-15 3/4")
All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200 (200-250) g color no 01, off white
50-100-100-100 (100-100) g color no 71, light beige

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/ US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 42 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - for rib.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 5-5-5-6 (6-6) pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 2.10 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.10 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.10 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

STRIPES:
* 1 ridge off white, 1 ridge light beige, 1 ridge off white *, repeat from *-* (i.e. when repeating there will be 2 ridges in off white between every ridge with light beige).
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Beg on front piece, cast on new sts for sleeve and work up to the shoulder. Put piece aside and work the other front piece. Then place both front pieces tog and work down the back piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 34-38-38-42 (42-46) sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with off white.
P 1 row from WS. Then work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with 1 edge st in GARTER ST. Continue rib like this.
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 9-11-9-11 (9-10) sts evenly = 25-27-29-31 (33-36) sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and K 1 row from WS.
Then work in GARTER ST – see explanation above while AT THE SAME TIME working STRIPES – see explanation above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 14-17-18-20 (22-25) cm / 5½"-6 3/4"-7"-8" (8 3/4"-9 3/4"), cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of every row from RS as follows: Cast on 5 sts 3-5-0-0 (4-5) times in total, 4 sts 0-0-7-8 (5-7) times in total and then 7-4-5-7 (8-4) sts 1 time = 47-56-62-70 (81-93) sts.
After last inc continue in garter st and stripes until piece measures 20-24-26-28 (31-35) cm / 8"-9½"-10 1/4"-11" (12 1/4"-13 3/4"). Now slip the first 4-5-6-6 (7-8) sts at beg of row from RS on 1 stitch holder for neck (work sts before slipping them on holder to avoid cutting the yarn).
Then bind off at beg of every row from RS as follows: bind off 2 sts 2 times and then 1 st 2-2-2-2 (3-3) times = 37-45-50-58 (67-78) sts.
Continue to work until piece measures 24-28-30-33 (36-40) cm / 9½"-11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4"-15 3/4").
Insert 1 marker (= mid on top of shoulder) – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Continue in garter st and with stripes as before until 1 cm / ½'' has been worked from marker but on last row from WS cast on 2 new sts at the end of row towards the neck. Slip 39-47-52-60 (69-80) sts on 1 stitch holder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right but reversed, i.e. rib beg with 2 P after 1 edge st in the side and ends with 2 K before 1 edge st towards mid front.
When casting on new sts for sleeve at the end of every row from WS, dec for neck at beg of every row from WS and when casting on 2 new sts towards the neck, this is done at the end of last row from RS, then K 1 row from WS so that both front pieces end after 1 row K from WS.

BACK PIECE:
Work the 39-47-52-60 (69-80) sts from left front piece (1st row = K from RS and continue stripes as before), cast on 14-16-18-18 (22-24) new sts on needle (= neckline in the back of neck) and work the 39-47-52-60 (69-80) sts from right front piece on to same circular needle = 92-110-122-138 (160-184) sts.
Continue in garter st and with stripes.
When piece measures 8-8-8-9 (9-9) cm / 3"-3"-3"-3½" (3½"-3½") from marker on shoulder (make sure that no of rows and stripes is the same on front piece according to marker on shoulder), now bind off at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 7-4-5-7 (8-4) sts 1 time, 4 sts 0-0-7-8 (5-7) times in total and 5 sts 3-5-0-0 (4-5) times in total = 48-52-56-60 (64-70) sts remain on back piece.
Work until piece measures 20-24-26-29 (32-36) cm / 8"-9½"-10 1/4"-11½" (12½"-14 1/4") from marker on shoulder – adjust according to front piece and make sure to finish stripes the way they started on front piece.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and off white and K 1 row from RS AT THE SAME TIME inc 20-20-20-20 (20-22) sts evenly = 68-72-76-80 (84-92) sts. Work next row as follows from WS: 1 edge st in garter st, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain and finish with P 2 and 1 edge st in garter st (from RS there are 2 K sts in each side inside edge st). Continue rib like this.
When rib measures 4 cm / 1½'' (piece measures approx. 24-28-30-33 (36-40) cm / 9½"-11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4"-15 3/4") from marker on shoulder), K 1 row (from RS) over all sts before loosely binding off.

RIGHT BAND:
Pick up from RS approx. 42 to 74 sts along right front piece inside 1 edge st in garter st on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with off white. K 1 row from WS.
K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 53-61-65-73 (81-89) sts.
Work next row as follows from WS: 1 edge st in garter st, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain and finish with P 2 and 2 edge sts in garter st. Continue rib like this.
When band measures 1 cm / ½'', dec on next row from RS for 4-4-4-5 (5-5) buttonholes evenly. 1 buttonhole = P 2 tog and make 1 YO (dec in a P-section seen from RS will look more pretty).
Upper buttonhole should be approx. 4 cm / 1½'' from neck edge, and bottom buttonhole approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' from bottom edge.
Continue to work until band measures 2½-2½-2½-3 (3-3) cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1" (1"-1") and loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.

LEFT BAND:
Work as right band but do not dec for buttonholes on left band.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 56 to 78 sts (incl sts on stitch holders) around the neck (also over bands) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with off white. K 1 row from WS. K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 68-72-76-80 (88-92) sts.
Work next row as follows from WS: 1 edge st in garter st, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain and finish with P 2 and 1 edge sts in garter st. Continue rib like this.
When neck edge measures 1 cm / ½'', dec for 1 buttonhole over the other holes on right band.
Continue to work until neck edge measures 2½-2½-2½-3 (3-3) cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1" (1"-1") and loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side and underarm seams in one inside 1 edge st.
Sew on buttons.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 34 to 38 sts at the bottom around the sleeve on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with off white. P 1 round. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 40-40-40-44 (48-48) sts. Then work rib = K 2/P 2.
When sleeve edge measures 4 cm / 1½'', loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.
Repeat at the bottom around the other sleeve.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (36)

country flag Randy wrote:

Working the right band. Ribbing . Did row to increase to 61 stitches from RS. Please confirm WS on the return. Is it K1 (P2,K2) until last 4 stitches which are P2 K2. Also, can you write out exactly what I need to do when I flip to RS? Can you use K instead of word garter stitch as I have above. Thank you.

15.08.2023 - 16:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Randy, start ribbing from WS as follows: K1, repeat *P2, K2* until 4 sts remain, finish with P2, and K2, from RS work: K2, then repeat *K2, P2* until 3 sts remain, finish with K3 (= K2 for rib + K1 for edge stitch in garter stitch). Happy knitting!

16.08.2023 - 08:56

country flag Randy Komitor wrote:

Me again! Little Darcy Drops jacket size 1-3months working on BACK and up to ribbing. Have 72 stitches, then says from WS ..1 edge in garter then P2 K2. So does this mean K1 for first stitch in row and then P2K2 until 3 remaining and then its P2 and k1 for last stitch. Please confirm! Thanks!!

08.08.2023 - 17:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dar Mrs Komitor, correct, the edge stitches (the first + the last stitch of the row) will be knitted both from right side and from wrong side. Happy knitting!

09.08.2023 - 08:05

country flag Randy Komitor wrote:

Love this pattern and also the people at Drops who answer my questions when I need help!

31.07.2023 - 19:57

country flag Randy Komitor wrote:

On back piece Darcy jacket size 1-3. Binding off Beginning off 4 each row in each side. I assume you are binding off at beginning of row only - not begining AND end. Binding of 4 one time beginning only would be 110 minus 8=102. Then bind off 5.. 5times Rs,WS,RS,WS,RS would give me 25 bound off. 102-25 is 77. I am supposed to wind up with 52. So am I supposed to Bind off 5 stitches beginning of row 5 times on RS AND 5 times on WS which would give me 52 ? Thanks! Baby due Aug 13!

31.07.2023 - 16:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Randy, you cast off 4 stitches once at the beginning of a row from the RS and a row from the WS. So in total you cast off 8 stitches. Next, you cast off 5 stitches 5 times at the beginning of rows from both the RS and WS. Following the previous logic, it's 5 rows from the RS and 5 rows from the WS (so 10 rows in total), so you have cast off 50 stitches and not 25. Happy knitting!

31.07.2023 - 18:52

country flag Randy Komitor wrote:

Perhaps you can give me specifics? I need it spelled out. Working neck ofl eft front piece. Are 5 stitches for neck that are placed on holder are worked from RS or WS? I know you have to knit them first before placing on holder. If I put on holder from RS do I COMPLETE row , turn around to WS and thena bind off stitches on every WS. Or, if I place the 5 stitches on hold from the WS . Do I immediately start binding off on the WS row before completing the row. Thanks!

19.07.2023 - 01:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Randy, for the left side of the neck, work the whole row from the right side and then slip the first stitches at the beginning of the row from the WS. Complete the row from the WS, work 1 row from the RS and then start to cast off at the beginning of every row from the WS. Happy knitting!

20.07.2023 - 12:29

country flag Randy Komitor wrote:

Darcy baby garter stitch jacket. Thanks for response but still not enough for me as new knitter. Can you write exactly what I’m supposed to do starting with P1 from WS. Don’t even understand if I’m still supposed to do that. Or is now RS. Need directions laid out for left as you have done for right. Love pattern. Grandson due in august and as can see I’m slow!

25.06.2023 - 17:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Komitor, work the same way, ie purl 1 row from WS just as you done for first front piece, work the rib starting from the side (from RS) with P2 after the edge stitch so that you end with K2 before the edge stitch towards mid front. Happy knitting!

26.06.2023 - 08:59

country flag Randy K wrote:

Little Darcy knitted baby jacket in garter stitch. 1) For Left Front Piece says work in reverse. Help! On Right Front Piece after casting on it says P1 row from WS. for Left Front Piece do you knit 1row on the RS? Purl 1 row on RS? Do that row exactly same as Right Front piece, P1 row on the WS , because reverse starts with rib? 2) For the ribbing. On Right front piece first row rib I K1 at beginning (edge?), repeated k2p2, k1 at end(edge?) so now I P1( repeat p2k2) and P1 at end of row?

24.06.2023 - 21:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Randy, to work in reverse means that the sleeve will be on the opposite side of the left front piece, compared to the right front piece. For example, in the right front piece you cast on for the sleeve at the end of the right side rows, while on the left front piece you will cast on stitches at the end of wrong side rows. This is also applied to the neck shaping. So you don't need to reverse the actual rows in principle. For the rib, you will always knit the edge stitches but you can work p2k2 instead so that the rib is symmetrical in the middle of the front piece. Happy knitting!

25.06.2023 - 16:13

country flag Anne-Beate Dokken wrote:

Hvordan er det best og sy denne sammen som er strikket i to farger. Takk for fine nettsider.

27.10.2022 - 10:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne-Beate, se videoerne nederst i opskriften, vi har en som hedder "Hvordan sy sammen i rille"

27.10.2022 - 13:25

country flag Kerryn wrote:

Hello, I’m confused about where to place the marker “mid shoulder” and if I then knit from the marker to the end of the sleeve or the other direction to the neck line for 1 cm. This is for the right hand front piece. I’m fairly new to knitting and would appreciate your help as I don’t want to mess it up. Thank you so much, Kerryn

11.01.2022 - 21:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kerryn, insert this marker in the middle of the row (maybe somewhat more towards shoulder than towards sleeve edge), this marker will be the top of shoulder and will be used to measure back piece matching front piece. Hope it will help, happy knitting!

12.01.2022 - 07:25

country flag Rose-Marie Ohlson wrote:

Little Darcy, randig stickad babykofta Fram och bakstycken på koftan är lika breda innan man stickar till 2,5 cm framkanter. Det blir inte bra när koftan ska knäppas.

26.08.2021 - 17:08

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