DROPS / 73 / 15

That Girl by DROPS Design

DROPS Top in Muskat.

Sizes: S/M - M/L - L/XL
Finished measurements: 92-102-114 cm [36.25" - 40-1/8" - 44-7/8"]
On account of the pattern the garment will be smaller before blocking.

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
350-400-450 gr nr 09, light brown.

DROPS 4 mm [US 6] straight and double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
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DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.80 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm in stockinette st.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Knitting tips-1: All decs are made on right side rows. Dec 1 st inside 3 edge sts, knit as follows from edge: 1 st in garter st and 2 sts in stockinette st.
After 3 edge sts: P 2 tog
Before 3 edge sts: P 2 tog, twisting sts

Knitting tips-2: read this entire section before knitting: You will be increasing sts for the shoulder at the same time as decreasing for the armhole. All incs and decs occur on the same rows (right side rows).
Dec 1 st as explained in knitting tips-1 by P 2 tog. At the same time inc 1 st with yo - make the first inc inside of 1 edge st, then inc inside 1 st more each time so that there will be a line of holes along «raglan» armhole. Note: Knit the edge st and then the first 2 increased sts (3 sts at side edge) in garter st throughout – these sts will fold under at the edge – knit the remaining increased sts in stockinette st.
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Front: Cast on 106-118-130 sts. Establish pattern on first row as follows: P 1, Pattern 2 over 36-42-48 sts, Pattern 1 (= 34 sts), Pattern 2 over 34-40-46 sts, P 1. Continue in pattern as established until the piece measures 35-36-37 cm. Bind off 4 sts at each side = 98-110-122 sts remain, then dec 1 st at each side for armhole inside 3 edge sts every other row 5-9-13 times - see knitting tips-1 = 88-92-96 sts.
Now dec and inc 1 st every other row 24-22-19 times according to knitting tips-2. At the same time when the piece measures approx. 48-50-52 cm - adjust to end after one of the arrows on the chart - put the center 20 sts on a st holder for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times.
After all neck shaping and incs/decs for sleeve are complete, 25-27-29 sts remain on each shoulder. Continue in stockinette st with the 3 outermost sts of shoulder in garter st. When the piece measures 56-58-60 cm put a marker at the side = top of shoulder – and bind off 1-5-10 sts at neck edge = 24-22-19 sts remain. Continue on shoulder sts for back. Cast on 1 new st at the neck edge = 25-23-20 sts. Then dec 1 st at the neck edge every other row until all sts are decreased.

Back: Cast on 94-106-118 sts. Establish pattern on first row as follows (right side row): P 1, K 2, Pattern 2 over 90-102-114 sts, P 1. Continue with pattern as established until the piece measures 35-36-37 cm. Dec 1 st for armhole at each side every other row 29-31-32 times - see knitting tips-1.
At the same time when the piece measures 54-56-58 cm bind off the center 30 sts for the neck. Then bind off 2 sts at each neck edge on the next row = 1-5-10 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off, the piece measures approx. 56-58-60 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew shoulder piece from front to back using 1 edge st as seam allowance - see that the sleeves start on the same place on back as on front. Sew side seams using 1 edge st as seam allowance. Note: The P 4 at each side of front is the side –the seams are offset to the back.
Collar: Pick up approx. 92-100 sts (divisible by 4, incl. sts on st holder) around the neck on double-pointed needles and knit rib (K 2, P 2) - see that sts follow those on front. Bind off in pattern when the collar measures 18 cm.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit/stockinette st (as seen from the right side)
= purl/reverse stockinette st (as seen from the right side)
= work 5 sts in 1 st as follows: K 1, P 1, K 1, P 1, K 1
= 5 sts in stockinette st
= K 5 tog – insert right needle through back loops of sts on left needle beginning with the outermost st on needle
= Put 4 sts on cable needle in back of work, knit the next 4 sts: K 1, P 2, K 1, then knit the sts on cable needle: K 1, P 2, K 1.
= Put 4 sts on cable needle in front of work, knit the next 4 sts: K 1, P 2, K 1, then knit the sts on cable needle: K 1, P 2, K 1.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 73-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

AS 08.03.2020 - 18:53:

Est-ce possible pour vous de me donner les explications avec les abbréviations à faire de chaque mailles au début du rang et à la fin de rang ? Diminuer 1 m comme indiqué ci dessus en tricotant 2 m ens à l'envers. EN MÊME TEMPS, augmenter avec 1 jeté (faire la première augmentation à 1 m lis du bord, puis augmenter 1 m de plus à chaque fois qu'il y a un rang ajouré le long du raglan de l'emmanchure.

DROPS Design 09.03.2020 kl. 12:06:

Bonjour AS, vous diminuez à 3 m des bords de chaque côté et vous augmentez à 1 m des bord en même temps: donc vous aurez pour la 1ère série: 1 m, 1 augm, 2 m, 1 diminution en début de rang et en fin de rang: 1 dim, 2 m, 1 augm, 1 m. Vous aurez ensuite 2 m, 1 augm, 2 m, 1 dim... 1 dim, 2 m, 1 augm, 2 m et ainsi de suite, vous allez augmenter et diminuer de part et d'autre des 2 mailles soulignées ci-dessus. ce sont des mailles de raglan et les nouvelles mailles sont celles des manches. Bon tricot!

Anna 02.03.2020 - 17:07:

Je suis rendue BLOQUÉE de l'incompréhension de ce qui signifie ci-dessous: Diminuer ensuite tous les 2 rangs 5-9-13 fois 1 m de chaque côté pour les emmanchures à 3 m des bords -voir diminutions ci dessus = 88-92-96 m.

DROPS Design 03.03.2020 kl. 07:41:

Bonjour Anna. Cela signifie que tu dois revenir plus tot dans le modele et voir la section (ci-dessus) suivant: Diminutions : toutes les diminutions se font sur l'endroit. Diminuer 1 m à 3 m des bords tricotées ainsi : 1 m lis au point mousse, 2 m jersey... Bon travail!

Paola 27.02.2020 - 10:55:

Salve Vorrei realizzare questo modello con Karisma , ma a maniche lunghe. Per le maniche posso raccordarmi al raglan? E nel caso come posso calcolare il numero di maglie da cui partire prima di iniziare il raglan delle maniche? Grazie

DROPS Design 28.02.2020 kl. 09:21:

Buongiorno Paola, per un aiuto così personalizzato può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Lianne 13.09.2019 - 16:06:

Hallo, ik heb een vraagje over het volgende stukje: Brei door in patroon tot een hoogte van 35-36-37 cm. Kant 4 st af aan weerskanten = 98-110-122 st resteren, en kant vervolgens 5-9-13 x 1 st aan weerskanten naast de 3 kantst in elke 2e nld - zie breitips-1 = 88-92-96 st. in het Nederlandse patroon staat kant eerst 4 aan beide kanten af en daarna nog 5x1st, in het engelse patroon staat, decrease (dus minderen ipv afkanten), Ik neem aan dat het inderdaad minderen is?

DROPS Design 13.09.2019 kl. 20:05:

Dag Lianne,

Ja hoor, daar wordt hetzelfde mee bedoeld in dit geval. Decrease betekent minderen en soms wordt dat woord ook gebruikt voor afkanten

Hekmat 14.12.2018 - 14:13:

What about tip1,would you please explain it .and if my measurements are below XL too much and above L by 4cm to each part (fornt and back) alone what should I do? Thanks for your answers

DROPS Design 14.12.2018 kl. 14:55:

Dear Mrs Hekmat, when you only decrease work as follow: 1 edge st, K2, P2 tog (= 1 st dec), continue as before and finish row with P2 tog (= 1 st dec), K2, 1 edge st. We are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to each individual measurements, for any further assistance please contact the store where you bought the y arn - even per mail or telephone- they will assisst you adjusting the armholes if required. Happy knitting!

Hekmat 13.12.2018 - 23:49:

I do not understand the kitting tip 1and2 specially tip 2 ,would you please make video tutorial for them for this pattern.

DROPS Design 14.12.2018 kl. 08:38:

Dear Mrs Hekmat, When you have to inc and dec at the same time work as follows: 1 edge st, YO (= increase 1 st), K2, P2 tog, and finish row with P2 tog, K2, YO (= inc 1 st), 1 edge st. Continue increasing like this with a YO before the (K2, P2 tog (dec for raglan)) at the beg of row and with a YO after (P2 tog, K2) at the end of row. Work the increase sts in stocking st. Happy knitting!

Anna 15.11.2018 - 20:07:

Que veut dire ? M2, M1...

DROPS Design 15.11.2018 kl. 20:34:

Bonjour Anna, M1, M2 ect. sont les diagrammes des points fantaisies. Ils sont en bas de page. Comment lire les diagrammes des points fantaisie dans les explications vous troverez ICI. Bon travail!

Maria 04.04.2016 - 19:33:

Hello! Are the diagramm descriptions for the right site? For example at the 5th sign ( 5sts in stockinette st), in the wrong side should I purl 5? Thank you !

DROPS Design 05.04.2016 kl. 09:12:

Dear Maria, the diagrams are showing all rows from RS, starting from the bottom corner on the right side towards the left from RS and from the left towards the right from WS. so that sts with 4th symbol will be worked K from RS and P from WS (= 5 sts in stocking st). Happy knitting!

Michela Ricchiuto 14.09.2015 - 12:05:

Da mir das Anstricken des Ärmels für das Rückenteil ein bisschen kompliziert dünkt, würde ich gerne fragen, ob ich das Rückenteil nicht analog zum Vorderteil (ausser Halsauschnitt) stricken kann? Sprich, den Ärmel wie beim Vorderteil zunehmen. Danke und Gruss, M. Ricchiuto

DROPS Design 15.09.2015 kl. 21:32:

Das Rückenteil hat ja eine etwas andere Maschenzahl, es ist etwas schmaler als das Vorderteil, und es werden keine M unter dem Arm abgekettet. Sie sollten es nach Anleitung stricken, ansonsten sitzt es nicht richtig. An welcher Stelle haben Sie denn genau ein Problem? Vielleicht lässt sich das ganz einfach lösen.

Marina 23.07.2014 - 01:05:

Hallo! Wie wird die Schulter am Rücken gestrickt? Wie bekomme ich das gleiche Raglanmuster wie auf der Vorderseite? Danke

DROPS Design 28.07.2014 kl. 10:01:

Liebe Marina, leider lässt sich das an dieser Stelle nicht so ganz einfach erklären, um auch am Rückenteil eine Loch-R zu bekommen, da das Top dafür etwas umgearbeitet werden muss. Ausführlicher beraten lassen können Sie sich in Ihrem Dropswollgeschäft.

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