DROPS / 150 / 15

September Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and Nordic pattern in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • September Sweater / DROPS 150-15 - Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and Nordic pattern in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no li-026
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-100-112-124-134 cm / 33”-36¼”-39½”-44”-48¾”-52¾”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’

Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
400-450-450-500-550-600 g color no 9015, gray
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color no 0100, off white
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color no 5820, ruby red
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color no 4088, heather

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24’’ or 32’’) SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24’’ or 32’’) SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - for rib.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Work entire pattern in stockinette st.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to body):
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to round yoke):
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 296 sts) and divide by no of dec to be done (e.g. 24) = 12.3. I.e. in this example K approx. every 11th and 12th st tog.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by picking up a st from previous row/round, K this st.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 212-228-248-280-308-336 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with gray. K 1 round. Then work rib (= K 2/P 2) for 4 cm / 1½’’. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 44-48-50-58-62-66 sts evenly = 168-180-198-222-246-270 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 84-90-99-111-123-135 sts (= in the sides). Then continue pattern in the round according to diagram A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE. When piece measures 8 cm / 3’’, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= 4 sts dec - NOTE: Work sts that do not fit the pattern in gray when dec). Repeat dec when piece measures 16 cm / 6¼”’’ = 160-172-190-214-238-262 sts. When piece measures 22 cm / 8¾”, inc 1 st on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc - NOTE: Work sts that do not fit the pattern in gray when inc). Repeat inc every 3-3-3-3½-3½-4 cm / 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1¼”-1¼”-1½”, 3-4-4-4-4-4 more times (= 4-5-5-5-5-5 inc in total) = 176-192-210-234-258-282 sts. When piece measures approx. 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14¼’’-14½’’-15’’-14 1/4’’-15¾’’-16’’– make sure that next round is a round with dots, bind off the middle 12 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. Bind off 6 sts on each side of both markers) = 76-84-93-105-117-129 sts remain on front and back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 64-64-68-68-76-76 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with ruby red. K 1 round. Then work rib (= K 2/P 2) for 3 cm / 1 1/8’’. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and K 1 round with ruby red while AT THE SAME TIME dec 16-16-16-16-20-20 sts evenly = 48-48-52-52-56-56 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2. After A.2 continue in the round in stockinette st with gray. When piece measures 8-8-10-10-12-10 cm / 3”-3”-4”-4”-4¾”-4”, inc 1 st on each side of marker – see INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 3-2½-2½-2-2-2 cm / 1 1/8”-7/8”-7/8”-3/4”-3/4”-3/4” 12-14-13-15-14-16 more times (= 13-15-14-16-15-17 inc total) = 74-78-80-84-86-90 sts. When piece measures 45-45-45-44-44-44 cm / 17¾”-17¾”-17¾”-17¼”-17¼”-17¼” (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulder), bind off 12 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. Bind off 6 sts on each side of marker) = 62-66-68-72-74-78 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off = 276-300-322-354-382-414 sts. K 1 round with gray while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-6-6-6-6 sts evenly - SEE DECREASE TIP 2 = 272-296-316-348-376-408 sts. Work 0-1-2-0-1-2 cm / 0-½”-3/4”-0-½”-3/4” in stockinette st with gray. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.3 (choose diagram for your size).
AT THE SAME TIME on row marked with arrow A in diagram dec 16-24-28-28-40-40 sts evenly = 256-272-288-320-336-368 sts. Continue pattern.
On row marked with arrow B in diagram dec 22-23-24-32-33-35 sts evenly = 234-249-264-288-303-333 sts. Continue pattern.
On row marked with arrow C in diagram dec 30-33-36-36-39-45 sts evenly = 204-216-228-252-264-288 sts. Continue pattern.
On row marked with arrow D in diagram dec 28-32-36-44-40-48 sts evenly = 176-184-192-208-224-240 sts. Continue pattern.
On row marked with arrow E in diagram dec 36-40-44-52-64-64 sts evenly = 140-144-148-156-160-176 sts. Continue pattern.
On row marked with arrow F in diagram (= last round) dec 36-36-36-40-40-48 sts evenly = 104-108-112-116-120-128 sts. Cut the yarn.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and ruby red, beg mid back and work rib in the round (= K 2/P 2) but make sure that either K 2 or P 2 are mid front. Insert 1 marker mid front between the 2 middle sts.
AT THE SAME TIME after 2 rounds rib work an elevation at the back of neck with short rows as follows:
Beg mid back and work rib as before until 19-19-21-21-23-23 sts remain before marker, turn and work rib back until 19-19-21-21-23-23 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn and work rib until 27-27-29-29-31-31 sts remain before marker, turn and work rib back until 27-27-29-29-31-31 sts remain on the other side before marker. Turn and work rib until 35-35-37-37-39-39 sts remain on needle, turn and work rib back until 35-35-37-37-39-39 sts remain on the other side. Turn piece and work rib until beg of round beg (= mid back). Then continue rib in the round over all sts as before until rib measures approx. 3 cm / 1 1/8’’ mid front.
Loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.
Yoke measures approx. 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8’’-8¼’’-8¾’’-9’’-9½’’-9¾’’ and entire jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog.


This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 17.08.2015
New chart A.3 (row 16.-18 size S-M-L and row 20.-22. size XL-XXL-XXXL).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = gray
symbols = off white
symbols = ruby red
symbols = heather
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 150-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Margrethe Rudd 15.06.2019 - 12:18:

Det undre mig at der skal tages ind efter ribborten. Det plejer at være modsat, så ribkanten kan sidde tæt på håndled/krop? Glæder mig til at komme i gang. Venligst Margrethe “til håndled/ krop?

user icon DROPS Design 17.06.2019 kl. 08:27:

Hei Margrethe. Vrangbord trekker seg mer sammen enn glattstrikk, og for at det ikke skal være en markant viddeforskjell på vrangborden og resten av plagget felles det masker etter vrangborden. God fornøyelse

country flag Ulla Holmström 18.05.2019 - 19:57:

Mönster 150-15. Jag har bystmått 113. Vilken storlek skall jag välja? Tycker inte det framgår.

user icon DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 11:04:

Hei Ulla. Det er en målskisse helt nederst på siden, med alle plaggets mål i alle størrelser. Om du måler 113 cm rundt, vil det si du måler ca 57 cm tvers over. Da ville jeg valgt størrelse XXL som måler 62 cm tvers over (124 cm rundt). God fornøyelse

country flag Lene Hein 24.03.2018 - 20:38:

Kan jeg strikke denne model i Karisma i stedet?

user icon DROPS Design 04.04.2018 kl. 13:12:

Hej Lene, ja det kan du, DROPS Karisma tilhører samme garngruppe B som DROPS Lima. God fornøjelse!

country flag Maria 23.04.2017 - 23:18:

Er det feil i oppgitt garnmengde? Jeg måttekjøpe inn to nøster ekstra av bunnfargen, enda strikkefastheten stemmer (str S). Og hvor er omgangsskiftet på bærestykket?

user icon DROPS Design 24.04.2017 kl. 12:03:

Hei Maria. Dette har vært en populær genser og vi har ikke fått noen tilbakemeldig om at det har vært for lite garn, men vi skal se nærmere på det. Når du har satt bolen og ermene på sammen pinne vil omgangsskiftet komme mellom det ene ermet og bolen. God fornøylse.

country flag Ina Austrud 01.11.2016 - 07:25:

Jeg undrer meg over antall masker som skal legges opp på armen. XL = 68m Må være feil. jeg la opp 48 masker og likevel er det ikke stramt rundt håndleddet.

Heckmann 31.08.2016 - 16:14:

Bonjour , Je tricote pull en suivant vos explications pour le nombre de mailles , mais je souhaite tricoter l'empiècement rond au point mousse ; ma question : puis-je suivre le même diagramme ? car le point mousse "avance " différemment que le point jersey . merci

user icon DROPS Design 31.08.2016 kl. 16:19:

Bonjour Mme Heckmann, il va vous falloir faire quelques ajustements car le nbe de rangs point mousse n'est pas le même que celui en jersey pour la même hauteur. Vous aurez probablement besoin de plus de fils également, car le point mousse est plus "gourmand" que le jersey. Réalisez un échantillon au point mousse pour recalculer à quelle fréquence diminuer pour l'empiècement. Bon tricot!

country flag Olga 10.02.2016 - 18:37:

Tengo la talla S, pero la manga me queda demasiado ancha, como podría hacerla más estrecha para que luego me coincida bien con el canesu?Muchas gracias

user icon DROPS Design 23.02.2016 kl. 18:27:

Hola Olga. Este modelo tiene la manga ya estrecha debido al dibujo realizado en el canesú. Si quieres hacerla aún más estrecha tendrías que recalcular la parte del dibujo del canesú.

country flag Marga Van Dijk 09.12.2014 - 16:55:

Er staat dat je moet minderen na 8 cm moet je daar de boord ook bij rekenen of is dat vanaf de boord. Groetjes van Marga.

user icon DROPS Design 09.12.2014 kl. 16:58:

Hoi Marga. Je meet in totaal (dus inclusief de boord).

country flag Ditte 10.11.2014 - 22:27:

Vedr. mønster på bærestykke indtagning A. Man har først strikket en firkant af rubinrød ( fuldfarvet firkant), så strikker man 2 omgange med lyng og næste omgang strikkes i grå, hvor man så også skal tage ind. Når man så har taget ind og skal strikke med naturhvid ovenover (stjernerne), så kommer de vel til at blive forskubbet( i forhold til den rubinrøde forkant nedenunder) lidt for hver gang, der er taget en maske ind. Er det meningen, eller er der noget jeg har misforstået?

user icon DROPS Design 25.11.2014 kl. 11:24:

Hej Ditte, Diagrammet vil stadigvæk gå op efter indtagningerne, og stjernern kan du også stadigvæk få til at passe over firkanterne i rubinrød, men man behøver ikke få det til at passe (det gør det faktisk ikke på billedet) God fornøjelse!

country flag Romy 05.06.2014 - 22:12:

Im Muster A3 sind jeweils nach den Abnahmerunden Spalten weggelassen. Wie strickt man hier weiter?

user icon DROPS Design 08.06.2014 kl. 11:08:

Liebe Romy, die weggelassenen Spalten können Sie nicht mehr stricken, denn die Maschen existieren ja nicht mehr. Sie nehmen ja mehrfach M ab, daher besteht ein Mustersatz aus weniger M. Daher ergeben sich kürzere Mustersätze in der Breite. Sie stricken also einfach immer die Kästchen, die gezeichnet sind.

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