DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 2.80 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!



Knitted DROPS top with lace pattern and raglan in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 146-8
DROPS design: Pattern no r-632
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-86-94-106-118-128 cm /
Full length: 72-74-79-81-86-88 cm /

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-500-550 g color no 07, light yellow

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16" and 32") SIZE 4 mm /US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 2.80 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. See beg for your size in A.5.

Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up. Cast on 224-240-264-296-328-360 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above, then work A.1 over all sts.
Work A.1 2 times vertically, then work A.2.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 168-180-198-222-246-270 sts on needle.
Work A.3, over all sts a total of 9-9-10-10-11-11 times vertically.
Piece measures approx. 40-40-43-43-46-46 cm / 15¾"-15¾"-17"-17"-18"-18".
Insert 2 markers in the piece; 1 at the beg of round and 1 after 84-90-99-111-123-135 sts (= in the sides).
Work 2 ridges over all sts, then work in stockinette st. When piece measures 53-55-58-60-64-66 cm / 21"-21½"-22¾"-23½"-25¼"-26", work 2 ridges over 4 sts in each side (= 2 sts on each side of every marker), work the other sts as before.
Then bind off the middle 4 sts in each side for armholes = 80-86-95-107-119-131 sts on front/back piece.
Now piece measures approx. 54-56-59-61-65-67 cm / 21¼"-22"-23¼"-24"-25½"-26½".

Work next round as follows: Work in stockinette st over front piece, cast on 81-81-89-89-97-97 new sts over armhole, work in stockinette st over back piece, cast on 81-81-89-89-97-97 new sts over the other armhole = 322-334-368-392-432-456 sts.
Work 3 rounds over all sts as follows: Work in garter st over the 81-81-89-89-97-97 new sts for sleeves each side, work the other sts in stockinette st.
Insert 1 marker in each side of the new sts for sleeve in each side (= 4 markers). READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!

Then work as follows: Stockinette st over the first 80-86-95-107-119-131 sts (= front piece), A.4 A (= 8 sts), A.4 B (= 8 sts) 8-8-9-9-10-10 times in total, A.4 C (= 9 sts), work in stockinette st over the next 80-86-95-107-119-131 sts (= back piece), A.4 A (= 8 sts), A.4 B (= 8 sts) 8-8-9-9-10-10 times in total, finish with A.4 C (= 8 sts).
Continue this pattern while AT THE SAME TIME dec for raglan on front/back piece, work A.4 on sleeve without dec.

Dec for raglan every other round (4 dec per round) - as follows:
Dec as follows at beg of front/back piece – beg straight after marker: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, work 1 st, psso.
Dec as follows at the end of front/back piece: Beg 3 sts before marker: K 2 tog, K 1.

When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically (= dec 6 times on front and back piece), work A.5 over A.4 – continue in stockinette st and with dec every other round on front/back piece. Switch to a shorter circular needle when needed.
Continue until A.5 has been worked vertically (20-20-22-22-24-24 dec in total on front and back piece) = 118-130-140-164-180-204 sts remain on needle.
Work 2 ridges while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round dec 0-4-10-30-42-58 sts evenly = 118-126-130-134-138-146 sts.
Bind off.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = this st has been bound off
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Fabienne, Switzerland


Monika, Czech Republic

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Comments / Questions (39)

country flag Helena Karlström wrote:

Hjälp! Frågan gäller ärmhålet. När jag bara maskat av 4 maskor på varje sida och sen ska lägga upp 81 nya maskor på samma ställe blir det så trångt att det inte går att sticka. Hur ska man göra? Mvh Helena

19.09.2022 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helena, det är samma princip som här, när du har alla maskorna på stickan, det är lite tight i början: Raglan Skillnaden är att du lägger upp nya maskor på samma sticka (här stickas dom in på samma sticka) :)

20.09.2022 - 15:13

country flag April wrote:

Thanks but it took me to a page not found. I tried several times.

01.07.2022 - 04:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear April, find the video here - after you will have cast on the new stitches as shown in the video, continue working in the round (do not turn as shown in the video). You can use another circular needle same size/length if you need. Happy knitting!

01.07.2022 - 08:08

country flag April wrote:

I’m having a little trouble trying to figure out the best way to cast on the 97 st in the 4 cast off space. What’s the best way to do that? By the way, I love your patterns.

30.06.2022 - 19:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear April, you can see this video on how to cast on these stitches: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=94&lang=en. Happy knitting!

30.06.2022 - 21:12

country flag Dorthe Laulund wrote:

Str M siger 400 Gran muskat. Min strikkefasthed passer og jeg havde endda 429 gram muskat. Og det var stadig ikke nok. Der burde nok stå 500 gram garn ved str M😳🧐. Øv at pille et helt projekt op da indfarvning ikke kan skaffes længere

18.07.2021 - 22:36

country flag Brenda wrote:

400 gram voor maat M is absoluut te weinig. Had ipv 8 bollen al 10 bollen gekocht, om ruim voldoende te hebben. Ben nu aan het begin van het tricotgedeelte aangekomen en al in mijn 7e bol bezig. Met 10 bollen ga ik het niet redden dus, terwijl ik het patroon exact heb gevolgd en het werk ook goed is van afmeting. Klopt het dat het materiaal krap is weergegeven? Het is mijn eerste Drops-patroon; kan ik erop rekenen dat materiaal-hoeveelheden kloppen?

16.05.2021 - 15:09

country flag Fabienne wrote:

Bonjour, me voilà au 10ème tour de A1 tout à l'endroit fini. Dois -je reculer de 3 mailles pour commencer le 11ème tour ou seulement de 2 ? Ou alors je commence avec le jeté et je finirai le tour en accord avec les dernières mailles sur la ligne 11. Sinon je fini le tour 10 en commençant la ligne 11, 3 mailles avant la fin (ce qui revient au même que ma première solution. Je comprends que ce n'est pas évident de se faire comprendre ;-) merci d'avance pour votre réponse.

27.05.2020 - 17:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Fabienne, terminez le 10ème tour avant les 2 dernières mailles, puis faites 1 jeté et tricotez ces 2 dernières mailles avec la 1ère m du tour = le jeté et la maille obtenue après la diminution sont maintenant les 2 premières m du tour, et le 2ème jeté est la 3ème m du tour, tricotez 5 m end et répétez A.1 (= 1 jeté, 1 diminution, 1 jeté, 5 m end) tout le tour. Le début des tours est maintenant avant le 1er A.1 du tour (décalé de 2 m par rapport aux tours précédents). Bon tricot!

28.05.2020 - 08:09

country flag MARGHERITA wrote:


17.01.2020 - 18:38

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Margherita. Sul penultimo giro dei diagrammi A1, A2 e A3, le due maglie spostate sono le ultime due maglie del giro precedente. Quindi, al giro precedente, fa 1 maglia gettata prima delle ultime due maglie , passa 1 maglia, lavora 2 m insieme e accavalla la m passata, 1 m gettata. Verifichi il corretto incolonnamento del motivo. Buon lavoro!

18.01.2020 - 06:47

country flag Krysia wrote:

Robie schemat A1 jeden raz w końcu wyszło ale jak chce robić znowu A1 to już nie wychodzi próbowałam wiele razy i nic jak nie widze to nie umiem z tymi przejściami mam problemy szkoda

18.09.2019 - 13:03

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Krysiu! Jak raz wyszło to i kolejny wyjdzie, nie poddawaj się :) Koniecznie zobacz instrukcje video do tego wzoru, szczególnie ten jak wykonywać ażur wg schematu A.1. Powodzenia!

18.09.2019 - 16:22

country flag Krystyna S wrote:

Dziękuje za filmik ale mam też pytanie czy w schematach A1 A2 A3 mam robić tak jak na filmiku? za odpowiedź z góry dziękuje krysia

19.07.2019 - 12:26

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Krysiu, tak, zwracaj uwagę na różnice występujące w schematach A.2 i A.3, ale zasada jest taka sama. Pozdrawiamy i życzymy powodzenia! Koniecznie zamieść gotowe ubranie na naszej grupie na facebooku DROPS Workshop

21.07.2019 - 21:55

country flag Krystyna Sliwinska wrote:

Mam problem w szóstym rzędzie nie w piątym przepraszam bardzo prosze o pomoc z góry dziękuje bo nie wychodzi ten kwadracik krysia

21.06.2019 - 05:26

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Krysiu, w 5-tym rzędzie na środku zamykasz 2 oczka jak na filmie TUTAJ i wykonujesz 2 narzuty, po jednym z każdej strony . W 6-tym rzędzie wszystkie oczka przerabiasz na prawo. Powodzenia!

21.06.2019 - 21:09