DROPS / 148 / 12

Emma by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dress in garter st with short sleeves and lace pattern in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no cl-017
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 76-84-92-102-114-126 cm /
30''-33''-36 1/4''-40''-45''-49½''
Full length: 80-82-84-86-88-90 cm /
31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''-35½''

Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-750-800 g color no 25, light lilac

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4 mm / US 6 (80 cm / 32'') - or size needed get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4'', and 21 sts x 42 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. 17 sts pattern according to A.4 = width 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/ US 4 - for lace pattern in waist.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in the same st.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to dec in waist):
Beg 1 st before st with marker and dec as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 sts dec).

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to dec at the sleeves):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker and before edge st: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker and after edge st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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DRESS:
Loosely cast on 324-360-396-432-468-504 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Cotton Light. Work pattern according to diagram A.1. When A.1 has been worked, 252-280-308-336-364-392 sts remain on needle. Then work pattern according to A.2 (= 9-10-11-12-13-14 repetitions with A.2 on round).
When A.2 has been worked (piece measures approx. 10 cm / 4''), insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: Work 42-42-42-56-56-70 sts, insert 1 marker in next st, work 41-55-69-55-69-55 sts, insert 1 marker in next st, work 83-83-83-111-111-139 sts, insert 1 marker in next st, work 41-55-69-55-69-55 sts, insert 1 marker in next st and work the last 41-41-41-55-55-69 sts on round. Then work in stockinette st in the round (move the markers upwards when working).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 11 cm / 4½'', dec 2 sts at every marker – READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec every 4th round, 11-12-13-14-14-15 more times (= 12-13-14-15-15-16 dec in total) = 156-176-196-216-244-264 sts. When piece measures 30 cm / 11 3/4'' in all sizes, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-2-4-0-4-0 sts evenly = 156-174-192-216-240-264 sts.
Remove the markers, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work pattern according to diagram A.3.
When piece measures approx. 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm/19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20"-20½"-21"-21 1/4" (stop after 1 round with holes), K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-10-12-14-14-14 sts evenly = 148-164-180-202-226-250 sts. P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round.
K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 28-36-36-42-42-42 sts evenly = 120-128-144-160-184-208 sts.
Then continue pattern according to diagram A.4. When A.4 has been worked, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 28-36-36-42-42-44 sts evenly = 148-164-180-202-226-252 sts.
P 1 round. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 74-82-90-101-113-126 sts (= sides) – NOW MEASURES PIECE FROM HERE! Switch back to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work in GARTER ST in the round on circular needle - see explanation above.
When piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'', inc 1 st on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc).
Repeat inc when piece measures 6 and 9 cm / 2½" and 3½" = 160-176-192-214-238-264 sts.
When piece measures 10 cm / 4'' - make sure that next round is a P round, bind off 8-10-12-16-20-24 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. Bind off 4-5-6-8-10-12 sts on each side of both markers) = 72-78-84-91-99-108 sts remain on front and back piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 72-78-84-91-99-108 sts. Beg with K from RS and bind off at beg of row in each side as follows: bind off 2 sts 1-1-2-2-2-2 times in each side = 68-74-76-83-91-100 sts, cut the yarn.
Now work in sleeve caps on back piece as follows (1st row = RS):
Cast on 30-30-32-34-36-38 sts on needle, insert 1 marker, work the 68-74-76-83-91-100 sts from back piece, insert 1 marker and cast on 30-30-32-34-36-38 sts on needle = 128-134-140-151-163-176 sts.
Continue in garter st back and forth on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. AT THE SAME TIME on
next row from RS beg dec as follows - READ DECREASE TIP 2:

Dec 1 st at beg and end of row inside 1 edge st: Dec every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) a total of 12-12-13-13-14-14 times.

AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side in towards sleeves (i.e. before first marker and after 2nd marker seen from RS): Dec every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS): 1 st 12-12-13-13-14-14 times in total.

AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side in towards back piece (i.e. after first marker and before 2nd marker seen from RS): Dec every other row (i.e. every row from RS): 1 st 0-2-2-4-7-9 times in total.

NECK DEC:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm / 30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8'', bind off the middle 34-34-36-37-37-38 sts from RS for neck and finish each shoulder separately.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Continue dec towards sleeve cap as before. After last dec there are 23-24-24-27-28-32 sts on needle (i.e. 17-18-18-19-20-22 shoulder sts + 6-6-6-8-8-10 sts remain at the top on sleeve cap). K 1 row from WS and slip the outermost 6-6-6-8-8-10 sts on sleeve cap on 1 stitch holder.
Continue in garter st back and forth over the 17-18-18-19-20-22 shoulder sts AT THE SAME TIME as sts from sleeve cap is worked tog with sts on needle as follows: K 1 row from RS until 1 st remains on left needle, slip last st over to right needle without working it, slip first and second st from stitch holder back on left needle, pass the slipped st from right needle back on left needle and K these 3 sts tog, turn, tighten yarn and K 1 row from WS,
* K 1 row from RS until 1 st remains on left needle, slip last st over to right needle without working it, slip next st from stitch holder back on left needle, pass the slipped st from right needle back on left needle and K these 2 sts tog, turn, tighten yarn and K 1 row from WS *, repeat these 2 rows from *-* until all sts on stitch holder have been worked tog with last st on row, loosely bind off.
Yoke measures approx. 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm / 9¾''-10¼''-10 5/8''-11''-11 3/8''-11¾'' from marker.
Dress measures approx. 80-82-84-86-88-90 cm / 31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''-35½''.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work as right shoulder but after last dec, slip the outermost 6-6-6-8-8-10 sts on sleeve cap on 1 stitch holder. Beg from WS and K 1 row until 1 st remains on left needle, slip last st over on right needle without working it, slip first and second st from stitch holder back on left needle, pass the slipped st from right needle back on left needle and K these 3 sts tog, turn, tighten yarn and K 1 row from RS, then repeat the 2 rows from *-* as on right shoulder (but with start from WS) until all sts on stitch holder have been worked tog with last st on row, loosely bind off.

FRONT PIECE:
= 72-78-84-91-99-108 sts. Work as back piece and cast on for sleeve caps in each side as on back piece = 128-134-140-151-163-176 sts.
Then dec on front piece and sleeve caps as on back piece but when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'', bind off the middle 34-34-36-37-37-38 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Continue dec and then work as right and left shoulder on back piece.
Yoke measures approx. 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm / 9¾''-10¼''-10 5/8''-11''-11 3/8''-11¾'' from marker.
Dress measures approx. 80-82-84-86-88-90 cm / 31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''-35½''.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and down along sleeve caps - sew in front loop of outermost st to avoid chunky seams.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= P
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 148-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (82)

Tracey 26.11.2019 - 23:38:

Hi I casted on 324 and then it says to work a1 chart. Once the a1 chart as been worked I should av left with 252 sts on needle. So do I just do 1 row of chart a1 or all the 3. Rows ??

DROPS Design 27.11.2019 kl. 07:39:

Hi Tracey, You do all four rows of A.1, which should leave you with the right number of stitches. Happy knitting!

Tanja Henriksen 13.08.2019 - 14:09:

Hej Er det muligt, at strikke glatstrik, i stedet for retstrik? Hvis, skal der så ændres noget? I så fald hvad?

DROPS Design 16.08.2019 kl. 10:40:

Hej Tanja, du strikker færre pinde glatstrik i højden på 10 cm i forhold til retstrik. Men hvis du sørger for at følge målene i opskriften, så skal det kunne lade sig gøre. God fornøjelse!

Nici Van Eeden 19.05.2017 - 23:25:

Hi, I would like to find out how the number of stitches for diagram A4 works. I am making the smallest size and can't get my diagram to work out with the 120 st count. The last pattern on the diagram is only half a diagram (8sts) and then I can't do the decrease or the yarn over at the end. Please advice!

DROPS Design 22.05.2017 kl. 09:34:

Dear Mrs Van Eeden, A.4 is worked over 16 sts, you will repeat the 16 sts in A.4 a total of 7 times, then work the first 8 sts once again: 7x 16 + 8 = 120 sts. Happy knitting!

Christin Alraek 23.01.2015 - 13:28:

Hur stikkes siste 2 runder av mønster A1?

DROPS Design 23.01.2015 kl. 15:52:

Hei Christin. 7 r, ta 1 m løs av p som om den skulle strikkes rett, 2 rett sammen, løft den løse m over, 13 r, ta 1 m løs av p som om den skulle strikkes rett, 2 rett sammen, løft den løse m over, 6 r (1 gentagelse af A.1 i bredden). Raekke 4: 28 vr (1 gentagelse af A.1 i bredden). Du har altsaa minsket fra 36 til 28 m per gentagelse af A.1.

Synnøve Aandalen 15.10.2014 - 11:12:

I mønstret a1 er det i andre omgang åpent rom etter 16 masker vrangt. Hva skal jeg gjøre her...?

DROPS Design 17.10.2014 kl. 15:23:

Det masker du har minsket på omgangen under. Derfor er det ingen masker der.

Liv Christiansen 21.07.2014 - 10:56:

149-12 I omgangen etter felling til 44 masker står det at neste omgang skal strikkes tilbake på samme måte. Gjør man det blir det 38 masker igjen på pinnen. Legger man sammen maskene på neste pinne er det 32 maser rille, vrangbord og mønster A1. Hvordan skal dette gjøres?

DROPS Design 21.07.2014 kl. 14:05:

Hej Liv. Jeg forstår ikke helt hvad du mener? A.1 strikkes først i mønstret og hvor feller du til 44 m? Hvis du kan beskrive lidt bedre hvor du har problemer, så skal jeg prøve at hjælpe dig :-) tak.

Megan 10.05.2014 - 07:16:

Can you please advise what are the measurements for each size? I would like to make this for my daughter. She has a 97 cm chest, and 80 cm waist. Thank you.

DROPS Design 10.05.2014 kl. 09:48:

Dear Megan, you will find at the very bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measures in cm for each size. They are taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment she likes the shape to find the matching size. Happy knitting!

Siv 06.12.2013 - 20:38:

Där ska man inte sticka någonting!

Carolina 05.12.2013 - 13:08:

Hur ska man sticka i mönster A.1 där det i mönstret inte finns någon ruta?

DROPS Design 10.12.2013 kl. 09:15:

Du minskade m på varvet under, därför har du ingen m/ingen ruta varvet över!

Simona Bisighini 05.06.2013 - 11:45:

Approfitto della vostra cortesia per chiedere un'ulteriore precisazione sulla lettura del diagramma. Si legge sempre da destra a sinistra sia per i ferri di andata dispari che per quelli di ritorno pari? Grazie nuovamente.

DROPS Design 05.06.2013 kl. 23:53:

Buonasera. Il diagramma si legge da destra verso sinistra sui ferri di andata (sul diritto del lavoro) e da sinistra verso destra sui ferri di ritorno (rovescio del lavoro). Buon lavoro!

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