DROPS Extra / 0-865

Twinkle Toes by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS Christmas socks in ”Karisma”.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-667
Yarn group B
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Size: (child- child- child- child- child) woman-woman-woman
US: (5½/6½ -7/8-9/10½-11/13-13½) 5/6½-7½/9-9½/10½
EU: (22/23-24/25-26/28-29/31-32/34) 35/37-38/40-41/43

Foot length: (13-15-17-18-20) 22-24-27 cm /
(5"-6"-6¾"-7"-8") 8¾"-9½"-10½"
Sock height: (15-16-17-17-18) 19-21-21 cm /
(6"-6¼"-6¾"-6¾"-7") 7½"-8¼"-8¼"

Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio

SOCK 1:
50-50-50-50-100-100-100-100 g color no 44, light gray
50 g for all sizes in color no 01, off white
50 g for all sizes in color no 48, wine red

SOCK 2:
50-50-50-50-50-100-100-100 g color no 48, wine red
50-50-50-50-50-100-100-100 g color no 01, off white
50 g for all sizes in color no 44, light gray

SOCK 3:
50-50-50-50-100-100-100-100 g color no 48, wine red
50 g for all sizes in color no 44, light gray
50 g for all sizes in color no 01, off white

SOCK 4:
50-50-50-50-100-100-100-100 g color no 44, light gray
50 g for all sizes in color no 48, wine red
50 g for all sizes in color no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 - or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A-1 to A-4. Work entire pattern in stockinette st.

DECREASE TIP: Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

HEEL DECREASE:
Row 1 (= RS): Work until (6-6-6-7-7) 8-9-9 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work until (6-6-6-7-7) 8-9-9 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): Work until (5-5-5-6-6) 7-8-8 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work until (5-5-5-6-6) 7-8-8 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 st less before every dec until (8-10-10-10-10) 10-10-12 sts remain on needle.
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SOCK 1 (gray with dots):
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on (40-44-44-48-48) 52-56-60 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with wine red.
K 1 round, continue in rib = P 2/K 2.
Work rib for (3-3-3-3-3) 4-4-4 cm / (1") 1½", then switch to light gray and K 1 round while dec 4 sts evenly = (36-40-40-44-44) 48-52-56 sts.
Then work diagram A-1.
When piece measures (11-11-12-12-13) 14-15-15 cm / (4½"-4½"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5") 5½"-5½"-6", keep the first (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on needle for heel, and slip the remaining (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on a stitch holder (= mid on top of foot).
Work in stockinette st back and forth on heel sts with wine red for (4-4½-4½-5-5) 5-5½-6 cm / (1½"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-2"-2") 2"-2 1/4"-2½". Insert a marker.
Then work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above!
After heel decrease, pick up (9-9-10-10-10) 10-11-11 sts on each side of heel with light gray and slip the (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts from the stitch holder back on needle = (44-48-50-52-52) 54-58-62 sts.
Continue to work in stockinette st in the round and diagram A-1 - AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side as follows:
K tog the first 2 sts after the (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on upper foot and K twisted tog the last 2 sts before the (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on upper foot (i.e. work in back loop of sts instead of front).
Repeat dec every other round 3 more times = (36-40-42-44-44) 46-50-54 sts.
Continue until piece measures (10-11-13-14-16) 18-20-22 cm / (4"-4½"-5"-5½"-6 1/4") 7''-8''-8¾'' from marker on heel (= approx. (3-4-4-4-4) 4-4-5 cm / (1"-1½"-1½"-1½"-1½") 1½''-1½''-2'' remain).
Now insert a marker in each side so that there are (18-20-21-22-22) 23-25-27 sts both on top of foot and under foot.
Continue in stockinette st with wine red - AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers for toe - READ DECREASE TIP: Repeat dec every other round (2-3-3-2-2) 3-3-4 more times and then every round a total of (2-2-2-4-4) 5-6-6 times = (16-16-18-16-16) 10-10-10 sts remain on needle.
On next round K2 tog around.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

SOCK 2 (wine red and off white stripes):
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on (40-44-44-48-48) 52-56-60 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light gray.
K 1 round, continue in rib = P 2/K 2.
Work rib for (3-3-3-3-3) 4-4-4 cm / (1") 1½", then K 1 round while dec 4 sts evenly = (36-40-40-44-44) 48-52-56 sts.
Continue with diagram A-2.
When piece measures (11-11-12-12-13) 14-15-15 cm / (4½"-4½"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5") 5½"-5½"-6" (stop after 3 rounds with wine red), keep the first (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on needle for heel, and slip the remaining (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on a stitch holder (= mid on top of foot).
Work in stockinette st back and forth over heel sts with light gray for (4-4½-4½-5-5) 5-5½-6 cm / (1½"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-2"-2") 2"-2 1/4"-2½". Insert a marker.
Then work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above! After heel decrease, knit up (9-9-10-10-10) 10-11-11 sts with off white on each side of heel and slip the (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts from the stitch holder back on needle = (44-48-50-52-52) 54-58-62 sts.
Continue to work in stockinette st in the round and diagram A-2 - AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side as follows:
K tog the first 2 sts after the (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on upper foot and K twisted tog the last 2 sts before the (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on upper foot (i.e. work in back loop of sts instead of front).
Repeat dec every other round 3 more times = (36-40-42-44-44) 46-50-54 sts.
Continue until piece measures (10-11-13-14-16) 18-20-22 cm / (4"-4½"-5"-5½"-6 1/4") 7''-8''-8¾'' from marker on heel (= approx. (3-4-4-4-4) 4-4-5 cm / (1"-1½"-1½"-1½"-1½") 1½''-1½''-2'' remain). Now insert a marker in each side so that there are (18-20-21-22-22) 23-25-27 sts both on top of foot and under foot.
Continue in stockinette st with light gray - AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers for toe - READ DECREASE TIP:
Repeat dec every other round (2-3-3-2-2) 3-3-4 more times and then every round a total of (2-2-2-4-4) 5-6-6 times = (16-16-18-16-16) 10-10-10 sts remain on needle.
On next round K2 tog around.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

SOCK 3 (wine red with pattern on the leg):
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on (40-44-44-48-48) 52-56-60 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with off white. K 1 round, continue in rib = P 2/K 2.
Work rib for (3-3-3-3-3) 4-4-4 cm / (1") 1½", then K 1 round while dec 4 sts evenly = (36-40-40-44-44) 48-52-56 sts.
Continue with diagram A-3.
When A-3 has been worked, finish the sock in wine red.
When piece measures (11-11-12-12-13) 14-15-15 cm / (4½"-4½"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5") 5½"-5½"-6", keep the first (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on needle for heel, and slip the remaining (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on a stitch holder (= mid on top of foot).
Work in stockinette st back and forth on heel sts for (4-4½-4½-5-5) 5-5½-6 cm / (1½"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-2"-2") 2"-2 1/4"-2½".
Insert a marker.
Then work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above!
After heel decrease, pick up (9-9-10-10-10) 10-11-11 sts on each side of heel and slip the (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts from the stitch holder back on needle = (44-48-50-52-52) 54-58-62 sts.
Continue to work in stockinette st in the round while AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side as follows:
K tog the first 2 sts after the (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on upper foot and K twisted tog the last 2 sts before the (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on upper foot (i.e. work in back loop of sts instead of front).
Repeat dec every other round 3 more times = (36-40-42-44-44) 46-50-54 sts.
Continue until piece measures (10-11-13-14-16) 18-20-22 cm / (4"-4½"-5"-5½"-6 1/4") 7''-8''-8¾'' from marker on heel (= approx. (3-4-4-4-4) 4-4-5 cm / (1"-1½"-1½"-1½"-1½") 1½''-1½''-2'' remain). Now insert a marker in each side so that there are (18-20-21-22-22) 23-25-27 sts both on top of foot and under foot.
Continue in stockinette st - AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers for toe - READ DECREASE TIP:
Repeat dec every other round (2-3-3-2-2) 3-3-4 more times and then every round a total of (2-2-2-4-4) 5-6-6 times = (16-16-18-16-16) 10-10-10 sts remain on needle.
On next round K2 tog around.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.


SOCK 4 (gray with pattern on the leg):
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on (40-44-44-48-48) 52-56-60 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with wine red. K 1 round, continue in rib = P 2/K 2. Work rib for (3-3-3-3-3) 4-4-4 cm / (1") 1½", then K 1 round while dec (4-2-2-6-6) 4-2-0 sts evenly = (36-42-42-42-42) 48-54-60 sts. Continue with diagram A-4.
When diagram A-4 has been worked, continue with light gray, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to (36-40-40-44-44) 48-52-56. When piece measures (11-11-12-12-13) 14-15-15 cm / (4½"-4½"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5") 5½"-5½"-6", keep the first (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on needle for heel, and slip the remaining (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on a stitch holder (= mid on top of foot).
Work in stockinette st back and forth on heel sts with wine red for (4-4½-4½-5-5) 5-5½-6 cm / (1½"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-2"-2") 2"-2 1/4"-2½". Insert a marker.
Then work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above!
After heel decrease, pick up (9-9-10-10-10) 10-11-11 sts on each side of heel with light gray and slip the (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts from the stitch holder back on needle = (44-48-50-52-52) 54-58-62 sts.
Continue to work in stockinette st in the round with light gray - AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side as follows:
K tog the first 2 sts after the (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on upper foot and K twisted tog the last 2 sts before the (18-20-20-22-22) 24-26-28 sts on upper foot (i.e. work in back loop of sts instead of front).
Repeat dec every other round 3 more times = (36-40-42-44-44) 46-50-54 sts.
Continue until piece measures (10-11-13-14-16) 18-20-22 cm / (4"-4½"-5"-5½"-6 1/4") 7''-8''-8¾'' from marker on heel (= approx. (3-4-4-4-4) 4-4-5 cm / (1"-1½"-1½"-1½"-1½") 1½''-1½''-2'' remain). Now insert a marker in each side so that there are (18-20-21-22-22) 23-25-27 sts both on top of foot and under foot.
Continue in stockinette st - AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers for toe - READ DECREASE TIP:
Repeat dec every other round (2-3-3-2-2) 3-3-4 more times and then every round a total of (2-2-2-4-4) 5-6-6 times = (16-16-18-16-16) 10-10-10 sts remain on needle.
On next round K2 tog around.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= light gray
= off white
= wine red

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-865) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Hannah 06.10.2019 - 12:14:

Hej! Jag får inte måtten att stämma efter minskningarna som görs vartannat varv i totalt 4 varv efter att man plockat upp 11+11 maskor på sidan av hällappen. Det står att man då ska ha 4 cm kvar att sticka för att det ska mäta 14 cm från stickmarkören. Dock så mäter min stickning bara 3 cm från stickmarkören när jag gjort minskningarna. Troligtvis har jag placerat markören fel? Finns det någon annan hållpunkt jag kan mäta ifrån? Tack på förhand!

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 14:35:

Hei Hannah. Litt vanskelig å gi et godt svar, da det ikke skrives hvilken størrelse eller hvilken av de 4 sokkene/mønstrene du strikker. Men om du prøver sokken på, passer den, evnt kan du strikke uten fellinger til sokken måler 4 cm og deretter fortsette etter oppskriften? Mvh DROPS design

Turid 21.08.2019 - 04:45:

Hvordan få mønsteret jevnt i "skjøten"? Har lært tipset hvordan strikke striper uten hakk ved å hente maska under, men gjelder dette også hvis stripa kun har 1 omg? Og skal man bruke samme prinippet på mønsteret?

DROPS Design 09.09.2019 kl. 10:42:

Hei Turid. Det vil ikke få samme pene effekten når stripen kun har 1 omgang, vedr mønster bør man følge diagrammet. Henter man masken under kan mønstret få feil farge og mønstret blir ikke 100%. God Fornøyelse!

Anna Vohs 16.08.2019 - 22:51:

Hvis jeg vælger at lave en hæl som den fra opskriften på Baby Booties skal jeg så stadig strikke de 5 1/2 cm før hæl indtagning? (Str 38/40)

DROPS Design 10.09.2019 kl. 15:27:

Hej Anna, du er nødt til at følge målene for hælen i opskriften som du strikker efter, ellers kan den let blive for lille. God fornøjelse!

Fabienne 15.01.2019 - 17:19:

Relever 9m chaque côté du talon (18) puis les 18m en attente = (36) et non 44 comme vœu l'indiquez. Merci pour tous ses beaux ouvrages !

DROPS Design 16.01.2019 kl. 09:17:

Bonjour Fabienne, dans la 1ère taille, il reste 8 m pour le talon + 9 m x 2 relevées de chaque côté + les 18 m en attente pour le dessus du pied soit 8 + 18+ 18 = on a bien 44 m pour le pied. Bon tricot!

Gitte F. Rasmussen 15.03.2018 - 08:49:

Jeg strikker sok nr. 2. Jeg vil gerne beholde maskerne til hæl fra pind 1 og 4 i stedet for pind 1 og 2, så samlingerne fra striberne kommer bagpå sokken. Hvordan klarer jeg det?

DROPS Design 16.03.2018 kl. 15:27:

Hej Gitte, jeg er ikke sikker på jeg forstår dit spørgsmål... du kan beholde de masker du vil på pinden til hæl, kan du evt strikke en halv omgang til inden du sætter resten på en tråd?

Birgit Poppel 17.12.2017 - 21:51:

DROPS EXTRA 0-865 Sockenanleitung Diagramm Sorry - habe "falsch herum gedacht". Diagramm ist okay. Frohes Fest ☃☄

Birgit Poppel 17.12.2017 - 20:18:

DROPS Extra 0 865 Twinkle toes Socken Nr 3 Das Diagramm A3 steht auf dem Kopf. Die Socke beginnt nach dem Rippchenmuster mit weinrot - das Diagramm zeigt alle Muster aber in verkehrter Reihenfolge!

Barbara Jarman 15.11.2017 - 10:22:

I am knitting Sock 3 but don't understand the comment after the heal decrease and the decreasing until 54 sts (on the largest size) it then says continue until piece measures 22cm from marker on heal then the bit I don't understand - approx 4.5cm remain ??????????? what does this refer to?

DROPS Design 15.11.2017 kl. 10:25:

Dear Mrs Jarman, these 4.5 cm refers to the last cm before finished measurements, ie in this size sock will measure 22 cm (measurement from marker on heel) + 4.5 cm (= decreases for toe) = 26.5 cm total length for sock. Happy knitting!

Alma 18.10.2017 - 20:02:

Har beställt garn för att kunna sticka massa julstrumpor, men får inte alls till det med sticktätheten och storlekarna. På garnet jag har köpt, Karisma, står det att man ska använda strlk 4 för att få 21m x 28v. Ni skriver att man ska ha stickor 3,5 för att få 23m x 32v. Inte förrän med stickor 2,5 får jag till 23m på 10 cm. På bilderna ser garnet mycket tjockare ut. Har ni ändrat på garnet sen beskrivningen kom till? Känns som att jag måste skriva om hela beskrivningen.

DROPS Design 24.10.2017 kl. 14:28:

Hej, garnet är samma som förut. Vi har alla lite olika handlag då vi stickar och stickfastheten kan ibland variera ganska mycket. Ifall du tycker att resultatet med stickor 2,5 inte blir bra, kan du pröva någon av våra modeller utan mönsterstickning, där det inte är riktigt lika noga med stickfastheten. Du kan även pröva att sticka en storlek mindre än den du hade tänkt.

Susanne 19.03.2017 - 21:28:

I plan to make the A3 sock, however, the design repeat is 8 stitches and the number of stitches on the needles (cast on number minus the decreases to get the design area) is not divisible by 8. How does the design match up if I'm working on 56 stitches with an 8 stitch repeat?

DROPS Design 20.03.2017 kl. 10:07:

Dear Suzanne, working A.3 on 56 sts, you will repeat A.3 a total of 7 times in width: 8 sts x 7 = 56 sts. Happy knitting!

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